Givenchy bills Eaudemoiselle* as a youthful fragrance: an attempt to capture a young audience — and a presentation of a “rebellious rose.” (Roses are rebelling everywhere this year, most recently in Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin.)
Eaudemoiselle goes on with rose-tinged, opaque (sugar-glazed) citrus aromas — or is it citrus-tinged, opaque (sugar-dusted) rose aromas? Eaudemoiselle is sweet, but in a natural, old-fashioned way; it’s not a contemporary gourmand perfume (no neon-colored fruits or caramel or chocolate are involved). Eaudemoiselle’s vibe is floral-citrus, circa 1960s, but without the woody-mossy base you’d expect in that time period. There’s not a lot of change between Eaudemoiselle’s opening notes and its heart, but in mid-development the notes turn creamy, then change course and become a tad powdery. (Venerable Ÿsatis’ DNA is somewhere in Eaudemoiselle’s formula.) As Eaudemoiselle enters its final phase of development, it becomes even more rosy, though I can detect musky ambrette seed mixing with the flowers.
When I first discovered Eaudemoiselle in a scent strip in Neiman Marcus’s 2012 Christmas catalogue, I felt SURE I could wear it myself. I loved its retro character and it smelled unisex. But when I put the liquid perfume on my skin, I couldn’t imagine myself wearing it; it’s too feminine (and becomes more feminine the longer I wear it).
If Eaudemoiselle is Givenchy’s attempt at attracting a younger consumer, I’m dubious; I don’t see a retro-rose (without any modern embellishments) appealing to young women who love bright, almost metallic, floral perfumes, or fragrances drizzled with liquid sugar, cocoa, vanilla sauce and the like. (And there’s nothing “rebellious” about Eaudemoiselle’s rose note; it’s natural-smelling, mid-strength, and pleasant — a rose for a lady-who-lunches.) If you’re shopping for a pretty, summer-y rose perfume, give Eaudemoiselle a sniff.
Eaudemoiselle de Givenchy Eau de Toilette is available in 50/100 ml; $65/$87.
*Perfumer Francois Demachy; tangerine, Italian winter lemon, shiso, rose, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, crystal musk, ambrette seeds, tonka bean, cedar.
Note: top image by the author.