• About
  • Login to comment
    • Facebook
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Perfumers
  • Perfume Houses
  • Shop for perfume
  • Resources

Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Cuba ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 6 April 2016 28 Comments

vintage Cuba travel posters

Queue the Omara Portuondo and read on!

Over the last decade, Santa Maria Novella seems to have less and less of a presence in the U.S. Do you, perfume fanatics, anxiously await a new Santa Maria Novella fragrance? I was not even aware of the latest Santa Maria Novella release: Cinquanta. Out of smell...out of mind?

After wearing a slew of dull new releases, I realized I've forgotten to review some old favorites, like Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Cuba. I first bought Acqua di Cuba in Florence at the old Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella near the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella. Want to discover the LUSH of the 17th century? Visit that aromatic shop! When confronted with the huge array of perfumes in front of me (and the overwhelming distractions, olfactory and architectural, in that gorgeous environment) I asked the sales associate to let me smell the top-five sellers. In Italian fashion, she ignored four and went directly for an easy-to-reach bottle of Acqua di Cuba. I sniffed. I fell in love. I purchased.

Over the years I've owned several bottles of Acqua di Cuba. In the mid-2000s, when the reformulation craze began, I was afraid to sniff Acqua di Cuba again; I filed it under Great Memories and left it at that.  A few weeks ago, I received samples of current Acqua di Cuba; it made it through IFRA alive.

Acqua di Cuba goes on smelling damp and liquor-y with rich, fumy citrus peel and juice aromas; the perfume has a spicy-herbal bite (clove?), but its ingredients are ghostly to me...I can't pin them down. I smell barbershop elixirs (aftershaves and colognes and powders) mixing with dry, blond tobacco leaf, tropical woods and incense. There is a bright spot in Acqua di Cuba's trajectory — a note or accord that smells like a jungle flower (fleshy, sticky-sweet, temperamental) — Will I give you my perfume at midday or at midnight? Acqua di Cuba is "clean" in the Old Style, when perfumes and toiletries had oomph; it has no contemporary/beige"fresh" attitude. Acqua di Cuba makes me 'think pink'...and canary yellow, turquoise and vermilion. Acqua di Cuba is not afraid of attracting attention (and you shouldn't be either, if you wear it).

Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Cuba

When I wear Acqua di Cuba, I think of a swarthy and stylish man in Havana, circa 1950, who just slipped out of a chrome and leather barber chair after a trim and a shave (Don't touch the pencil-thin moustache!) 

Acqua di Cuba smells wonderful throughout the day; it has great tenacity and good sillage. A long, hot summer is the perfect time to indulge in Acqua di Cuba. Listen to one of hundreds of great Cuban musicians — Esther Borja, Celia Cruz, Roberto Faz, Beny Moré, Toña la Negra, Albita Rodriguez, Olga Guillot — sip a Cuba Libre...or three, then, when appropriately uninhibited — mambo!

Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Cuba is $125 for 100 ml; for buying information, see the listing for Santa Maria Novella under Perfume Houses.  

Note: top images of vintage Cuba travel posters via the Science Museum of Long Island.

Possibly of interest

Santa Maria Novella L’Iris ~ new fragrance
Santa Maria Novella Firenze 1221 Rosa Gardenia ~ new fragrance
Santa Maria Novella Rosa Novella ~ new fragrance

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: santa maria novella

Advertisement


28 Comments

Leave a comment, or read more about commenting at Now Smell This. Here's our privacy policy, and a handy emoticon chart.

  1. solanace says:
    6 April 2016 at 3:09 pm

    I want to go mambo too!
    (And the perfume sounds really nice.)

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      6 April 2016 at 4:15 pm

      Solanace…yes…love that mambo clip!

      Log in to Reply
      • solanace says:
        7 April 2016 at 4:46 am

        I’ll google the clip. Was being literal. ????

