The Little Book of Perfumes: The Hundred Classics by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez is officially on sale now — if you pre-ordered, you probably already have your copy.
If you don't know what it is, you can find the book announcement here. I'm not going to review it (nor is anyone else around here, since we haven't got a book reviewer at the moment), but I'll tell you a few things I noticed right away:
The snark is gone, largely because they're only talking about fragrances they think are good. If you liked the snark, that will be a minus, but for those who were put off by the tone, this is the volume you want.
Many of you were wondering if you needed The Little Book if you already owned one of the original two versions (Perfumes: The Guide or Perfumes: The A-Z Guide). That is, of course, up to you, but there is new material, albeit not a ton of it (and it's a short book in any case). If you want more specifics on what's new, see the book announcement linked above. To me, even the updates on recent versions of classic fragrances are worth the price of admission. Here's their take on the newest formulation of my very old and dear friend Dior Eau Sauvage:
The entire heart has fallen out of this fragrance. It is now close to Jo Malone's Lime Basil & Mandarin, a perfectly nice refined light citrus but no longer in the least bit Sauvage. TS
Well. The less said about that, perhaps, the better, and do bear in mind that the Diorissimo, one of the greatest perfumes ever made, isn't included at all because it's now so crappy that it doesn't make the cut. Thanks, IFRA!
It's a compact little thing — about 8 1/2 by 4 3/4. Slipping it into your purse (or man-bag) and carrying it with you when you go shopping will not be a problem.
There are nine Top 10 lists, including Desert Island lists for both authors.
It is just as much fun as ever to disagree with them. There is already an apoplectic comment on the Amazon page complaining that there's nothing included from Annick Goutal or Frédéric Malle (and you'll find many other perfumista favorites missing as well).
Once again, Luca and Tania have agreed to answer our questions about perfume and their new book.* Think of this as a group interview project — you can ask your questions in the comments below, and then I’ll compile them and send them off and when I get the answers back I’ll post them in a new article. I can’t swear they’ll answer all our questions (perhaps we’ll have to see how many we get) but I’m sure they’ll do their best. I’ll leave the comments open until whatever time I get up (and remember) on Sunday morning, then I’ll shut off the commenting feature for this article.
Oh, and if you just want to comment on the book but you don't have a question, that's fine too!
*If you missed it, way back when, see the Q&A on Perfumes: The Guide, part 1 and part 2.
Update: oops, I completely forgot to say that a review copy of this book was provided by the publisher.
Hey Luca and Tania – we miss you!!!! Would love to see an update of The Guide. Is that a possibility?
I have just got my copy and it has come to my attention that the paper lining in Olfacta of Olfactarama’s copy is shocking pink while mine is lime green. Is some kind of colour coding in place according to continent? Did the printers run out of pink paper? And I assume the cut on the bias thing is deliberate. Looks quite wacky, like an Incan temple (or something).
Also, I absolutely love the black and gold cover design, and although my own tastes have barely any congruence with LT and TS, the reviews are enjoyable for their own sake. The addition of the $$$ price points is a helpful touch.
I do know that the covers are different in the US & UK, and possibly the size too — I should have mentioned that above! But you’re saying you both have the same cover, but different color paper inside? (BTW, my US copy has hot pink)
Oh, and for US readers who want to see the UK cover:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Little-Book-Perfumes-100-classics/dp/1846685192/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320341987&sr=8-1
Oh yes, I see the outer cover is quite different now – I think I prefer the UK version. And yes, lime green instead of hot pink. What was the thinking behind the two covers/liners then? Why would two versions be necessary? Was this focus grouped in advance?
: – )
Big thanks to Luca, Tania and Robin for this!
I own (and enjoy hugely!) both the hardback and paperback copies of PTG and I am waiting for this to show up at my local store so that I can have a leaf through and decide if I should buy this too.
Since I’m yet to buy the new book, I don’t really have any questions so I just wanted to let them know that I really miss both Luca’s Folio column and the quarterly updates.
My question is, in your opinion which perfume house has had the most heinous reformulations? (My money is on Dior.) Which house has had the most respectful reformulations?
Angie, I have a side question that relates to yours — in their review of Diorella (2011 update) they say “No one can blame Dior’s head perfumer, Francois Demachy, for allergen regulations that have made citrus, jasmine, and oakmoss tricky to use’, but it seems to me that you’re spot on, Dior has done the worst job of any house. Just figures that they had all the iconic Edmond Roudnitska fragrances. I’d like to know if there is something about those fragrances in particular that makes them harder to update than, say, the fragrances in Chanel’s back catalog.
