It’s appropriate the Bois 1920 perfume line is created in Florence; that Italian city, compared to Rome or Naples (or anyplace in Sicily!), is formal. Florentine people seem more reserved, conservative (in dress at least), orderly, and quieter than other Italians; they are not show-offs or big-mouths — and I‘m not knocking show-offs or big-mouths (I’m one). Bois 1920 perfumes, likewise, do not seek attention: they are understated, beautifully composed, and ‘at ease’ in almost any setting.
I like almost every perfume Bois 1920 makes and was surprised when I realized I’ve only reviewed my least favorite from the line. Today, I’m making amends by reviewing two quintessential Bois 1920 fragrances — Sandalo e The and 1920 Extreme.
Sandalo e The
(jasmine, Bulgarian rose, sandalwood, tea leaves)
Sandalo e The starts off with a smoky, dry and sharp (almost “dirty”) note. At times this note smells like smoked tea and at other times like an incinerated log left in the fireplace, ready to crumble. The perfume maintains these aromas into its heart and base, though in the extreme dry-down the sandalwood smells more like sawdust than ashes, and a dense floral accord materializes. The floral accord does not read “jasmine” or “rose” but smells like a combination of strong floral elements, intensified by heat or “curing.” These flowers are not fresh and they do not dominate the tea, smoke or wood notes. Sandalo e The has moderate sillage but excellent endurance.
1920 Extreme
(bergamot, fern, jasmine, Brazilian tonka beans, Bourbon vanilla)
1920 Extreme begins with the richest bergamot imaginable, combined with a “straw” aroma (fern? immortelle?); this opaque, sweetish and gleaming accord lasts throughout 1920 Extreme’s dry-down and is autumnal in tone (I often harvest beautiful strawflowers in fall for winter flower arrangements and the strawflowers’ dry-sweet scent reminds me of 1920 Extreme).
As 1920 Extreme enters its heart notes, a rich, but not indolic, jasmine becomes apparent; this is a syrupy jasmine, given some sweetness by 'self-effacing' vanilla and tonka beans. In the extreme dry-down a butterscotch note (faint, and a bit talcy) appears.
Though 1920 Extreme seems to fade rather quickly, I got compliments hours after I put it on; if you get the scent on fabric, it will last for days. 1920 Extreme is a great perfume for chilly weather; it makes me feel “cozy.”
Bois 1920 Sandalo e The and 1920 Extreme are available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette, $195. For buying information, see the listing for Bois 1920 under Perfume Houses.
Note: top image via Wikimedia Commons.
Agree with you that this company makes some beautiful fragrances. Their Come L’Amore is one of the more perfect jasmines and their Le Voluttuose (The Voluptuous) collection is a totally unique take on vanillas.
flannery: I also want to try the new limited editions before they vanish.
another agree-er here, regarding the quality of these fragrances. I purchased a full bottle of Agrumi Amari di Sicilia for my son, who likes citrusy scents. It never fails to bring him compliments.
My interest is peaked by your comments re: 1920 Extreme, Kevin, and now I’m off to purchase a sample. Thanks.
sacre bleu: you’re welcome…hope you like 1920 Extreme.
Sandalo e The was something that I wanted to try but I never got around to it. It sounds like something that I should definitely try.
I also wanted to try Real Patchouly. Vento di Fiori sounds good too.
I was looking through the Santa Maria Novella website a few weeks ago and I discovered that they have really fancy-sounding honeys. Ever since then I’ve kind of wanted to go to Florence. Honey is a reasonable reason to travel, right?
Engelwurz: I think so! All it takes sometimes is the mention of a cocktail at a certain bar, or a rare, unexportable soap, to get me thinking about booking a trip. If you’ve never been to Florence, certainly that honey purchase could easily be justified by the art you’ll see (and the glorious Santa Maria Novella “shop”)
Engelwurz, if you are ever in the DC area, there is a SMN boutique at Friendship Heights/Chevy Chase. Not to discourage a visit to Florence, of course.
There’s a Santa Maria Novella boutique in Chevy Chase? Isn’t that like…really not haute? I’ve never been to the Maryland side of the DC area but I’ve always assumed the Virginia side is much superior. Does it have honey? I live an hour away but I don’t know if I can get anyone to take me (no car) before I leave but if there’s honey then I’ll make it happen.
Engelwurz: HA! Chevy Chase is NICE…but I’ve never seen any of the SMN foodstuffs for sale in the US…you’ll certainly want to call before you take that trip.
Engelwurz, shopping around the Chevy Chase/Friendship Heights metro station ranges from from T.J. Maxx and Loehmans to Roche-Bobois and Cartier. It’s not as vast as Tysons in Virginia, but also less hectic.
I haven’t actually visited the SNM boutique yet, but I’m not seeing honey on the U.S. website. The number is (240) 743-4949 if you want to doublecheck. Sorry, it sounds like you will be FORCED to visit Florence!
I know I tried Sandalo e The at some point and thought it was nice, but I don’t remember the smokiness. I need to try it again—both of these, actually!
Janice: it was very smoky-ashy on me…maybe your skin tamed it?
I really like the regular Classic 1920. Must try the Extreme, as I’m sure I would like the strawflower notes, which seem to be really present in that one.
Mary Carol: yes, those two are completely different perfumes (they should have given the Extreme a different name!)
Hi!. glad BOIS got another good look at, and by the good eye to! Your, Kevin, earlier review of George inspired me to get a bottle of it, and now I am in the early stages of exploration; not a simple fragrance, for sure. As for the BOIS I own Come La Luna and love it, especially in this time of year; the drydown is long and fabulous. Recently my DH and I went thru the Holt’s here in T.O. and I quickly spayed 1920 on him. Let me just say that knowing my obsession with all expensive smelling liquids in small bottles he wasn’t very happy with my attack at first, but later that evening he did mention a couple times that he really liked the fragrance. ….Made me think if I should get him 1920 Extreme soon.
Salamandra: hey, Christmas is coming up!
Yep, it’s coming… sooner than anyone wants to. With all this slash and cold here in Canada right until April… Brrrrrr………………………
A nice new and “cozy” perfume is definitely a proper cure all the above.
Kevin, how about reviewing another great from BOIS – Sushi Imperiale.? I’m sure many people would love to hear it coming from the same nose.
Both of these sound uberly appealing! I believe MinNY caries the line so I guess I need to go downtown.
Hajusuuri: Barneys NY carries the line now too…
Good to know! I’ll be there again next week so will absolutely weasel a sample or two.
That is interesting that you like Extreme for chilly weather. I have a bottle of Missoni that also has a butterscotch scent in the dry down. I don’t wear it often, but when I do I invariably discover that it is a chilly, damp day! Curiouser and curiouser…