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The Beauty of the Soliflore

Posted by Angela on 2 February 2009 154 Comments

Lilies of the valley

At first glance, soliflores — fragrances replicating the scent of a single flower — might not seem worth much attention. Why spend money on something you can smell for real in the garden when there are so many interesting compositions out there? Where's the art in that?

Along the same lines, you might ask why photography or figurative painting are arts. After all, a photograph is just a two-dimensional picture of something real, even if it's staged. Every day we probably see people who are walking Diane Arbus photographs, and a hike in a national park yields scores of Ansel Adams images. Give me a wig and I'll show you Cindy Sherman. You've seen one circus freak or sunset and you've seen them all, right?

I used to think so. Not any more. First of all, photography requires craft and vision. A photographer has to choose an image that is meaningful, whether it's beautiful, thought-provoking, or just plain strange. The photographer also has to know how to capture that image, too — how to exaggerate or clarify or wipe away anything that takes away from the photographer's vision. The perfumer faces even more complex questions of craft when creating a soliflore. I'm no expert, but I do know that a perfumer can't just put roses in a cuisinart, add a shot of rubbing alcohol, and end up with Yves Saint Laurent Paris.

But beyond craft, each soliflore is a perfumer's vision, an interpretation of the scent of a flower. Here, like art, good soliflores bear the stamp of their creators, just as a Georgia O'Keeffe painting of an orchid is both a clear depiction of a flower and distinctly a Georgia O'Keeffe painting. Nahéma is the sort of lush, fruity rose you'd expect from Guerlain. Parfums de Nicolaï Mimosaïque shows mimosa as the airy, elegant, French scent you might anticipate (especially after smelling Parfums de Nicolai's iris-based Odalisque), while Caron Farnesiana, predictably, turns mimosa into a wonderful but heavier vanilla, heliotrope, and powdered milk scent.

From soliflores, we realize that a flower isn't just one smell but a whole range of smells. For instance, iris can be rooty (Hermès Hiris) or creamy and earthy (Le Labo Iris 39) or a captivating hybrid of the two (Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist). Compare the mud-laden rose of Frédéric Malle Une Rose to the wine-like rose of Annick Goutal Ce Soir ou Jamais to the Rosine line of fragrances that run the gamut of rose and you see that — apologies to Gertrude Stein — a rose is not a rose is not a rose. At least, not exactly the same rose.

I think for me that the greatest benefit of smelling a soliflore — or seeing a photograph or a portrait or a landscape painting, for that matter — is that it focuses my attention. I'm lucky to have roses, narcissus, osmanthus, and lilacs in my garden to smell when they bloom, and I appreciate them, but because perfume is for smelling I pay more sustained attention to the barely woody lilac scent of Patou Vacances, for instance, than I do to the flower. Now I smell the difference between my neighbor's sweet vanilla-white lilac and the sharper pale purple lilac in my yard. Similarly, lilies of the valley smell a little less innocent thanks to Christian Dior Diorissimo, and Annick Goutal Des Lys shows me the delicate side of a big, meaty lily.

I'll never give up my complicated old Diors, but I've come to appreciate a soliflore. What about you? What are some of your favorites?

Note: image is Lilies of the Valley [cropped] by Auntie P at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk

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154 Comments

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  1. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 1:33 pm

    I have a few. but if I had to pick my favorite soliflore, it would probably be Rose de Caron. An elegant, warm. powdery rose – very old school, intensely feminine.

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  2. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 1:55 pm

    I really like a good soliflore too – it does seem to clear the head! I'd also agree that it is a lot more complicated to do something that would seem so simple. I love a good orange blossom soliflore – my favorite being Lorenzo Villoresi Dilmun for its light orange freshness that still manages to be warm. Laura Mercier's Neroli is a pretty good, soft take on orange blossoms, though the dry down gets a little sweet and has a whiff of limoncello.

    Hands down my favorite soliflores are roses….I have a number of good roses, including Nahema which is a true masterpiece, AG Rose Absolue, Tea Rose, Crabree & Evelyn's Rosewater, AG Ce Soir ou Jamais, and another rose wonder is on my FB hit list this year – i Profumi di Fierenze Miele Rosa. But I really truly believe the best rose soliflore out there is Sonoma Scent Studio's Velvet Rose. It is the most heavenly, perfect, fresh, lush, old fashioned garden rose. Period.

