Dans Tes Bras is the latest from Frederic Malle. It's the brand's 17th fragrance (time flies!) and the second from perfumer Maurice Roucel (he also developed Musc Ravageur). Dans Tes Bras aims to capture the scent of warm, salty skin — Malle described it as "saltiness and a hint of sunscreen" and noted that the "...idea was to depict intimacy – when you travel through it, you get the scent of skin."*
Dans Tes Bras is, simply put, a strange fragrance. Search the online fragrance forums and you'll find lots of mushroom references; Perfume Posse described it as the "violets in the mushroom patch oddity that is Dans tes Bras" (but they meant that in a good way, mind you).
I'll start with the facts: Dans Tes Bras is a spicy woods scent, and the notes include bergamot, clove, violet, jasmine, sandalwood, patchouli, incense, cashmeran, heliotrope and white musk. The early stages are strong, peppery-earthy violet; later, it's softer and earthier still, and the violet gradually gives way to a very salty heliotrope over vague musky woods (it reportedly features an "overdose" of the cashmeran note). Several hours in, it comes very close to its inspiration: it smells like dirty skin — not sweaty, really, just dirty, that is, skin with dirt on it, and possibly with the remnants of the violet perfume you'd applied earlier in the day.
Is it nice? Well, that's going to depend very much on your definition of nice. It strikes me as perhaps the most intellectual fragrance of the Frederic Malle line, and I can't help but wonder what people (including me) would make of it without the brand name and the backstory. As an exercise in modern conceptual perfumery, it's an interesting fragrance, but even after wearing it numerous times over a period of some weeks, I find I can't really approach it on any other terms than as an exercise in modern conceptual perfumery. For now, it's going in my purgatory basket.
Frederic Malles Dans Tes Bras is available in 50 ($150) and 100 ml ($220) Eau de Parfum; for buying information, see the listing for Frederic Malle under Perfume Houses.
* first quote via fashionweekdaily, second via independent.co.uk.
This actually sounds really interesting! At least it wasn't a boring fragrance :]
I just acquired a sample of this and am looking forward to testing it more thoroughly. My initial impression after a spritz at Barney's was that it was dominated by an oddly cold, metallic note. No spicy woods for me, and though I was really prepped for the earthy mushrooms–I even went for a walk in the park on a damp cool day hoping for some congruence–the wet metal remained. It's a note that makes sense to me as a partner to or aspect of violets and heliotrope, but I don't associate it with skin or salt–I need more warmth for that.
True!
It really does seem to be changeable w/ the weather — there were times when I wore it and hardly smelled the violet, other times, it was mostly violet. I can't really say I get mushrooms, and it doesn't seem warm until it's been on skin a very long time. I can see the “wet metal” aspect, though.
I bought a bottle of this last night, when Frederic Malle was appearing at Barneys. I had smelled it a few weeks ago in LA, loved it upon first spritz, and then lamented not toting it home with me buried deep in my luggage encased in a little dress of bubble wrap.
This is my kind of scent – skin, violets, musk, incense, patchouli, wood, and a nice helping of dirt. I love the salty aspect and the earthy violet . In fact, I get the violet note BIG TIME, but I don't detect the metallic accord that others have mentioned. It gets really sweet on me during the dry-down, with a distinct powdery edge. This is going to sound really whacky – but there is something in here that reminds me of Chanel Beige!
It was really nice to have Frederic show me the scent himself – I was the last customer there & we got to chat at length about Dans Tes Bras &
one of my favorite Frenchmen – the extraordinary Maurice Roucel.
I've only tried it the once, but it reminds me of the work of intellectual sculptors like Jennifer Pastor. I get it and I really like it, but I am not sure how often I will want to wear it. On the other hand it could really grow on me like some of the CdGs or CB:IHPs. I couldn't have predicted that Tar would turn FBW for me on first wearing.
I'm glad to hear someone else gets 'confusing' from this – it's been raved about so much, I felt like an oddity in not getting what everyone else does. I don't get mushrooms or violets, or in fact, anything at all identifiable, from Dans Tes Bras. It's just a mishmash of assorted chemicals to my nose. I've been wondering if there's some note that makes sense of the whole thing, but to which I'm anosmic? I
I am wearing this right now, for the second time this week, and it is fantastic. I get violets, wood, and incense – and a fascinating “clean dirt” smell. I am planning on purchasing this Monday – I could see myself wearing this scent every day without getting tired of it. And that's saying a lot.
If on a paper strip I find its strangeness appealing, the couple of times I tried it on my skin I couldn't help seeing myself naked in a wood, rolling… no, too happy, falling on a patch of moss, mushrooms and dirt, after having had a wax and having my body smeared with oil, the one you use to remove traces of wax. I think I'll have to give it another try before giving up, but to me, as someone else has already pointed out, this perfume is too cold to recall the scent of any skin
Nice but didnt find it FB worthy.