        Log in to Reply
  2. Merlin says:
    6 April 2016 at 4:49 pm

    I find SMN’s Tobacco Toscana to be an airier and less sweet version of Chergui, while Acqua di Cuba (which I admit to only having tried once) reminded me quite a bit of Fumerie Turque. I find the first two friendlier and more easy going, but perhaps that is because they are less masculine than the other pair?

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      6 April 2016 at 5:41 pm

      Merlin, I agree the Lutens are more masculine…need to try the Tobacco Toscano again.

      Log in to Reply
      • Merlin says:
        6 April 2016 at 6:07 pm

        Actually I meant that I find Fumerie Turque and Acqua di Cuba more masculine that Tobacco Toscano and Chergui. (But this may just be a retrospective guess as to why I prefer Chergui and TT :)

        Log in to Reply
    • solanace says:
      7 April 2016 at 4:47 am

      Tobacco Toscano sounds wonderful.

      Log in to Reply
  3. LizzieB says:
    6 April 2016 at 5:36 pm

    This is so funny! I was walking up Lafayette St in NYC last Friday and spotted the SMN store out of the corner of my eye. Beeline.

    This is the one I sprayed on myself. I liked it a lot, but I wish I hadn’t been so tentative. I needed a heavier hand.

    It’s a nice store for anyone wanting to stop by. SA was on the phone the whole time, speaking in Italian. Not sure if she said anything to me or the two other people there. Which was fine with me…I just wandered along and sampled and sniffed. Will go back when I have more time…

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      6 April 2016 at 5:42 pm

      Lizzie…I LOVE to be ignored in perfume shops…I get so much sniffed that way.

      Log in to Reply
      • LizzieB says:
        6 April 2016 at 5:55 pm

        I know… Same here usually. I was kind of concerned she might want to help me me since I was the only one in there for a few minutes.

        Log in to Reply
    • hajusuuri says:
      6 April 2016 at 6:49 pm

      I wandered there too with Daisy a hear or so ago. If it is anywhere near Osswald, I may stop in before the meet-up, assuming we’re meeting at Osswald.

      Log in to Reply
      • hajusuuri says:
        6 April 2016 at 6:50 pm

        Stupid fat fingers – year and not hear

        Log in to Reply
      • thegoddessrena says:
        6 April 2016 at 8:20 pm

        It’s around the corner from MIN

        Log in to Reply
        • hajusuuri says:
          6 April 2016 at 8:38 pm

          Ok never mind, no Min for me anytime soon. Thx TGR! See you next week!

          Log in to Reply
  4. nozknoz says:
    6 April 2016 at 6:56 pm

    There is a lovely SNM Boutique in Chevy Chase, Maryland (near the Friendship Heights Metro Station and Mazza Gallerie in DC). When I was there a tall, handsome SA offered to assist but also left me alone when I wanted to just browse. I’ll try Acqua di Cuba the next time I go.

    I bought Melograno and enjoy it fairly often. It’s “clean” in the sense of smelling slightly like Ivory soap and a bit like sandalwood. It smells very good without being terribly conspicuous.

    Log in to Reply
    • Merlin says:
      6 April 2016 at 7:11 pm

      I don’t wear Melograno nearly enough. I think the top notes are a bit harsh, and so when I sniff it I don’t feel motivated to wear it. But, it is SO gorgeous after an hour or two…

      Log in to Reply
    • nozknoz says:
      6 April 2016 at 7:25 pm

      I have to be careful not to over-apply.

      Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      6 April 2016 at 8:53 pm

      Noz…Melograno is a good one.

      Log in to Reply
    • Laura says:
      7 April 2016 at 3:23 pm

      A tall and handsome SA + wonderful perfumes=heaven!

      Log in to Reply
  5. hajusuuri says:
    6 April 2016 at 7:01 pm

    I’ll be in Florence for 5 hours this summer. Our cruiseship will be docking about an hour or so away and we booked a land transfer to get to Florence and explore it on our own. Crazy me wants to stop by SMN but the rationale me says are you nuts? I’ll compromise and say that I’ll only stop in if I somehow stumble upon it after I light a candle at the Basilica ;-)

    And Cuba — I had a nice visit there 5 years ago and I want to go back before it gets overrun by more tourists. Unless improvements are made quickly and in a big way, the infrastructure will collapse. In fact, I would probably only do it via cruise so I don’t have to be concerned about accommodations.

