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Paco Rabanne Black XS fragrance for men

Posted by Marlen on 29 June 2006 6 Comments

Paco Rabanne Black XS for Men

One of the biggest surprises of 2005 was without a doubt Paco Rabanne’s Black XS for Men, created by perfumer Olivier Cresp. A subtle blend of lemon, kalamanzi (a citrus resembling a cross between mandarin and lime), tagete and sage with heart notes of cinnamon, tolu balm, black cardamom and praline, and base notes of palissander wood, black amber, patchouli and ebony wood, Black XS bears little resemblance to its XS predecessors and to put it as simply as possible, smells like a delicious blend of strawberries and patchouli.

Having been a huge fan of XS since its release in the early 90’s, I was eager to see how Rabanne would do a variation, and a supposedly youthful one at that. They got the bottle right, updating it to black glass and resin with a gothic feel and adorned with a rose and “Black” printed in script. The fragrance opens with a smooth citrus blend, surprisingly subtle, juxtaposed against a blend of woods and resins. Though no single note really stands out, the overall effect is “fruity”, so much so that I wondered how it would work as a sorbet. The praline, tolu and amber sweeten the composition, keeping it from being too sharp or linear, but never really make much more of an appearance. Instead, these sweeter notes take a back seat, blending with the warmer basenotes.

Black XS doesn’t develop much, and surprisingly, stays quite close to the skin — the aroma lingers but doesn’t project much. Over the last few years, I’ve become a huge fan of patchouli, but usually only when paired with other fresher or sweeter notes to cut the earthy bitterness, so I was thrilled when Black XS began to relax and the patchouli and woods began to make an appearance. So far I’ve experienced patchouli with roses, orange blossoms, musks and woods, but never with such tangy top notes. Now, I did mention strawberries, and oddly this note is not included in the olfactory pyramid. But I’ll stand by my word, insist that I detect strawberry and just chalk it up to the unusual kalamanzi fruit.

An instant love relationship that ignited when I first tried Black XS has blossomed into a deep devotion. I’ll explain. I first tested Black XS last October in Hong Kong, finally bought a bottle in February in Japan but shipped it to a friend’s house in Pennsylvania, where I’ll be moving to this August. Almost immediately, I began to experience regret and withdrawal, thinking fondly of my beloved Black, and upon a surprise visit to Pennsylvania, I decided to retrieve Black from my wall of boxes now waiting for me in my friend’s basement. Out of approximately 300 bottles, this was the one I most wanted to have with me for the remainder of summer.

One of my favorite men’s releases of 2005, Black XS just might surprise you. Patchouli lovers take note, and ladies, this is one you’ll buy for the boyfriend but you’ll want to wear yourself! Gentleman, if your bottle goes missing, you’ll know who to ask!

Black XS is available online at many of the fragrance discounters, including imaginationperfumery and scentiments.

Note: image via Images de Parfums.

Possibly of interest

Paco Rabanne Lady Million Empire ~ new perfume
Paco Rabanne Pacollection ~ new fragrances
Paco Rabanne Invictus Legend & Olympea Legend ~ new fragrances

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: olivier cresp, paco rabanne

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6 Comments

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  1. Anonymous says:
    29 November 2007 at 9:25 am

    I think they are discontinuing the original XS pour Elle. When the original XS came out, I first wore the men's one and then when the pour Elle version came out I wore both (depending on moods). Today I visited Paco Rabanne's website the XS for men is still there by the XS pour Elle is gone!!! Add to that a few weeks back I saw a bunch of XS pour Elle on discount in a department store I think the pour Elle is no longer produced. :-(

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  2. Anonymous says:
    29 November 2007 at 4:16 pm

    Marlen no longer writes for NST so he can't answer you, but thanks for letting us know!

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  3. Anonymous says:
    15 July 2008 at 7:33 am

    I don't know why this one isn't that popular !!

    how on earth ?? this one is sooooo good.

    actually this one is my first colonge that I ever bought.

    (now i have more than 80)

    this one is so sexy,

    you will love it !

    just give it a chance :( !!

    trust me !

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  4. Anonymous says:
    16 July 2008 at 10:12 am

    I thought it was pretty popular?

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  5. Anonymous says:
    29 October 2008 at 4:01 pm

    bought this one for myself and later on introduced it to my bf who ended up loving it so much!

    he got compliments from his colleagues everytime he uses it :p

    they said it smelled sexy! :D

    i agree wholeheartedly…will keep buying it for me and him :p

    great scent, and quite a change…smelled different from other men perfumes!

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  6. Anonymous says:
    30 October 2008 at 12:42 pm

    Marlen doesn't write for NST now so he won't be able to answer you, but thanks for commenting!

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