    Laurie Erickson does wonders with roses, in fact, any of her rose based scents are very beautiful (Velvet Rose, Rose Musc (one of my HG's), and Vintage Rose). If you've ever had the experience of wandering around in the summer, and smelling some heaveny rose aroma coming from some old time scraggly rose bush that looks like it's as old as dirt, but still has gorgeous blossoms and amazing scent, that is Velvet Rose.

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  3. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 2:07 pm

    Other than the ones you mentioned, especially Iris 39, ISM and Diorissimo, I think AG makes some lovely soliflores. The honeysuckle and the orange blossom ones are particularly beautiful.

    Crabtree and Evelyn used to make a very pretty violet, but they discontinued it some years ago. For violets, Guerlain Meteorites and Laura Tonatto's limited edition violet, E. Duse, come to mind.

    Hugs!

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  4. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 2:09 pm

    shall we start with tuberose? fracas is too much for me, carnal flower is well, very carnal, I actually like “do son”… what are other tips?

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  5. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 2:09 pm

    Thanks for the tip – I'll have to try this one!

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  6. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 2:33 pm

    I'll second the comments on Diorissimo and Meterorites; and for lillies – Serge Lutens Un Lys.

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  7. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 2:47 pm

    Thanks for the Dilmun – I am always looking for a good orange blossom. l'Artisan Fleur d'Oranger is lovely but fades too quickly for the price. Looking forward to trying that new Prada.

    Also thanks for that giant list of roses! I love rose, but don't really have much yet. I wore a dab of Paris to bed last night. So yum. I HAVE to try the SSS stuff!

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  8. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 2:50 pm

    I just tried MPG's Tubereuse the other day – I am not a fan of Fracas but this was softer. It smelled like fine soap on drydown, but not “soapy”, does that make sense?

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  9. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 2:55 pm

    I've always been attracted to the spicy flowers, like carnation, hyacinth, lilac. So far CdG Red: Carnation is working on the carnation front – I have some old Kiehl Carnation but it burns me – too pure! Keihl also used to make a wonderful Black Narcissus – I have this dried-up old bottle. Seems like lilac is a tough one – I have never heard of Vacances.
    Any recs would be appreciated!

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  10. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 3:11 pm

    It seems like roses really show their variety in soliflores. I have a tiny sample of Rose de Caron, and I'll have to dig it out.

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  11. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 3:12 pm

    You describe them so well! Now I'm positively thirsting for roses. I love the name Vintage Rose, too.

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  12. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 3:14 pm

    The Artisan Fleur d'Oranger is gorgeous, but so darned expensive. Have you tried Annick Goutal Neroli? It's a good one, I think.

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  13. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 3:15 pm

    I agree with you about the AG soliflores. The only one I have is Des Lys, but I have a yen for the honeysuckle, too.

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  14. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 3:16 pm

    Tuberose is a big son of a gun. I wonder if you'd like the Private Collection gardenia and tuberose? It seems more ladylike to me than some.

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  15. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 3:17 pm

    It sounds really nice, and I totally understand what you mean about the soapy-but-not-soapy bit.

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  16. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 3:18 pm

    Lutens has a few good soliflores–well, almost soliflores–and Un Lys is definitely one. So are Rose de Nuit and Fleur d'Oranger. I'm not sure if Tuberose Criminelle counts or not, but it's pretty great, too.

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  17. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 3:20 pm

    Lilac is hard because it can so often end up smelling like cheap room freshener. I know PG has something lilac-y, but I've never tried it. And of course FM En Passant has a nice lilac happening in it.

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  18. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 3:56 pm

    I like the opening of AG Neroli very much, but then it gets too green for me. I have trouble with this from some of her others as well – end up smelling like chopped celery. It's too bad the opening doesn't last longer. But if you are looking for a major league refreshing green scent, it may work. Ava Luxe has some nice orange blossoms too, but they get really vanilla in the dry down.

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  19. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:01 pm

    I'm lucky that rose smells good on me, so anytime I have a chance to smell or try a new rose, I'm there. I feel lucky to have found SSS – I really can't say enough about the roses. And actually, SSS has some really beautiful violets too. The Voile de Violette is a great violet – almost a soliflore. I think it's better than AG Violette, which again loses me in the dry-down…. Wood Violet is very pretty with a richer sweetness.