I purchased a bottle at first sniff, but it's very me…I love the damp earth smell and it's the only violet that doesn't kill me with sweetness. It smells different on everyone; actually, I wish it smelled as good on me as on the male SA – he got warm, musky woods and I get something cleaner and greener. But, I definitely can't see myself getting bored with it, and it's definitely original.
I wonder if men find the smell of sex a turn on? I hate to say my first thought was “gross”. Kudos for being different though. I don't want to smell like mushrooms. But I applaud people who do. Viva la difference! I feel I'm showing my age as I like flowery spicy scents.
Although I do wear Bulgari Black. Hum, wonder what that means?
Joy,
Becca
completely a highly intellectual and fabulously theoretic fragrance that is completely unwearable on me. i guesss I don't belong 'dans tes Malle's bras'
I would say I like it too — it just isn't as exciting as I expected. More interesting as an art work than a perfume, perhaps.
Interestingly enough, at least one of the times I wore it, I could hardly smell it at all – seemed too faint to bother with, even after I applied more. But that only happened once.
Becca, can't tell if that's a general comment, or if you tried DTB & thought it smelled like sex?
Bklyn, yeah, that perhaps sums up my feelings too.
Robin, I find this a puzzler as well. I've tested it on several occasions, wrote about it not once but twice, and believe it is one of the most original releases of the year — it pushes the realm of perfumery out there, without resorting to shock tactics, just a deep weirdness and “un-perfumeness”. And it keeps morphing too. I'm not sure this is something I'd wear, but I love to sniff it.
That is saying a lot!
I totally agree. I really enjoyed testing it and puzzling out the notes, but would never buy it because I had absolutely no urge to wear it again. It wasn't that I disliked it, but it didn't “speak” to me at all, or play on any of my emotions like the fragrances that I love and repeatedly reach for do.
I'm going to let it sit a few months before I try it again. I was wearing it today with Apres l'Ondee since Malle mentioned Apres l'Ondee in one of his interviews. It does kind of smell like Apres l'Ondee on dirty skin, but then, Apres l'Ondee just smelled so heartbreakingly beautiful on its own, and the DTB just smelled “interesting”. So I'll give it a rest.
Yes, would agree with “one of the most original releases of the year”, and all the rest of what you said. And it is deeply weird without being unwearable. Just not sure there's anything there to love. Who knows, sometimes I pull something out of the purgatory basket and *boom* — love. And sometimes they go right back into the basket.
Hmm… interesting… as in perhaps an interesting entry in the “If There Ever Was…” book that Marcello reviewed last month.
However, purgatory basket says a lot… NEXT.
Ok, ok, I'll admit that now, after reading all the comments, I'm curious to at least try it. However, I don't know if I'm feeling especially cranky or cynical or what today, but I find this kind of “conceptual” perfumery annoying me, especially given the price point of Malle's scents. I think you're onto something when you say that it would be interesting to note how this would be received if it were not associated with FM. Again, I think I'm just cranky, because I can certainly appreciate “art for art's sake” — I just find these kinds of things sort of “masturbatory” exercises, appreciated only by French intellectuals and pefumistas who swoon over the latest Malle or Lutens release. However, half the films I love could be described as “intellectual masturbation,” so again, forgive me for venting… 😉
Yeah, would agree — had little or no emotional response to it, and that was even clearer after wearing it next to Apres l'Ondee.
My apologies. I just read the general description and what most you said about mushrooms and other reviews. Apparently that's not what others are getting at all. Violets, incense, earth, actually sound nice to me. I should have read more before I shot off. I am chagrined.
There is a company that is making a fragrance to smell like sex, but I didn't retain the name…they have a juvenile drawing of a penis on the packaging and it supposedly smells like the worst thing you're imagining- that to me is with-out merit. But I suppose it will sell on shock value. I should have thought F.M. wouldn't put something out there that was with-out taste. Their reputation precedes them.
Do you know who I'm talking about Robin? and what is your opinion if so?
sorry to anyone I've offended,
Becca
Well said Joe. I feel the same way myself. Like Koko the gorilla who made finger paintings and the art experts who swooned over them. Is the emperor wearing clothes? And who speaks up? Bravo for speaking up. Maybe Koko really is talented. Beauty truly is in the eye…
-Becca
Becca, no need to apologize at all — in fact I apologize because I wasn't clear — I wasn't offended in the least, was just trying to understand if you'd smelled it or were just making a general statement.
You must be talking about one of the Etat Libre d'Orange scents…probably Secretions Magnifiques. I haven't smelled it!
I know exactly what you mean, but I don't think of the Malle line that way at all. Certainly there are “art for art's sake” kind of brands, but not Malle, I don't think — really, I don't think there is another in the line that I'd label as an “intellectual” fragrance. Mostly they're just beautiful & exquisitely made. And this one, even, doesn't strike me as “weird for the sake of being weird”, which as we know some brands shoot for.
