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Fruity floral fragrances for spring: Delices de Cartier & Missoni

Posted by Robin on 11 April 2006 45 Comments

Delices de Cartier perfume

Fruity floral is not my favorite fragrance category, so you will have to take my words with a larger than usual grain of salt...but here are two recent offerings from the perfume counters:

Délices de Cartier was launched earlier this year, and takes its name from a Cartier jewelry collection. The bottle, inspired by a Cartier brooch, is gorgeous (although oddly similar to last year's MyQueen); the fragrance was created by Christine Nagel of Quest and features frozen morello cherry, bergamot, pink, white and yellow jasmine, pink pepper, freesia, violet, tonka beans, amber and sandalwood.

Délices starts with peppered citrus; the sweet cherry joins in shortly thereafter and intensifies over the next 30 minutes or so. The dry down is sheer, well-blended florals over amber and sandalwood. After an hour, the cherry is quite subdued, and the base is now powdery and warm. It is a sweet fragrance with vanillic undertones, but in keeping with its target market of women in their 30s it is not as heavily sugared as many of the fruity florals released this year, and the Eau de Toilette version which I am wearing today is very soft and light. Nicely done, even if it is not my sort of fragrance, and less foody than I expected.

It is also available in a parfum form which I have not tried — please comment if you have! Both are available at Cartier boutiques, department stores and imaginationperfumery.

Missoni perfume

The Missoni fragrance, also launched earlier this year, has four accords, each named for a color featured in Missoni's knitwear designs. The Radiant Yellows accord has bergamot, nespolo (loquat) and magnolia; the Magenta Pinks accord is peony and rose; the Intense Oranges accord has mandarin, bitter orange and kaki (persimmon), and the Chocolate Browns accord has Gianduia chocolate (chocolate with hazelnut paste) and fluid amber.

I don't know much about Missoni as a design house, but I would venture to guess that the fragrance is geared towards a younger audience than the Cartier Délices: the Missoni is sweeter, busier, and considerably more foody. I rather liked the top notes, which are sparkling and nicely tart, but the "Chocolate Browns" accord arrives rather quickly along with the florals, and there is something about the combination of chocolate, nuts, fruits and flowers that I find rather overwhelming, as though the four accords are battling for supremacy on my skin. It does calm a bit on the dry down, but even then it is sweeter than I would like. I'd love to hear comments from fruity floral fans who have tried it; I will say that it is an interesting fragrance and it doesn't, like so many, smell like everything else on the market.

I am trying the Eau de Parfum, which comes in three sizes: 30, 50 or 100 ml. Missoni is also available in parfum (15 ml bottle or 6 ml rollerball), and can be found at Saks or Neiman Marcus.

Note: Cartier ad via Images de Parfums; Missoni ad via girl.com.au.

Possibly of interest

Maya Njie Les Fleurs, Nordic Cedar & Vanilj ~ fragrance reviews
Burberry Her ~ quick fragrance review
Anna Sui Romantica Exotica ~ fragrance review

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: cartier, christine nagel, fruity floral, missoni

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45 Comments

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  1. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 12:54 pm

    Not a big fan of fruity-florals either. Also, have only smelled these two on a scent strip, not the best method to get to know a fragrance, I know…but what I smelled did not make me want to try them on my skin.

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  2. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 1:17 pm

    I saw the Missonis last week, and they were displaying little 'nests' of small bottles, as well as the big bottle (where the juice seemed to be a different colour – pink, as opposed to amber in the small bottles. Or I need new lenses). I say 'nests' because they reminded me of baby birds, with their heads all leaning together. I found it rather touching, although I'm afraid I didn't sniff the juice(s).

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  3. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 2:31 pm

    I've tried the Cartier—and I don't remember in which form. I found it too sweet. This and le Baiser du Dragon are not my faves.

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  4. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 4:27 pm

    M, do try the Missoni, I'd love to know what you think of it.

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  5. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 4:29 pm

    LOL…sounds cute! Yes, either the bottles are a different color or the juice is, not sure which.

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  6. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 4:35 pm

    L, Baiser du Dragon is not my favorite either — too heavy for me.

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  7. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 4:56 pm

    The Delices parfum is more cherry, definitely better if you are a cherry lover.

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  8. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 5:22 pm

    I wish that I could send someone a comment directly because I AM AND HAVE BEEN SEARCHING for a new perfume. There is absolutely nothing wrong with my old faithful 'HAPPY' but I've been wearing it for about 4 years now. I love it so much but I want to explore the world of Perfume and can't get passed my old friend. I need help. I want a new SUMMER fragrance. SOmething that reminds me of the beach, with light hints of coconut (suntan lotion) and not too strong scents of the ocean (nothing like cool water, EW). As you can tell I'm in love with whatever notes are involved in HAPPY and would love to find something in that family, I realize there isn't coconut in Happy but I hope you get what i mean. If anyone has any suggestions I would love to hear from you!! Thanks! PS i'm not a fan of musky, patchouli, sometimes vanilla, annise, sandlewood, etc. I guess that makes me floral. Thanks!!

