About the author: Nina is our guest shopper for London, and she not only kindly wrote up the Perfume Diaries exhibit for those of us who can't make it to London, she also took all of the images with the exception of the one just above, which is courtesy of Harrods.
Throughout September, Harrods is hosting a presentation of perfume through the ages. The Perfume Diaries is ‘an exhibition celebrating the past, present and future of the perfume industry.’
It’s on the fourth floor, in a long white space which has been put together with care and considerable style by Emma Jane Hockley (Harrods’ buyer for perfume and cosmetics — what a job!), and Harrods’ own Professeur de Parfums, Roja Dove. With this kind of clout, they’ve been able to pull in an amazing range of objects from all over the world.
Harrods generously invited perfume and beauty bloggers to a private viewing, and Robin equally generously allowed me to go instead of her. (And if you saw the quality of the patisserie offerings, you’d know how big a sacrifice this was.)
Racing in from a magazine interview, Roja Dove guided us round the exhibits. (He was exquisitely dressed in what we eventually decided was a Hermes silk shirt.) “I believe this is the important exhibition for years,” he said. “We managed to persuade many houses to dredge their archives for us, and some surprising things came to light. I filled in a lot of spaces in my own knowledge.”
The Perfume Diaries looks at perfume in the context of its capacity to reflect the socio-economic and political circumstances of the day. It therefore makes sense that the exhibition is arranged by date. Curved white cabinets display individual decades or eras, with bottles and other artifacts held behind the kind of glass panel that look as if nothing is there at all, and you could pick the bottle up… Ah, if only.
The story, according to Roja Dove, starts in the 1800s, when perfume was originally used in the form of a ‘toile’, or cloth pad, that was impregnated with powdered scent and used for freshening up after sleeping. Later, a way was found to produce the same effect as a liquid, and the house of Lubin was the first to sell Eau de Toilette (get it?).
On display are some fascinating objects from this time, including a ‘civet horn’ — a ram’s horn that was packed with civet and sealed for transportation – and small pots containing musk pods. (One of these belongs to Roja Dove, who confirmed that, even well-wrapped, it drove his cat wild with interest.)
Perfumery sat somewhere between medicine and alchemy. Perfumes were sold in medicine bottles, the same packaging for everyone, whether you were a monarch or a mere wealthy person. (When it comes to monarchs, the Floris contributions are a triumph — on display is their original royal warrant and their ledger, with pages for ‘The King’ and ‘The Queen’.)
It took the marketing genius of François Coty to see the potential of perfume presentation. Rather than make use of a generic flacon, he asked a friendly neighbour to design a bottle for him. The friendly neighbour’s name was…Lalique. Coty was the first to put together perfume, bottle and box as a complete package, and we all know what that started.
Coty’s success was huge. The Henri Bendel store in New York was originally the Coty emporium, which gives an idea of how much they sold.
Coty defected to Baccarat at some point, and there is a huge Baccarat display housed in its own cabinet. Perfume, Roja Dove points out, was usually given to women by men, and the message was not always subtle. One Baccarat bottle housed a perfume called ‘Vierge Folle’ — foolish virgin. It was a best-seller.
As the twentieth century brought new opportunities for travel, perfume reflected the zeitgeist. Perfumes celebrating air-travel were produced, such as En Avion and Vol de Nuit. On the French luxury liner Normandie, ship-shaped silver bottles of Jean Patou’s Normandie were placed on the bureau of every lady travelling First Class. On display is bottle No. 1. It belongs to Roja Dove.
By the time we reach the 1920s, perfume was beginning to become the domain of couturiers, and this is reflected in the exhibits. On display, and coveted by every woman present, is the original Miss Dior dress, whose shape inspired the amphora shape of the Miss Dior perfume bottles. (Or vice-versa; I was too busy dribbling to pay attention to the words at this point.)
Worth’s perfumes from this era form a beautiful poem: Dans la Nuit (1924), Vers le Jour (1925), Sans Adieu (1929), Je Reviens (1932), and Vers Toi (1934). Roughly translated, this reads as ‘In the night, towards daylight, with no farewell, I will come back to you.’ Doesn’t that just melt you?
From a slightly later date, there is also a giant platform shoe by Ferragamo (“We had to ship it in from Shanghai,” says Emma Jayne.) The original (normal-sized) shoe is also on display, one of a pair worn by Judy Garland. It highlights something I hadn’t spotted before – that Ferragamo’s bottle designs always incorporate a platform.
