Perfume fanatics are seldom short on strong opinions. When confronted with a clean, sweet musk or a fruity floral, your average fragrance blog regular will enumerate the many reasons why such a scent could actually be considered an act of evil — and yet I still sense a frustration in between the lines of many comments, as if the writer would like to communicate entirely in caps, an Owen Meany of smell. When this same average commenter is confronted with a new cologne, however, there is an odd tendency to damn with faint praise. Some fragrance freaks seem to consider lighter, fresher, more straight-forward fragrances to be a little too easy. Summer weather sometimes forces us to resort to tonics, you see; as a perfumista, one should not publicly admit to wearing cologne without repeatedly referencing high temperatures or similar trying circumstances. Colognes are admired primarily for their effectiveness, rather than their beauty.
I do not deny a susceptibility to this type of thinking. Even though most of my favorite fragrances sit in the "Fresh" and "Crisp" categories of Michael Edward's scent classification system, I wince when a counter assistant descends on my spritzing and asks: "So, you're looking for something fresh?" It scandalizes me that this person does not instantly recognize I am a woman of rare taste and knowledge, a connoisseur not prone to indulge in whatever plebeian Eau de Calone he or she is thinking about selling me. Sometimes I haughtily report that I wear Dior Eau Fraîche or Eau de Guerlain, but department store salespeople most often cheerfully fail this appalling, snobbish test by offering me a sample of their summer flanker. I have a strong opinion on this flanker, which I keep to myself.
Occasionally you encounter a related, but less ridiculous approach to fresh fragrances, usually in a comment by someone whose online perfume mania is relatively new. This commenter gently puzzles that s/he doesn't "get" citrus fragrances. I remember feeling similarly when I started collecting niche samples and decants. Sampling leathers, incenses, chypres and synthetic, abstract wonders, I would sometimes add a cologne into the mix and find it wasn't lush enough, weird enough, long-lasting enough. Luckily, once I had gorged myself on the rich and strange, the need for a ray of scented sunshine returned. While I hope I can now start to admit my love for honest, simple, profound refreshment, I have decided to share with you a list of colognes* that need "getting". You never know when the weather might be unseasonably hot.
Annick Goutal Eau de Monsieur: The very well-executed and lasting citrus-oakmoss structure here is deliciously embellished with a dusty, almost raspy, savory-sweet immortelle. This is probably my favorite Annick Goutal fragrance and along with the feminine standouts from the brand, Passion and Heure Exquise, Eau de Monsieur makes clear what this line does best: relaxed, warm, natural-smelling scents with texturizing twists.
Rochas Eau de Rochas: I once read that this is a very popular scent with teenage girls in France. While I can't remember where I encountered this fact and have no way of verifying the truth of it, this just feels right to me. The balance of crisp, cheerfully forthright citrus and smoky, sensual patchouli creates an ageless quality that I imagine would suit young women in that curious stage of development which seems marked by silent, heavy-lidded, blasé self-confidence. Sometimes Eau de Rochas feels as much like a mood as a fragrance. Highly recommended for men as well as women, the world over.
Humiecki & Graef Eau Radieuse: Like many of you, I got a laugh out of the over-the-top advertising copy from this German line. What is surprising is how perfumer Christophe Laudamiel has extended and brightened my laughter with Eau Radieuse. Humiecki & Graef calls it a "futuristic remake of an Eau de Cologne", a scent that will transport you to "a wondrous place on an unknown planet". For once, I can only applaud the accuracy of such a description. Even the note list — green banana, mandarin peel, lemon, Italian mint, rhubarb juice and bamboo sap accord — inspires an innocent delight in me. The talc-y fresh dry-down that Kevin noted in his review is extraordinary. I recently applied Eau Radieuse before a BBQ dinner, which I followed with four hours of sweaty, overcrowded rock concerting — and the scent lasted a lot better than I did. For a similarly spirited fragrance that is less otherworldly (and less expensive), you could try the nuclear Irish Spring of Thierry Mugler's Cologne.
Christian Dior Escale à Portofino: The most traditional and affordable cologne on my list, this is still likely to exceed the expectations of anyone who has been following the last few years of mainstream perfumery. Quiet, appetizing and very waxy, it reminds you that peel, zest and leaves are important parts of the citrus story. Portofino should appeal to fans of the re-released and extravagantly misnamed Extravagance d'Amarige (Givenchy).
DKNY Women: Bright, powdery and as head-clearing as ginger beer, DKNY Women felt to me like another of Donna Karan's scents doomed to noble commercial failure. For a while, it seemed to be available exclusively at the duty-free store. Last month I found it at a local perfume shop that specializes in the discontinued and discounted. The knowledgeable sales assistant there had just sent a customer away with a bottle and told me it was one of their best sellers. "It's unique," he said. "It's clean without reminding you of soap. People come across town looking for it." Maybe it should be added to Donna Karan's fabulous new collection of re-released fragrances.
* With this term, I am referring very generally to both scents in Eau de Cologne concentration and those Eaux de Toilette that use traditional cologne materials.
Note: image is spray-on cologne from a truck stop restroom in Gustine, CA [cropped] by graymalkn at flickr; some rights reserved.