Great question! The Diors aren’t the only fragrances with jasmine, citrus, and oakmoss.
Great questions! I imagine Caron would make a strong contender for worst re-formulations too.
Egads, yes.
It’s so hard to choose: don’t forget Coty!
Not a question, but I would also love to see an updated PTG. I’ve only recently begun my serious journey into scent and would love to read their thoughts on the major releases of the last two years. Even if it’s only on a website somewhere. Maybe I’ll come up with a brilliant question later 🙂
If one takes a 3 year old ‘best of’ list of wines and updates the same list three years later, wouldn’t wine lovers feel cheated? … I think their concept of the top 100 is great; I guess I wish they had done it 3 yrs ago and updated it with possible new additions for this edition. But, perhaps they found no new 5 star perfumes?? Or, are they disenchanted and avoid sniffing new releases or new houses? (I’m only going on hearsay, so I may need to be corrected.)
Yay! Ordering my copy now!
Question: what restrictions/regulations have most affected (or affected the most perfumes!) the industry…and how about a list of “now it is garbage” reformulations? 🙂
Yes, I’d very much like to hear their version of “Greatest Reformulation Crimes.” Like others, I personally believe Diorissimo should top the list.
That question would also be a great one to propose to this group on a Lazy Poll.
Question: The L’Heure Bleue review is very favorable; however, it would seem the formula is noticeably different. I have a fresh bottle from about a year ago and it is quite beautiful. Could this be the reformulation to which you refer or has there been further revisions?
Here’s my question, probably too specific, but I’ll ask: is Theo Fennell Scent in the EdT concentration similar to the EdP? The latter is not really available, and unfortunately I fell in love with the sample of it I ordered. That’s the skank I’ve been looking for.
I am not even to the point of lamenting classic perfumes lost like Diorissimo. I’m sad enough about the loss Theo Fennell Scent and other recents, like Le Feu d’Issey. I hear they discontinued Missoni, another heartbreaker. I hope it’s not true. I’ve never “stocked up” before but I’m considering.
(Tania’s comment about re-forumulated Dune having a fruity floral note at first is spot on!)
I recently bought a bottle of Theo Fennell Scent and it is the EdT. I’d have to wear them side by side, but they are pretty much identical to me. Perhaps a bit more transparent, but that’s it.
Thank you!
My question is in lieu of the obligatory request for an update: have any perfumes released in the last three years come close to making the “top 100” list? If so, which? If not, is something keeping perfumers from coming up with great new ideas?
Seconding this question!
Love this question, too. LT gave OJ Tiare a glowing, glowing review in one of his last Duftnotes – I believe he committed the supposed heresy of calling it better than Cristalle or something – so I was surprised to not see it in the book. Since a few of the 5-star scents from the 2007 guide have crapped out in the meantime, I didn’t think it wouldn’t mess with the numbers too much to simply add previously written reviews of new superstars. Maybe it’s a copyright issue.
Thanks to Luca and Tania for doing this – can’t wait to read the result!
This is not a question, but: although in this release they cover 4 scents from the Osmotheque (including a couple of the great Cotys) as well as those classics still in production, I would dearly love to see these two produce a book of their top 100 scents of all time. Their lucid, clever, and melodic prose would be fitting tribute to those monuments of perfumery that are lost, for various reasons, to us.
No AG or FM fragrances included? How odd.
Anyway, their absences notwithstanding, I look forward to reading the book, as have enjoyed all of the Perfume Guide installments and miss reading them on a quarterly basis.
Hugs!
You know, I don’t recall any of the AGs or FMs receiving 5 stars. Oh well.
Some AGs and FMs got 4 stars in the original guide, but I don’t think any got 5 stars, and this book is based on the 5-star list for the most part. It IS curious, though, isn’t it? I’d much rather have several of those than some of their 5-star perfumes (Tommy Girl, for example – shudder!!!!!).
The original books have introduced many wonderful scents that I would not otherwise have known. Many thanks for that.
One question, Is there any way the “reformulations” can be undone and the original formulas saved? As far as allergic reactions are concerned, people who are allergic to an ingredient or scent should just not buy that one. There have been several I can’t wear, including “Pleasures” which makes me sneeze like crazy. Fortunately, I don’t mind ignoring it. “Le De” which smelled great on my BF was a terrible sneeze inducing substance for me. Not hard to avoid it. Best wishes and thanks for the new book.
I feel that is it somewhat akin to being told that you can’t eat spicy food because your next-door neighbor has an ulcer.
