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Floris Malmaison fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 10 May 2007 12 Comments

White carnation

A friend very kindly sent me some Malmaison by Floris so that I could wrap up last week's posts on carnation (see Lorenzo Villoresi Garofano, Etro Dianthus, Caron Bellodgia). I had not smelled it in several years, and was surprised to find how closely it matched my memory — it is lovely stuff.

Malmaison was originally released by Floris in the first half of the 19th century; it was reformulated and relaunched in 2000. I do not know the notes, but it is reportedly based on the "rare Malmaison carnation", and it is closer to the modern conception of a soliflore than any of the other carnation scents I've discussed so far. The top notes are, quite literally, a burst of fall spices (clove, cinnamon), and the carnation itself takes a few minutes to warm on the skin before it blossoms. It is almost certainly blended with other light floral notes, and there is a just the slightest tinge of green that cuts the sweetness of the flowers. The base is a pale woody musk.

Floris Malmaison perfume

Malmaison is less assertive than the Garofano, and brighter, less old-fashioned than the Bellodgia. It is creamier and spicier than either, and while all three are powdery to one degree or another, Malmaison has a kind of cushiony-plush finish that gives it something of a pin-up girl air. It isn't "me", not by a long shot, but it is a really pretty fragrance, and a must-try for carnation lovers. I would swear it used to come in different bottle: does anyone remember? Somehow, this one doesn't match the scent.

Floris Malmaison is available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette, and can be purchased directly from florislondon.

Note: top image is White carnation [cropped] by play4smee at flickr; some rights reserved.

Update: Malmaison is now discontinued, reportedly because of new IFRA regulations regarding clove oil.

Another update: Floris launched Malmaison Encore in 2013.

Possibly of interest

Carner Barcelona Sweet William ~ fragrance review
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Souvenir de Malmaison ~ fragrance review
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Fleuriste ~ fragrance review

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: carnation, dearly departed, floris, powdery

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12 Comments

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  1. Anonymous says:
    10 May 2007 at 4:07 pm

    This is a truly beautiful scent, but, it's not one of the carnation scents I find myself reaching for. It's one of those scents I can appreciate as being absolutely lovely, but can't form an emotional bond with. I think I like my carnations to have more, as Marina would say, oomphaliciousness.
    The bottle used to be the same shape, but had just a very simple, rectangular dusky pink label.

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  2. Anonymous says:
    10 May 2007 at 6:02 pm

    As I've already said, I don't reach for any carnation scents on any regular basis. Garofano doesn't entirely seem like “me” either, but I guess it is more so than Malmaison. Still, I think this is one of the prettiest around.

    It ought to have a more frou-frou bottle though!

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  3. Anonymous says:
    11 May 2007 at 3:21 am

    I fell in love with Malmaison when I sampled it and got a decant, which I've never touched for some reason: it seems a totally wintery scent to me, something to fluff into. Pin-up is the right word, but… the reason for the no-frills flacon is that this is marketed by Floris as a men's scent, with an Oscar Wilde reference (he wore Malmaison carnations dyed Irish green). It used to have a women's edition too, but there you go!

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  4. Anonymous says:
    11 May 2007 at 6:27 am

    Wintery it is! I do trot out my bottle when it's cold. And Elle's right — simple, rectangular pink label.

    I've seen some Floris over here, looking for Summer Limes but no joy yet. Maybe in London.

    PS Yes, I SHOULD be out looking at sights, but it's raining and my feet are tired. Off this afternoon to Wales. I miss you.

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  5. Anonymous says:
    11 May 2007 at 9:12 am

    Agree it isn't a hot weather scent by any means. Still think it needs a different bottle! And an EdP, too.

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  6. Anonymous says:
    11 May 2007 at 9:17 am

    March, I so envy you, have always wanted to see Wales!! Hope it is as lovely as I picture it in my mind. And I miss you too! It is too bad the “payola” thing broke when you weren't here to write something witty about it.

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  7. Anonymous says:
    11 May 2007 at 12:29 pm

    You're right , R-

    They changed the shoulders on the bottle to update it.

    Not a pin-up girl, you say ?

    HAH ! don't believe that for one minute.

    I'll have to re-sniff this- it's been a long time since I had a whiff…

    Happy Mother's Day !

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  8. Anonymous says:
    11 May 2007 at 1:39 pm

    LOL — sadly, I'm afraid I'm much closer to soccer mom ;-)

    And thanks!

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  9. Anonymous says:
    11 May 2007 at 5:02 pm

    I just bought a decant of Malmaison about a month ago – not instant love but its spiciness is growing on me (I think it reminded me too much of CdG Carnation) and I feel so…British.. when I wear it.
    One of these days I'll wear it out in the South Florida heat, to see how it performs in a less formal atmosphere. Maybe at the gym? :)

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  10. Anonymous says:
    11 May 2007 at 9:11 pm

    LOL — please don't wear it next to *me* at the gym ;-)

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  11. Anonymous says:
    12 May 2007 at 9:07 am

    Lovely review. Thanks!

    So you think it lacks sufficient staying power so an EDP should be brough out?

    I have worn it in warm-ish weather fine, however I don't know how it would perform in summer. Nevertheless I can't see it as suffocating. Carnations and peppery frags do seem perversly nice to me in hot weather. Of course if done lightly (Bellodgia is a bit much.)

    I do like the bottle, but I for one am all for the austere, uniform through the line and architectural in bottles usually (Lutens, Carthusia, Chanels, etc.)

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  12. Anonymous says:
    12 May 2007 at 6:57 pm

    The staying power is excellent for an EdT, but a deeper version would be nice. Although doubt it sells enough to justify 2 forms. I rarely see it even at the few places near me that carry the Floris line.

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