DKNY Women does not work at all for me, though I like several others in the line. That one is evil grapefuit! Love Eau de Guerlain and some of the Acqua di Parma Colonia range.
It is the sort of thing that works for you or doesn’t, isn’t it? Abstract perfumes are often like that, I think. The Acqua di Parmas are great…
Oh I’ve been wanting to sample Donna Karan Woman for a while now – thanks for the reminder. I *love* ginger beer!
The Eau Radieuse sounds fantastic.
One very inspring cologne-type scent I have been rocking this past week (from a sample) is Splash Forte by IUNX. Think CdG parfum, with a little of the medicinal edginess removed and sheerer. Cloves and a cold shower. Bracing!
oh that’s right…just create another lemming for me, just like that! …adding to list……cloves and a cold shower….
It’s funny: the note list for Escale a Portofino includes something described as “cold spices”. I have no idea what they meant by this, but chilly cloves sounds wonderful.
One of my favourite things on earth is a Pim’s & Ginger (Pim’s gin, lemonade, ginger beer, mint and a cucumber spear) so we must be kindred spirits.
Splash Forte! I keep meaning to try that. I love March’s description on Posse, something like “high-end cinnamon mouth wash”.
♥♥ Pim’s & Ginger!! Hmm, wonder if you can splash it on…??? 😉
Well…. it’s a little sticky, but the cat or dog, could help you take care of that. 🙂
My favorite light cologne is from Dior – Cologne Blanche. Is a soft citrusy white flowers scent, that is perfect for those days when it’s so hot that you just wanna a faint trail of fragrance.
Another one from Dior that I love is Dior Homme Cologne. On me, the iris and it’s citrusy opening is sparkling and comfort in a summer day. Love it.
So interesting – does the Dior Homme have “Cologne” written on the bottle? I tried a lighter Dior Homme version with Limited (or Special) Edition written on the bottle several weekends ago and it was delicious. Guessing this must be the Cologne: it was fruitier and entirely relaxed, a rolled-up shirt sleeve sort of fragrance. The price was excellent, too – should have bought it! Haven’t compared the Cologne Blanche next to Portofino yet….
Hello, if I may chime in: I would say Cologne Blanche does not really fal into EdC category. I’d say in this case the ‘cologne’ is just a name. I agree though, it’s wonderful… About the DH flankers, sounds interesting. I only smelled the Sport version which is disgusting. The ginger turns the fruity Iris into something horrible garbagey, to my nose. The Cologne I still have to try.
Lars, they are, in fact, EdC. I agree that Bois d’Argent doesn’t have a pronounced cologne aspect, but to me Cologne Blanche is a perfect interpretation of a citrus cologne infused with light white flowers. It so soft that is perfect for those hot days.
I hated DH Sport too. On my skin, it revelead a cheap ginger soap aspect that I didn’t like it at all.
Lars, the Cologne I apparently tried was very different from the Sport version, and much closer to the original. It is like DH with some of the cool weightlessness removed – a warmer, more golden version.
Wow, sounds interesting! Dunno why I kinda gave Dior H a cold shoulder, and so the versions as well (Sport I found as test strip in a magazine). Probably cause you see it everywhere… I know that the original is very good though.
Rick, I must remember it wrong then… I thought of it as something musky and very transparent, but without citrus. I will try it again, soon! Bois d’A I found too foody, though interesting. Eau Noir was my favourite. Never bought any (yet) though.
Erin, the cologne version is this one:
http://www.fragrantica.com/images/perfume/nd.1770.jpg
Yes, is a relaxed scent, although it retains the exquisite aspect of Dior Homme.
i get pure ginger juice from DH Cologne…
You are probably talking about the DH Sport, which is very gingery. The Cologne emphasizes a note somewhere in between apple and apricot.
Another Cologne Blanche fan here…
I like it very much, too, though Eau Noire is my gave from the set, and indeed, a favorite masculine in general. I’m a sucker for immortelle, apparently.
That was supposed to say “fave”, of course.
“Eau de Calone” – I love it! And thanks for the Owen Meany reference; I recently reread the book and it is a marvel.
And here is where I admit that I don’t “get” cologne, either. I have such a strong preference for girly-floofy scents that I just don’t see the need for me to own a cologne. On hot days, I could wear a very light spritz of Jardin sur le Nil, or one of the Paris springtime LEs, or Kenzo Parfum d’Ete. Ivoire? Chanel No. 19? Le Temps d’une Fete? Yep to all of those.
well hold on to your floofy-floral, girly hat cuz I’m gonna send you citrusy samples! As it turns out; I’m a citrus ho in the summer. (and here you thought I was just an incense ho )
I think we’re Frag Hos!
I do like citrus – it just seems that an awful lot of citrusy things turn out smelling masculine on me, and I Just Find That Weird. Somebody else can wear the androgynous stuff, it probably smells great on the rest of you.
You know, I’ve never smelled 4711 – maybe I should start there.
I don’t do well w/the more masculine unisex stuff either, and 4711 is great. A friend brought some back for me from Germany about 20 yrs ago, so I didn’t even know until recently that it wasn’t *intended* for women. AND, it’s super cheap. Definitely give it a shot.
