This week's subject is Ksenia, who has been sampling like mad this year but finding that her "success rate" is not so hot: she's yet to sample a perfume that she'd like to buy in a full size. She wants to find something "interesting and special", and was hoping we could give her some assistance in planning her next sample orders from Aedes and Beautyhabit.
Here is what we know about Ksenia:
She is in her 30s and has one young child.
She lives in Northern California, where it is dry much of the time and there are only minimal seasonal changes in the weather.
She describes her personal style as "fairly subdued"; she is not looking to "make a statement" with her clothes or her perfume.
She looks best in cool tones, and is also drawn to "cool" fragrances.
She loves the outdoors (hiking, backpacking).
Ksenia likes earthy/woody florals that are cool rather than sweet, and she also likes green chypres — two of her favorite fragrances are Yves Saint Laurent Y and Jean Luis Scherrer. She would like to find new fragrances that are understated yet confident, and quietly elegant without being stuffy. She does not like prominent citrus, fruity or gourmand notes, over-the-top florals, heavy orientals or too much musk.
Ksenia has recently purchased a number of fragrances unsniffed:
Gianfranco Ferre, which she bought by mistake after confusing the name with Jean Louis Scherrer. It is "too floral" but she might wear it as a special occasion perfume for summer outdoor events.
Patou Forever: "The opening is like being hit with a bowl of fruit salad over your head, but the drydown is not too bad." Ksenia is using this one to scent her dryer sheets.
Hermes Hiris: "Instant love", although she isn't thrilled with the staying power.
Prada Infusion d'Iris: "Lovely, more crisp and transparent (and a touch sweeter) than Hiris."
And some of the perfumes she has sampled recently...
L'Artisan Premier Figuier (regular and Extreme): too much coconut.
L'Artisan La Chasse Aux Papillons: a "romantic floral"; not her style.
L'Artisan L'Eau d'Ambre & Tea For Two: neither scent was to her taste.
Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Nil: "not very memorable".
Hermès Caleche: "ouch, the soap!"
Hermès Kelly Caleche: "shrill fizzy leather".
Hermès Terre d'Hermes: "too masculine".
Serge Lutens A la Nuit, Fleurs d'Oranger and Fleurs de Citronnier, all too floral/not quite right, Miel de Bois ("eek!") and Douce Amere ("sweet and medicinal").
Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge: her favorite of the Serge Lutens she has tried, but she is not lemming a full bottle.
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Figue-Iris: "too jammy and botanical".
Amouage Jubilation 25: a "special occasion scent only".
Bvlgari Omnia Crystalline: "too musky".
Keiko Mecheri Gourmandises: "too cough syrup".
What say you? My recommendations:
My top picks are all by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, a perfumer who tends towards an understated style that could be a perfect match for Ksenia, and who handles iris notes beautifully: L'Artisan Dzongkha, Eau d'Italie Sienne L'Hiver and/or Paestum Rose. Note that Eau d'Italie is listed under "Le Sirenuse" at Aedes.
Aede's new Une Histoire de Chypre is also very much worth trying, as is The Different Company Bois d'Iris. I don't know if Ksenia likes incense, but for some reason after reading her "profile" one of the first scents that came to mind was Comme des Garçons Ouarzazate.
And not at Aedes or Beautyhabit, but fragrances Ksenia might seek out in the future include Bond no. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory, Divine L'Homme de Coeur, Caron Alpona (although I hear wildly varying things about its reformulation), Chanel 28 La Pausa and 31 Rue Cambon, Antonia's Flowers Tiempe Passate. And if she can get her hands on it, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, of course.
Note: image is a cropped version of Letter box by rgtmum at flickr; some rights reserved.
The new Pucci Vivara, VERY California!
The first scent that springs to mind is one I haven't tried yet, but want to: The Different Company Sublime Balkiss.
“Cool” fragrance, hmm. I think of Andree Putman Preparation and Lisa Simon Monsoon Season … both “crisp and transparent” and reminiscent of the northwoods to me … hope these help! xoxo
MPG Iris Bleu Gris (for men). Has that lovely cool powdery iris combined with a crisp strong stalky green notes, but nothing in it comes across as masculine aside from the fact that it is a strong green scent, which she already likes.