    Log in to Reply
    • nozknoz says:
      6 April 2016 at 7:29 pm

      Good to know, hajusuuri!

      I think I remember reading in Luca Turin’s Duftnotes about one or two wonderful niche perfume shops in Florence. Undoubtedly more by now.

      I’d be of two minds. On the one hand, it’s easy to find SNM in the U.S.; on the other, the original shop looks fabulous in photos. I hope you’ll report back!

      Log in to Reply
      • hajusuuri says:
        6 April 2016 at 8:09 pm

        I will. Right now, I am without a passport as I just sent it in as part of the renewal process.

        Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      6 April 2016 at 8:54 pm

      Hajusuuri…lucky you…on both counts — Cuba and Florence

      Log in to Reply
  6. Isabella says:
    6 April 2016 at 10:34 pm

    Thanks for this review, Kevin! Acqua di Cuba has been on my to-sample list for a long time, and this is a good reminder to go forth and actually *sample* it! I wish I’d known about Santa Maria Novella when I was in Florence years and years ago; it’s a great house. I wear their Caprifoglio cologne all summer long, and keep it in the fridge during heat waves for refreshing splashings.

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      6 April 2016 at 11:16 pm

      Isabella: you’re welcome…hope you get to smell it soon! Having our first 80 degree day in Seattle tomorrow…think I’ll wear it.

      Log in to Reply
  7. lindeberg38 says:
    7 April 2016 at 9:24 am

    Kevin, I love their patchouli and do give it a try if you like a real dirty and authentic patchouli. It’s simply irresistible. I too get lost in their other offerings at their NYC flagship on Lafayette. The iris toothpaste is nice as a guest bedroom bathroom treat. And, the naturally scented clay stone rock will scent your entire home for a year. Who knew one clay stone could do so much, haha. You’ve inspired me to pop in this weekend.

    Log in to Reply
    • Kevin says:
      7 April 2016 at 11:36 am

      Lindeberg, have fun!

      Log in to Reply
    • Laura says:
      7 April 2016 at 3:25 pm

      The clay stone sounds fabulous. Making a mental note.

      Log in to Reply

Leave a reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Advertisement

Search

From NST at Twitter

  • "LVMH's record-breaking results driven by Sephora" (cosmetics business) https://t.co/NKkwcZBJeW,
  • "‘Bionic nose’ may help people experiencing smell loss, researchers say" (washington post) https://t.co/M9nX7UVMpS,
  • "It costs up to $100,000 a kilo and Queensland farmers are growing it for luxury perfume" (sydney morning herald) https://t.co/gs8w4s7zpS,
  • "Francis Kurkdjian, creator of Baccarat Rouge 540: ‘People went crazy and it sold out immediately’" (el pais) https://t.co/cxGHgzgFd3,
  • "Yves Saint Laurent Launches New Perfume-Inspired NFTs" (business2community) https://t.co/dOaVNjWgsd https://t.co/vQs5nmJ1yH,

Browse by...

Topic

Perfume talk New fragrances
Shopping Books :: News
Body products Home fragrance
Polls Another subject

Date

December 2022
November 2022
October 2022
September 2022
August 2022
July 2022

Prior months

Author

Robin Jessica
Angela Kevin
Erin Guest Author

Tag

Celebrity perfumes
Cheap thrills
Collector bottles
Perfumista tip series
Video
The complete tag index

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

4 January ~ damage poll
4 February ~ winter reading poll

TBA April ~ swap meet

Back to Top

Home
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy

Shop for Perfume Online
Perfume Shopping in New York
Perfume Shopping in London
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Links
Perfume Books
Fragrance Awards

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2023 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.