Serge Lutens will launch L'Eau Serge Lutens, a new unisex fragrance, in March. The clean scent is meant to appeal to a wider audience than the prior scents in the line, and to do well in the Japanese market, where lighter, cleaner fragrances are preferred. Per Lutens, L'Eau Serge Lutens...
...expresses a longing for cleanliness and a reaction against society’s compulsion to fill the air with artificial scents.
L'Eau Serge Lutens is meant to duplicate "the wonderfully clean feeling that you get after a bath and slipping into freshly washed clothes".
L'Eau Serge Lutens will be available in 100 ml, 100€. (quotes via cosmeticsinternational, additional information via cosmeticnews, facebook)
Update: see a review of L'Eau Serge Lutens.
Holy sell out Batman! Ok, maybe I’m wrong and it’ll be “wonderfully clean” and yet somehow edgy and new and full of Serge-ness….but I’m afraid it ‘sounds’ as though Uncle Serge has bowed down to the Marketing Gods….
OMG – say it ain’t so, Serge. I still can’t figure out why I need to shell out 100 euros to smell like I do anyway – that’s my problem with all of the “clean” smells. I already smell like showered skin and fabric softener.
I seriously doubt edgy…they want it to sell in Japan. Can newly washed skin smell “edgy” anyway? I don’t think so.
Depends on what you washed it with.
Ha! true. I just feel somehow “disappointed” even though I know that even niche brands need money to keep the boat afloat. sigh….
I’m disappointed, too. A clean fresh scent is the complete antithesis of everything we think of as Lutens. It’s as if Britney Spears came out with a difficult, moody animalic chypre. Although come to think of it, that might be a little more appropriate than all those interchangeable things launched under her name. (I’d try it.)
But I had to laugh at the description of the scent as a “reaction against society’s compulsion to fill the air with artificial scents,” because you know that the scent is going to be at least ninety per cent synthetics and probably more.
Wow, very interesting that he’s decided to branch into the Asian market. The bottle totally reminds me of Shiseido.
That was exactly the term that came to my mind, too. However… I don’t get “weird and edgy” from his other stuff anyway, I get sticky sweet mess, so…eh.
Earlier this year an unrefutable source (and I do mean unrefutable) told me that there was a change in management happening in SL. Ever since then I’ve been quite interested in what the brand would do next. Aha, I’m starting to see what’s in the card.
To be honest though expanding into the classic Japanese luxury market sounds like a logical move it’s somewhat risky because the Japanese luxury market is shrinking as we speak–many brands, in fact, are relying on the gift with purchase strategy as well. Plus the distribution system in Japan is quite regionalized and complexly layered–quite a ballsy move IMHO.
I don’t see SL offering this in editions smaller than 100 mL because either the perceived price would be too low for the chosen demographic or SL would have to start raising prices, neither of which would be favorable. The psychological threshold (especially among Japanese consumers) as a whole is quite a delicate issue.
Oh, silly me–SL would rely on the existing Shiseido distribution, product development, and marketing to target the Japanese consumers. (There, that’s replying first thing in the morning without my coffee!) :-p
Yes, according to Cosmetic News it will be in 600 doors in Japan, which is quite a lot, and far more than they ever do for the regular SL line.
I wish Serge luck as he steps out of his “norm” and into the light of a far broader market. I respect his line as it’s comprised of complex fragrances that are unique and not readily found elsewhere, although.. they can be challenging to wear, at least for me. While in some aspects it’s disappointing to see him cave into the routine market, it’s all about the mighty dollar and consumer appeal. While Nuit De Cellophane generally received poor reviews and was far removed from a ‘typical’ expected Lutens creation, I liked it alot and actually bought it. Let’s raise our bell jars to Serge and wish him the best but at the same time hope that he never completely removes himself from his more deeper and mysterious creative side.
Hey. Even if he never makes another fragrance, his place in the history books is secure. He can do what he likes — let him make a pinkified bubblegum fruity floral if he wants to.
I’m pretty sure that a Serge Lutens bubblegum fruity floral is one of the signs of the apocalypse.
Unless it’s a bubblegum fruity floral with notes of apocalypse! How about fruity floral with hints of sulfur and burning coals?
I might buy that one!
