Italian niche perfumery Bois 1920 makes several perfumes I enjoy (Vetiver Ambrato, Sandalo e Thé, Sutra Ylang), but the company isn’t known for outré or highly original fragrances. Bois 1920 makes well-formulated, high-quality, good-smelling scents. Recently, Bois 1920 launched a limited edition marine fragrance for men: Oltremare (so limited they didn’t even bother to update their website with any info on the fragrance); Oltremare was made to conjure “the sea breeze,” “the smell of waves” and “the winter sea.”
Usually I don’t pay much attention to aquatic-fragrance launches, but curiosity (how will Bois 1920 tackle an aquatic cologne?) and the recommendations of people I trust made me want to try it. A Now Smell This reader kindly sent me a sample of Oltremare from Santa Barbara, California…an appropriately oceanic locale.
Oltremare includes fragrance notes of lemon, lime, sweet orange, bergamot, tea, red tea, Paraguayan tea, geranium, violet, hyacinth, rhubarb, juniper berries, sandalwood, ambergris, white musk and patchouli. Oltremare begins with citrus-y tea (cool lime-bergamot combined with red tea and yerba mate) and then, in mid-development, becomes a “whirlpool” of quickly arriving, quickly disappearing notes: juniper, geranium leaf, and perhaps ‘rhubarb’ (which, if that’s what I’m smelling, provides some “crispness” and tartness).
As Oltremare dries, it becomes more floral with smooth, sweet ‘aquatic’ hyacinth dominating some residual citrus and “red tea”/yerba mate (tea notes with a “sea” vibe…just sniff a freshly brewed cup of strong rooibos or mate and you’ll smell what I mean). In the extreme dry-down, white musk kicks in and sweetens the flowery aspect even further.
For those of you who have tried many aquatic colognes, Oltremare will smell familiar (on first sniff, it reminded me of Bond no. 9 Montauk, and phases of Oltremare's development brought to mind Bleu de Chanel, too); Oltremare is the type of aquatic fragrance whose “water” element is supplied by flower notes (often lotus, water lily, lilac, or in this case, hyacinth). Oltremare doesn’t smell too much like the ocean except in the perfume sense of the word “ocean.” Oltremare isn’t a cool, briny, ‘mineral’ ocean fragrance but more of a freshwater lake scent — clean and summery.
I’m not a fan of floral aquatics, and this scent didn’t change my mind, but Oltremare is one of the better aquatic colognes I’ve smelled (my favorite being Olivier Durbano Turquoise). Oltremare’s ingredients are top notch and rich-smelling (without being heavy). If you love aquatics, try Oltremare before it disappears (“only” 1,920 bottles were made, “1920”…get it?)
Oltremare Eau de Toilette has good lasting power and mild sillage, and is available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette ($220). For buying information, see the listing for Bois 1920 under Perfume Houses.
Note: top image (of hyacinth) via Wikimedia Commons.
Kevin, this sounds really good. Would you say it has more of a “bracing” aquatic quality or is more on the tranquil and light side?
For a time thanks to an infatuation with Coolwater Woman in my late teens, I was totally put off watery/aquatic frags and avoided them. But after loving Ael-Mat from Lostmarch and more recently, finding By Kilian’s Water Caligraphy to be just beautifully done without being boring or too “department store” in nature (not to mention the nearest to my dearly departed Shiseido Relaxing in a new release I’ve found so far), I’ve been thinking of dipping a toe into the genre a bit once again.
Do you have any idea where one could buy samples since this sounds like it’s in such limited distribution? And maybe it’s time for me to try that Bleu de Chanel, too, as long as I keep my expectations moderate.
Ab: this is tranquil for sure. Samples are impossible to find!
You can get samples at http://www.minnewyork.com
Thanks, C…didn’t know they had it.
Thanks, Kevin and Carlos. Off to check it out!
Lovely review, Kevin. Unfortunately, both tea and violet notes blow up on my skin and take over a scent, so this will probably be a pass for me. However, you *have* reminded me that I have a couple of Bois 1920 samples waiting to be tested so I will get to it!
R: thanks…and DO try those samples.
I *liked* this one, didn’t love. I DID love their other limited release Come L’Amore.
c: fie to these limited editions…so hard to find samples!
Well all you have to do is ask, silly. Shoot me an e mail
C: let me go read up on Come L’Amore then…
This one sounds really lovely ! Although I too don’t go for this genre, I would consider this as a gift for my partner as he love this type of fresh oceanonic, aquatic scents !! As it is a L E , and trees grow faster than him getting to the bottom of a 50 ml, I don’t thing we will meet this life time ! Thanks for the review;)
Sinnerman: believe me..it will take a LONG time to sell those 1,920 bottles…there’s hope yet!
Chuckling over “in the perfume sense of the word ‘ocean'” – we could do a parallel perfumiverse “dictionary” here, LOL!
Thanks for reviewing this, Kevin – I’m not interested in this sort of aquatics, but I have been wondering about this brand, so I appreciate hearing which ones you did like.
Noz: HA! Indeed!
Whenever I wear Vetiver Ambrato people you’d think would NEVER comment on perfume do.
Hey Kevin! Very late to the party here, but I was very excited to read your thoughts on this.
Of course, I loved Oltremare enough to buy a bottle. I think for me it was less “aquatic” in feeling to me than it was for you. To me, the lemon-citrus and other aromatic notes — including a hint of the tart rhubarb — are what made it for me. When I first smelled it in Barneys, I didn’t think it was anything so great, but I’m glad I asked for a spray sample, because many weeks later when I sprayed it on, it just captivated me. Sort of “fresh,” but in a bracing, citrus-forward way.
In any case, thanks for the review!