When I was quite young (9 or 10 perhaps) a friend of my parents brought 4711 soaps back from a trip to Europe….my anti-perfume mother gave them to me….IT WAS A BOX OF TREASURE! I remember being thrilled with these 3 bars of soap, but yet I cannot remember at all what they smelled like…guess I better look for some 4711 too….
It’s fun to remember how precious things like soaps, bath salts, etc. seemed when you were a child. Little trinkets like marbles can seem like the crown jewels…
I’ve loved 4711 my whole life, I think, and bought a giant bottle at discount last summer. When I lived in hotter climes I kept it in the fridge.
I think Angela keeps her Eau de Rochas in the fridge. A decant from her started my crush on the scent.
You could just view 4711 as medicine, which is inherently unisex. Most of us do….
A Girl for all Seasons….
Yup, I’m a citrus ho, too. I like Carthusia Mediterraneo and an old L’Occitane, Eau de Cedrat (discontinued), for when I know I’m going to be walking around in 95-degree heat (I couldn’t help myself with the excuses, Erin).
You’re almost asking for forgiveness, which means you’re on the road to recovery 🙂
Thinking about A Prayer for Owen Meany recently, I can see what people mean about the book being “gimmicky”. But there is no one like Irving for a set piece: the Christmas pageant scene has got to be one of the funniest moments in contemporary lit. Overall, I prefer The Cider House Rules, but I remember crying at that final “O God – please give him back! I shall keep asking you.”
Le Temps d’une Fete? Wearing it today! Great spring/summer scent…
No doubt: John Irving Is a Literary Genius. He goes right for the gut every time, and I gotta admire that. I think my favorite Irving is still WATGarp (Cider House made me depressed). It’s amazing how each one of his novels is this huge smorgasbord, with everything from humor to disgust to tenderness included. Love him.
Irving used to live half the year in Toronto, though I don’t know if he still does. He was a passionate admirer of our own Canadian smorgasbord writer, Roberston Davies (he delivered a eulogy at Davies’ funeral, I believe). The baseball that kills Johnny Wheelwright’s mother is a nod to the thrown stone at the heart of Davies’ famous “Fifth Business” (and Deptford trilogy).
I love Eau de Monsieur. I think it’s probably my favourite of the
“masculine” Goutals. It’s such a pity that it has been discontinued.
I wasn’t entirley sure it *was* discontinued. Sad!
Well I have no official information; it just does not seem to be sold anymore. I think I read on Basenotes that you still get some from a semi- secret supply in one of the Goutal shops in Paris. ( Like Eau du Fier)
It is such a pity, as it is such a beautiful cologne.
I bought mine from the discount/discontinued shop I mentioned in the DKNY Women list entry. I bought a 40 ml, but perhaps I should go back and get some more before I need to get a replacement in Paris!
Nice list Erin….I for one, recognized quite readily that you are woman of rare taste and knowledge….and would like to commend you for your herculean control in not slapping the SA silly…a fresh flanker, indeed. (snicker)
H&G Eau Radieuse sounds so interesting I’ll have to look around TPC for a sample…. and ‘ginger beer’ I could go for that too! Today, however, is all about Escale a Portofino —finally got my bottle yesterday and I don’t care if it’s cold and damp, it’s the SOTD !!! I love the citrusy zing of lemon rind ! And I’ll tell you something else: it mixes very well with the creamy/nutty scent of the whipped shea butter I put on after my shower….I’m just going to sit here with my nose attached to my arm for a while. ( not that that’s unusual in any way….)
I’m jealous…it was love for me on paper, and for about 30 seconds on skin. Then it just went all flat. 🙁 Maybe if I were to apply it to my clothing instead….? Hmm. Loved the bottle. 😀 But no, I’ll probably save my pennies for something that works better w/my chemistry.
aww Boo, sorry it fell flat on you. It’s so zesty, although in the dry down, I get a little bit of “Mr. Clean lemon scented” too so I’m not opposed to layering it a bit with other things. Also, since I usually wear cotton sweaters or teeshirts (no fancy silks or cashmere) I go ahead and give myself an “arm’s reach ” spritz or two so my clothing holds the scent as well. I think this summer when (if) it gets hot, this is going to be a favorite.
I agree that the clothing spritz is a valuable summer strategy.
which is why I absolutely HATE it when they add artificial coloring to perfumes! Any perfume sprayed too closely can leave you with an unsightly splotch dead center on the shirt but if it’s got dye, you’re almost sure to leave speckles at least.
It does quietten quickly, with the galbanum crispness departing for good and the caraway taking a while to return. I like the waxy heart, but it is definitely a skin scent by fifteen minutes in…
Unfortunately, Eau Radiuese is not available in N.A. until later in 2009, and is not even at TPC. I got my sizable samples – a little goes a long way – from First in Fragrance in Germany. I must say the Euro price is painful, but their customer service and shipping speed is the best! (Unaffiliated.) In my experience, SAs try their best to find something for you. They just always use the words “fresh” and “soft”, as if you would like anything that could be covered by those descriptors.
