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The Monday Mail ~ help Tracy find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 14 July 2008 52 Comments

This week, our victim is Tracy. Tracy is married and has one young child, and here are a few more details about her:

She's in her 30s and works full-time in a corporate environment.

She describes herself as "fun and a little off-beat", and "stylish and worldly".

She "gravitates toward sexiness in her appearance", but also thinks of herself as funky and/or edgy.

Tracy would like to find her perfect scent, and while she's at it, she wouldn't mind also finding a crazy-sexy scent for evening wear. She has not specified any price limits or other restrictions. Here are the fragrances she currently has in rotation:

L by Lolita Lempicka: she loves this one — it's her favorite of her current collection. But, she finds that it does not last long enough, and the "simple vanilla" drydown is not as attractive to her as the leathery heart notes.

Crabtree & Evelyn Nantucket Briar: her second favorite, she really loves this one.

Estee Lauder Intuition: the start is too citrusy, and the dry down too sweet.

Burberry Brit: she doesn't love it, but it suits for work days.

Burberry Weekend: she finds she is growing out of this one (too sweet) but she still wears it sometimes.

Reminiscence 2000 Ans D'Amour: a strong scent, with lots of patchouli. She likes this one, but it's too much for everyday use. She wears it when she wants to "exert her individuality".

Laura Biagotti Tempore Donna: she likes this one, but not enough to buy again.

Tracy does not like rose, "fresh, clean" fragrances or citrus. Here are a few perfumes she has tried recently:

Agent Provocateur Maitresse: this one is "just floral" — she'd like a little darkness and mystery.

Gucci by Gucci: close but no cigar. She'd like more leather, patchouli or wood.

Jean Patou Joy: too floral.

Chanel Cuir de Russie: she doesn't like the top notes, but she does like the dry down. She might wear it occasionally if she owned it.

What say you?

I considered Guerlain's Cuir Beluga (soft vanilla and suede) and Caron's Tabac Blond (vanilla and smoky leather), but decided the Cuir Beluga might be too gauzy and light, and the Tabac Blond might be just too much. Then Kenzo Flower Oriental came to mind. It was released as a limited edition but it's still for sale (I saw it just yesterday at Nordstrom), and while there's no leather, the combination of powdery florals with the deep woody incense dry down might suit Tracy. Bvlgari Black is another distinct possibility, although I'm worried that she might find the top notes edgier than she'd like. If Tracy smells Black and finds it intriguing rather than difficult, she ought to try L'Artisan Dzing! as well.

And three more interesting, sophisticated vanillas that might be worth a shot: L'Artisan Vanilia, Vanille Tonka by Parfums de Nicolaï, Annick Goutal Vanille Exquise, although I'm not sure that any of the three has the kind of lasting power Tracy is looking for.

Note: image old letterbox via gin_able at flickr, some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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52 Comments

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  1. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 10:29 am

    Parfum d'Empire's Cuir Ottoman sounds like Tracy's kind of thing. leather, vanilla and iris.

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  2. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 10:30 am

    Micallef Note Vanille comes to mind immediately I think she'll love this one and it's more complex than L de Lolita. I would also suggest Gucci Eau De Parfum I from 2002 (see through bottle, brown juice), and Guerlain Samsara in parfum or EDP, but not in EDT. Also Guerlain Spirituese Double Vanille might be worth a shot, YSL Cinema the original EDP if she can still find it, Lalique Le Parfum. Maybe even Molinard Habanita ? Viktor & Rolf Flowebomb Extreme is vanilla & patchouli on me. And Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is worth a try too.

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  3. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 10:34 am

    adding Guerlian Shalimar.

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  4. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 10:44 am

    All great recs, thanks! S-ex is a great scent, and Jules, if she can find it, is also wonderful. Yatagan — yes, bold! Givenchy Pi is another possibility on the men's aisle.

    Tracy, Yatagan is by Caron, Jules is by Christian Dior.