I have a non-reformulation-related question. If Tauer’s Incense Rose is Mendelssohn, Le Parfum de therese is Mozart, and Mitsouko is a Brahms Concerto, what perfume is Schubert’s Winterreise? How about Schumann’s Dichterliebe?
I hang my head in shame that I did enjoy the snarky comments in PTG. I found them funny in the same way as Oscar Wilde’s (and Churchill’s) comebacks. My opinion often differed dramatically but I could still see the humour of their analysis.
I haven’t yet come across these new additions (though I own much-thumbed soft, and hard-cover editions of PTG). I was wondering if someone who has read the book could tell me whether there is any change in Luca Turin’s position that individual skin chemistry does not alter the scent of a perfume (after the top notes…)
I think I remember Tania Sanchez not agreeing with this but I was wondering whether there has been further dialogue in the debate.
I forget who it was (Mae West?) who said, “If you don’t have anything good to say about anyone – come sit by me!” 😉
It was Alice Roosevelt (daughter of Theodore) and she was so bold as to have the saying embroidered on a pillow on her settee.
LOL! Thanks, Lindaloo – and I love your screen name, BTW!
well, I bought it, but I really preferred the snarky reviews in the two former books, and these are missing, as Robin already mentioned…. The additions on reformulations are not really that numerous that makes this a must-have for whoever has the others, I’d say keep the money for the next bottle, even if it’s not a 5* one.
At first, I didn’t think I needed this book since I have the first two. I have since changed my mind after reading some things about it. Plus it’s so reasonably priced. And cute. I ordered it today. I don’t have a question at the moment, but if I think of one, I’ll be back!
Here’s my question: Of the niche lines that have debuted since the publication of the first edition of The Guide, which seem most promising?
Robin – any idea when Christian Dior changed the formula for Eau Sauvage? Was it a long time ago? I still like the fragrance…even if the formula has been altered. Now if you tell me that the formula for Armani pour Homme (the first men’s fragrance they made) has been changed I’ll want to stop living…
I am sure it has been altered more than once…literally, it is NEVER possible to answer a question like that because the brands sometimes make very minor changes over a period of some years, and also because product circulates far longer than most consumers are aware. But presumably, they made some major changes to comply with the IFRA 40th amendment, which took care of oakmoss, and then possibly later to deal with citrus regs. Supposedly Francois Demachy redid the whole line around 2009-2010.
Oh, and another question: How do M. Turin and Ms. Sanchez feel about the rapidly escalating perfume price points?
Hi Luca, Tania, Robin and Everyone Else,
It seems that so many fragrances are now released containing similar “fad” notes (e.g., pink pepper, oud). My question is, has this always been the case – with perfumers jumping on a bandwagon to use the note of the moment?
So many perfumes have disappeared over time, leaving mostly the classics, and it makes me wonder what the mainstream used to be like. Do we, today, complain too much about ingredients like “pink cupcake accord”? For all I know there could have been a million EDTs with similar crazy notes during the 1940s, and they just didn’t stand the test of time. Can’t wait to read the new book! The A-Z guide is my favorite travel companion.
My questions are already mentioned above:
Which new releases (since the last PTG) merit 5 stars? Or a list of their top ten to have come out since The Guide.
Name a few niche houses, esp. those not included in The Guide, have they have found to be worth exploring. And, which are all hot air and hype?
LOL on the cute photo containing a prominently displayed bottle of Lola, clearly one of the new masterpieces! Great photo regardless.
To avoid the sadness and disappointment that comes from longing after rare or just disappeared reformulations, I would be interested to hear about your favorite new perfumes from the last three years or so. Forget how they compare to the old classics- which ones were great on their own merits? Anything that shocked the pants off you with its quality or innovation?
Bonus points if it’s something in the affordable range for us mere mortals. 😉
I second this question!
I third it. And would like to broaden it a bit to ask if there is anything about the IFRA regulations that has pushed perfumers in positive, innovative directions? Are there benefits coming out of the restrictions?
My question is whether anyone, we, can DO anything about the restrictions. They seem to be getting more and more ridiculous as they get more and more, well, restrictive.
Who the heck oversees this regulating authority? Is it something that might respond to consumer feedback? The sense I get is that everyone is feeling intimidated and helpless in the face of this which is pretty discouraging.
Second question: are these restrictions being applied to functional cosmetic fragrances too? After all, we absorb so much through our skin that wasn’t previously thought to be the case. I get a heck of a bigger dose of, say, body lotion which, if unscented, has scent suppressors which are chemicals or fragrance chemicals if scented. It would be interesting to find out if the restrictions are being applied selectively.