I can picture THAT flanker right now wedged in between the newest of Paris Hilton and Brittney Spears. LOL
Hey, the staff’s gotta eat. I hope the targeted market buys it and doesn’t just “step out of the shower and put on freshly laundered clothes.” Sigh…
Love that bottle – it’s more like the Shiseido Eudermine bottle, which I have been in loev with for years (wish this one were that beautiful red though).
Yes!! I want that bottle too (the red one).
i think his Clair de Musc smells clean enough, no?
You would think!
I have yet to try this one, I take it that it’s as tame and nondescript as Nuit De Cellphane then?
I would say tamer.
That’s what I thought. No mention of the notes yet, but as soon as someone says ‘fresh from the bath’ I think clean white musk, some ambrette?
And, I actually like to fill the air around me with artificial scents – some purchased for lots of money from yours truly, Mr. Lutens.
Tsk, ad copy!
Even Serge has to pay his bills. After all,his line is now discounted at parfum1!
i wonder why this one doesnt come in the 50 ml size?
I was wondering the same thing. Perhaps because it’s “light”, one will have to spray more–or maybe it’s just a splash without the extra spray nozzle?
No, I think this one is only in spray (might be his first).
That’s interesting…do you think the fragrance may be more like an eau de toilette? In any event, the bottle is really nice.
I am assuming it’s an EdT, but I don’t know. Cosmeticnews says it is airy but long lasting.
*sniff* I know as an artist we need to stretch our wings but… But… Prism covered my feelings very well with bringing up Clair de Musc. I hope this doesn’t mean there’s a Rahat Loukoum Eau Fraiche (unless you count Louve) or Daim Blond Sparkling in the future.
I wouldn’t expect classic SL frags to sell well in Asia, but that’s like expecting Angel and its flankers to be soft and subtle. I just don’t think bright and sunny when I think SL, and that’s okay with me. I love the complexity, and if I want to smell like I’ve just stepped from the shower, there’s a million options out there to help me do so that likely will cost much less.
Perfume sales are down elsewhere. Asia is a huge market…
MKK Eau d’Ete??
Well, I think is soon to judge this fragrance only by what`s going to express. Epsecially because you can do interesting and clean fragrances, only depends of the approach. See, for example, Thierry Mugler Cologne.
Something I cannot understand is if every blog and experienced perfumista, by what i`ve been reading, is complaining about the new fragrances tha lutens do, complaining that he always stick to the same theme, why are people complaining when he goes to another direction tottaly different? To me it`s like some persons are never satisfied.
I am not complaining, personally, but I guess people like to think there are a few brands that aren’t just in it for the $, and I sympathize with that. It would be nice.
By this first entry, it`s impossible to know if Lutens are just in for $, only reaching another group. I want to smell it first to see if is interesting or not, and then i`ll judge
It also occured to me this moment that maybe Shiseido is demanding this from Lutens. I just don`t hope that he stop with the oriental complex theme
I totally agree.
It is really too soon to judge.
there are very few but nevertheless beautiful “clean scents” stepping out the usual paths.
I think Acqua di Melograno from SMN and, in a minor way, Beige from Chanel.
Clean does not = boring.
It often does, but I liked some of SL s”simpler” scents already, like fleur d’oranger, and I’m willing to give him a chance.
What a boredom if we were always forced to stick to a stereotype!!!!
I’m happy to see him go in a new direction. I feel smothered by many of the Lutens scents. Of my favorites – Bois de Violette, 5’OClock au Gingembre, and Nuits de Cellophane, only one of those is favored by most Lutens fans.
I would say that almost his whole range is dark and heavy. In contrast, I like that the Mugler line which leans heavy and sweet includes Cologne, and Frederick Malle explores many different styles. So branching out is no bad thing.
I’m happy to see any good perfumer try something different, and Serge is pretty good, but I do tire of perfumes that aim to corner the Asian market. However, wasn’t Kenzo Flower created with that in mind? I wore that all over China and people were constantly saying how good I smelled. I know not everyone is a fan, but I really enjoyed it, and it seemed to be a more Asian-oriented scent.
Anyway, I love me some Lutens, and I can always wedge in one more of those “I want to smell good but not so good that I start chewing my own neck” fragrances into my collection.
Hmmm. I can get clean pretty cheaply (the aforementioned Thierry Mugler cologne, for one) so seriously doubt I would pay SL prices for it. But we’ll see!