As a fellow hiker, I would have to recommend Chanel #18 (warm and dry) AND #19 (cool and green). I wear 18 while hiking all the time, and 19 is my go-to confidence-building scent. I don't know how Ksenia feels about violet, but I LOVE The Unicorn Spell by LesNEZ. VERY green on me…
Thanks! Ksenia, at many department stores.
Cheater, LOL! I want to try that too, wish it would get to the US already 🙂
Both great calls, thanks M! More crisp & transparent — Cinq Mondes Eau Egyptienne, also at beautyhabit.
I need to try that again myself, thanks!
The Unicorn Spell is so lovely. Wish they'd do an “Intense” version!
This one is tough- these fragrances seem cool to me: Guerlain Vetiver and L'heure Bleue (is the EdP less powdery than the EdT?), L'artisan Voleur de Roses and Timbuktu, Andy Warhol Silver Factory, Chanel bois de Isles, SL Daim Blond…worth a shot
Also, I second the Tiempe Passat (lovely and understated) and for $5 you can get a sample of all of the Antonia's Flowers line (shipping included) AND a coupon code to apply the money to a full bottle purchase if you so choose- hard to turn down
Here are my two cents –
I can't help myself – how about Annick Goutal Heure Exquise? The very natural, dry sandalwood & and the nice simple iris seem to be up her alley. I don't ever get much of the rose out of this one, so it may not be too floral-y for her. It is definitely “quiet” and can be worn for a lot of situations.
And my out there kind of pick – Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel – I think this is an amazing natural outdoorsy type of fragrance, if the rosemary/sage is agreeable. It reminds me of the wild salty natural landscape of Greece, so hey, how about Northern CA? This is a very “I've been hiking in the sage brush all day” kind of fragrance to me. She might like it….It's definitely not a floral!
Happy Monday!
If Ksenia loves Jean Luis Scherrer, she may really love Wrappings by Clinique, they are really similar, Wrappings is even more crisp/clean without being sweet/powdery. Wrappings is only available during the holiday season.
My second rec would be Bond No 9 Coney Island, same crisp freshness, not too heady, but a little softer in the drydown than Wrappings.
She seemed to tolerate “Prada Infusion D'Iris” well–perhaps “The Unicorn Spell” by LesNez? Its opening might be odd for many, but it dries down into something more smooth than sweet and could be appreciated by someone who enjoys earthier scents. How about SL's “Gris Clair”? The opening is pretty masculine but it dries down into a leathery sweetness that can be worn well by both men and women. For something not too sweet but fresh, she might also try “Inis Or”.
Yes! “The Unicorn Spell” might suit her.
I'd suggest trying Diorella.
Maybe also look more to things classically catagorized as men's frags like Vetyver by Givenchy or unisex like Hermessence Vetiver Tonka. Cool & woody but not too masculine.
Chanel #19 jumped in my head immediately while reading this post. L'Artisan Passage d'Enfer is another one to try.
I was wondering about vetiver too. Ksenia, you might try the Guerlain, and also perhaps a less citrusy version like Givenchy Vetyver.
And both at her target stores, thanks!
Happy Monday to you!
Ksenia, the Unicorn Spell is at luckyscent.
What's “Inis Or”?
Diorella is a great chypre, and might suit. Easily found. Ksenia, the Hermessence you'll find at Hermes boutiques only.
I do wish we knew if Ksenia liked incense! Passage d'Enfer might be perfect.
My first instinct was if Ksenia likes cool and crisp and has a love of Hiris (which I also adore), then it sounds as if a cool Giacobetti fragrance could do the trick. How about FM En Passant or L'Eau de L'Artisan? To me L'Artisan The Pour En Ete also has a green, slightly woody quality too. I also thought Chanel no 19 would be good. And if we are talking violets and iris, I must just give honourable mention to Apres L'Ondee, even though it isn't woody or green at all.
You are so lucky that Unicorn Spell smells good on you! On me it just smells like pickle water. I would have loved to tell people that I was wearing a perfume called Unicorn Spell, but alas I think they would run away before I had the chance 🙂
What about Miller & Bertaux's No. 3 – Green, green, green? It's not a green chypre, but it's a lovely green, with a nice, transparant woody-floral drydown. It's also available at Aedes.