Goes on my must sample list. Sounds intriguing. Many mixed reviews out there, but many seem to like it. Thanks for another honest review, Robin!
Absolutely worth trying, and yes, has some definite fans.
Isn't the new Kenzo (mentioned on a previous page on this site) also a skin scent? Wonder how they compare…
And, by extension, aren't all scents that smell of leather also “skin” scents?
And if you're asking Santa for one of these this Christmas, do you say, “Gimme some skin!”
I have tried this twice on skin and it didn't move me in the slightest. Got a bit of salt, a bit of violet, a bit of sweaty skin, but overall it was formless and slightly spiky – and frankly downright odd to my nose. A purgatory basket or “meh” bag item for sure.
It is odd, that's why I will revisit it later. Did you find it sweaty though? I really didn't.
i LOVE this scent. having been on a recent violet scent journey i decided i had to have this. at first spritz i thought wow this odd. 30 minutes later my husband said it was lovely & would not stop sniffing me, lol. then person after person commented on how good i smelled, comments like what is that scent, & that it smells so “natural”. more reaction than any other perfume i have. all positive. i find i love it as it almost disappears to me – but returns when i move my hair or move my wrist past my face.
to me it is beautiful salty violety musk. in a very good way. a new HG 🙂
Oh, I definitely don't mean to be misunderstood: I don't think of Malle as “that type of line” at all — certainly most of his creations have been exquisitely wearable (Une Rose), even when edgy (Carnal Flower). And even lines that *are* “that type” (like ELdO maybe) still turn out scents that are interesting.
I think it's just this particular fragrance and the way it's been written about that pushed my buttons (just a little). And it's a good thing when people can't make up their mind about a scent sometimes (see my reference to film above, LOL). However, I would love there to be a way for someone to do a blind test of a new FM launch like this for the “perfumeratti” to see if they would swoon and be so willing to give it a second, third, fourth chance if they thought it was by some unknown or less-liked perfumer. In any case, now I'm curious, and I'm sure that's certainly the point. My interest is even piqued by something like Serge Noire, which is, I guess, ultimately more interesting and innovative and perhaps fun (even if it's — debatably — unwearable) than yet another “fugue on a theme of Arabie.”
lol-as long as it isn't “Silence of the Lambs” skin it'll be fine.
Actually, I think I was being repetitious because I meant the salty aspect of sweaty rather than BO sweaty or L'Air de Rien sweaty.
Wow, sounds like you've really got a winner! Nice.
All makes sense. But I do think if you know it's from FM & Maurice Roucel, it's worth giving it another try, and if it's from someone you've never heard of, maybe it isn't. There isn't time to give everything on earth another shot, so you might as well cut your losses and spend the time on something that you know is going to be well-made if nothing else, right? You can't make a level playing field w/ 1000+ new perfumes a year or you'll never manage to get through a reasonable percentage of new product.
I must confess that DTB didn't strike me as particularly odd. I'm not a Violet fan, and I felt something like a spiced soapy stage which I usually don't like much (there was something in the drydown that was very similar to “reverie du jardin” that was diffusing from my other wrist) so I didn't find any of the two particularly compelling, Both were interesting though, and definetly not static! But I'm not an expert – and I definetely didn't get the mushrooms!!
BTW, I must add that my boyfriend, who usually is very tepid about my perfume quests, fell in love with DTB – he thought it really smelled like skin and target the perfume as overtly sexy (spicy-violet-sopay sexy? who would have imagined?). I'm wondering if it's because he uconsciously perceived the mushrooms: he loves them – to eat!
Ah, gotcha.
Zazie, how nice!
And I'm no expert either. I do live near mushroom farms, though, and this isn't exactly that smell — which is, frankly, horrid.
i have fond memories of visiting my uncle's mushroom farm when i was growing up! but you're right, dans tes bras doesn't smell like that. i'm not sure if i liked it either. the salesperson described it to me as smelling like warm, salty skin (something where people who smell it would compliment your personal scent, not your perfume), but well, i might not have come to that conclusion had he not told me. however, it didn't last very long on me, so i might have to give it another shot before i decide!
It really does seem weather-dependent, and I wish I'd paid more attention to that — at least once, I could hardly smell it. Other times it lasted quite well and was reasonably strong.
SO JEALOUS.
Just had a chance to spritz it at lunch. I've been a wine critic for almost two decades, and the first thing I thought of was: 5-year-old Cabernet Franc from the Loire. It has the same cool, metallic notes, the same slightly earthy quality, the identical murky violet. It is “delicious.” I'd wear it with a pair of grilled lamb chops with rosemary and lemon!
How interesting…wouldn't have thought of wine but that makes sense. If I wasn't already covered in smells I'd try it again.