The exhibition moves through the power perfumes of the 1980s, to the inexorable rise of the celebrity scents. Roja Dove points out the growing trend towards scent ‘collections’, such as Tom Ford’s Private Blends. (On display is the top half of a suit belonging to Mr. Ford. It’s very snazzy, but I felt that all those soft-porn ad campaigns had led me to expect slightly larger suiting. How short is TF?)
One ironic aspect of the exhibition is the lack of smell. Everything is behind / under glass. Much as you long to handle that tiny bottle of Chanel No. 46, to see if you can detect a few last molecules of scent, it’s purely a visual experience. To combat this, the exhibition provides some sniffing boxes on the walls, with four stoppered (and unstealable) vials per box (see below). This is useful, although I felt that there were not nearly enough of them, considering how many perfumes are on display and under discussion. By a happy chance, most of the perfumes featured in sniffy-vials are also on sale elsewhere in the store.
The exhibition includes several modern niche lines, such as Mona di Orio, Bond No. 9, Maison Francis Kurkdjian and Ormonde Jayne, most of them available elsewhere in the store. Surprisingly, there’s quite a lot about the rise of celebrity scents — you can sniff JLo’s Glow — although Harrods rarely carries these, as Roja Dove pointed out. (The recent Jennifer Aniston scent is a rare exception.) Obviously, space is limited and not everything can be included, but there is a sense that there has been a compromise involving expediency (brands who co-operated), commercial interests (houses whose goods Harrods sell), and taste (Roja must have had a heavy influence on the selection).
For bottle fans, the exhibition is swoonworthy. There are several displays showing the evolution of bottle design, such as those for Poison and J’adore (see above). The Shalimar bottles, including one of the originals, is stunning. (Did you know that the blue caps on the first bottles incorporated mercury? Apparently that idea didn’t last for long.) The latest design, by Jade Jagger, is a lot more attractive than I expected.
(I also learned that, for a while, Shalimar was known in Britain as No. 90, No.91, or No. 92. This was on account of there being a perfume house called Dubarry, in Hove, England, who made a hand-lotion called Shalimar. Guerlain wanted no confusion, and as those numbers were already stamped on all Shalimar boxes, the number became the name.)
Anyone interested in perfume adverts will have fun moving through the original modest drawings that told you nothing at all about the perfume, to the dayglo display for Giorgio.
There’s also an iPerfumer facility, hosted by the fragrance & flavor company Givaudan, which allows you to select from a database of 4000 ingredients to work out your perfect perfume.
This being Harrods, the catering was out of this world. We were greeted by gloved butlers holding silver trays of sparkling elderflower spritzers, each with a tropical blossom floating in the bubbles. Later there were fruit tartlets (‘fruit’ and ‘tartlets’ doesn’t do them justice), layered mousses scented with orange blossom and eaten via a squeezy pipette, and chocolate fondant with glazed cherries wrapped into dark chocolate casings. Grant Osborne of Basenotes and I made perfect pigs of ourselves, leaving with chocolate stains up to the hairline, I fear. Apparently these delicacies are available as part of the Perfume Diaries Tea, every day throughout the exhibition, so I feel that sampling them was a matter of duty. I mean, you wouldn’t want to pay good money for naff food, would you? (Pay anything. They’re worth it.)
The exhibition runs till October 2nd, which seems an agonisingly short time, considering how much time has been put into creating it all. It would be wonderful in a place like the V&A, or as a travelling exhibit sent round the world’s great department stores. Even the most scent-nerdy person would find plenty to learn that they didn’t already know, I’m sure.
Naturally, I played the Bill Bryson game where you pretend that you’re allowed to take a single item home with you. Having agonised over the Guerlain bottles, and the half-full bottle of original En Avion, I’m afraid I made a choice for which, as a perfume-lover, I should be thoroughly ashamed.
If I could smuggle home anything, it would be the Dior dress.
The Perfume Diaries exhibition runs till 2nd October, Harrods, fourth floor, admission free. You can see a list of associated events here.