Ooo, shea butter with Portofino. A must-try…
You know our Daisy goes to the ends of the earth to sample something, though… especially if you tell her it’s a magnificent must try. [[:::cackles::::]]
HEY! 3 or 4 states closer and SLAP!! right upside the head.
oh wait, I should be nicer….I was hoping for some Terre d’Hermes…….ok, no slapping……for now….
Despite the cackle, I chose to believe he was applauding your persistence and dedication, Daisy. 🙂
Either that or he knows my resistence level is nil and the lemming center of my brain knows no bounds….yeah, that’s probably it.
But sure, we’ll go with that pesistence and dedication thing. Makes me sound all strong and courageous!
Oh and since I went ahead and shelled out the moulah for the Escale a Portofino? NOW, there’s deals on ebay for it! sheesh! Clearly the Perfume Gods don’t care a fig for my wallet woes!!
Oh no! Daisy! Say it ain’t so! You missed the ebay boat on L’Escale?
missed the boat….sailed away without me…left me (and my credit card) swimming with sharks….
The Perfume Gods are fickle, old-school deities. Like the ancient Greek ones, they also sometimes turn a beloved scent into a pine bush or something (a pathetic metaphor for reformulation…)
that’s ok Erin, the metaphor is working for me…..old school dieties eh? I guess I’m up for…ya know, like…sacrificing a goat or burning some perfectly good produce ….whatever it takes…
dieties? skinny Gods or bad spelling? I type too fast and I obviously don’t proof read!
Erin, this is a great article. So glad to read about a category that can be so easily overlooked — by myself, certainly! — in the mad lemming lust for deeper, stronger, stranger.
Timely, too, as the weather warms and those heavy scents are just much too much of a good thing. I appreciate, too, how colognes can be great, affordable quality. Spritzing with abandon becomes a guilt-free pleasure. And they lift my mood so reliably — perfect wake-up scents for a lazy late spring and summer morning.
Thanks for a lovely read.
Thank you. I find my years of buying niche samples has made me a very hesitant, miserly applier. When I finally get up the nerve to spritz with abandon, I feel wild and free – and I smell good! 🙂
P.S. I love the photo. What IS that???
It’s a public bathroom cologne dispenser (kind of like the ones for condoms or “feminine products”). Put in some quarters, and the machine squirts you with the designer imposter type cologne of your choice.
squeeeeee!!!
When I sent it to Robin I told her it falls short of the beautiful pics she normally picks for me, but it made me laugh.
Wouldn’t change it for the world 🙂
I dunno, it kinda looks dirty somehow…I think I’d stick with a small atomizer in the ole purse.
Oh, I don’t think we were implying we would use it! It’s just truly wonderful-terrible that such a thing exists…
I want one of my own!
Robin, you have sooooo many perfumes that your ‘automatic fragrance dispenser” would cover an entire wall of your home! And then everyone would want to come over to be spritzed….make them pay the 25 cents….
My dream come true, Daisy! 🙂
Can I visit?? please please?
E, I adore Eau de Monsieur and sadly will shed many a tear once my tiny sample is drained. The Escale is a wonderful play on the traditional eau de cologne with its almond undertones. You got me thinking why I don’t own a bottle yet.
well, hye thee to ebay….I saw a couple promising looking deals.
Hey D, it’s decant time! I own Monsieur. I’ll send you my collection list sometime soon and soon after a package will arrive, smelling of lemons and maple syrup 😉
Yay! What a great list, Erin, and I’ve tried nary a one. Now I know I have something to look forward too–totally lemming the Eau de Rochas. You know, it kind of reminds me of the turn a lot of people take with food, fashion and so on — the moment when they realize that Simple is actually Very Very Difficult.
Victoria of BdJ once compared Caron Pour un Homme to suimono, the clear broth Japanese chefs dedicate themselves to mastering in order to demonstrate a rare talent for the fiendishly simple. Yours is a very thought-provoking idea…
I loved Rochas eau de Rochas, and EdM by AG. Absolutely lovely scents.
Also, more nice summer colognes are Extra Vielle & Jean Marie Farina by Roger & Gallet.
Your cat (?) looks just like mine! I haven’t tried Extra Vielle, will have to seek it out.
Hi Erin,
Oh that’s cool! Another black kitty lover. R & G make some of my favorite summer scents, also try the Bouquet Imperial by R & G if you can. It has mandarin, lime, nutmeg, and a luscious hint of rhubarb and blackberry.
A lemming is born! Those are some of my favorite notes.
This article reminds me of last summer, when I was coming off a no-fragrance streak and trying to find something new. I wandered around Macy’s for a bit, sniffing here and there, only to have the SA come up and declare “oh, you like the fruity florals!” Well, no…. I don’t like *anything* I’m finding here at the moment, and fruity florals were probably 90% of what was on display. I left, but not before she could attack me w/the (thankfully not so terrible) Moschino Funny. All that said, a good citrus or cologne is NOT wasted on me…I’m a simple kind of girl and find some of the more complex scents to be far too overwhelming. No perfumista here, I’m just a hedonist. 😀
I actually considered Moschino Funny! for this list. Oh! de Moschino is also interesting. But I’m with you 100% on the sales “experience” and also the hedonism!
