The latest fragrance release from Santa Maria Novella is Toscano and, like its two most recent predecessors, Città di Kyoto and Angels of Florence, it is much lighter than the rich, syrupy, “fuel-like” Santa Maria Novella scents I love: Fieno (Hay), Sandalwood, Peau d’Espagne and the dry-as-bone (and mace-y) Marescialla Cologne (La Maréchale or Marshal’s Wife). Change is in the air at Santa Maria Novella; there seems to be a Modernizing Trend at work — the new creations are not in the piquant, artisanal style I associate with the company.
Though Toscano bears an evocative name (its creation was inspired by the famed Toscano cigars of Lucca, Italy) and comes in the old-fashioned Santa Maria Novella bottles, it smells more “American” than Tuscan to me (it is very accessible and ‘easy’ to wear). Toscano is not an attempt to recreate the literal aroma of sigari italiani; Toscano is a more abstract cigar/tobacco cologne. Toscano contains bergamot, jasmine, tobacco, birch leaf, vanilla, burnt malt and amber and is being marketed to men and women. The first two times I wore Toscano, I thought it was boring and was upset to smell a similarity between it and recent (bland) vanilla fragrances, but when I sprayed on a generous amount of Toscano, I liked it more and the tobacco note (which I enjoy) was amplified.
Toscano starts off with an astringent, somewhat floral, and slight tobacco note that slowly intensifies. The cologne’s opening reminds me of the smell of brand-new cardboard cigar boxes that have JUST been emptied of their cigar contents. (I know this aroma well; as a child I always asked for the colorful, empty cigar boxes from a neighborhood grocer and used the fragrant boxes to store my pencils and pens, feathers, stones, bones, shells, dried seed pods and all manner of insect carcasses.) As Toscano develops, I smell faint smoke, a ‘toasted’ (almost foody) vanilla note and an aroma that I’ll describe as amber-y liqueur.
If my description of Toscano leads you to believe it is in ANY way a “strange” or “weird” perfume (I’m always drawn to those), I must warn you that it is not such a scent; Toscano is well blended, develops rather quickly and highlights only a few perfume notes: namely sheer tobacco and sweet vanilla. Toscano is a perfect scent for cool weather and it appealed to many people I know who usually HATE tobacco fragrances. Toscano has good lasting power and minimal sillage.
I understand companies MUST change with the times to stay “relevant” and perhaps Santa Maria Novella needs to release more accessible, mainstream fragrances to continue the production of its older formulas, so I won’t complain about the likeable Toscano as long as the pungent, nose-tingling, ‘antique’ Santa Maria Novella fragrances are available.
In the US, Toscano is $110 for 100 ml. It is available now at lafcony, and will presumably be more widely distributed eventually (see the listing for Santa Maria Novella under Perfume Houses for more retailers). I highly recommend you request the spray apparatus when you buy any Santa Maria Novella cologne; there is usually an additional $3 charge for the atomizer (which, in my opinion, should be a “standard feature” at the prices Santa Maria Novella charges for its colognes).
i love the “antique” smns, as well. as far as the sprayers are concerned, i just found out from a local boutique that carries the line that they are FREE to the stores carrying smn – which means that the stores that charge $3 and $4 for each sprayer are making free money off us. this local boutique is getting the sprayers, so i will no longer frequent the other store that has been charging $4 for them. if there some minimum amount of smn inventory a store has to carry in order for the sprayers to be free, that might explain the discrepancy – the boutique that will have the sprayers for free does carry more product.
Well, everything doesn't have to be a freak show, either. Sometimes I just want some nice, friendly scent that isn't all up in my face, and this sounds perfect. Thanks.
I really liked Toscano. It lingers for a while, never overpowering but it lasts really well for a SMN.
To me, Toscano was very similar to Bvlgari Black, but just with less rubber.
Great review. I do love my SMNs.
Minette: INTERESTING about the sprayers…a friend just wrote me and also said the boutique she buys from does not charge for the sprayers either…I've always paid $3 for mine.
March: agreed…when I think about it my perfumes are almost evenly divided between side-show freaks and the “reserved” types.