Wow, Nina – thanks for the dream material! I don’t think I’ll make it to London, but the great description and pics make me feel as if I had been there (but not for the pastries, darn it. )
Dreamy is exactly the word – being surrounded by all those original bottles, still with juice in…was almost unbelievable. Apologies for being the one to get to taste the yummies, but I like to think that I took the calorie hit on behalf of all of us!
Such a lovely write up, thank you! I wish I could go to this exhibit. I love the Dior dress too. I’m not quite swanky enough for Dior dresses just yet, so I’ll have to settle for a similar dress from Modcloth or something.
Thanks! I wish my picture showed better detail, because the pattern is in fact the most exquisite embroidery. I dread to think how much it’s worth, but a long way beyond my means too, alas.
Love your red-eyed bunny, BTW.
If that latest lottery ticket comes through, I’ll so be there…but in case it doesn’t thanks for the lovely write-up. It’s nice to see perfume and its associated indistries being taken seriously!
Thanks, Maggiecat – and you’re in synch with Roja Dove, who pointed out that the perfume industry is of great commercial importance, because of all the associated industries that supply it. And if you won the lottery, what would be your first perfume treat to yourself?
Oh Nina – I’m gobsmacked by both your experience and your wonderful descriptions of everything! You did such a great job of walking us through the exhibit that I am literally drooling – both for the perfumes and the pastries!
Hey, I wish you’d all been there with me – wouldn’t a private NST party be fun?
Wonderful review, Nina! The exhibit had sounded wonderful before, full of extraordinary goodies, but now I’m dreaming of buying an airline ticket just to go and see it.
Wasn’t there a new fragrance associated with the exhibit, or am I imagining things? If there was, did you smell it?
How I wish I could have walked through with you. (I’ll distract security, you take the Miss Dior dress…)
Just checked – nope, I AM imagining things about a new scent. Huh. Don’t know where I got that.
OH, yes – now I remember. It was the Diaghilev thingy for the Ballets Russes celebration I was thinking of (I do still want to smell that).
Quick – you’ve got till October 2nd! The Diaghilev scent wasn’t in the exhibition, as far as I remember, but it is on sale upstairs in the Haute Parfumerie. It’s one of Roja Dove’s. Nice, very classic. Now, if you can distract security for just a second more, we can make off with the Dior dress AND the Fath de Fath…
Wow, this was so much fun to read, Nina! Thanks! And I’m with you, I think I would have taken home the Dior dress as well. 🙂
Oh, Jill, that dress! All the female guests just stood round the glass case making moaning sounds.
I can imagine!
Nina, I would have taken the dress, too. 🙂 Thanks for giving me a welcome distraction from the drudgery of work. This was so much fun to read.
You know, I think they should put extra security on that dress! It really is amazing that entry is free – I’d happily pay to see the exhibition. And if they’d only let a few perfumistas sleep in there overnight, with the alarms off…
That was great! I intend to go – don’t know when yet since I’m up to my eyes in work, but I can’t possibly miss this.
Bela, do go if you can! We’ll probably never get another chance to see all these wonders in one place. I’m hoping I can find time to go again before the exhibition ends.
Did you hear Roja Dove talk about it the other day on You & Yours (BBC Radio 4)? If you haven’t, you can listen to the podcast on the BBC website.
No, I didn’t. Thanks, Bela, I’ll have a listen later today!
This month-long event is truly once-in-a-lifetime for most of us. A great big thank you to Nina (and Robin) for making this report possible! I hung on every word! We get the feeling of being there and I hope there are more reports to come. Since London is so far away, I will have to content myself with my signed by Roja Dove Guerlain bottle book and Un Air de Samsara bottle. I would like to know if you saw a great number of people making purchases of perfume.
They did actually have a small area where they were selling the Guerlain specials and a few other lines, and there was someone making a purchase as our group arrived. To be honest, there was no suggestion of hard-sell; the fact that many of the niche lines featured are available in Harrods wasn’t mentioned. In fact, they didn’t even talk about the Haute Parfumerie upstairs, although I’m sure they could attract a lot of customers by advertising it. Very Harrods, very classy.
One word. Sublime. Two more words. Lucky Nina.
Lucky Nina is right! Sigh….
Lucky is the word, for sure! I wish I could have had you all with me. But then there wouldn’t have been enough jasmine-infused chocolate boxes to go round, which would have broken our hearts…
Thanks so much for this, Nina, I really enjoyed your lively write-up. And I’ll take this comment-enabled moment to say that I loved your other guest shopper post, too. They make me want to go shopping with you–and I have shopping!