Haven’t tried the Oh! yet, though I love the clever name. Of the lot in Macy’s at the time, Funny was the closest to something I’d consider, but happily, I wandered down to Sephora next and found the Hermes Jardins….much more what I was looking for. Better yet, I hesitated on the Hermes, went home, googled it…and landed right here.
YAY!
Exactly – thank heaven for Hermes! I found my way here via Bulgari.
Am I correct in assuming when you say Rochas Eau de Rochas you are refering to Eau de Rochas for women? (from the teen age girls in France comment) so when looking for a bit to sample I’d like to know….or is this like AG Mandragore where only the bottle is different between the men’s and women’s fragrance?
Very good clarification – I did mean Pour Femme. The Pour Homme is very nice as well, but I prefer the patchouli to the myrrh in the male version.
Thanks for the suggestions, Erin — I’m at a loss when I think about colognes, so this will give me somewhere to start. It can be ahead-scratching problem to choose something when I can’t easily test them in person.
Yes, this is always an issue. In this economic climate, I even puzzle over whether to purchase a sample.
Chanel Cologne in the Les Exclusifs range – that is another great one.
I love this, really, particularly the musk in the drydown. I tend to think of it as a classic cologne, though, rather than a “twisted” one.
CD’s Miss Dior Chérie L’Eau is crispy cool with no water notes, a perfect antidote to muggy summer days, aka all summer in Montreal. Absolutely no relation to Miss Dior Chérie as far as I can tell, thank heavens.
You know, Helg over on Perfumeshrine has done a generally-favorable review of the MDC l’eau, commenting that it’s fresh in a good way. Like her (and you, maybe?), I didn’t like MDC. I’ve never smelled Miss Dior, so it isn’t that I was put off by changes to the beloved – it’s just that MDCherie smelled like rotting strawberries to me. Gaaah!
(Apologies to anyone who likes Miss Dior Cherie.)
Every time I’m in Montreal, I end up smelling like Schwartz’s smoked meat, but I digress….
Dior does some decent light flankers (and some awful ones, too.) I rather liked the new J’adore Cologne.
Hi Erin! Doesn’t it seem ridiculous that we almost can’t admit that there is absolutely a NEED for something “fresh” — frequently, even, given the swampy summer weather we have in so many parts of the states, or even in places with less humidity… or even just something for “daywear” any time of year.
I haven’t tried any on your list yet, and I really must get a bit of that Portofino. I’m also *really* looking forward to the new Pondichery, whenever that hits our shores. I am a professed lover of citrus in all forms: I still need to try the lauded 4711, but some of my favorite cologne-type fragrances include Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte, CdG Grapefruit, and L’Eau de L’Artisan. I say, “Embrace the Fresh!”
And I must say I truly LOVE that photo and that machine — the tropical sunset palm motif! I had to go to Flickr so I could read every bit of the copy on there: “Our exquisite *replica* of…”
Joe, I will put some 4711 in your package!
The Pondichery does sound nice, doesn’t it? Even to me.
oh, you KNOW I’m lemming after it already.
Aha! I knew we needed a rallying cry, and you have found us one. I recently included d’Orange Verte in the flankers post (I try not to duplicate too many list entries), so I left it off here, but it’s fantastic, of course.
I love how it warns not to smoke in front of the machine. The smoker who did him or herself in with an exquisite replica of Polo Sport would surely be deserving of a Darwin award…
Sounds good to me “EMBRACE THE FRESH!”
Great article Erin! I am almost embarrased to admit that I love kinda fresh and citrusy fragrances. Decades ago, my best friend and I were going to a party (driven there by her crabby older brother) and we doused ourselves with at least half a bottle of Love’s Fresh Lemon in anticipation. We must have reeked something awful .. said crabby brother drove the entire way with his head out the driver side window, cursing us for stinking up the car. I’ve always loved 4711, and now I’ve added Green Water (Jacques Fath) and Monsieur Balmain to my summer rotation, thanks to Kevin’s great reviews on NST. Givenchy Pour Monsieur is also well worth a sniff, and Pour Monsieur (Chanel) is great too. All are crisp and refreshing, and the M. Balmain is light and lemony with a wonderful sandlewood drydown. Creed Silver Mountain Water and Neroli Sauvage are nice for hot and humid days, and if their Selection Verte wasn’t limited only to a gigantic $200+ flacon I would buy that in a second … I’m dying to try the Escale a Portofino!
Givenchy PM is great, rosy-fresh. And thanks for reminding me about Green WAter, I have to go find some….
Eau de Rochas (pour femme) is WILD and so is the gorgeous bottle. Your description of the scent is dead-on. And yes, lots of young girls in France and Wallonie/Belgium wear it. I started wearing it around age 16 and am now sharing a huge splash bottle with my boyfriend. I don’t particularly like the pour homme version.
I also love Chanel Pour Monsieur (but that’s not a real cologne, I guess). And I now really want to try the Eau Radieuse. *lusts*
Ah, confirmation! Thanks. I was trying to find a way of describing what I felt about Eau de Rochas without overlapping with a lot of content from the great review by “TS in Perfumes: The Guide”. There is a great Joan Didion essay called “On Keeping a Notebook” where she advises keeping acquaintance with the people you used to be, and she writes that she now prefers herself at a self-contained seventeen to the person she was by twenty-three. I would be less embarrassed about remembering myself at either age if I’d worn Eau de Rochas….