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  5. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 10:45 am

    Great call! Tracy, you can get samples at aedes, beautyhabit, luckyscent or your-cosmetics, and between those 4 stores you can also find all the niche perfumes I recommended above.

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  6. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 10:47 am

    I thought of the Guerlain SDV, but isn't it gone already? Tracy, it was a limited edition and when it was still around, could be found at Bergdorf Goodman in NY. They will also have the Cuir Beluga, if you decide you want to try that. The decant website theperfumedcourt probably has samples of both for sale, and they'd probably have the Tom Ford too.

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  7. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 10:59 am

    I am wearing Micallef's Note Vanille right now and it is *so* gorgeous. I found Guerlain's SDV a tad more masculine than this one, but they are very similar. She must enjoy pipe tobacco to like either of these. If you like Escada Collection you'll like these. I am thinking FM's Musc Ravageur. Oil style. Much more sexy than the above cozy. Good luck!

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  8. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 11:08 am

    As far as a lasting vanille is concerned – how about Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens? For leather she might also try Knize Ten. (And what would happen if you layered them?)

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  9. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 11:25 am

    For a heavy, supposedly seashore fragrance, how about Dune? If you could find Guerlain's Ylang & Vanille, it is a very tasteful, light rendition of vanilla.

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  10. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 11:32 am

    yes, you might be right about SDV, I forgot that it was a LE !!

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  11. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 11:38 am

    Anything from Tom Ford's Private Collection is worth a sniff.

    Same goes for Nu, it can be found at private discounters

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  12. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 11:58 am

    Tracy, the Micallef is at luckyscent, and I think they'll have samples for sale as well.

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  13. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 11:59 am

    Hey, UBV might work. Tracy, you should be able to get a sample at Aedes. My mind is blank on Knize Ten — I mean, I've smelled it but can't think of who sells it — do you know, Bradamante?

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  14. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 12:00 pm

    Tracy, Dune is by Christian Dior. That particular Guerlain is discontinued if I remember correctly?

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  15. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 12:14 pm

    Guerlain's Samsara comes to my mind, but maybe it could be too loud for work…? Robin, I agree with you on Black. I think it is a modern, chic,and unique smell for work.

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  16. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 12:17 pm

    Guerlain SDV was limited but I thought they added it to their main collection now because it was so popular…I think that one and PdN Vanille tonka would be good. Also Guerlain attrape coeur, maybe ZenZero and Frapin 1270 would be worth trying.

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  17. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 12:18 pm

    What about Stoned, by Solange. Or Cashmere for Women by Christiano Fissore?

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  18. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 12:24 pm

    Or layered it with SL Daim Blonde? Beautiful suede note.

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  19. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 12:55 pm

    Daim Blond is another great scent. Tracy, that's another Serge Lutens, and you can find samples at Aedes.

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  20. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 12:56 pm

    Tracy, that's your 2nd vote for Samsara!

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  21. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 12:58 pm

    Ah, maybe they did! I haven't been attention.

    The Frapin is sadly out of production for now. Guerlain Attrape Coeur is hard to find, but theperfumedcourt should have samples. And I'm assuming you mean i Profumi di Firenze Zenzero? Tracy, you can buy a sample at beautyhabit.

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  22. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 12:59 pm

    Tracy, samples of both of those could be found at luckyscent.

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  23. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 1:28 pm

    Ah, good call on the Neonatura Cocoon. Tracy, you can buy a mini from yvesrocher.com for about $3.

    The CdG Tar — samples at luckyscent or beautyhabit.

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  24. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 1:30 pm

    Outstanding recommendations on the Tabac Blond, Vanilia, and Bulgari Black. On the more edgy side, the smoky, leathery, animal, vanilla enigma of Le Labo Patchouli 24 might suit her taste. An understated Ellena masterpiece like Angeliques sous la Pluie from Malle or Hermessence Poivre Samarcande would be two to consider as well.