My first thoughts before scrolling down as far as Robin's recs were La Pausa and 31 Rue Cambon. I am wearing both today, along with Bois des Iles and Cuir de Russie – and am feeling most exclusive as a result. I know they are all ludicrous prices, but if Ksenia was happy with a decant they might well suit.
Haven't smelled the Lisa Simon, but the Andree Putnam is definitely a good rec. Woody, transparent and rather zen…a bit like a non-spicy Navegar. Dzongkha is a great rec too.
I thought that too! But I couldn't bear to recommend La Pausa, since as you know, I don't like it… 31 Rue Cambon is gorgeous though. Yes, you are a very exclusive lady 😉
Ksenia, the En Passant that Farah mentions above is by Frederic Malle, and only at Barneys in the US at the moment.
Vanessa, all great scents!
One of my favorites!
Yes, I've been looking at this one actually! I'm adding this to my list. ~Ksenia (PS — I'm at work and going through the comments backwards. Will comment more later today)
Looks like there is a Barneys in San Francisco — this is about 50 miles away from me and I hardly get there these days. But I keep hearing about En Passant, so maybe worth a trip (would be a nice diversion!)
Honestly, I don't know! I'm originally from Russia and if incense is the smell you get in a Russian Orthodox Church, then I'm not so sure. Church always intimidated me. Perhaps, the rendering in perfume is different. Robin recommended on from Aedes or Beautihabit, so I'll try one or too, if there are any that you guys feel would be a fit. Thanks! ~Ksenia
Earthy, woody, cool -Eau De Cartier Concentree is a gorgeous every day perfume which might work
Wrapping sounds interesting. Worth a try if I happen to be at the mall over the holidays. Hmm, not sure if that would happen 🙂 I dislike malls, especially on holidays.
I read Robin's Coney Island review recently, and it did not quite appeal to me then. I should look at it again.
~Ksenia
It's interesting what you posted about Infusion d'Iris opening. To me, it smells of a paperback left out in the sun on a hot day (it's odd but not in an unpleasant way).
The Unicorn Spell sounds wonderful. Gris Clair is interesting; I'll put it on my list, but the masculine opening is a concern. Although I think it's marketed as unisex?
~Ksenia
I found Wrappings at EBay and Wrappings hits Clinique counters on Oct 1. I forgot to mention, it lasts forever on the skin (on me anyway).
At first I was gonna scream: Hiris! Infusion D'Iris! But I see she has already tried them both… I would recommend trying Iris Nobile but I'd want to make sure that ishe knows it's very floral. Something else that could make a good imression on her would be Boucheron Jaipur Sapphir. It is a beautiful oriental, with some woodsy notes but it does reminds You of a “sapphire” color/tone which of course tends to be cooler. Now I haven't tried it yet, but I know that L'Artisan has a new one called Fleur de Liane? From my understand it is not available yet, but it's suppost to be a cooler, vegetal, earthy floral…
Cabotine by Gres!!!! Green Chypre! Very unique perfume, beautiful ginger-lily chypre scent!
I will second Robin's recommendations of Bois d'Iris and Dzongkha — both terrific scents. And yes to another commenter's recommendation of Timbuktu.
To these, I'd add plugs to at least sample Chanel Sycomore and L'Artisan Bois Farine (though this might cross the line into “too gourmand”?). Also, overexposed though it is, Ksenia might want to test D&G Light Blue for the heck of it.
What about Gucci Envy??
It is indeed your decant of La Pausa I am wearing – it has gone to a good – and grateful – home!
Just thought – staying with the Exclusifs, what about Bel Respiro? Cool and very green indeed! There's also PG's Bois Blond, though maybe that is more hay. Slightly odd hay, even. But nicely offbeat and it fits the outdoorsy theme.
There is one in SF, it's located in the old FAO Schwartz store, on the corner.
Their fragrance SA's are terriffic. I was looking for a new & different scent, and the SA was right on target with his recommendations, (I purchased SL Daim Blonde) and they were generous with the samples as well.