I just looked up the Notebook reference, thanks!
I have to say that I’m glad I threw some of my old notebooks out. It’s very rare that I want to revisit any of those people. Eau de Rochas is marvellous, but remember that it’s not uncommon in my culture for girls to wear this (at least it wasn’t when I was a teen-ager, 10 years ago aaaah) — so really it’s a bit like wearing Juicy Couture or Vera Wang Princess or whatever nowadays, no? Doesn’t make it any less painful to remember certain m.o.’s 😉
This was so funny – I totally get that feeling when I get to the counter and they don’t recognize my smelling ability right away! This cracked me up. I don’t know if it’s nostalgia, but this summer/spring I have been CRAVING Creative Scentualizations Honeysuckle. It’s green, a little sweet…no citrus (citrus=frootloops on me)…Just fresh and I love it. And yes, the Chanel Exclusif is a great one too.
Yes, it’s quite absurd. I have to nurse my wounded pride. My hubby always makes fun of me, saying “They just don’t know who you ARE, hon…”
I agree with so many of you about the need for crisp and clean with the hot weather coming. My favorites are:
4711, kept in the fridge
Cartier Eau de Cartier
EL Private Collection (not traditional but smells so clean without being soapy!)
Jo Malone Orange Blossom
MPG Sanguine Muskissme
Eau de Cartier is so lovely….
I enjoyed this article and rec list, thank you!
It’s funny to me to realize that I’m just as shy to wear (or even describe) more demanding stuff, like MKK, around strangers, as I am to talk about my lighter/plainer/cheaper tastes with people who actually care about scents. Most of the time I think I’d just as soon wrap myself up in deep dark brooders, but sometimes my nose needs a little sunshine. And then I do like light, simple & fresh things – Escale a Portofino is certainly one…but sometimes I’ll just spritz myself with orange blossom water.
The Eau de Monsieur sounds great. Someone mentioned it’s discountinued – is that true?
(PS – I’m a newbie. Hello all, and thanks for this lovely & rich blog!)
Welcome, Smoky!
I hereby admit that last year I picked up a Coconut Lime body mist at my local pharmacy, and WORE it. And ENJOYED it. Not that it’s anything like on the same level as Diorissimo. Or Parfum Sacre.
I also hereby admit that I do not hate all fruity florals… Ines de la Fressange (the first one in the hexagonal?octagonal? bottle) is really, really nice. Never cloying. And I am keeping my Petite Cherie in the fridge, to be especially enjoyed on hot days.
I don’t hate all fruity florals at all! I just don’t like the ones that dry down into a chemical stew like Juicy Couture. I’m testing a bunch of Histoires de Parfum scents and some of them have lots of fruits and flowers and I’m having a lot of fun with them.
Speaking of fruit, the new Dove bodywash scent called Burst, which is Nectarine and White Ginger, ROCKS OUT!!! Smells so refreshing and really like fresh fruit, not wanna-be fruit, plus does not interfere with perfume. Nice thing to wake up with.
Tama, that sounds yummy! I’ve been having a bit of ginger thing this last week or so….will have to try it!
Welcome Pony!
Welcome! If you want to discuss deep, dark brooders, you’ve come to the right place. What I love about perfume people, however, is, while they have strong opinions, they are often thrilled to find you like something they don’t – another topic for discussion!
I’m not sure if Eau de Monsieur is discontinued. Certainly, I don’t see it around much anymore. A shame!
I’ve always prefered the lime & linden colognes to just the lemon – citrus colognes, but normally I’m not really a cologne gal except once in a while. I consider Mandragore to be my favorite cologne, and I also have some Eau d’Hadrien that I wear once in a while in the summer. I like the O de Lancome that my sister wears and the Eau de Guerlain which I’m thinking of getting this summer. I also really think the Jo Malone French Lime Blossom is great, and I’ve almost bought a FB a few times but didn’t…. My fav niche eau that I recently got a gratis sample of is the PdN eau d’ete which is very nice. I haven’t yet got to skin test Escale a Portofino…I did also recently see a liter sized bottle of 4711 at our TJ Maxx for like $14! I should have bought it, but didn’t, drats!
I love lime, too, though I am sometimes vaguely suspicous of linden. I love that Diptyque linden room spray, though – have you tried that? Eau d’ete is awesome. I’m embarrased to admit that I must be the only blogger who has never “gotten” Nicolai Eau Exotique, though. Scandalously, I prefer the newer, less dry mango, Eau Turquoise.
Hmm…vaguely suspicious? Is it lurking in the bushes behind your house waiting to spritz you with some stonking floral? I am curious about this comment, lol. My fav linden is the recently discontinued Trish McEvoy Citrus Petals #8 – nice clean fresh linden mimosa-y musk scent. But since lime is so fleeting in frags, when I want awesome lime I just take it in a gin and tonic.
I have yet to try Exotique and Turquoise. I’ve only recently began dipping into PdN – I’m waiting for my samples of Temps d’une Fete and Just en Reve as we type!
