Some rainy days inspire me to match their cloudiness with watery,wistful fragrances like Guerlain Apres L'Ondée or Frédéric Malle L'Eau d'Hiver. Other rainy days, particularly ones that fall after an especially beautiful sunny weekend in May, provoke me to counteract the forecast with something bright and euphoric. Lately I've been using a patterned magenta umbrella that cheers me slightly whenever I open it, despite the gloom and damp of the day's weather; the right fragrance can have a similar effect on my mood.
This week, my anti-gray fragrance is Sarah Horowitz Perfect Bliss, for which the perfumer Sarah Horowitz-Thran was inspired by the floral arrangements at her own wedding. The composition for Perfect Bliss includes top notes of blood orange, mango, and papaya; a middle accord of gardenia; and base notes of vanilla, patchouli, cedar, and musk.
I like Sarah Horowitz's lists of notes, because they usually reflect just what I'm smelling in the fragrances themselves without adding any elaborate fictional "notes" that leave me scratching my head. (Pink icing? sheer pear-wood? lily tears?) Perfect Bliss starts with a very juicy fruit mix that really does evoke orange, mango, and pear. It's sweet and rounded, without any sharp edges to the citrus or any of the sweaty quality that mango scents often bring to my skin. There's less gardenia in the fragrance's heart than I expected, which is fine, because I'm not usually a gardenia-wearer (although I love having the actual flowers nearby in a room). It's a subtle, creamy floral note that weaves in and out of the fruit, which has settled and darkened just a bit by now. The base, which lasts a good while on the skin, is a non-desserty vanilla mixed with smooth woods. The patchouli never seems to appear, but that's also fine: it would seem a little out-of-place in this girlish gathering of sweeter notes. By the long-term dry down, the fruity cocktail notes have entirely evaporated, leaving a quiet gourmand warmth.
Last year, in a review of two new releases from MCMC Fragrances, I expressed the wish that I could steer perfume-shoppers towards good quality fruity-floral fragrances from niche brands. Sarah Horowitz is another example of this type. Perfect Bliss, like Coconut Milk and its other companions in the line, satisfies my occasional taste for a mouth-watering fruit-and-flower scent far more than anything from Juicy Couture, Coach, or any of the other same-looking pink bottles displayed under Sephora's hot lights. It's bright and upbeat without being silly, it delivers just what it promises, and it's reasonably priced. If all that sounds good to you, you may wish to sample a few of Sarah Horowitz's fragrances.
Sarah Horowitz Perfect Bliss is available as Perfume Oil (6 ml roll-on for $40) and Eau de Parfum (15 ml for $40, 30 ml for $60). Matching body products are also offered. For purchasing information, see the listing for Sarah Horowitz under Perfume Houses.
Note: top left image is Gardenia sootepensis 2, via Wikimedia.
The only Sarah Horowitz that I’ve tried is Roots. I don’t mind grown up fruity florals, it’s those super sweet mass market things I can’t stomach. This sounds nice.
Poodle, what did you think of Roots? It wasn’t at all what I was expecting — on me it was more powdery than root-y, and it wasn’t really powdery in the same way that iris can be powdery — but that being said, I did rather like it.
Same as you, it was not what I expected. It was much softer. It wasn’t like a baby powder powdery but it wasn’t the earthy, woody thing I was anticipating. I like it but I think I’d want to try a good spray of it because dabbing didn’t do it for me. I did like the fact that on me at least it didn’t smell like straight vanilla. I love vanilla but sometimes it takes over and that’s all you get which is fine sometimes but not always. It wasn’t one of those “must have a full bottle now” scents but I do like it and might consider it in the future.
Yeah, I didn’t get much woody-earthy stuff, and no vanilla at all. I still have some of my sample left, and I’ve been meaning to revisit it.
Poodle, I haven’t tried Roots! But I did like Coconut Milk, which surprised me; I’m not usually a “tropical” scent person.
I just checked my samples and I did try Belle Route as well. That one was nice too. I just checked and the notes are tuberose and fig among others. Maybe I’ll give the Coconut Milk and this a try. I think they didn’t last long on me, but few things do.
I had a harder time with the drydown, but I am not a dark gourmand type of perfume wearer. That is how it came off on me, less white floral or fruity, more vanilla/alcohol-type smell. I do like her Perfect Nectar, it is similar to Jo Malone Nectarine and Honey but perhaps more vibrant and “juicier”. Certainly more long-lasting!
You’re right, JM’s Nectarine & Honey is really fleeting! I’ve found that SH’s scents have good staying power, maybe partly because they’re oils…
I think I got a sample of Roots a couple of years ago, and when it wasn’t anything like what I expected, I didn’t explore the line any further. But I’ve been meaning to try Coconut Milk since you reviewed it, and now I’m adding this one to the list!
There’s nothing wrong with the IDEA of a fruity floral in principle – I love the plum-rose BK Liaisons Dangereuses for fall – it would be really great to have a good one for spring and summer!
I agree… I have nothing against fruity-floral fragrances, except when they all start to smell like the same blend of hairspray, Jolly-Ranchers, and soap!
Dangerous Liaisons is my favorite Kilian, actually.
I am curious about Sarah Horowitz-Thran’s line, but her fragrances seem to lean towards the sweet, fruity, and gourmand. Does she have one that might please an iris-green-aldehyde lover such as myself?
I second this question!
Hm, thinking… I think SH’s overall style does tend to lean towards the fruit-gourmand end of things. Peace Comes From Within is a sheer citrus-musk, and then there’s this limited edition from the “Banque des Parfums” category, Emerald Night: “sultry, crisp and classic, with notes of red and green manderin, fig, jasmine grandiflorium, spicy patchouli, a hint of vanilla, and spring musk.” But I haven’t smelled it yet!