So far, I have not loved a single Serge, but I think he’s an artist. It may be he feels that he’s thoroughly explored the ground he’s been covering and wants to move on – or maybe he’s thinking, “You want clean and fresh? I’LL give you the ultimate in clean and fresh!” Don’t know. But I certainly don’t feel like he has to make fragrances just to please me, or he’s sold out.
(No, I lie: I did love La Myrrhe, although it’s a little difficult to wear and I have to be in a certain emotional mood. )
I’ve like a lot of his work, but it makes me wish that I worked in a more exotic field (ie NOT an office cubicle) so that I could strut around wearing them.
Alas, I’m a soft musc by day and an Epic Woman by night.
Andrea: That’s interesting. I work in an open cubicle and I know what you mean, but I feel like I can get away with a discreet spritz of Epic Woman or Lutens or almost anything I want. Just a bit in the neck hollow or “décolleté” or whatever you want to call it.
Certainly I understand everyone’s concern that Mr. Lutens MAY be “selling out” , but if the profits from a mass-market, Asian-appealing fragrance affords his House to create even MORE interesting and “darker” creations later, then more power to the clean-smelling masses. Sometimes an artist has to appeal to the lowest common denominator in order to raise the funds necessary to create a product that, although may be a “work of art”, definitely won’t sell as well.
Oh…. I do hope this is not one of those companies that have been secretly sold to a conglomerate going after mass market and big profit.
I can already see with dread the day of *Eau de Blah* by “Serge Lutens”, a subtle blend of raspberry, melon, aquatic nuances, ozone and…… pink pepper.
Sold in every Walmart!
LOL! I don’t think so.
I really don’t have a problem with this, even if I may not to rush out to buy it myself. Though who knows, I’ll be curious to see the notes and at least sample it. Plenty of the Kenzos are appealing with perhaps similar concepts… though maybe the point is one doesn’t buy SL hoping it’s interchangeable with a Kenzo?
Not every Lutens is MKK or Serge Noire — many are perfectly respectable and somewhat low-key scents, and certainly not all “edgy” by any means… in my opinion. I wouldn’t fear an Escada-Walmartization.
I don’t have any problem with it either, and agree that not every SL scent is a masterpiece.
Oh no!!! BOOOOOOOO!
Ah well…as people point out above, somebody’s got to pay the bills.
I’ve just been to Oxford Street. My wish for 2010 is this: please, please, please everyone wear L’Eau Serge Lutens as soon as it’s out! I have been asphyxiated by all manners of repellent, pungent fruity florals. I cannot stand it!
LOL! I can agree with that.
OK don’t crucify me (holding hands up and looking at the floor) but I have struggled with the Serge Lutens offerings I have tried, which aren’t that many as it’s not widely available in Adelaide, so I am looking forward for something a bit more ‘mainstream’ or what I perceive to be ‘mainstream’ that I could potentially fall in love with!
Oh, I don’t think everybody has to like them…but if you’re after clean, there’s already plenty on the market to please you!
OK this is going to sound waaaaay irrational – but I’m after a Serge Lutens that I love enough to buy! It’s like I’ve got a checklist and I want to tick off every brand and perfumer out there by buying one thing each from them… sad isn’t it? A friend once called me obsessive compulsive which may not be far off the mark!
LOL…ok, then hope you will love this one!
I’ve heard this being refered as the “Bingo Card” approach to life.
This might do extremely well and appeal to larger masses after all. I wonder how it will compare to Clair de Musc? I find that smells shower fresh!
And I think CdM sells just fine? I’ve heard that, anyway.
Oh, I meant a fragrance comparison as opposed to a sales one. Sorry for being unclear
Ack…I think you were perfectly clear, and now it’s the next day and I have no idea why I said that!
If this turns out being aquatic or ozonic I’m going to scream! I already want it because of that bottle, though.
It’s a darned nice bottle.
Oh my, the world must be coming to an end – 2012 by the Mayan calender, 2010 by the SL one!
No no…. SL L’eau is just one of the early horseman…..(or is it brimstone??)
We’re still on for 2012!
That way it gives me 2 full years to max out all my credit cards, then…… BING BANG: END OF THE WORLD! No bills to pay!!!
Maybe if SL goes to the Dark Side (ie: commercial), they will start selling Iris Silver Mist in the US and it will be at a store where I can get a whiff. I am dying to sniff that one. Almost typed “Irish Silver Mist” … could be either Scotch or deodorant…
Hey, I could live with that! ISM really ought to have made it to the export line by now.