    I also like YSL Paris, and used to have a bottle a long time ago. It always makes me think of spring because it is so fresh! Great idea to wear it to bed – so romantic!

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  20. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:06 pm

    You mentioned one of my all-time favorite soliflores —
    Parfums de Nicolai Mimosaique — it's divine ;-)
    Also, and forgive me if others have mentioned, b/c I didn't have enough time to read through all the comments, but
    Annick Goutal Le Chevrefeuille
    is such a beautiful honeysuckle
    actually, AG makes many of my favorite soliflores
    AG Neroli is so pretty as well.
    And I really love the Rosine line – gorgeous rose fragrances.
    Jo Malone makes a few nice one's too — French Lime Blossom in particular
    Soliflores appeal to me the most during the hot summer months. This time of year I'm lovin' the orientals and chypres.

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  21. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:07 pm

    I love FM En Passant – it's the most stunning lilac I've ever smelled and I don't think it hits the dreaded car air freshener note ;-)

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  22. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:15 pm

    I have a hard time with AG – I keep hoping one will work. I don't know if I've tried that one, though.

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  23. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:16 pm

    Yeah, my cat appreciates the romance – lol!

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  24. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:21 pm

    I threw caution to the winds and applied to work at the Malle counter at Barneys – my well-heeled friend laughed at me and said she feels like the little matchstick girl in that store and she's wearing Cartier! You mean they wouldn't want a mid-50s, ultra-plush woman with slightly bad skin and an $80 suit who used to sell sewing machines? lol – but I had to try, and I need to go sniff all the Malles.

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  25. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:27 pm

    What a lovely post! You always make me think. I like the idea of focusing my attention.

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  26. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:28 pm

    Sniffapalooza mag has a dozen roses this issue –

    http://www.sniffapaloozamagazine.com/

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  27. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:29 pm

    Celery! That sounds horrible. It does stay pretty green, though–Des Lys does, too.

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  28. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:30 pm

    Maybe it's not a good line for you, but it's fun to keep trying!

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  29. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:31 pm

    It sounds like I'm really going to see about ordering up a bunch of SSS samples!

    Paris is great. It's so over the top that it's hard not to like.

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  30. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:32 pm

    I think my pets would like a little Eau du Ham Sandwich…

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  31. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:33 pm

    Great! I'll have to catch up with it.

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  32. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:34 pm

    Lovely reading, Angela, thank you! I'm learning so much today, as usual!
    My favorites are:
    FM Carnal Flower
    AG Le Chevrefeuille
    Borsari's Violeta di Parma
    MPG Rose Muskissme (I know it's not a soliflore, so I'm cheating but it's my favorite rose)
    Diorissimo
    Jo Malone Orange Blossom
    Caron's Mimosaïque sounds wonderful. Where, oh where could I find it?
    Still looking for more perfects

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  33. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:34 pm

    It really is wonderful and so like spring to me.

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  34. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:36 pm

    You sound like just the sort of person I'd love to sell me FM perfume! I was so intimidated the one time I went to the perfume counter at the NYC Barneys.

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  35. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:38 pm

    I like a lot of soliflores more during the summer, too–except maybe Nahema and Farnesiana.

    Isn't Mimosaique great? I bought it unsniffed and don't regret it at all.

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  36. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:38 pm

    Penhaligon's makes some lovely soliflores — I used to love Bluebell and Lily of the Valley. I'm not sure if it counts, but their Lily & Spice is my favorite lily scent. And I have a soft spot for Jo Malone's Orange Blossom, which is delightfully uncomplicated but clashes with my own complicated temperament! Great analogy with photography, although I'm trying to think of a Diane Arbus soliflore…

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  37. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:39 pm

    Thank you!

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  38. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:41 pm

    The Mimosaique is by Parfums de Nicolai, and if you check out the “Perfume Houses” link at the top, you should be able to find where to buy it. I got mine at Beautyhabit. Thankfully, PdNs aren't ridiculously expensive.

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  39. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 4:42 pm

    I don't know why I forgot about Jo Malone when I was writing the post–she has so many soliflores.

    I mostly think of people when I think of Arbus photographs, but you know what I mean, right?

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  40. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 5:33 pm

    Ooops, I got the two mixed up; I meant that the PdN Mimosaique and the Caron Farnesiana are interesting. I just can't do full bottles, though. I have to be a good girl! Must acquire samples/decants.

    Beautyhabit is an interesting site but the shipping to Canada is costly!

