“The souk! It smells like the SOUK! Yes…the SOUK!” In the middle of Bullocks Wilshire’s perfume gallery stood a statuesque African woman (Senegalese, if I remember correctly) — she was wearing a striped green-and-red silk wrap-dress, and had on enough gold jewelry to crush a lesser woman. “Madame” (“madame” was what the sales woman called her) stood with one hand on her hip and the other hand thrust out in front of her, palm facing the ceiling; she waved this Bijan perfume-moistened arm to and fro and took deep breaths of the scented air around her. Ever since, I’ve not looked at the famous Bijan bottle or smelled Bijan for Women without recalling Madame; she was the personification of an Eighties Bijan woman: glamorous, “exotic,” rich and theatrical. Of all those, ‘theatrical’ was my favorite (and still is). When Madame’s eyes met mine, she smiled widely and turned up her chin — I was then but a ‘babe’ and I felt weak in the knees.
Madame's “souk” pronouncements were meaningless to me, I hadn’t been to one. Years later, with several souk visits behind me, I can see her point. Vintage Bijan for Women smelled like the air of a crowded Middle East market: there were whiffs of pungent spices; sweat of customers and stall owners; cosmetics and medicines; bouquets of flowers as well as rose and orange blossom perfumes that scented women and men; amber-y accords blending in the air that was redolent of confections (nutty, sticky, sugary sweets) and sandalwood incense. Bijan for Women was a heady experience.
Twenty-six years after its debut (when the ads bragged of “173 rare ingredients*” in its formula), Bijan for Women still smells good, if a tad less assertive. Today’s Bijan for Women goes on smelling of citrusy neroli; quickly a floral knock-out punch is delivered with syrupy (almost medicinal) jabs of rose, candied heliotrope, tuberose, orange blossom and (in a softer vein) lily of the valley. The accord that stands out for me smells mossy, with added honeycomb, pepper and resin.
During mid-development, I don’t detect any cumin, but there’s a slightly “bitter” perfume-mixing-with-sweat phase (not at all dirty smelling, let’s call it a “harried” note, one that’s produced on a hot day when we dash around and heat up). During the dry down, Bijan becomes calmer, cleaner and creamy, with sweet musk-tonka bean and floral amber (patchouli is present, but "distant"). Overall, Bijan for Women smells more modern than contemporary; it did try to conjure the Middle East in pre-oud perfume days, but I’m betting many will now find it old-fashioned, too plush, too-too.
Not me! I wear Bijan for Women every now and then (just like I still wear Bijan Men). I find Bijan for Women, even with all the flowers, a (semi)unisex fragrance thanks to its resin/wood and spice. Only in the extreme dry down does it become overtly feminine, and that's when a fresh spritz is needed to re-sprout some chest hair. Expect extravagant sillage and great lasting power with Bijan for Women.
As for the Senegalese diva at Bullocks Wilshire? I wish I knew if she bought a bottle of Bijan for Women. A single bottle? What am I saying? She probably bought a case.
Bijan for Women is $130 for 75 ml at Bijan Fragrances (it is also readily available online at steep discounts).
*Among those notes: bergamot, neroli, ylang-ylang, rose, heliotrope, tuberose, orange blossom, lily of the valley, narcissus, pimento, jasmine, carnation, honey, orris root, oak moss, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, amber, benzoin, musk, tonka bean and vanilla.
Note: middle image is Bijan Pakzad’s famous perfume-bottle chandelier (via Photo Gallery, House of Bijan) showing the original Bijan for Women bottles — same as the top image. I believe the chandelier sold this spring for $200,000. Lower image is how the Bijan for Women bottle looks today (I wish they'd kept the original glass top)
I have always loved this perfume. I haven’t worn it in years but you have inspired me to search out a decant at least. I HATE the new bottle! What used to look unique and classy now looks like a pacifier or a candy ring for a pre-teen.
Kelly: I hope it’s a happy reunion! I love the old bottle too…don’t know why they reshaped the cap…to save some bucks no doubt.
Wonderful review Kevin! I remember the print ads for these perfume from 20-30 years ago. They always featured Mr. Bijan with an ear to ear smile, usually caught leaping in mid-air while wearing an enormous fur coat or a white and navy “yachting ensemble”. The text was usually about how much he loved being married and being a father. He looked like a great guy who really loved life. I never smelled the perfume, but the bottle was so distinctive at that time – once seen, never forgotten.
Dzing, the ads were over the top! Do try the perfume
As always, Thanks for a great review! wish I had a time machine to buy all those great 80’s scents (and talk some sense into my younger self)!
Datura: me too!
Wow, Kevin…you remember the old Bullock’s Wilshire store! I was there the week-end that it closed, and I remember the place pretty well. It was a world away from the suburban mall-type department stores that are characteristic of So Cal. I remember the port cochere (not sure if that’s spelled right – where cars drove up in the back), the elegant cafe upstairs, and the whole look and feel of the place. The ceilings were amazingly high. The Steubben Crystal company had its own store-within-a-store there. The men’s clothing department spoke of an entirely different era – when Clark Gable might have stopped in to get some shirts or ties. One star – can’t remember who – was famous for sitting in her car and having sales clerks bring her merchandise (to the car).
Bijan was amazing at getting publicity. The first person I know who advertised exclusivity – “I have a store on Rodeo Drive, but don’t bother coming unless you have an appointment.” I walked by the store several times and saw his Rolls Royce parked right in front – a man with enough skill at self-promotion to make it in LA! He and the Fred Heyman (of Giorgio fame – now there’s a fragrance for you) put Rodeo Drive on the map.
Giorgio was one of the first fragrances to use “scent strips” in magazines in a big way. They also pioneered mail-order for fragrance sales – a new concept at the time.
VanMorrisonFan: yes, I knew Bullocks Wilshire VERY well…too well, especially the men’s perfume counter and that wonderful little store where you could buy strange things from around the world: horn and silver paperweights, colorful carved boxes from Poland with inlaid metal on top, children’s hats from Thailand. HA!
I adored this and wore it frequently back in the day. I probably over applied but my favorite part was the beautiful warm ambery orange blossom drydown, with a touch of musk (no real skanky notes here). The longevity was amazing too!
Smokey Toes: I can still smell the faintest whiff of Bijan I put on MONDAY…yes, two days and two showers ago.
Thank you for reviewing something that is cheap and easy to find!!
leathermountain: ha, you’re welcome!
“… and that’s when a fresh spritz is needed to re-sprout some chest hair.” Hee, hee! Thanks for the fun review. I’ve been wanting to try this, since it has carnation in it. It won’t be hard to find some.
Kindcrow, hope you like it
Read this after visiting friends and their 6-month old. This flacon looks exactly like his teething / pacifier thingy he kept gnawing at. I don’t judge fragrances by the flacon but this one sure is a turn-off.
Still, I remember the fragrance from way back and that was great. I’ll look for it online.