Would you wear it as a perfume, though?
Put me down in the very much in love with it category. I also experienced what Robin and others did with the change in weather. The first day I wore it it was the last day of Indian Summer and it seemed like the earthy notes were more forward. The next day a cold front moved through and with the temp 20 degrees colder this came off more woodsy and sweet with the violet more prominent. On me both days it was really nice. I'm also in the camp that says this is the most interesting release of the year because I can't compare it to anything else out there. Smells good on me and unique is a potent combo for me. 🙂
Wish I could remember the weather on the day I could hardly smell it at all — I need to keep better notes!
Hi SeanD, and welcome! Sorry you didn't love it — I don't either — but I think in general the FM brand has done really astonishing things so I'd forgive them this one, don't you think? Really doubt this is the future of fragrance, and also, even though I don't love it, I can't argue with those who have asserted above that it's arguably the most interesting release of the year.
Thanks for the warm welcome. I agree with you that Frederic Malle has been an amazing niche brand. I can't wait to see what is next.
I'm hoping for jasmine or incense, or both! But we'll have to wait and see. And I wish he'd do another scent w/ Sophia Grojsman for the regular line instead of for the Barney's Coop.
But you know, he never asks me 😉
alotofscents,
I've read that men find the smell of vanilla, sugar and cinnamon a turn on.
Well-put, R. My sentiments exactly. I actually found DTB very easy to like, without having to put any brain-power into “getting” it, so I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. So true, though, that knowing the brains behind it is a good reason to keep it in the purgatory basket instead of just dismissing it outright if it doesn't hit the spot the first time. I think FM and MR have earned their second chances; like a difficult piece of music, if it's from Mahler, it could be just a bit of a stretch and then, bingo, we hear the genius — and stretching is good exercise!
Yes, absolutely! I like the Ginestets for the same reason, and they're all wine-based: Sauternes (Botrytis), white Bordeaux (Sauvignon) and red Bordeaux (Boise). Dans tes Bras is a little more austere, a little less edible, more redolent of earth and skin, but I actually like that — even prefer it. Damn, I'm starting to lemming a whole bottle. . .
Seriously, I think FM has earned it possibly more than any other brand I can think of — much lower percentage of duds than anyone else, even SL.
Hey Robin: Just wanted to stop back and say I got my sample the other day and I think this is a beautiful scent…. BUT, it's incredibly sheer and short lived. Since my skin just eats up so many scents, I couldn't see springing for this at full price, but if I had it, I'd sure love to spray with abandon. I find it very meditative and relaxing — very nice. I love exactly the type of sheer, dry violet that comes through from this, as well as the most amazing skin scent (no mushrooms!).
Of course my criticism of the whole “conceptual perfumery” thing was mostly general and not about FM or this creation (obviously, as I hadn't smelled it). However, it's still hard for me to spend a lot of money on something that's so sheer and thus would neeed to be reapplied so often. I loved experiencing it though and it's sure sample-worthy.
Joe, honestly, try it some more, and on days w/ different weather. I had that same experience one time that I wore it, but most other days, it lasted through the day.
Just as an interesting experience, I sampled the “men’s” line of Malle fragrances at Barney’s yesterday being quite sure that I was going to walk away with a bottle of Vetiver Extraordinaire (vetiver lover that I am). After going through about 8 or so (including Noir Epices, Musc Ravageur, the Vetiver, etc) I selected Dans Tes Bras. Why? It was by far the most interesting and utterly unique of the lineup before me. I had smelled nothing like it, and I certainly owned nothing like it, whereas the rest smelled like other things I had either owned or smelled already. Funny how these things work out, eh? Captivating.
And did you not really love Vetiver Extraordinaire, then?
Do agree that the DTB is unusual. It’s still hanging around in my purgatory basket, I should pull it out and try it again.
I did like it, and I also have a sample they gave me, so I’ll certainly be exploring it more in the future. It just reminded me of things I’d smelled elsewhere, which was a little surprising. Maybe it’s because the vetiver, cedar, and citrusy notes are featured in lots of men’s fragrances? I’m just having a hard time topping Encre Noir. It was the same story with Chanel’s Sycomore.
It is true that there are now many, many fragrances directly focused on vetiver, and they’re all just variations on a theme. Happily it’s a theme I love, so I don’t mind…but can see finding them superfluous.
True- thankfully it’s a note I enjoy as well and am always happy to smell a good vetiver.
It’s so incredible. I instantly was reminded of an old Alexander McQueen fragrance that I can’t find anymore. It’s from 20 years ago at least. It’s “sex in a bottle” or as my best friend who has worked in cosmetics and fragrance dubbed it affectionally(McQueen’s) “hints of ballsack” this is a more seductive Sex in a bottle to me. Wearing it out to the girl bar for a test….I LOVE this Parfum. So brilliant.