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  41. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 5:33 pm

    I know what you mean, but I can't think of a soliflore that conveys that sense of seedy weirdness! Maybe you'd need a slightly skanky plant to start with?

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  42. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 5:36 pm

    Good luck with the samples, and let me know what you think!

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  43. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 5:37 pm

    Ooh, good point. Tuberose Criminelle is weird, but not very skanky. If only Secretions Magnifiques were a soliflore!

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  44. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 5:44 pm

    I'll show off my ignorance: do these literally contain only one note or is the focus on one note, but the fragrance is still a blend?
    I smelled a few Penhaligon's. Even notes I thought I liked were awful.
    But I like Feu d'Orange Intense Eau de Toilette and Notre Flore Cedar by L`Occitane en Provence a lot. Would they even count? They're named for one note but contain several?

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  45. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 5:48 pm

    Several people have mentioned Crabtree & Evelyn….I enjoy their Patchouli scent (not really a soliflore, but deserving mention). I never really appreciated patchouli until I found a bottle at an antique shop. It is very interesting–not creamy or smooth in the least–highlighting sharp and herbal qualities of patchouli I had never found enjoyable before.

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  46. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 5:59 pm

    A La Nuit! My favorite Jasmine soliflore… They list other notes, but I pay them no mind, LOL.

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  47. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 6:11 pm

    As I understand it, the focus is on one note, but they often contain lots of notes to make an interesting, nuanced scent. Sometimes they might not even contain the note they mimic–for instance, in Perfumes: The Guide they say that Nahema, a gigantic rose scent, might not even contain any rose!

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  48. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 6:13 pm

    I like patchouli a lot, too, but I always thought I hated it because all I'd smelled was nasty, cheap patchouli oil.

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  49. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 6:13 pm

    I don't reach for Soliflores often, but I recently sampled Sonoma Scent Studio's Velvet Rose. It so soft plush and smooth. Very nice scent! That and Penhagligon's Violetta.

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  50. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 6:14 pm

    Oh yes! How could I forget that one? It's a capital J jasmine if ever there was one.

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  51. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 6:16 pm

    C & E makes Evelyn, which is another lovely rose scent. I have one Evelyn rose bush in my back yard, the scent is very close to the actual rose.

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  52. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 6:32 pm

    If you get an aged patchouli (say 10 years or so) it's smooth, buttery and vanilla-like….. lovely stuff!

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  53. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 6:42 pm

    Not horrible, just more “veggies” than I normally want in my expensive french perfume! The opening *is* very pretty.

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  54. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 6:46 pm

    my nose immediately went to LV Dilmun as well — what a wonderful orange blossom that lasts for me! like a Puccini aria!

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  55. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 6:50 pm

    I think I have just about a sample of every one of AG line. The only ones that work for me are Heure Exquise (after a number of testings I had a eureka moment), and then Ce Soir ou Jamais, but only after I'd sampled the edp version in the heavy heat of summer which really made it bloom. Mandragore was the only one that worked right away. I have some eau d'Hadrien, which is ok. The Rose Absolue is very well done, but doesn't last too long. I always want Grand Amour or one of the orientals to work, but they just don't. Keep trying….you never know when it will happen!

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  56. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 6:55 pm

    I've sampled most of the SSS line. And I tell you Laurie is really gifted. It's a great disappointment to me that I'm anosmic to most of the musks she uses, so a number of her fragrances just don't work for me. Otherwise, I'd probably own 5 or 6 of them! One I'm always hoping will come around for me is her Champagne du Bois which is an outstanding incense style frag a la Chanel No 22. I always look forward to anything she's developing! In my book, her Rose Musc is tied for #1 HG spot with Nahema.

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  57. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 6:57 pm

    Fleurs d'Oranger by SL is another great soliflore. I can't go near it because of the cumin, but I appreciate it in “theory”.

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  58. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 7:02 pm

    What a beautiful musial image! It always makes me think of sitting in a beautiful French patisserie – the orange blossom, light spices and soft vanilla always make me think of wonderful pastries, even though I'd never say that Dilmun is gourmand. It does have outstanding lasting power.

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  59. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 7:07 pm

    Another major league jasmine is Montale's Jasmine Full. I think its amazing…I can only imagine a whole bottle would last forever. It really has an amazingly true, intense jasmine! Each time I test it off my little vial, even a drop is like, WOW!