MD: I've never had a problem with the lasting power of the SMN scents I buy and love…but I go for the darker ones…and I've been known to spray with wild abandon too. I can smell a resemblance with BB now that you mention it.
Yeah, I love the SMNs too. I've been wearing the SMN narcissus oil for several years. On me, it smells purple & mysterious & dark. But I'm beginning to crave something a little more complex & would like to layer the oil with some kind of green cologne or perfume. The narcissus needs light around it to show off all that dark. Does anyone have any suggestions? P.S. Kevin, I love your perfume writing–it's a revelation. & I agree with you re. cigar boxes. They smell great & are good for storing little things. I'm a grown woman & I still sometimes visit the cigar store & buy a few . . . .
Mirandajane: First, thanks for the compliment! As for green scents I do like and wear green, green, green and green by Miller et Bertaux but since you like oils check out CB I Hate Perfume for many green/leafy perfume oils too. K
great review. Vanilla pipe tobacco is one of my favorite scents. The night watchman in my first college apartment used to smoke in the lobby and it always smelled vaguely of a cigar box in the morning. I will definitely be trying this one.
Bulgari Black with less rubber sounds just about perfect to me!
I don't know why but I find this brand very pleasant, very positive.
But I am a bit concerned that many of my fav brands started to form their production and create the mainstream fragrances.
eshellmoyer: yep, the “after-smell” of good quality tobacco smoke…pipe or cigar (but for some reason, NEVER cigarette) is very pleasant.
Lavinia: I'm sure most old houses who “update” their production/scents do so for financial reasons…but SMN is so “iconic” I don't think we have to worry about losing the old perfumes…same as with Guerlain, etc.
Kevin: Thanks for the suggestions. I went to The Perfumed Court & ordered a decant of green, green, green and green on the strength of the name alone! & I have on hand a couple of decants of CB I Hate Perfume–Wild Hunt & Black March–both smell pretty green . . . . It might be interesting to layer each with the SMN narcissus oil….
MJ: hope you like the ggg&g…I love to wear it in spring. Do report back on your “experiments” if one combo stands out? K
Hi Kevin–
I enjoyed your review. Thank you for mentioning the atomizers–I have problems getting most fragances to last on me, and SMN very much so–just ordered an atomizer and am looking forward to seeing if that helps…
Inkdarkmoon: sorry you had to ORDER an atomizer…I don't know why SMN is so secretive about the atomizers…I went years without knowing they existed. HA!
In a way it is foreboding that such an old company is issuing more acceptable fragrances for today's market.
On the other hand Toscano sounds rather nice from your description 🙂 I am holding out till I smell it myself. I doubt it will take center stage from Fumerie Turque and Fifi in my tobacco-little-altar in my heart of hearts, but who knows? It might get featured in the wings 😉
Helg: ah…don't think Toscano will take the place of your Fumerie Turque…that has much more tobacco than Toscano.
Oh Kevin – next time they will release “Young Sexy Lovely Toscano Sheer” and we will cry and cry every night… Just joking 😉 Have a nice day.
Review the syrupy antique ones, please. I would love a review of Fieno, which isn't carried locally. I worry that it might be too heavy for Miami. I would love a replacement for my long-departed Kiehl's essence New Mown Hay.
I will have to try this one since I like tobacco scents–I hope it shows up locally soon.
Monkeytoe: I do intend to review Fieno SOMEDAY…it's on the list! But first will be the rarer Marshal's Wife which inspires love or hate. I do think Fieno will be too warm and cuddly for Miami…I guess you can reserve it for those few times when a freeze threatens to ruin the citrus harvests…or when you crank up the AC.
Toscano sounds interesting. I buy SMN at Takashimaya in NYC and the sprayer is free. I have Kyoto which I love and has excellent stay power on me. Just goes to show how important skin chemistry is in wearing fragrance.
deepo: good for Takashimaya.
thanks for the review! i am anxious to try this one… i work for a small cigar company so if you ever need an empty box let me know 😉
tobaccoflower: THANK YOU…I hope cigar boxes are as colorful and “over the top” as they used to be. I wish you had smelled this one to give your PROFESSIONAL opinion on the tobacco note…write back when you smell it? What is your favorite tobacco perfume of all time?