I guess by “suspicious” I mean I have truly disliked a number of perfumes that list it as a note, and I figured the common denominator of my dislike must be linden – but then I’ve liked a number of scents just called “Linden”. I blame my suspicion on the shifty perfume industry… but I do like the image of it lurking around my house in the shrubs!
ARG, another Trish McEvoy thing to covet! I’ve been desperately wanting to try out her makeup, but she’s not in Canada and, odd for a large company, her website/online presence sucks.
I won’t go over all of it again, but yes Trish McEvoy has a terrible web presence. There are a few times when I swear I’ll never buy another one of her products again b/c of that frustration – or her one season only approach to her products. She obviously doesn’t care about her websales. But she is a lot of fun. Don’t be too disappointed – Citrus Petals is no longer available…
Ths might sound ignorant, but I was wondering what is the difference between cologne and eau de toilette? In Spanish(at least around my neck of the woods) “colonia” is generally used to refer to eau de toilette, but I think this must be something colloquial…
Also wondering why on fragrancex “Eau de Rochas” is described as having the following notes:
Cinnamon, Peach, Apricot, Sandalwood, And Vanilla
Maybe I’m looking at the wrong Eau de Rochas…
I am semi-ignorant, but I think cologne refers to partly a particular stew of citrus and other stuff that is used as a splash an has been around forever. 4711 is a classic example. Variations abound. Thierry Mugler Cologne is also a good example of a modern one. Eau de Toilette can be a lighter or somewhat different version of a perfume or eau de parfum.
Thanks for your reply Tama, much appreciated!
I see you’re checking prices on Eau de Rochas….I was looking for it too, but found it w/ different notes in its description than what is described in the above article.
The one I found with the different notes was called Eau de Rochas Perfume, but then it was described as an edt….confusing!
The concentration differences are clarified by Robin under the ‘Resources’ tab, in FAQs. But often “cologne” just seems to refer to EdTs made with fresh, transparent citrus materials.
Hmm. Those notes *might* be detectable in Eau de Rochas, but I would say the prominent ones are bergamot, green notes, jasmine, oakmoss and patchouli. There’s certainly amber, but I don’t remember any vanilla.
Yes, the girls in France do love Eau de Rochas. I personally wear YSL In Love Again, L’Artisan L’Ete en Douce, Asprey Purple Water, L’Artisan The pour un Ete, Gendarme Sky, AG Mandragore and Escale a Portofino when I’m in a citrusy/summery mood. I am hankering for a bottle of Miss Dior Cherie l’Eau even though the BF gave it the thumbs down. Oh, and Gucci Envy Me II and Missoni Acqua are my two other summer staples.
The Missoni Acqua just does not agree with me, for reasons I can’t discern. Love The Pour un Ete, though.
Haha! It makes me laugh to read some comments about the ‘fresh’ discussion… I never had a negative association with that word. Might it be an American thing? Kevin always moans about yet another fresh men’s and I totally agree about that kind of freshness. Though I still think mainly of pure natural citrus when I hear the word fresh…
Hello Erin, wonderful list. I’m a great EdC fan. I love 4711 in summer, and I also get the impression it’s often seen as a ‘tonic’ rather than a beautiful fragrance. You can take that from the new Cologne line by the same house, which in the German ad talks about the beneficial effects of the respective ingredient (www.acqua-colonia.com/swf/moodfilm.html). Typically German… all about effectiveness. The film seems like they are selling fitness drinks, with that hysterical violin… That’s probably also because of the historic background of EdC as a kind of medicine.
EaPortofino is amazing, it smells so precious in its simplicity. But I already waffled enough about it on the Pondichery page…
Eau de Rochas is something I discovered recently. I absolutely fell in love with it. I does smell like a feminine, but in an ‘open-ended way’, like, you smell it and think ‘French’, and it’s just too elegant to associate it with a men’s fragrance, still you can imagine a guy wearing it. And I don’t care anyway if a fragrance really fascinates me. EdR is just so complex, fresh yet ‘grave’, and very elegant for an ‘Eau’. With exactly the right degree of floweryness how you never get it in a male fragrance. I descided to get it for myself. I think it’s perfect if you want that EdC classicism with some more depth and longevity. I don’t even know the EdR pour Homme, as it’s not that present anymore as it used to be.
Do you know Habit Rouge EdT Légère? It’s VERY citrussy (Guerlain citrus ; ) ) + orange blossom. Probably too oriental to be classed as a EdC. Quite different from the original HR.
Eau Radieuse sounds great! I like the Mugler Cologne.
I like Eau du Sud but don’t really know any othe AG. Need to try this.
I’m wearing Moschine Friends, which is a bit like the Donna K. Would be nice on a woman (or is it unisex anyway?). Super-bright and really good in warm weather. In cold and wet weather it somehow smells like an insecticide… nasty.
My husband said the same about some of the Jo Malones! And once he said it, well…I could see where he was coming from. Would be nice if they worked as such…they’d be the best-smelling bug spray ever! LOL!
Lars, I am so disappointed: the computer I’m using won’t play the music or narration on the linked ad. I love your line on ther German lust for effectiveness. (For an alternate German style, in “art” or ads, anyways, you must visit the Humiecki & Graef website.) I also very much enjoyed your excellent description of Eau de Rochas – we feel exactly the same way about it, it seems.
