Back in 2010 we helped Lilian find a new perfume, and now she'd like us to help her find another. Lilian lives in Brazil, where she has limited access to some fragrance brands, but she is planning a trip to Rome and wants our advice on what perfumes she should try while she's there (and better yet, what stores to visit to find them). She'll wear her new perfume to work — she's a physician — and ideally it won't cost her more than $100, although she's prepared to go higher for something perfect. Here is what we know about Lilian:
She's a married woman in her mid-30s.
She loves reading, traveling, going to the gym and practicing outdoor activities and yoga.
She's a bit shy with people she doesn't know well, but she really has fun with her friends.
Lilian likes green floral scents, but she is keeping an open mind for her new scent. It might be something with lavender (she loves her sample of Tauer Perfumes Rêverie au Jardin) or something with leather or marine notes (she also likes her samples of Mare and Bottega Veneta). Other notes she likes include grass, crushed leaves, woods, iris, white florals, ginger, star anise, lily, muguet, fig, vetiver, light incense, amber and peppery notes.
Lilian doesn't like heavy incense, too sweet gourmands or powder notes. Fragrances she doesn't care for include Thierry Mugler Angel, Cacharel Loulou, Donna Karan Black Cashmere, Chanel No. 5 or 19, Bvlgari Omnia (all of them), the Nina Ricci and Issey Miyake lines, Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus, Tiare, Sampaquita, Fragipani and Champaca (they don't last on her).
Fragrances Lilian owns include:
Frederic Malle Lys Mediterranee: this time she would like something less floral.
LesNez Mamoumalia: she wears this for going out.
Penhaligon's Amaranthine: she wears it to work in small doses, but would like something less sweet.
Guerlain Precious Heart: a bit too girlish.
Estee Lauder Pleasures: too common now.
Fragrances she likes but doesn't own include:
Ormonde Jayne Woman & Tolu: she likes the enchanted forest stuff...
Gucci Envy
Tauer Perfumes Zeta & Carrillon pour un Ange
Amouage Jubilation XXV: too expensive
Parfumerie Generale Papyrus de Ciane & Gardenia Grand Soir
Diptyque Philosykos
Frederic Malle Le Perfum de Therese & Carnal Flower
Bond no 9 High Line, Saks Fifth Avenue en Rose
By Kilian Love and Tears
Christian Dior Diorissimo
What say you?
Note: top image is Number 24 [cropped] by thristian at flickr; some rights reserved.
For green scents, the first things that popped into my head were Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss and Maison Martin Margiela Untitled.
For a summery while floral with Italian connection how about Aqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile?
Also, since Lilian says she’s open to suggestions, I’m going to mention Marni. I imagine it will be easy enough to find in Rome.
Hi, Abyss! Once I’ve tried Jasmine White Moss, it was very good but still wasn’t “me”… But others fragrances that you recommended me I didn’t know yet, they will go to my list, thank you!!
Speaking of visting Rome: Few days ago I’ve just been told of the niche line Pro Fvmvm Roma at Via della Colonna Antonina, 27. Don’t know the brand enough to comment on the specifics, but since a trip to Rome is called for thought I pass that information along. Have a great trip!
Judging from Lilian’s preferred notes: Frederic Malle En Passant, maybe? Or Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia (although might be deemed a tad too floral for this search). If she likes iris–31 rue Cambon (in the travel size) or Prada Infusion d’Iris? Just a thought.
Hi, AlbertCAN!! Thank you for your advices,and I certainly will look for this address!
Cosigning Infusion d’Iris!
What about Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio or CG Calamus for green?
Hi! I’ve tried Ninfeo Mio, but I don’t remember anymore how it was… What is CG? Thank you!
Sorry, Comme des Garcons. Here are the two NST reviews:
https://nstperfume.com/2005/03/12/calamus-by-comme-des-garcons-series-1-leaves/
https://nstperfume.com/2010/01/11/annick-goutal-ninfeo-mio-fragrance-review/
Vero Profumo Kiki – happy lavender
Profumum Roma Ninfea – cut grass and roses
Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli – a see breeze
Atelier Cologne Sous le toit de Paris – suedy leather and crushed violet leaves.
Hi, Lucas! I’m glad for your advice, and I would like to say I love your blog…! Thank you!
Hello! Here’s Lilian, and I’m really happy to be on “Monday Mail” again… I would like to thank in advance all your recommendations!
Iimagine that there would be so much potential shopping to do in Rome that it might make sense to sniff around when you get there! However, that said, it’s hard for me to imagine a better overall scent than Ormonde Jayne Woman – it’s green, it’s woody, it’s wonderful!
Maggiecat, I’m with you and and it ‘s possible that I will but it!
Sorry! Buy it!
Oohh shopping in Rome! You will never have enough time…however you may try your best –
on Via Condotti (major luxury retail street in Rome) are ProFumum Durante and Olfattorio Perfume Bar which is kike a bar, but with perfume instead of drinks. The barista will guide you through different combinations of scents to work out your ideal fragrance. Exclusive handmade French perfumes are available to buy along with major well known brands. Smellings are free but you should book ahead.
Fairly nearby on Via del Corso (very busy street, can’t miss it) is Kiko which is a beauty and fragrance mecca
You can find Chanel, Emilio Pucci, Ferragamo, L’Occitane , Santa Maria Novella, Yves Rocher at major retail locations.
Located near the Pantheon is Ai Monasteri but beware they have strange retail hours and are usually only open in the afternoon. Also, Pantheon 70 is down the street from Ai Moasteril.