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  60. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 7:11 pm

    Hey, may as well go for it! How about an Absolutely Fabulous moment here: “You can lose the attitude, you only work in a shop.” LOL. I joke now with my favorite SA at Nordstrom that I'll come and work with her, which she finds amusing.

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  61. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 7:52 pm

    Velvet Rose is getting a lot of love on this site! Sounds like a must try.

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    • mals86 says:
      25 March 2009 at 11:23 am

      Anyone wants a sample of Velvet Rose, PM me. I have a bottle and am not using it (the “hint of patchouli” is too much patchouli for me, but I am freakishly sensitive to it).

      I’ll come back and repost, should this offer expire!

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  62. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 7:53 pm

    I have an old bottle of their rose, and you're right, it smells just like a crisp red rose.

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  63. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 7:54 pm

    That's true–if you want veggies you can always go with Artisan Fleur de Carotte!

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  64. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 7:55 pm

    I think I have a sample of Dilmun around somewhere, and I will dig it up before the day is done.

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  65. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 7:56 pm

    I like Songes a lot, and I'd love a bottle of Eau de Ciel, too.

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  66. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 7:58 pm

    That's high praise!

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  67. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 7:59 pm

    There are many fragrances I also appreciate “in theory”!

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  68. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 8:00 pm

    Music, pastries–sounds irresistible!

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  69. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 8:01 pm

    I've never smelled that one, but its name sure makes it sounds jam-packed with jasmine.

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  70. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 8:33 pm

    We had a large lilac bush in our front yard when I was growing up in the Midwest, and for a few weeks in the Spring our house was surrounded by this wonderful smell. I remember my mother making these large bouquets out of them that I took down to our church. Close up, the smell was so intense, it was wet and green. We don't have anything like that here in California. The dark purple lilacs here have a lilac fragrance that's much more quiet. I hadn't smelled my childhood lilacs until I smelled En Passant, which copied it right down to the wet cucumber smell.

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  71. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 8:50 pm

    Now that's interesting…I am a fan of Champagne du Bois, too, but it leads me toward Bois des Isles. A lot. Hmmmm….

    I've been having a bit of fun with my SSS sampler, but have no roses from Laurie. About to rectify that…

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  72. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 8:52 pm

    Lots of food for thought, thinking in terms of perfumery and photography as representations of the artists' visions. Who is the Cindy Sherman of perfumery? While perfumery appears capable of sustaining an Ansel Adams, can it sustain a Cindy Sherman, a Minor White? Not even thinking about Diane Arbus right now. Photography is not meant for personal adornment (usually). Perhaps that is the difference I am stumbling over right now. Interesting read.

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  73. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 9:00 pm

    I've double checked…lots of roses…you mentioned Malle Une Rose, which makes me melt..but what about the fresh, greener, tea rose of Lancome Mille et Une Roses? And, honestly, the Bulgari rose is pretty close to the rose of a traditional rosewater. Which makes me mention…traditional rosewater. ;)

    Other iris: Acqua di Parma. Other LOTV: I don't know yet, but I've got a vintage Coty Muguet I'm cracking open in honor of spring…when it finally arrives…

    Love the concept of photographs and focus.

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  74. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 9:40 pm

    I vote for the L'artisan Fleur d' Oranger, my favorite flower for sure. It's expensive, but I scored a bottle at 30% off, which helped some. I also love carnations, which no one ever seems to mention, and my favorite is DSH's Oeillets Rouge. Beautiful and true to life, but better!

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  75. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 9:51 pm

    Hands down Frederic Malle Une Rose and Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia.

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  76. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 10:17 pm

    Oh, brother…I didn't touch violets…right now, L'Artisan Vert Violette is on one wrist…tossing that in the solipile…

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  77. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 10:41 pm

    What an evocative story! I discovered a few years ago that lilac blossoms are edible, too. The white ones seem to have the best flavor, but it's nice to have that scent in your mouth and nose.

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  78. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 10:42 pm

    You guys are making me crazy about SSS–I haven't tried any yet. I'll be doing some rectifying, too.

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  79. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 10:43 pm

    I look forward to reading everyone's comments, but first I'll say that I've enjoyed getting samples of soliflores (and other mostly-single-note scents) from the time I started this obsession a couple years ago. It's helped me learn what I like and what to look for… building my scent vocabulary. And my education in this regard is nowhere near complete: I still need to sample many many accords; I still don't know for sure what heliotrope, or immortelle, or gardenia like in isolation.