Everyone I’ve talked to about this issue that loves perfume says the same thing – if you get a rash, don’t use it! Just like any other product.
I might be wrong and, if so, hopefully someone will correct me but my – admittedly vague – understanding is that firstly, this is industry regulating itself in order to avoid being regulated from the outside and many of these rules are self-imposed. And, secondly, cosmetics carry warnings along the lines of “discontinue use if rash appears” but fragrance companies don’t want to put such messages on perfume packaging for fear of it losing the luxury factor or some such thing.
This is the sort of infuriatingly absurd situation that drives sane people mad but I must admit that I’m not feeling terribly optimistic about things getting better especially since I would imagine that the perfumista community is a tiny minority and an average consumer doesn’t know, let alone care about the situation.
Another aspect is that although they talk about rashes and such, part of the allergen issue is that you are creating second-hand scented air, so to speak, that other people may inhale. When I saw Kilian we all jumped on the whole IFRA thing, and he explained that that is one reason for not labeling the product – because it doesn’t just affect you.
Good points.
The idea that fragrances affect other people makes me think of laundry products. That’s one of the reasons I make an effort to wear minimal perfume when out in public because the smell of laundry product residue can sometimes be overpowering to me. I also lived in a condo that vented the dryers into our windows and heating the fragrances does something truly evil to them – made me quite sick (headache, nausea) if I didn’t jump up and close the windows. All this and I can wear all the fine fragrance I want with no problem.
I guess it’s not a straightforward issue, but going after fine fragrance first (or at least most prominently) just doesn’t make sense to me.
It just seems that now that cigarette smoking has been “conquered” the pack has moved on to demonize perfume. Somehow I have trouble picturing catching a whiff of someones sillage being labeled carcinogenic “second hand sniffing”.
COMMENTS: I just received my preordered copy of The Little Book yesterday, and it is totally worth it to me for several reasons. First, when the original Guide first came out, I ordered samples of as many as possible of the original 5-star perfumes and still have many on my To Buy list. If their updates on reformulation save me from even one disappointment – which they will – the book has paid for itself several fold.
Second, I applaud LT and TS in their continuing efforts to shed light on the ongoing destruction of the art of perfume at the hands of IFRA and corporate accountants.
Third, although I love or admire many scents in this book, I’m struck by how many of my own most beloved perfumes are not in this book, either because they were mostly 4- or 3-star perfumes or too new to have been reviewed. I’m equally struck by the number of 5-star perfumes that I actively dislike (Tommy Girl?!?). Having only the 5-star perfumes in this new book really highlights that.
QUESTION 1: I’m fascinated by the Desert Island lists, which are entirely new. I guess my question would be, why Paradox and Talisman? They weren’t reviewed in The Guide, so I’m curious about what makes them wonderful. OF COURSE, I’m already arranging to sniff them myself, but I’m dying for LT’s analysis.
QUESTION 2: Although people’s tastes simply differ, sometimes I wonder if we aren’t smelling different perfumes from the same bottle due to anosmia and hyperosmia. For example, I really wanted to love Vetiver pour Elle, and I think I would if I could get a customized bottle with about one-tenth the level of the modern musk note. To me, what I smell is a mere suggestion of vetiver and floral notes, overwhelmed by a not unpleasant but truly gigantic chemical musk. That’s not what you smell, is it?
And again, huge thanks to Luca and Tania for being so knowledgeable and witty. Reading The Guide is like being seated next to the two most interesting people at a fabulous dinner party and saying, “Tell me more, tell me more!” all evening.
Re: your question #2, I’ve been wondering that about Musc Kublai Khan, whether people’s polarized reactions come from anosmic/hyperosmic perceptions to the musks used, do some people actually smell it as really unclean and some people smell it as quite soft and melodious. This would be opposed to the name and reputation bringing on some kind of weird collective hysteria about MKK’s “dirtiness” in spite of an objective assessment.
MKK is a GREAT example, Bonbori! Some describe it as smelling like a camel driver’s armpit, but I don’t get that at all. I get mostly mild smelling musks. I assume I’m just anosmic to most of it. On the other hand, it’s possible my twisted brain thinks camel drivers’ armpits smell nice! 😉
Timbuktu is another one. I usually get a strong cumin/celery/perspiration note. Others find it very fresh, and I sometimes smell that. I’m guessing that I’m hyperosmic to whatever causes that celery note.
N, give me a call if you need some decants of Paradox. I have an enormous bottle and am apparently the only person in the entire universe other than LT that likes it.