“Roma-Store” has no sign but everyone in Rome knows where it is, so don’t be afraid to ask. It is an enchanting perfume shop that you may love which is crammed full of deliciously enticing bottles of scent, including lots of unusual brands as well as ones like English Floris, Italian Aqua di Parma and French Etat Libre d’Orange.
Happy sniffing and shopping!
Your are amazing, Fuddy Duddy! Loved your advice!
Fuddy Duddy, I *think* you’re thinking of the via di Ripetta for Profumum and Olfattorio, not the via Condotti. The salesperson at that Profumum branch was super-nice and helpful when I was there last year. I also highly recommend Campomarzio 70 (plus it’s not far from Giolitti’s, the world’s greatest ice cream shop!).
Thank you!! I will look for it too.
Lilian might want to try out the L’Artisan Parfumeur line — the smaller bottles are in the right price range. Premier Figuer might work, and a flower-loving friend loves La Chasse aux Papillons.
I’m tried some of this brand, but not that you told me… Thank you!
Haven’t actually tried yet, but how about Miller et Bertaux Green Green Green?
Hi, Galbanumgal! In the last Monday Mall this fragrance was one of my recommendation, but I couldn’t find it… I will try hard this time to find it! Thank you!
Hi, fellow Brazilian,
I think you might like Bois 1920 Vetiver Ambrato. Divirta-se em Roma!
Hi, Solanace!! Brazilian too? Nice to meet you! So you know well my problem to find good fragrances! Thank you for your advice!
Nice to meet you too! We live in Dolce & Gabbana land, don’t we? But we are resilient.
I’m wearing Nez à Nez Marron Chic today, to celebrate the cooler weather. A nice iris scent that you might like as well.
perfume shopping in Rome, I haven’t been there for ages, but I have read excellent reviews for the “campo marzio” shops.
Thank you! I’ll look for this place!
Hi Lillian! A few different ideas–none of them terribly obscure so maybe you’ll have tried them already, but just in case there are any you haven’t encountered yet. And I’d they’re all gentle enough that you can wear them without risk of overwhelming patients.
— Chanel 28 La Pausa (lovely, elegant iris, just a bit earthy)
— Bottega Venetta Eau Legere (a crisper take on the original BV)
— The Hermes Jardin line (all have various combinations of notes you mention)
— Hermes Hiris (another earthy iris; admittedly this scent has some detractors but others find it very beautiful!)
— Prada Infusion d’Iris (as mentioned above!)
— Jo Malone Wild Fig & Cassis (cream fig with a bit of grass and woods)
Hi, CH! The only of you recommendation that I know is the Jardins series from Hermes, they are nice, but don’t last on my skin, so sad… But I will look for all of them. Thank you!
Prada Infusion d’Iris (mentioned above) was one of my first thoughts too. A few other ideas: L’Artisan Passage d’Enfer (for lily and light incense), Hermès Eau de Merveilles (or one of its flankers), or perhaps one from the Hermès Jardin series, since those wear well in warm weather (for example, Un Jardin en Méditerranée has fig leaf and woodsy notes).
Thank you! I’ve tried Eau de Merveilles once but it didn’t worked for me, but I’ve read about L’ambre de Merveilles and maybe it could be a good try…
Try Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens (cool and green) and Vanille Galante, Hermesse (subtle aquatic, slightly tropical lily). Are you familiar with Chanel Cristalle EDT?
Hi, Cybele! I don’t know any of them, I’m a bit afraid of Chanel fragrances because I’ve tried some, and didn’t worked for me, but I will try Cristalle!
Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio and Diptyque L’Ombre dans L’eau came to mind first. Or also, L’Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier might be good for you!
Hi, Sbe 13! Thank you for your recommendation! They are going to my list!
Rome has a lot of great perfume stores! I would like to recommend Mazzolari Marina, it is a lovely summer scent, aquatic but not artificial or synthetic smelling. Profumi di Pantelleria have some nice scents too: Aire and Nica are good for summer. You might also want to try Aqua di Biella Janca or Baraja. Bruno Acampora has some lovely herbal scents, such as Iranzol and Sballo. Have a great trip!
Thank you Cazaubon! It’s nice to have some Italian brands here!
For green floral I always advice A Scent by Issey Miyake Eau de toilette, crispy and with good staying power! Also Versense by Versace could do well.
Have a great time in Roma!!
Thank you, Racine!
I forgot to mention A scent is so different to Eau d issey line!!
I recommend L’artisan Poivre Piquant, it is creamy anise and black pepper that dries down to a lovely skin scent.
Hi, Rosiegreen62! Thank you!
My suggestions are:
L’artisan Fou d’Absinthe
Comme de Garcons Amazingreen
Byredo Oud Immortel
Voyage d’Hermes
Balenciaga L’Essence
Ineke Balmy Days and Sundays
Profumum Roma Alba or Aquae Nobilis or Ichnusa
Happy exploring and have a splendid stay in the wonderful city of Rome!
Thank you, Petronellacj!
Hi Lilian! When I was in Northern Italy a few months ago there were several stores that had beautiful window displays for a line called L’erbolario Lodi. The products were fairly inexpensive and each scent was available in a full range of soaps, lotions, etc. It kind of reminded me of Crabtree & Evelyn in the U.S. – unfortunately I cannot say what it would compare to in Brazil. I bought their Papavero Soave (sweet poppy) perfume. It is too deep and sweet for your list of likes, but is interesting and well done enough that I think you might find something else from this line that suits you. It makes for a great, local souvenir. Also, someone above already mentioned it but I want to reiterate that Santa Maria Novella has a store in Rome. They have a huge product line, many of which are light, citrusy, or green scents. Good luck and have a great time on your trip!
Thank you, Lucy! I will look for it too!