A friend very kindly sent me some Malmaison by Floris so that I could wrap up last week's posts on carnation (see Lorenzo Villoresi Garofano, Etro Dianthus, Caron Bellodgia). I had not smelled it in several years, and was surprised to find how closely it matched my memory — it is lovely stuff.
Malmaison was originally released by Floris in the first half of the 19th century; it was reformulated and relaunched in 2000. I do not know the notes, but it is reportedly based on the "rare Malmaison carnation", and it is closer to the modern conception of a soliflore than any of the other carnation scents I've discussed so far. The top notes are, quite literally, a burst of fall spices (clove, cinnamon), and the carnation itself takes a few minutes to warm on the skin before it blossoms. It is almost certainly blended with other light floral notes, and there is a just the slightest tinge of green that cuts the sweetness of the flowers. The base is a pale woody musk.
Malmaison is less assertive than the Garofano, and brighter, less old-fashioned than the Bellodgia. It is creamier and spicier than either, and while all three are powdery to one degree or another, Malmaison has a kind of cushiony-plush finish that gives it something of a pin-up girl air. It isn't "me", not by a long shot, but it is a really pretty fragrance, and a must-try for carnation lovers. I would swear it used to come in different bottle: does anyone remember? Somehow, this one doesn't match the scent.
Floris Malmaison is available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette, and can be purchased directly from florislondon.
Note: top image is White carnation [cropped] by play4smee at flickr; some rights reserved.
Update: Malmaison is now discontinued, reportedly because of new IFRA regulations regarding clove oil.
Another update: Floris launched Malmaison Encore in 2013.
This is a truly beautiful scent, but, it's not one of the carnation scents I find myself reaching for. It's one of those scents I can appreciate as being absolutely lovely, but can't form an emotional bond with. I think I like my carnations to have more, as Marina would say, oomphaliciousness.
The bottle used to be the same shape, but had just a very simple, rectangular dusky pink label.
As I've already said, I don't reach for any carnation scents on any regular basis. Garofano doesn't entirely seem like “me” either, but I guess it is more so than Malmaison. Still, I think this is one of the prettiest around.
It ought to have a more frou-frou bottle though!
I fell in love with Malmaison when I sampled it and got a decant, which I've never touched for some reason: it seems a totally wintery scent to me, something to fluff into. Pin-up is the right word, but… the reason for the no-frills flacon is that this is marketed by Floris as a men's scent, with an Oscar Wilde reference (he wore Malmaison carnations dyed Irish green). It used to have a women's edition too, but there you go!
Wintery it is! I do trot out my bottle when it's cold. And Elle's right — simple, rectangular pink label.
I've seen some Floris over here, looking for Summer Limes but no joy yet. Maybe in London.
PS Yes, I SHOULD be out looking at sights, but it's raining and my feet are tired. Off this afternoon to Wales. I miss you.
Agree it isn't a hot weather scent by any means. Still think it needs a different bottle! And an EdP, too.
March, I so envy you, have always wanted to see Wales!! Hope it is as lovely as I picture it in my mind. And I miss you too! It is too bad the “payola” thing broke when you weren't here to write something witty about it.
You're right , R-
They changed the shoulders on the bottle to update it.
Not a pin-up girl, you say ?
HAH ! don't believe that for one minute.
I'll have to re-sniff this- it's been a long time since I had a whiff…
Happy Mother's Day !
LOL — sadly, I'm afraid I'm much closer to soccer mom 😉
And thanks!
I just bought a decant of Malmaison about a month ago – not instant love but its spiciness is growing on me (I think it reminded me too much of CdG Carnation) and I feel so…British.. when I wear it.
One of these days I'll wear it out in the South Florida heat, to see how it performs in a less formal atmosphere. Maybe at the gym? 🙂
LOL — please don't wear it next to *me* at the gym 😉
Lovely review. Thanks!
So you think it lacks sufficient staying power so an EDP should be brough out?
I have worn it in warm-ish weather fine, however I don't know how it would perform in summer. Nevertheless I can't see it as suffocating. Carnations and peppery frags do seem perversly nice to me in hot weather. Of course if done lightly (Bellodgia is a bit much.)
I do like the bottle, but I for one am all for the austere, uniform through the line and architectural in bottles usually (Lutens, Carthusia, Chanels, etc.)
The staying power is excellent for an EdT, but a deeper version would be nice. Although doubt it sells enough to justify 2 forms. I rarely see it even at the few places near me that carry the Floris line.