I have looked high and low for that Habit Rouge Eau Légère, and never found it. It sounds delicious to me. I am not fond at all of the new HR Sport. TPC is apparently getting samples of an old HR Dry EdC, which sounds much more up my alley.
I really like Goutal Eau du Sud, though not quite as much as EdM. I think you would be very intrigued by Eau Radieuse – it is a shame it is so pricey.
Yes, Germans tend are either a tad too rational or they go through the roof with their conceptuality… I heard about H&G. I will have a look at the web site! Elternhaus are a different example, though arguably with more self-irony.
HR Légère is somthing I go on about again and again. I hope that’s ok in a blog 😉 I fell stupid sometimes for repeating myself…
Boy, I’d be in trouble if repeating yourself here was frowned upon! I like to read about Habit Rouge Eau Légère, because it convinces me it really did exist.
Why doesn’t my link for as a link?
http://www.acqua-colonia.com/swf/moodfilm.html
Just to go all snob-opposite on you, my grandfather used to wear Royall Lyme cologne, and it smelled great on him. Anybody know if it still smells good, or whether it’s been cheaped-out? I see it online from time to time.
My dad wore that sometimes, too, and I have wondered the same thing. Great stuff.
‘work as’, I meant to say… oh well, there you are.
Oh, Lars, thanks for the link to that 4711 Acqua Colonia film (I somehow missed Robin’s original post about the fragrances back in February). The Lemon & Ginger sounds quite good, and 40 euro isn’t such a bad price for 170ml. I’m tempted to ask a friend in Munich to buy me some. However, maybe I’ll just forget about it in a week’s time. I liked the film though, even with the swooning string music.
I’ve been in Germany recently but haven’t seen them yet… not really looked for either. I’m curious, but to be honest I find that film a bit cheap. And these reflection effects on the golden writing, like a brass plate on the door of a big nouveau-riche country house 😉
Lars, it is funny how ads have converged so it is difficult to tell at the start of an ad what it is for: a sports drink, a cologne, skin care, jeans…..
So, before I dive into an unsniffed thing, is Eau de Rochas turquoise blue? I am seeing some cheapies on ebay but don’t want to be buying the wrong thing.
There is turquoise/ocean blue ripply water on the bottom half of my box, but the bottle is clear and the juice is straw-coloured. There was once a weird blue one that was named something like disceivingly close to Eau De Rochas, so avoid that one. But the real stuff is almost always cheap, so you should be able to find a good deal.
Now I am really confused because ALL of the eau de Rochas for women is blue and the one for men is straw. The bottle says “Eau de Rochas, Eau de fraicheur pour le corps, Rochas, Paris”. Could they all be funky?
Hi Tama and Erin,
Sorry for butting in — just to say that the bottle for Eau de Rochas (Femme) is definitely clear, the juice is pale yellow and only the box has some blue water graphics on it, as Erin said. There is an Eau de Fraicheur (blue juice) as well, but that seems to be an offspring of the original, as well as the Eau Sensuelle (pink juice).
I’m attaching the video for the fragrance (you see the flacon for one second at the very end):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?gl=US&hl=en-GB&v=hjb8VRQH2kM
Hope this helps and that you will enjoy it!
Thanks very mcuh for this very helpful guide to the Eaux de Rochas!
Okay, the ones I’m seeing must be the fraicheur. Thanks!
Fun topic! I want to try Eau Radieuse — I’d never heard of that one. It gets hot in the summer here, and I’d like to add a couple of EdCs to my wardrobe. I do have (and love) Eau de Cartier, and L’Artisan’s Eau de Jatamansi is on my wish list for summer (guess I’d better hurry up and get some!).
The whole Humiecki & Graef line is worth trying. I also really like their Geste. Multiple Rouge was horrifying and wrong – but it was *so* wrong that it was hilarious, and is therefore worth a try.
My favorite for hot weather and when I can’t decide what to wear is Eau Svelte by Christian Dior. Officially it’s a “Body Treatment Fragrance”. It is fresh, but totally unique. The notes listed in some site are Orange, Rosewood and Violet.
This sounds plain delightful! Why have I never noticed it?
Erin, how did I miss this post?!?!? I love every.single.scent on your list, with the exception of the Rochas, which I have not tried and will remedy this forthwith. I am so glad to see less-known DKNY and AG Monsieur on your list, and I think you know how much I enjoyed Portofino, to my surprise.
Ah, I see I took forever to repsond to this! I hope you enjoy the Rochas – it strikes me as something you might like. One of the two great loves I owe to Angela (Azuree being the other, which I believe you enjoy as well.) Maybe you’re the one that prompted me to try Eau de Monsieur? Can’t remember….
Seven years later….
My favorite cologne for summer for years (in the late ’80s and early ’90s) was Grey Flannel. It was wonderfully fresh without being cloying (because men). I know it’s been reformulated since I last knew it. Anyone know if it’s now bug spray or….?
P.S. Thanks for this list! I need to get me some samples!
Oh, and these warm days I default to the Hermes Jardins (Toit and Mediterranee) and Jo Malone’s Blackberry and Bay.