“Kilian Hennessy’s innate passion for luxury and fragrance influences every aspect of By Kilian,” said John Demsey, Estée Lauder group president. “As a brand builder, Kilian has done an incredible job of expressing his…olfactive and visual philosophy to his enthusiastic global fan base. We see a bright future for this brand, building on what Kilian and his talented team have already accomplished — and we can’t wait to get to work.”
— Via Estée Lauder Adds By Kilian to Luxury Fragrance Holdings at Women's Wear Daily. By Kilian joins Le Labo and Frédéric Malle in the Estée Lauder stable.
Is Lauder trying to become the new LVMH?
I would say they’re trying to be smarter than LVMH…they’re picking up fewer mid-level designer brands and more high-end niche brands.
You are absolutely right. After leaving this message I realised that, fortunately, there are big differences. Lauder seems to have shown more dedication to quality than LVMH.
I just don’t like these big conglomerates.
I don’t like them either. But I have way less quarrel with EL than LVMH. But who knows what any of these companies will be like 20 years from now…
Me neither, Austenfan. Darn them all, with their accountants and teenager focus groups. And I don’t understand their ways, either. I mean, doesn’t Kilian make his perfumes with Henessy alcohol? Isn’t he the LVMH heir?
I’m still especially disappointed in Malle for what I see as selling out.
That was the biggest surprise of all these.
I had the chance to interview Frederic Malle in person about 6 months after the sale to Estee Lauder had been announced and I don’t think that he deserves all the flack he’s getting for the sale. The main reason he sold was that he wants to keep opening his own shops and maintain control over the way the fragrances are sold. For example, he said he wanted to open boutiques in LA but that he didn’t have the expertise or contacts to do that without a lot of money, time, travel and personnel. Running a successful international business takes a lot and rather than selling out by being stocked in every department store and perfumery who approach him, the brand want to own their own spaces.
Oh my goodness! Really?
No lie.
What is with Lauder? Who’s next, Andy Tauer? Serge Lutens? Amouage? It’s scary that Lauder is buying up niche brands left and right.
SL is already owned by Shiseido. However, niche becomes mass, that’s true.
I knew that SL had worked for Shiseido but didn’t know that he was owned by them. Not like I really, really pay attention.
Shiseido bought his trademark last year. Makes sense as he must be near retirement.
Hmm…I wonder if that means the Lauder will have a say of his releases from now on? I hope they let him stay creative…
I was thinking that Kilian being Hennessy, was already part of LVMH? Guess not…
That’s exactly what I was thinking….
It was not on a list that I saw posted recently. In the beginning, BK PR stressed that he was aiming for true luxury as distinct from conglomerate luxury (paraphrasing here). Many would scoff, but that was the intent expressed.
I was thinking the exact same thing.
Well, if you are going to see one of your favorite niche perfumes purchased by a conglomerate, EL seems like a better option. Granted, as Robin notes, no telling what any of these companies will be like in the future.
I agree with some comments of surprise above!I would have thought Kilian being an heir of LMVH would simply add his portfolio to that?My big question is this:does all these aquisitions mean greater distribution of some Niche brands?Because it hasn’t happened with Malle nor Lutens after they went “big-conglomerate”! (At least not in South Africa as yet)
Not necessarily. We’ll see what happens. All of these brands are already available in some high end department stores in the US, but would think EL would want to keep these brands in the exclusive / luxury category.
My crystal ball says the next company targeted will be either Arquiste, Byredo or Atelier Cologne based on age of company, portfolio and owner profile.
Won’t be Byredo — they’re already bought!