Middle Eastern perfumes are intense and often leave a trail behind the wearer that a well-trained, or even a lazy, dog can track for days. Hansel and Gretel should have ditched the breadcrumbs and worn an Arabian fragrance to find their way back home. (sniff, sniff…“We came THIS way!”) One either adores such perfumes, or shuns them. I adore them and that’s appropriate with the new La Via del Profumo Balsamo della Mecca because adoration was part of its creation: it was inspired by a trip perfumer Dominique Dubrana took to Mecca during Hajj.
Balsamo della Mecca contains natural notes of cistus labdanum, frankincense, benzoin, agarwood, tonka bean, tobacco, Indian tuberose and Damask rose. Balsamo della Mecca begins with rich, ‘leather-y’ labdanum and smoky frankincense. As the fragrance develops, interesting facets emerge — accords that smell of unsweetened cinnamon, “cola” and musky tobacco. The fragrance is dense and only lightens after hours of wear when the notes seem to “dry out” and turn powdery — a lovely phase when frankincense and benzoin/tonka predominate.
Don’t think of Balsamo della Mecca as a “Montale oud”-type fragrance — rich in oud, rose and woods. I don’t detect much tuberose and rose in Balsamo della Mecca (let’s just say those notes don’t smell like the tuberoses and roses I smell in my garden) and agarwood is “overcome” by labdanum and frankincense. Balsamo della Mecca is a great incense perfume, wearable by men and women.
I was surprised at all-natural Balsamo della Mecca’s lasting power: over 10 hours. And in case you’re “worried,” it is not a sillage-monster. Balsamo della Mecca is an excellent layering scent and adds depth (and a touch of incense) to floral perfumes (it digests citrus fragrances in minutes). Balsamo della Mecca layers beautifully with Eau d’Italie Paestum Rose, and combines with Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums Carnal Flower to produce a gorgeous scent, turning diva-ish Carnal Flower into a fragrance I can wear with pleasure for the first time (normally, Carnal Flower is too 'womanly' for me).
Balsamo della Mecca is available directly from La Via del Profumo; 16 (€34,17) or 50 (€91,67) ml Eau de Parfum.
Note: top right image is Mecca Masjid [cropped] via soham_pablo at flickr, some rights reserved; bottom center image of Cistus ladaniferus via Wikimedia Commons.
Mmmm. This sounds wonderful, Kevin. There’s always room for another incense frag in my collection. I’ve been in the midst of a love affair with Middle Eastern perfumes as of late. There’s at least two Ajmal fragrances I want to acquire, and I have a bottle of Rasasi’s Arba Wardat en route now. The latter’s so fantastic and intense I can still smell it on my shirt after it went through the wash. Not overpoweringly so, but just a gentle bit of fruity rose.
Ajmal Awsaaf is such a beautiful contrast of fragrance types (woody, fruity, musky but not in a typical fruity-floral-gourmand wood sort of way), while Areeq takes a bit of getting used to in the top notes, but settles into the most gorgeous musky/suede skin scent. I’m so hooked.
bwa-hahahaha, my work here is done!
AbScent: I have a bunch of Ajmal scents here…just haven’t gotten around to sniffing them yet!
Yep, you got me again, Daisy. I’m telling you they’ll see the blinding bling of your enabler badge from space.
Kevin, I do hope you like them. Areeq has great staying power and just melts into the sexiest skin scent. I’m really tempted to buy a bottle.
This sounds FABULOUS! I love the Hansel and Gretel analogy, had me snickering… and makes me want to try more Arabian perfumes, too. I’m not afraid of the big sillage monsters.
Morgan: this is nicely done…wish samples of Arabian perfumes were easier to come by.
You had me at “a lovely phase when frankincense and benzoin/tonka predominate.” I think that combination of words is my willpower’s Achilles heel.
I agree!!!! Another fragrance to sample!! Is the scent anything like papier d’arménie, SMN carta d’armenia or Guerlain’s BdA? Benzoin and incense… Hummm
Zazie: all the ones you mention have much more benzoin.
Ponderous…I love benzoin with just about anything!
While I do love some incense frags, frankincense specifically (esp as a featured note) can be a very difficult note for me. Might have something to do with that Catholic upbringing…or just the sensitive nose. As usual, though, K’s review – and the “cola” in particular – has me curious enough to seek out a sniff at some point…and dying for a vacation. WHY do your reviews always trigger the travel itch?
Ditto…I cannot handle Avignon. As promised, it’s the scent right out of the censer and I can’t wear it. Interesting review as always, Kevin. Hmmm…this plus Carnal Flower…hmmm…
Boojum: maybe MY travel bug is catching even thru the internet!
Aw, crap, I may need this…
Aw crap….me too. …..must. locate. sample.
Aw crap – same here.
Aw crap…. me fourple!
It seems like this company is Italian. There is just a middle eastern city in the name of the fragrance. Being inspired by the middle east doesnt really make it Middle Eastern in my opinion. Certainly not in the same sense as the previously mentioned Ajmal.
strictly Middle Eastern perfumes , like Ajmal and Rasasi often have a “rawness” to them that can be a little off-putting to western noses….I find I prefer the fragrances that straddle the gap….like it sounds Balsamo della Mecca does. I can’t wait to try it!