    In any case, some of my favorites are as follows, though some of these I wouldn't choose to wear all day:

    violet: Violetta da Parma

    iris: TDC Bois d'Iris (one of my absolute favorite scents, period)

    osmanthus: TDC Osmanthus

    rose: FM Une Rose & Ava Luxe Incense Rose

    carnation: CdG Carnation

    Great topic. Thanks, Angela.

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  80. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 10:46 pm

    It seems like the Cindy Sherman of perfumery would be someone who did almost parodies of existing scents. Maybe L'Etat Libre? Or Paris Hilton? I don't know–I need to give this some thought.

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  81. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 10:48 pm

    SS, I love the idea of saving the Coty Muguet for spring. Here, today showed the tiniest hint of spring–daffodil stems are breaking through the earth and I hear birds again. Still, it snowed a week ago and could again.

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  82. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 10:49 pm

    Carnations are great. For their old fashioned feeling, they remind me of violets, but with a different mood. I like Caron Bellodgia and Patou Adieu Sagesse for a little smack of carnation, and Windsong, too.

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  83. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 10:50 pm

    You've always liked those! I remember. And for good reason–they're both so nice.

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  84. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 10:51 pm

    Yes! “Soliphile” is a good term. Let's make it official.

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  85. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 10:54 pm

    You've inspired me to get out my sample of TDC Bois d'Iris.

    It would be nice to have a sample set of soliflores to help learn the notes–I know I'd like it. The difference between gardenia and tuberose, for instance, would be great to have, and vials for ylang ylang, jasmine, osmanthus, and heliotrope would all be so useful.

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  86. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 11:35 pm

    CdG Carnation is the bomb. It is high on my FB wish list.

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  87. Anonymous says:
    2 February 2009 at 11:40 pm

    I have a sample of that but it never smelled any better to me than the decent jasmine absolute I can get at the hippie store for much less. It's lovely, but I didn't think it was that much better.

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  88. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 12:07 am

    You're right – vials of those scents would be great. This train of thought got me once again looking up an online source called Nature's Gift, which sells some amazing (and amazingly pricey) absolutes and oils. It's such an amazingly tempting site for “windowshopping” if you like that sort of thing. ;-)

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  89. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 12:34 am

    Hey, any money saved is money earned, especially these days.

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  90. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 12:34 am

    When I lived in NY, I always waited for the arrival of tiny white and purple crocus to signal the arrival of Spring. Such a cheerful little flower.

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  91. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 12:35 am

    Oh yeah, window shopping is fun.

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  92. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 6:19 am

    When's the Gardenia Musk due, does anyone know?

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  93. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 6:56 am

    Does anyone have any suggestions where I can get the CDG Carnation? I have heard it mentioned many times but have never seen it for sale and I love a good carnation.

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  94. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 8:09 am

    You're the second person to tease/console me with hints of daffodils. I'm afraid there's a couple of months to go before they start their brave thrust up around these parts; we're still in single digit temperatures.

    They are wonderful, aren't they? And, despite the possibility of snow again, there's something all confirmed about spring coming once you see the daffs and hear the birds…

    I will report on the Coty Muguet when that occurs.

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  95. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 9:27 am

    Two soliflores I really like: Pacifica's lemon blossom and Pacifica's Hawaiian Pikake

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  96. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 9:48 am

    I love me some Etro Heliotrope, Mmmmm;-)

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  97. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 9:50 am

    I love it too. It's the only scent I've ever smelled that is like the night-blooming jasmine plant that grew outside my window in L.A. I only have a sample, though; may have to save up. I can imagine wearing this on summer nights.

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  98. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:13 am

    It's -13C and we're expecting 20 cm of snow, again…no sign of vegetation anywhere, except for cedar bushes covered in snow

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  99. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:25 am

    Yosh's “Stargazer” is a very true representation of the Stargazer lily and its scent (which, alas, drives me crazy, I can't stand to have them in my house).

    Calypso

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  100. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:49 am

    Yes! And the snowdrops and daphne, too.

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  101. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:53 am

    If you go to the top of the page, you'll see a link to Perfume Houses. Robin is really good about suggesting where to buy the perfume from each house under its entry.

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  102. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:55 am

    I have a pot of tiny forced daffodils on my dining room table, and I love it.

