Mousseline Pêche is a recent collaboration between indie perfumer Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume Co and Providence-based fashion designer Jonathan Joseph Peters. It's inspired by the fabric mousseline de soie (silk muslin) and its composition includes notes of yuzu, pink grapefruit, rosewood, peach accord, ylang ylang, rose otto, tonka, vetiver and spun sugar (natural maltol).
I'm not familiar with Peters's designs (I've never even seen Project Runway, on which he appeared in 2010), but I've tried several other fragrances from Providence Perfume Co over the past two years, and Mousseline Pêche is my new favorite. When we smell Mousseline Pêche, we're meant to imagine a sun-ripened peach, a dress of pale peach-colored mousseline and warm skin, and the fragrance really does make all this possible. It's warm and bright and gentle, and it's a worthy reminder that "fruity florals" can indeed be beautiful.
Mousseline Pêche is so smoothly blended that I can only guess what went into its velvety-soft "peach accord" — the yuzu essence must be combined with something more tender, like mimosa and perhaps some osmanthus flower. Then again, it's a treat just to relax into the evocation of a peach's fuzz and flesh. The ylang ylang note is sweetly rubbery, and the tonka and sugar notes emerge with the ylang ylang for a very light gourmand effect. Just when you think that the peach of Mousseline Pêche might be destined for some delicately crafted pastry, with a light buttery crust and a custard base and a dusting of spice (cinnamon?) and slivered almonds, the fragrance quiets down and settles into more basic themes of fruit and (very light) wood.
The only drawback to Mousseline Pêche is its lack of staying power on skin. It's an all-natural fragrance, of course, and it's blended primarily from fruit and flower essences (which are lightweight in nature), so its brevity is somewhat to be expected, but it really is fleeting. I can only smell it on my arm for two hours at the most. Like a summer day, it's lovely and temperate, but it has all too short a lease. Even so, I've been enjoying it even more than Eva Luna or Ginger Lily, my two previous favorites from Providence Perfume Co.
Providence Perfume Co Mousseline Pêche is available in 15 ml Eau de Toilette ($50). It is a limited edition. For purchasing information, see the listing for Providence Perfume Co under Perfume Houses.