Rictor: I think it’s pretty clearly present that it’s just inspired by a trip to Mecca (my issues with the nebulous concept of “authenticity” notwithstanding). However, I also don’t purport to know or presume anything about Mr Dubrana’s heritage or origin; there are plenty of people in Europe with varying degrees of connection to or lineage from the Middle East.
Rictor: I don’t get wrapped up in geography when it comes to perfume and “inspiration.” One can certainly concoct a “Middle Eastern” style perfume in the middle of Paris, New York, Switzerland, with the right ingredients and “formula.” Do ingredients like “Indian tuberose” and Thai benzoin disqualify a fragrance from being described as “Middle Eastern”? Ajmal sources ingredients from around the world too.
Yes, well – this is going to be my next sample tester. Incense? Tunerose? Tobacco? Cistus? Dear Lord, it couldn’t be more my kind of frag……thanks Kevin, for introducing yet another range and scent I’ve not heard of.
Blimunda: you are welcome!
What’s this “too womanly” fragrance category you’re talking about, Mister K? You know we can manage to pull that stuff off… heh.
I’ll need to look at the Profumo sample program details again. Great job reviewing this so soon! Love it.
Can you compare this in any was to L’Air du Desert Marocain? Balsamo does sound fabulous, and I find L’Air to be “difficult” to such a degree that I can rarely wear it.
hmmmm I was just looking at their sample program….you know, if we ordered 4 of the same thing (since they have a 4 sample min.) then we could split it up just like those OJ travel sprays……me luvs some incense……
you, me, Miz Kitty…..of course I believe you can order as many as you want…. ok, I’m going to email you.
okay…more checking revealed that you have to order 4 DIFFERENT things…..but if we got a 50ml bottle ; it’d end up at about 2.86 USD per ml —I’m just thinking (and lemming)
You certainly have my attention.
I’d be willing to split a bottle if we had 5 to 10 people who wanted some. The bottles are 50ml.
So how about this: anyone interested in 5 to 10ml of Balsamo della Mecca, email me at Daisyloo82@gmail.com
If we get enough interest—I’ll order a bottle.
Or, Daisy, we could round up 25 people from this thread and each could get 2ml. MUWAHAHA. Our own NST sampling program!
Actually Joe, that sort of thing has crossed my mind before…..it’s actually a doable thing.
Oh, I’d be up for a split of this, for sure!
Hmmm, veddy interesting…
Why did I not know you had issues with l’Air? I thought I was the only one.
Me too! I wore it today and at times it felt like perfect comfort… and at times I felt a bit overwhelmed… I appreciate it a lot but I rarely wear it…
Haha… Boo (and Zazie), you can pretty much be assured that you’re NEVER the ONLY one having “issues” with a scent. Appreciate is the right word… L’Air is amazing, but can be almost suffocating in close quarters.
Joe: Balsamo della Mecca is much less sweet than the Tauer scent! And I just can’t wear Carnal Flower…I have a “thing” about tuberose…love it in the garden, in a vase…don’t like to wear it. I feel like I put on Jean Harlow’s feather-collared nightgown when I do wear it! HA!
Why don’t *I* ever get that effect with tuberose?? I’m not fond of tuberose perfumes either, but I guess for totally different reasons!
(Wonder where I can get one of those feather-trimmed nighties?)
As you might guess, I am a Tuberose Ho as well as a Rose Ho.
Where can you order Ajmal or other Middle Eastern perfumes? I had a peek at the Ajmal site but it only lists dealers in the Middle East.
I have a feeling that if I get started with them, the Middle Eastern perfumes will take over – but oh, how sweet the surrender, huh?
Hi Kriz, there’s an ebay store called Yemen shop, run by a very nice young guy in ….you guessed it: Yemen! He carries loads of Ajmal fragrances and some Al-Rehab……just be aware that shipping from that part of the world can be a little sloooooow. I’ve gotten maybe 5 bottles from him.
I love that you have connections in Yemen.
..I buy from Borkan too! He sent me a free 2ml roll-on sample of an Al-Rehad with a Montale I bought…this is what started the obsession : )
Thank you for the fenzy inducing review Kevin!
*frenzy* [I have to start proofreading my comments.]
The “fenzy” is when we all have to fend each other off in a frenzy to get to a bottle of something. So yes, we’re all in a fenzy.
Oh, so I was right after all! Now I don’t feel like such a dork.
Kevin, why do you hate my wallet so?
Jirish: I don’t hate it; it told me it needed to lose a few “pounds” so…
yeah, well mine is skinny enough already and could actually use a few extra “pounds”
LOL –ah well, I forgive you. Thanks for putting a whole new house on my radar!
Daisy: you’re welcome…and the Italian economy is celebrating your arrival.
oooo, I just bet they are!
In that case, perhaps you should try to find some Greek fragrances to review…
Wonderful review as always Kevin. I always look forward to my little snigger that I know I’ll find buried within. Hansel and Gretel indeed….
Must. Have. This.
I sense an unsniffed purchase approaching. I’m going to step away from the computer for a few hours….
**whispering** —we’re filling a split……
(blushing) I’m a split virgin. but I’d like to change that…
Are there any samples or decants left? Pls email me at cazaubon at qualcomm.com if there are, thanks!!
Yikes, I gotta try this , seriously… SWOON!
I’m giving away a sample of this on my blog in case anyone wants a sniff !
Great review Kevin …
Late to this, Kevin, but overjoyed at the sound of this (you persuasive man, you) and hope Daisy can wrangle a posse for a split. I’m in.