Incense in perfume is quite different that the incense used in the Orthodox church. Even though the OC incense changes fragrance according to the Liturgical calendar. (From one Russian Orthodox girl to another!)
The HE dry oil is especially nice, if she can find it.
“Ksenia likes earthy/woody florals that are cool rather than sweet, and she also likes green chypres”
How about the cool, classic, woody-green French elegance of Ivoire de Balmain?
I like EdC, great summer scent!
I think Liane won't be out until October…can't wait to try it myself!
I thought about Bois Farine too…couldn't decide if it verged on too weird. I love it, but so many people describe it as peanut butter + pencil shavings!
There's an Hermes boutique in SanFran. Ksenia, if you decide to make a trip to SF to the Barneys you might also stop at Hermes. Also stop at the Saks for the biggest selection of Dior frags in the city (only they carry Diorella in SF, though its widely available online).
My recs:
Two from CB I Hate Perfume: Violet Empire (cool floral, not too sweet) and Black March (earthy and cool)
Eureka! Another one, oft-overlooked, would be Montale Fougere Marine. The “marine” is not aquatic; it's fresh, breezy, crisp. The notes include
fern, lavender, geranium, patchouli and oakmoss, and it's surprisingly feminine. The lasting power — I remember Ksenia being dismayed by Hiris — is excellent.
Le Labo Iris 39 came to my mind first, followed by Bond No. 9 Riverside Drive and Diptyque Virgilio. What about Parfums de Nicolai Odalisque or Comme des Garcons 3? Tauer L'Air du Desert Marocain may be too “warm” but is very very worth trying.
I completely agree with Vanessa! Bel Respiro is such a beautiful summer green fragrance. Not woodsy but a soft, lovely green. Bois Blond is an interesting suggestion. I certainly adore it, but it is warm and a bit rich from the amber, cereal and tobacco notes. Outdoorsy and wonderful though!
Finally, I am home and my sun safely in bed! Now I can properly respond to comments.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. So many great fragrances, so little time! I have tons of leads to pursue, so that would keep me busy for a while.
~Ksenia
PS — I love the colors in the mail box picture. They are so me! Thanks, Robin!
I'll have to try Vivara; sounds interesting! ~Ksenia
I'll wait for Robin to review it first. Sounds like a lot of patchouli! ~Ksenia
Dzongkha is definitely on the list. I will add the other too; I can get a sample from beautyhabit.They sound intriguing. ~Ksenia
Sounds interesting! Adding to my sample list. ~Ksenia
Adding Unicorn to the sample list (luckyscent), and will have to try Chanels at the store. ~Ksenia
I've seen Jean Louis Scherrer compared to #19, so I should definitely try that one. ~Ksenia
And the Chanel Sycomore! When I wear it I smell the outdoors: resinous trees and a hint of woodsmoke.
Tiempe Passate sounds wonderful — cedar and iris, earthy and dry. Can't beat their web offer — yay, more samples! Thanks for the great tip. The others I may have to look for at the mall (Nordrsrom's maybe?) ~Ksenia
Hmm, Fleurs de Sel seems to be out at beautyhabit; did not see it at luckscent either. Maybe they'll get it back later. I love the “I've been hiking through sage brush…” imagery. I would try it if I could!
I've tried one Annick Goutal and was not impressed — it was Eau de Ciel — very simple, almost childish. But I'm willing to give Heure Exquise a try.
How about Miller Harris – Terre de Bois Eau de Toilette? Worth a try?
