Scent Strip is a new regular column on fragrance in T: The New York Times Style Magazine. Chandler Burr, the author, has been widely touted as the "first full-time perfume critic for an English-language newspaper" (see The Guardian, also CosmeticsDesign, Gawker, and an interview with Basenotes, among many others). More from Burr in The Guardian:
He argues that the industry as a whole will benefit because the column will enliven public interest.
"All false humility aside, I and the New York Times hope it will do that. We would not be doing this if we didn't intend for the column to become the reference point for perfume around the world," Mr Burr said yesterday. "The industry is extremely nervous about this, but they shouldn't be."
The column debuts today with reviews of Guerlain Rose Barbare, Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir and Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentrée. While he is at it, Burr takes on the natural vs. synthetic debate in a separate column.
Well, they're sure jumping on the bandwagon YOU started! I think the Wash Post needs you and the Philadelphia Inquirer needs Bois de Jasmin. Or you could od the PI and V could do the WP. Or.
Yes, by all means, somebody give this man a run for the money.
I'm looking forward to seeing how it all comes in to shape with time. What a terribly smart decision for the Times to make. They'll stir up interest, and consequently advertising for themselves. Lord knows in the past that whenever Burr has written for them we've all clicked through to read. I'm sure that there are those who are not as perfume-obsessed who will find his articles a welcome diversion from the usual “it's the greatest!” cheer that usually populates the magazine blurbs on scent. Well, that is to say, as long as they really are going for honest criticism pieces. I can't help but feel optimistic this will mean better things for perfumery in general, with a paper of record helping average customers become more discerning. Or not. Again, we'll see I guess…
V can do both, LOL. I have no interest in giving CB a run for his money.
K, agree with all of that. The actual reviews today were not at all what I expected…he saved the punches for the naturals vs synthetics debate. We'll see what comes next week.
But, if he means to write anything critical, seriously doubt it will stir up advertising — if anything, I would imagine quite the opposite.
Hi Robin,
I was looking for the 2nd edition of Scent Strip in the NY Times this sunday, but I've read since, that it won't be every week.
Do you know about the frequency ?
And, what are finally the results of the first critic ?
2 stars for Jo Malone but for Bigarade and Rose Barbare?
I read the article online, but didn't find the 'number of stars' for these 2 scents.
Thanks
ambroxan
I don't know exactly what the NYT is planning. “T: The New York Times Style Magazine”, where the first Scent Strip column appeared, is published 14 times a year, but Burr has appeared in the past in other sections of the paper.
I also only saw the story online, and I assumed the other scents just didn't get star ratings. I am looking forward to his next column — these reviews had all appeared on his website already, so there was nothing new for those of us who already followed his writing.
Robin,
I think I found the answer : Guerlain :3*, Malle : 4*
The following lines come from another web site.
Question :
Jo Malone's Pomegranate Noir gets 2 “lovely” stars, but apart from that attribution, stars are not explicitly given to the other perfumes reviewed in the column. Although, I should probably check the paper edition to make sure of that. At any rate, they are not mentioned in the text itself. Bravo! This is probably some sort of inner resistance to an editorial decision.
Answer :
Hi — we get the Sunday edition at home, and he DID assign stars to all three — Pom Noir got two, Rose Barbare got 3, Bigarade got 4. The (tiny) scale printed across the bottom: 0=do not inhale; 1=inoffensive; 2=eminently sniffable; 3=breathtaking; 4=total nose job; 5=transcendent.
(from Mimifoufrou.com)
Aha, how interesting, thanks! Also just saw on MakeupAlley that the reviews themselves were apparently an inset inside the larger article about synthetics vs naturals.