Oh, and actually, I have Talisman, too! (Not a fave, though.)
I love that photo Robin – I think I saw it before on the ‘Guide’ website.
I haven’t gotten this new book yet but I proudly own all of the previous Guide’s, including one with Turin’s signature (lucky me!).
Question to Turin/Sanchez: What fragrances (if any) did either of you strongly disagree on, that should NOT have been part of the Top 100 Classics book?
Oh and you two still living in Boston – I thought I read that you were in Europe now? How’s the perfume shopping there? 🙂
All the best you two!
Mike Perez
How do you feel about the direction Guerlain fragrances are going now that there is no longer a blood relative nose at the helm of creation?
I guess I am in the monority but, I couldn’t stand The guide.They were so offensive when they didn’t like a fragrance.Instead of saying why they didn’t like it in a clear way.Like for instance Paula Begoun she would clearly state why something wasn’t good.They just gave cheap shots in the end they just came off like snobs.I’ll pass.
Spelling error on minority.Sorry.
Must disagree on Paula Begoun (who I completely love by the way) – she frequently trashes stuff that she just happens not to like. And she does it in a snarky way. For skin care, sunscreens and products containing irritants, she includes apparently scientific safety data when she gives a review, but her comments on texture and reflective properties (whether something is matte or shiny, etc.) are utterly subjective. She just happens to have good taste, like LT and TS.
I adore the snark! Would LT & TS ever consider doing a “dark matter” version of “The Little Book”, in which they a) reprise their discussions of the worst perfumes ever, b) devise anti-Desert-Island lists (perfume Superfund Sites, perhaps?) and tell the tragedy of Diorissimo’s fall from grace?
I love the idea! LOL
Good enjoy the book.
Hi there. I just realized that my question may have appeared as though it was a response to your comment– it wasn’t at all, but I wish I had “looked before I leapt”. I do like snark… but against perfumes, not people. Sorry about that. 🙂
This question may be similar to one asked above, but I was going to ask if there were any perfumes they had to concede as ‘classics’ and include in their book but they personally don’t like?
My question for Tania and Luca: Is there anything you’re stock-piling, together or separately? Do tell…!
And for Luca (dumb question from a non-science person): with all your chemical analysis equipment, couldn’t you just whip us up some Iris Gris…?
And for Tania: Have you had a change of heart about poor Hiris?
Thanks!
G, the Hiris review was Luca. Trust me, I remember 🙂
Although this is a tired controversy, I’m curious about Luca and Tania’s philosophy on the”genderfication” of fragrance in Marketing and design. Why can’t ALL fragrances be listed as unisex (regardless of notes) instead of being deemed “feminine” or “masculine”? Is this an industry decision? Is it a cultural decision?
Thanks for the opportunity to ask L&T, Robin!
I too enjoyed the snark. My favorite is when LT calls something “dire”.
Questions for both:
Do you have any plans to do another event similar to what you did at the Smithsonian a few years back, with or without the Osmotheque?
Do you know if there’s any chance of the Osmotheque opening a branch location in New York?
What fragrance were you most impressed with in the past year? Biggest disappointment?
Thank-you
Its funny how they have a cult following I guess perfume critics are suppossed to be snobs.They were terribly rude in their book I can’t wait to give the book away.
Hadn’t really thought about perfume for years until I picked up the A-Z guide this summer to read on vacation. I was both entertained and intrigued. Am now exploring a new world of beauty–thank you!
My question for both authors may be too simplistic for a complicated topic, but anyway: if the IFRA-forbidden ingredients that make it impossible to duplicate the great classic perfumes are specific to the European Union, why not just manufacture the perfumes elsewhere? The formulas still exist, the ingredients still exist, right? (Somewhere, although I understand from the Basenotes interview with Thierry Wasser that they may now be difficult to find.)
This would seem to be a perfect opportunity for the major perfume houses to license the production of the “real” older perfumes to a small production facility or to create a subsidiary to manufacture them themselves. Then market the product with a warning label or something (Danger! Contains oakmoss!!). New perfumes that comply with the regulations could continue to be created as they are now.
Hey, it could even catch on with the non-perfumista public–bring it out as a “new” release!
It’s not snark. It’s wit.
Now back to the kitchen, where I’m whipping up a labdanum layer cake with bergamot butter cream and oakmoss pralines.
If the Vera Wangs are the fragrances de choix for a female/male wedding (well I guess for some), how would Luca and Tania fragrance two gentleman marrying from their 100 classics?