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  25. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 1:43 pm

    Hi Tracy,
    I love leather fragrances so I would like to second the suggestions of PdE's Cuir Ottoman and L'Artisan's Dzing. Other good leather scents are Luten's Cuir Mauresque and PdE's Ambre Russe. I'd also like to suggest Onda, a leather-vetiver scent, and Bandit. Both of these are leather scents that would also match your funky/edgy side. Another interesting leather scent is Sonoma Scent Studio's Fireside Intense, a very smoky leather. I just tried this yesterday, and my husband, from across the room, said I smelled gorgeous. I love a fume with silleage! Have fun trying all your new suggestions!

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  26. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 1:58 pm

    Tracy,

    Malle is Frederic Malle, and that line can be found at Barneys, or you might find samples at theperfumedcourt. Or at theposhpeasant, another option for decants & I should have mentioned it earlier.

    The Hermessences can be found at larger Hermes boutiques.

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  27. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 2:05 pm

    Tracy, PdE is Parfum d'Empire, already mentioned above.

    Onda is by Vero Kern, and available only from their website at the moment. Bandit is by Robert Piguet, and Sonoma Scent Studio is an indie line w/ their own website & they do sell samples.

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  28. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 3:33 pm

    I think maybe Kelly Caleche by Hermes? It has leathery notes in it. I have no idea whether she tried regular Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempicka. It's more vanilla-chocolate-anise based fragrance but very nice and it has it's own recognizable style. Dzing! sounds good too.

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  29. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 3:52 pm

    Though it starts as a Citrus, Dior's Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir quickly dries down to a most exotic, soft powdery leather. Very elegant, exotic and somehow anachronistic at the same time. It has surprisingly good lasting power too. It's also completely unisex. I'd LOVE to smell this on a woman…

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  30. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 4:29 pm

    I kind of think D&G Sicily falls nicely between the sexiness and edginess Tracy's after.

    Ida

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  31. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 4:30 pm

    How about Guerlain Plus Que Jamais? (It's another discontinued one, I think, but I also think you can get decants at the perfumed court.) I don't think it has a whole lot of leather in it, but it is definitely earthy – yet also really, really pretty, with a fantastic vanilla/amber drydown. Sweet, but sophisticated. Also, not too loud and stays fairly close to the skin, so I think it would be good for the corporate environment.

    Or how about Hermes – Caleche (old school) or 24, Faubourg (kinda old school but also just gorgeous)?

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  32. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 4:45 pm

    Well I ordered it at a discounter: beautyencounter dot com, Ordered several times over there and it all worked out fine. A sample, however, won't be easy. Tracy, maybe you could have al look at basenotes, to see how other people think about the Knize?

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  33. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 4:47 pm

    Now, there's an idea!

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  34. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 4:49 pm

    Oops, the idea was meant for Lizbeths suggestion of layering Un bois Vanille with Daim Blond (both by Serge Lutens)

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  35. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 4:52 pm

    … or Dior Addict (the original). I feel very sexy in it, and even edgy. Has big lasting power and vanilla notes – in sync with Tracy's inclination?

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  36. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 6:07 pm

    Knize is also available at Les Senteurs. You can order a sample for £2.50. They also have samples of Serge Lutens and Caron.

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  37. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 6:35 pm

    I second the D&G Sicily… and how about Lancome's Magie Noir?

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  38. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 6:45 pm

    I second the idea of Kelly Caleche for the leather. D&G'

    s Sicily is a great sexy, evening scent – i get LOTS of compliments on this one. KenzoAmour might work for day…and maybe Fendi Palazzo? Or SL's Douce Amere? Samples shouldn't be to hard to come by.

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  39. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 7:08 pm

    I've recently purchased Nu at fragrancenet.com. They have both the EDP and EDT.

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  40. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 7:11 pm

    Another possibility for a leather lover is Sonya Rykiel Woman…and you can find it very for a very attractive price on Ebay or at many of the discount sites.

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  41. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 7:13 pm

    Tracy, Kelly Caleche is at Sephora, Neiman Marcus, possibly other department stores.