Thanks (wobbly curtsey)! I do almost all my shopping online these days, apart from perfume and cosmetics, for which I love to shop. Little makes me happier than a Liberty bag full of smelly strips and a little Scented Something in a box!
This isn’t the Dior dress, but the lines are similar: http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1094-products-9754.php?page_id=850
You’re right – it’s the same amphora shape! I don’t know they (as in Vogue / Dior) get it to stay ‘inflated’ like that – is there some kind of net underskirt, do you think? How smart of you to find that!
There is almost certainly a net underskirt, sometimes called a crinoline. I’m just old enough to remember that most children’s party dresses of the era had them, and I think adult full skirts did too. You could starch the net or iron it with waxed paper to make it stiffer.
Wow, how that must have rustled! That’s something you don’t get so much from modern clothes – the sound. I remember my mother swishing and rustling, and the double click of her stilettos. It was a sensory treat that’s essentially gone.
Thank you for such a wonderful and detailed report – since I can’t be there I thoroughly enjoyed living vicariously through you!
Will there be a book/pamphlet covering the exhibition and all it’s glorious goodies?
There is a rather nice booklet detailing a lot of the houses featured, and some of the history, which was given out to us at the viewing. You’re right, though – a proper programme, such as you can buy at other exhibitions, would be a good idea.
Thank you Nina. Wish I was there…lucky you. Great writing. This should go on permanent display as a History of perfume post. 🙂
Thanks! Personally, I think the exhibition should be on permanent display. Perhaps in my house? Let the record show that I’m quite willing to clear a couple of rooms and do the dusting.
Isn’t it ironic that a perfume exhibition offers nothing to smell? It really should be the whole point… It must have been very frustrating indeed…
As an aside, the name “Vierge Folle” for a perfume was actually a reference to a poem by Arthur Rimbaud, itself a reference to the Parable of the Ten Virgins in Matthew’s Gospel. The fragrance was by Henriette Gabilla, a great friend of the writer Colette. Clients at the time would have understood the allusion.
Thanks, how interesting. Those Worths sound fascinating too. Way more poetic and original than ‘ Envy’ and ‘Guilty’ and – my personal horror – ‘Young Sexy Lovely’ – that we get today.
Chamade is my favourite fragrance name. And close to being my favourite fragrance too.
Oh, AnneMarie, I do agree. ‘Je Reviens’, ‘l’Air du Temps’, ‘n’Aimez que moi’…are all so much more poetic than, say ‘Bang’. (Which, incidentally, I rather like. A nice unisex scent for the vetiver-nervous.) I suppose ‘Success is a job in New York’ is a different kind of poetry?
You know, I can entirely understand that they couldn’t allow everyone to handle these precious bottles of vintage juice, but, you’re right, it’s frustrating to be able to see but not smell. I imagine that’s why they framed the exhibition as a discussion of perfume’s capacity to reflect the society of the time, rather than the evolution of scent development and design. I’ve been to other talks by Roja Dove, where he hands out cardboard strips scented with original Le De, or whatever, and that’s a more satisfying experience. The little stoppered bottle things are better than nothing – and they give people the opportunity to sniff, say, Ormonde Jayne Woman in a less sensually frenetic environment than the perfume hall, but it would have wonderful to be able to smell the Normandie or the Fath de Fath…torture!
Tsk, Roja didn’t mention the biblical allusion re. ‘Vierge Folle’, which would have blunted the edge of a good story. I kind of like his version, though – it makes me smile to think of the girl’s face when she was presented with her bottle…
Wow! Great article.
Thanks!
There is an article about the exhibition in today’s Standard: it says it is on until 28th October – seems it’s been extended.
That would be great,. Let’s hope it isn’t a misprint! I really think that this should be on for a lot more than a month.
Unfortunately, it was a misprint. The exhibition ends on 2nd October.
I , too, will fly right off to London once I win the Lotto!!! Why, oh, why is it taking soooo long??
Thanks for a wonderful article.
Such a sublime exhibition!! The heritage of perfuming is chronicled so beautifully. I’m surprised by the inclusion of Ormonde Jayne though….this brand is all about PR and packaging! The scents are common and ingredients sub- par. Tom Ford is by far the most exciting new brand