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  103. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:55 am

    Those Pacificas are such a deal, too!

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  104. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:56 am

    That is a good one! It's been ages since I smelled it, but I remember being really enamored of it. I like heliotrope.

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  105. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:58 am

    Intense white flowers on a summer night sounds so nice right now–so romantic.

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  106. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:59 am

    Brrr. I know we'll have a few more cold spells here, but it is so nice to see the tiniest hint of spring, however fleeting it is.

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  107. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 11:00 am

    I think it is still in development – she's commented a little on her blog. I think she's uncertain about the dry-down musks. She's working on two or three other new ones too.

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  108. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 11:00 am

    Lilies in the house can feel so funereal, but lilies on skin seem somehow different. I think I have a sample of the Yosh somewhere–I'll have to go find it!

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  109. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 11:01 am

    ScentScelf – I hadn't even thought about Bois des Isles – I'll have to compare them this evening – what fun!

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  110. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 11:20 am

    Soliphilia!

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  111. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 12:12 pm

    Her Wiood Violet is amazing too, it is soft and develops beautifully, it stays on skin a very long time. I have sampled a few of her scents and it really is difficult to choose. She truly is talented.

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  112. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 12:28 pm

    Donna Karan Gold is a gorgeous lily — to my nose, superior to SL Un Lys. Best of all, it was really underrated when it was released and it's been discontinued, which means it's on eBay for next to nothing! I got my 3.4 (and it's a stunningly beautiful bottle, all hammered “gold”) for $12.99.

    Just HAVE to say, to get it off my chest, that I myself wouldn't characterize Nahema as a soliflore. Just doesn't fit the definition, imo. Gorgeous stuff, though, esp. the edp and extrait. Okay, I'm done.

    Another source of some wonderful soliflores is Givenchy. Their single-harvest LEs are amazingly vivid: the mimosa, the jasmine, the Rose Centifolia and Damascena. Talk about a neat idea: the essence of the flowers from a single year and a single location — just like a great Bordeaux or Burgundy. The thought of it gives me goosebumps, and they're extraordinarily well-done.

    Superb idea for an article, Angela, great writing (as usual) and some great contributions. Love NST!!!!

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  113. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 1:02 pm

    LuckyScent

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  114. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 2:03 pm

    Great topic! I'm sitting here looking out my window at the snow, being cheered by all the wonderful evocations of flowers.

    I had trouble finding a good orange flower. The flower itself is heady and strong with no hint of citrus, but in central Florida (not where I am now!), when the orange groves are in flower, you can smell the flowers and the leaves and the earth and the orange peel–oranges are unusual in that there can be flowers and fruit on the tree at the same time. Borsari Zagara (Orange Flower) and I Profumi di Firenze Zagara put the scent of the fruit in with the flower, which was just what I was looking for.

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  115. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 2:13 pm

    Bergere: I'm wondering how you feel about Hermès Concentré d'Orange Verte if you've tried it? It's quite a combination of flower, leaves, peel… and sweeter to me than the regular Eau d'OV.

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  116. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 4:32 pm

    I'm trying it now, and wrangled a sample from the saleswoman, it's more gardenia than tuberose though? I think it's more something for my mother, it's about time she upgrades her perfume tastes :-)

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  117. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 4:32 pm

    Annick Goutal's Rose Absolute (100 ml) – still my #1 after over 13 years. Recently acquired Montale's Aoud Roses Petals (also 100 ml) which I adore but there's just something about AG's Rose….

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  118. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 7:53 pm

    I love that Lemon Blossom! I have a bottle of Terra Nova Pikake that will last me my whole life, I think. Heady stuff.

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  119. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 7:56 pm

    I love the Organza Special Harvest but I have a giant bottle of Organza to get through – they are similar enough I can't see going for it. I do need to try the others. though. For some reason I do really well with Givenchy (except that recent one – Very Irresistable? Blech).

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  120. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 8:20 pm

    Ooh–perfect!

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  121. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 8:21 pm

    It sounds really nice!

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  122. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 8:24 pm

    I just can't believe they discontinued DK Gold! It's so much better than so much of the dreck on the market.

    Maybe Nahema is in its own class. It does have a fair amount of peach in it, but to me it's a glorious rose.

    I still need to try more of the single harvest Givenchys, but it irks me that they're so expensive.