~Ksenia
I will make a sacrifice and will visit the mall in Oct! ~Ksenia
Ah they closed FAO Schwartz! Now that I have a kid, they shut is down… Oh well. Will be worth a trip; I've not been to Union Square in years (shame on me – living in the bay area!) ~Ksenia
Wow, another set of reasons to visit San Francisco! Although when sampling in store, I poop out after two or three fragrances. I will have to ask for samples to take with me. ~Ksenia
I used to visit the church maybe once or twice a year, such as for Easter (at the cemetery). So not the most “sunny” associations! But I will try a few incense fragrances, just to find out. I did not see Robin-recommended Ouarzazate at beatyhabit (they are out perhaps?), but I heard that Zagorsk is also very interesting. I will give that one a try. ~Ksenia
Passage d'Enfer is listed as a masculine scent at L'Arisan. I'll put it on the list as a potential. ~Ksenia
Definitely En Passant has “crossed my path” — I may have to go to theperfumedcourt for this, or aforementioned Barneys. I looked at the two L'Artisan scents “on paper”, but they did not quite appeal to me from reading the descriptions and the reviews. I'll put them on the 'backup' list. ~Ksenia
I will have to research Bel Respiro and Bois Blond. Bel Respiro sounds interesting. How does it compare to YSL Y? Robin's review reminded me of Y (apart from the price difference!). ~Ksenia
I've seen Eau De Cartier as a sample in online stores, but not Concentree. Are they very different? ~Ksenia
I will look for an online sample of this one. ~Ksenia
Yes, “peanut butter + pencil shavings” description stopped me from ordering a sample! 🙂 Maybe in a few years, when my taste is more developed. ~Ksenia
The “hate” part does not inspire confidence. 🙂 Are they “weird,” or this is more of a pose, and the perfumes themselves are actually okay? ~Ksenia
Adding Ivoire de Balmain to my ever growing list. Although does French elegance mean aldehydes? I don't seem to like them from what I can tell. Caleche and Ferre are both aldehydic fragrances, and they seem “fussy” to me. ~Ksenia
Wow, 6 recommendations in just 3 lines! Le Labo 39 has been on my mind, I'm actually thinking of ordering a decant from the perfumedcourt. Will add the other 5 to my “have to research” list! ~Ksenia
Wow, I have about 60 recommendations to think about! I'm putting them all in a spreadsheet, and will be figuring out where to get what from. Sounds like two sample orders coming up very soon, plus a third one from Antonia's flowers.
Thanks again everyone!
~Ksenia
I have a couple of the CB I Hate Perfume scents and they are pretty nice. There is a fair amount of info on Christopher Brosius in the “Noses” section here. His scents can inspire pretty lavish sense-memory reviews. I have At the Beach 1966 and Fire From Heaven, neither of which would probably suit you.
If you find you like vetiver, you might also try Comme des Garcons Vetiverru – it's a little sparklier than some of the others but still earthy. MPG Racine is a nice vetiver as well.
Ksenia: I just want to say that I love Zagorsk — I didn't expect it to be the one I loved most when I sampled all five of the Comme des Garcons incense series, but it's the one I loved most and the one I bought first (I also want almost all the others though). It's fresh and clean and to me perfect for brisk, cool weather (I'm in Central California, but I don't wear it much at this time of year). It may be a bit too masculine for you, and definitely has a pine/balsam vibe that some find hard to take (I've heard it described as “cold incense” or even “too cold”) but if you're curious about it, you definitely should sample it.
I won't try to convince you of the beauty of Bois Farine (I get a hint of peanut butter but not pencil shavings!), but I've been surprised that it's one of the scents I receive the most compliments on when wearing. As Robin says in her review of it, it evokes the scent of a sweet pastry dough, which sounds weird, but to me it's sort of a very creamy-woody-earthy scent with some very subtle floral overtones.
Sorry Ksenia, I am not familiar with “Y”, but you have made me curious now to check it out!
I have Memory of Kindness (c/o Farah) and it is pretty weird. Unless you aspire to smell like a tomato.
No, Miss K, no aldehydes, not fussy; in fact, less fussy than Scherrer!! Think of that, but a little loosened-up, fresher. Hope you like it.
R
Ksenia:
I hope you will still give HE a chance. It is also a similar fragrance to Chanel No 19, which is also recommended to you here. For the most part I do not like many of AG fragrances becuase they become either too green-grass for me, or as you say, too childish. I do not like Petit Cherie, Folavril, Quel Amour, etc…. Heure Exquise is very different from most of her female fragrances, and I definitely think this could be a unisex fragrance. At first I was surprised by it because I'd been testing her others which are more grand and dramatic. – Songes on one arm & HE on the other – big difference!! It is very simple & beautiful. It's definitely not a fragrance that would “wear you”. It is quite lovely, so give it a sniff if you can.