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  42. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 8:28 pm

    Hi Tracy & Robin,
    I'm probably so late to this post that Tracy has already purchased her new perfumes!
    I just wanted to give a big 2nd (or 3rd or 6th) to all those who said:
    Tabac Blond by Caron
    Frederic Malle Angeliques sous la Pluie
    and Hermes Kelly Caleche
    I'm not sure if anyone mentioned these, but I thought I'd put them out there:
    Jo Malone's Dark Amber & Ginger Lily is a nice woodsy scent (sort of what I wish EL Sensuous had been).
    also Miller Harris Noix de Tubereuse is super sexy fl-oriental that is not obviously tuberose (a little goes a long way)
    and don't forget Ava Luxe Madame X – a favorite of mine and reasonably priced at the Ava Luxe website also Ava Luxe No 23 might be worth a try
    and perhaps Black Cashmere by Donna Karan
    and, this is harder to find, but if you get it you might just fall in love, Narcisse Noir by Caron (the EdP not the EdT).
    Good luck! :-)

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  43. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 9:12 pm

    This is so much fun–everyone is so helpful! I can't wait to try your suggestions!! Thanks for the help!!!

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  44. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 10:04 pm

    Probably the combination of vanilla / “wants more complex” inside the “loves Lolita Lempicka” led me to think of Guerlain Attrape Coeur…and I notice there are a few Guerlain recommedations. Perhaps there's a general “juice” fit with Guerlain?

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  45. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 10:30 pm

    Good point on the Guerlain!

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  46. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 11:24 pm

    Ok given that this is a WOMAN and not a young woman as several of the other cases, I would suggest:

    Il Bacio by Borghese: Feminine, fruity floral, but in Woman-strenght…

    Not suitable for children. Definitely sexy. Changes a lot on the skin.

    Tuscany per Donna by Aramis: Same as above but a LOT drier IMHO.

    Perhaps a little powdery, but this one reminds me of hot rocks in the desert.

    I know these two may be a little (or a LOT) hard to get, but they just sprang into my mind after reading the description of this person, which sounds like very interesting and lively..

    I hope she gets to try these 2!!!!

    Regards

    P.

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  47. Anonymous says:
    14 July 2008 at 11:30 pm

    I saw it on an airport's duty free shop last year in Sanfran & Miami.

    Regards

    P.

    p.s.: I guest it was distributed only for travel?? Could that be?

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  48. Anonymous says:
    15 July 2008 at 1:48 am

    Chiming in with my recommendation for a new scent for Tracy; how about Tom Ford's Black Orchid? I finally bought it this week and seriously, I can't stop sniffing myself…it's just dead sexy! As a passionate wearer of L De Lolita myself (that cinnamon orange saltiness is beyond yummy) I find TFBO similarly intriguing and unusual and practically edible, without being tooth-achingly sweet.

    And I agree on Kelly Caleche for office wear. Although I don't find it quite as leathery as I would wish for, it does have a teensy bit of 'edge'. Or what about one of the earthier Irises – say, TDC's Bois D'Iris – it's my new 'daytime' crush; not too frilly or powdery, and just that little bit different…

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  49. Anonymous says:
    15 July 2008 at 10:58 am

    Does anyone know if TFBO is a Neiman Marcus Exclusive?

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  50. Anonymous says:
    15 July 2008 at 12:26 pm

    Tracy, going back to your favourite of the current bunch, L by Lolita Lempicka. I know that juice very well, and think it's gorgeous, and I understand what you see in it; along those lines of fruit/floral/wood, I would strongly recommend Parfums DelRae's Bois de Paradis: blackcurrant on top, lovely things underneath. It was created by Michel Roudnitska, Edmond's son. Good luck!

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  51. Anonymous says:
    15 July 2008 at 12:55 pm

    Nope, I got it at Sephora and I've tested it at Nordstrom; I've also seen it on Amazon.

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  52. Anonymous says:
    15 July 2008 at 12:56 pm

    Oops, sorry, new at this; I meant to reply to your comment, SFLizbeth! It's on Amazon, at Sephora, etc. ;)

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