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  123. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 8:25 pm

    B, I think orange flower and neroli are the same thing. Maybe that's a hint that will help you on your quest.

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  124. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 8:26 pm

    It's really refreshing, too.

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  125. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 8:27 pm

    It sounds too staid for you. How about Miller Harris Noix de Tuberose?

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  126. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 8:28 pm

    I think we all have our favorite roses–they're so different sometimes! I've never tried the AG Rose, but I'll keep my eyes open for it.

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  127. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 8:30 pm

    I know someone else whose favorite scents are Boucheron and–Pacifica Lemon Blossom! Not a predictable combo, but nice.

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  128. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 8:31 pm

    The name just dares you to resist it, in my opinion.

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  129. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 9:52 pm

    I can't help but chime in on the SSS roses. Velvet Rose and Rose Musc are my faves; the Vintage Rose didn't work as well for me. I also adore Wood Violet, and join Vanessa in being eager for the Gardenia Musk to come out!

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  130. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 9:57 pm

    En Passant is incredibly beautiful, I agree!

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  131. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:01 pm

    It will interesting to see what you think of it, Angela! And SFLizbeth, I agree that Penhaligon's Violetta is nice.

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  132. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:10 pm

    Joe, Bois d'Iris and Une Rose are two of my top favorites, also, and I like TDC Osmanthus, too. So if YOU like Violetta di Parma and CdG Carnation, I'm going to try them!

    For carnation, my favorite so far is Etro Dianthus. But I'm still looking…

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  133. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:14 pm

    A jasmine that hasn't been mentioned: Nani by Saffron James. It's the ultimate sexy pikake, IMO. And Saffron James Le'a is a plumeria/frangipane soliflore based on two varieties of that flower. It's lovely!

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  134. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:18 pm

    SSS has a huge fan base here, that's for sure!

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  135. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:19 pm

    I'll report back….

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  136. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:20 pm

    That's a new one to me–thank you!

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  137. Anonymous says:
    3 February 2009 at 10:21 pm

    It's always good to find your evil scent twin.

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  138. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 2:36 am

    thanks for the tip! it's now on my list, together with tuberose criminelle – I have an excuse for a weekend trip to Paris to try that one

    :-)

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  139. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 10:49 am

    Take me with you!

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  140. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 12:10 pm

    Ang, Come on over and say hi to me on MUA — I'm rrazzell — and I'll send you samples of the ones I have!

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  141. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 12:13 pm

    And for a glorious, deep, velvety, plum-red, garden-like beauty, it's hard to beat SL Sa Majeste la Rose. . .

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  142. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 12:16 pm

    According to my neroli/orange blossom obsessed friend, Czech & Speake's is the ne plus ultra! It IS rather fabulous, I think, although I'm not the expert she is. Ask me about osmanthus, though – it's Osmanthe Yunnan, hands (and wallet) down!

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  143. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 12:33 pm

    I'll happily second Sa Majeste la Rose my favourite rose scent of all time – must go and spray some now!

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  144. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 2:29 pm

    I have to agree with Robin that I don't really consider Nahema a soliflore, even though it's all about the rose. The greatest rose fragrance ever created, yes, but I think of it more as an oriental since it works its way down to that Guerlainade base.

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  145. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 2:35 pm

    I have the Organza Jasmine Harvest 2007, and I think it is really a marvellous jasmine. It is a vanilla oriental for sure, but the opening is lush and apricoty, just like the description. It has medium sillage and the lasting power is very good. It is very “golden” and summery – very lush, seductive. I've been very happy with it, but it is definitely an oriental for jasmine lovers, not a soliflore. I've never tried the others, though I am sorely tempted to get the 2007 Amarige mimosa.

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  146. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 4:36 pm

    Mmm, sounds yummy! Thank you for the recommendation!

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  147. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 5:04 pm

    And her Vintage Rose — a dark, smoldering incense rose — is A- MAZE – ING!

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  148. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 9:07 pm

    You are too kind!

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  149. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 9:08 pm

    It really is a beauty!

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  150. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 9:09 pm

    Great recommendations!

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  151. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 9:10 pm

    Too bad I can't smell you from here….

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  152. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 9:11 pm

    Maybe you guys are right. Nahema is something else altogether–but so gorgeous.

    Log in to Reply
  153. Anonymous says:
    4 February 2009 at 9:12 pm

    The mimosa does sound really intriguing.

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