Uncle Lutens! Pls dont ever become commercial. I don’t know what to say… What about the true meaning of the word “niche”?
I long ago gave up that meaning of niche, though…too many “niche” lines that don’t fit. To me, niche is simply a matter of distribution channels.
Sounds Decidedly EDGY for Serge who has made a habit of going against convention, this for him IS EDGY! and there is nothing wrong with wanting to create something fresh clean and modern, knowing Monsieur Lutens Penchant for Subversion, i am sure it’s not going to be the Leger, Frais, Propre fragrance of insignificance that it seems many here think it will be! I am sure it will be very Wearable, But with a twist of the Subversive as he is always prone to do! I am for one glad to hear this and eagerly await ordering myself a bottle in Mars! C’est Magnfique!
LOL…you’re right, for him this is edgy. Good way of looking at it!
Oh I am really curious abou tit, and do not forget it is SL: There will be something weird about it, I tell you.
Or maybe it is a mainstream one like Cellophane? It’s crsisi, he has to make somtehing that appeals to more people then us experts.
I have been recently on the SL counter and I am really fascinated by his craft. But I’d rather wear something “wearable” even if it is boring.
He does make some lovely scents, but I don’t think all of them are weird…and kind of doubt this one will be! If it was, I don’t think they’d be planning to distribute it so widely.
Like everyone else, I am very curious about L’Eau Serge Lutens. However, based on what’s been going on with this house, especially over the last 4-5 years, I’m not getting my hopes up too high.
Most of the releases since 2005/6 have been rather disappointing and, if one is prepared to observe, catering more towards the mass market (especially in the export line). Couple this with the reformulations of a good number of his ‘classics’ (Chergui, Chene, Arabie, Ambre Sultan, Fumerie Turque, Feminite du Bois, the Bois series…) I’m even more concerned, then before, about the future of this house.
Yes, every company has bills to pay but Serge Lutens is more widely known to the perfume buying public than it was five, or even ten, years ago. Increased exposure… more public interest… increased distribution, due to increasing demand… more sales… Shiseido already has a very strong presence in the Asian perfume market, so this new direction doesn’t make any logical sense apart from what other perfume houses are currently guilty of: greed.
And to think that Serge Lutens was my favourite perfume house three years ago…
He does seem to be working mostly in a more pared down aesthetic the past few years. Hard to tell if that’s commercially motivated or not, although L’Eau Serge Lutens certainly looks that way.
My prediction is that this is going to be a knock-off of IUNX Eau Blanche. Just a hunch – but a very strong one….
Trying to remember if I tried that one…will have to look at my notes. But hard to see how you can do clean in any original way. Maybe he’ll surprise me.
I just received my sample from Palais Royal today…
it’s nothing like any other Lutens I own…..
Since I’m not so good with notes, let me just say that the closest comparison I can draw is MAC Turquatic….they smell so similar, with more complexity on Lutens’ side…
It’s sparkling clean, slightly musky with a wee bit of floral and citrus, I guess
The card that came with the sample stated that it will be available for purchase at Palais Royal on Feb 1st and on Lutens’site on Feb 15th…..price is 100 euros for 100 ml EDP
Many thanks for the info! It does not sound like something I’ll love but looking forward to trying it.
Serge Lutens’ Chypre Rouge was my first foray into niche fragrances, so i get excited when I know that he’ll be releasing something new!!! I Smelled this at barney’s the other day… i found it to be a hybrid of Narciso Rodriguez Essence’s burst of freshness and cleanliness (before the aldehydes, a note that I usually like, come in and swift kick you) and Hermes eau de gentiane blanche , but still holding its own….. I rather liked it and maybe i’ll invest in a bottle for the summer. It’s a different direction for Serge and Sheldrake, but i think the risk just may pay off, i just hope this wont be a changing of the tides for the brand…..
I think that’s just the thing…people aren’t accustomed to saying what other perfumes SL efforts smell like! But at this point, it’s hard to do clean without being derivative.
Absolutely…… it should be the other way around!!!! But, it is what it is i guess, and i liked it for what it was…. I really do hope this is a one-off though, Serge can’t do too much with this, it’ll end up being an expensive CLEAN line of fragrances…..
I hope so too.