Fleurs de Sel – I think it's just amazing, so I hope one way or the other you get a chance to try it. It is really something different – wind whipped, aromatic. Do try and get a sample of it, if you can. I've never tried Terre de Bois, so I have no comment. One piece of advice about Miller Harris – definitely try and sample these first, because as some other reviewer stated on some other blog (or this one) Harris' fragrances tend to be a bit shape shifting. This is really true, and you may like one part of the opening and despise it later on….Especially for the cost, you want to make sure.
Good luck!
I've tried Terre de Bois which Lyn Harris intended to be the scent of a “gorgeous Frenchman”. It was ages ago but I remember it as a citrussy vetiver or greeny scent that could be unisex. I didn't get that “overtly male” astringent note to it that some male-only colognes have. So it could be good for you.
And I second that Heure Exquise is exquise, regardless of where one stands on violets. Which could apply to most of my back garden in fact, where weeds and ground cover are running rampant.
They are the same but the concentree has better staying power
Hi Ksenia! Just a late contribution to the discussion… I, too, live in Northern CA, and there is something about Fleurs de Sel that calls out to me. To my nose, it has a beautiful balance of grassy/shrubby plant notes, a quiet natural-smelling rose, and salty ocean air.
I also second the nomination of Eau de Cartier (sorry to everyone else – I know I've been a broken record in my praise of this one!). I think Nordstrom would have it to test. I think you said you hate malls – me too!!! – but it might be worth braving one to check out some of the recs you've received.
Wishing you the best in your quest!
I do like the Le Labo Iris very much as well.
Also, a few doors down from the Hermes is the Diptyque boutique, which might have something you'd like (such as Philosykos)
Okay, you convinced me! I'll give Heure Exquise a try. May have to go to perfumedcourt for Fleurs de Sel. I was hoping to avoid that site — too many temptations! ~Ksenia
Don't know where I stand on vetiver. So probably Terre de Bois will be on the backburner for a while. ~Ksenia
I will definitely have to try Fleurs de Sel now. Eau de Cartier sounds interesting too, although I wonder if may be too citrus'y? ~Ksenia
Is there such a thing as “soft or earthy incense”, if Zagorsk may be too harsh? As an aside, it seems appropriate that a Russian-themed incense is cold/harsh; just as I remember the motherland 🙂 ~Ksenia
Your description makes Bois Farine sound “sample-worthy” :-). I'm putting it on the 'maybe' list. ~Ksenia
Wow, another one to add to my ever growing list! ~Ksenia
I will check these out, thanks! ~Ksenia
Hi! Eau de Cartier has a subtle citrus at the beginning. I don't like strong or overly bright citrus fragrances, but I like the freshness and coolness that a little citrus lends to this one.
Yes, I know exactly what you mean. My head explodes when I think of how much I've spent on testers. But in the end it's always been so much fun – like Xmas all year round when those little packages slip through my mail slot! I think perfumed court and other sample providers are just about a lifesaver because I have no access to a good perfume counter, and also hate malls! Definitely saved me from a few un-sniffed tragedies, and allowed me access to some $$ fragrances that I'd never be able to afford otherwise.
RE: incense…..Sonoma Scent Studio has a number of lovely fragrances that feature a very soft incense. One of them, Champagne de Bois, has a lovely incense note. It reminds me very much of the Greek Orthodox incense that some girlfriends of mine used to burn in the little student apartment we all lived in Athens. It has that more soft, woodsy type of incense than the “I've just been in church” etc. incense.
SSS perfumer, Laurie Erickson, really has a way with the incense, and also natural woody notes, like labdanum and cedar. Someday, you may check those out. She is in Healdsburg, CA – maybe a nice fieldtrip for you?
Reposted to remove long link (stretched the page)
On August 6, 2008 kess said:
I bought Y based on Robin's review alone:
It was spot on! I was a bit apprehensive to try it (having bought it blind), given that it was developed in 1964, but it feels timeless to me, nothing stuffy or 'dated.' ~Ksenia
Reply to this comment
I like “zen”… we all need a little zen in our lives. Interestingly enough, I did get sample of Navegar, but have not tried it yet. ~Ksenia