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  9. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 5:50 pm

    Some possibilities:

    Matthew Williamson

    J Lo Miami Glow

    Carlos Santana for women

    Coco Crema by Stacked Style

    Comptoir Sud Pacifique Paradise

    Escada Pacific Paradise

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  10. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 5:52 pm

    V, have a feeling the EdT is more my style then…it already had enough cherry for me 🙂

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  11. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 7:05 pm

    Try Bobbi Brown's (yes, the makeup maven) fragrance simply called 'beach'. It has all the accords you like; smells like suntan lotion, salty sea air, and jasmine. Although it started as a limited edition scent, it does so well that the company has expanded the line to include soap, shower gel and lotion. I'm a guy and I wear it…and get tons of compliments when I do. Enjoy.

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  12. Anonymous says:
    11 April 2006 at 8:30 pm

    You can try Tommy Bahama, which is a fruity floral with a touch of coconut. I thought it was nice, but I'm not a coconut fan, so its not something I'd wear myself.

    Tommy Bahama also has a new summer edition out right now as well, which I think has floral and citrus in it. I am intrigued by this one, but haven't tried it yet.

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  13. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 9:02 am

    Great rec, can't believe I forgot that one…

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  14. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 9:05 am

    Need to try the original TB myself…have samples of the Very Cool, & the women's is very fresh & summery & aquatic, but doesn't strike me (after 1 try, anyway) as suntan oil-ish.

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  15. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 10:06 am

    Delices de Cartier was not for me either. We have a Cartier store here locally in Phoenix and they gave me 2 samples of it. (Anyone want to swap them for something I'd like?)

    R, you are so good at giving a list of recommendations right off the top of your head! How nice.

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  16. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 10:18 am

    LOL…I don't do anything much off the top of my head: I have the memory skills of a head of cabbage. I search this site and my own rather massive file of testing notes 🙂

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  17. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 10:53 am

    Hang in there. I see that sweet Robin gave you a nice list to get started on.

    I also started my elusive search for a new fragrance to Love, back many years ago when White Shoulders was reformulated into something nauseating.

    Check on Ebay for samples & decants. That's how I started. And, you will learn a Lot here also!

    I have now tested at least 100 + scents between samples & the cosmetic counters (that may not even come *close* to some ladies here!) But I've found 2 or 3 that I like, so far.

    Don't give up….but be forewarned – this is highly addictive! 🙂

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  18. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 11:41 am

    Thank you guys sooooo much!! I have a lot of smelling to do. Does Sephora carry most of these fragrances. I just love shopping there because they provide the coffee beans!! Thank you guys again SOO MUCH!!

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  19. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 11:48 am

    Sephora will have most of them. You will need to go to a department store for the Bobbi Brown, and come to think of it, I'm not sure which US stores are carrying the Matthew Williamson, sorry! It might still be UK only (?)

    Have fun!

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  20. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 2:07 pm

    I bought the Delices parfume and I love it (but then, I love fruity florals). It was just foody and sweet enough without being sickening. The EDT was too light and nondescript on me, I immediately preferred the parfum. Didn't care for the Missoni though.

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  21. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 4:05 pm

    Another vote for the BB Beach; it sounds like precisely what you are looking for.

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  22. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 4:15 pm

    Robin, the Delices is sticking in my mind for some reason and I can't remember why, it's really bugging me… did you leave me a note about it?

    Baiser. Ugh. My mother-in-law wears it. (perfect MIL perfume, huh?)

    The Missoni bottle is really cute. Given their clothes, frankly, I was expecting something edgier.

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  23. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 4:21 pm

    Hmmm, perhaps I do need to try the parfum after all. Interestingly enough, the Cartier boutique near me only has an EdT tester, so will have to do some searching around.

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  24. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 4:23 pm

    M, don't think it was me…

    I didn't find the Missoni nearly as “generic department store” as many of the fruity florals out this year. Not exactly edgy either though, you're right.

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  25. Anonymous says:
    12 April 2006 at 8:22 pm

    A-ha! No, it was Molinard Tendre Friandise — you said it “is about the only real candy fragrance I like. I wish I could explain what sets it apart, but it is late afternoon and my brain is quite dead.”

    Okay, my interest is still piqued weeks later. At some point please explain! 🙂

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  26. Anonymous says:
    13 April 2006 at 8:55 am

    Well, this is convoluted, but you know how some candies appeal to kids and some to grownups (and I'm sure you do know since you have kids)? Pink Sugar, for instance, just smells like something a child or pre-teen would eat, but that wouldn't appeal to me even as a food. The Molinard smells like candy, but not like a candy that would appeal to my son.

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  27. Anonymous says:
    13 April 2006 at 2:30 pm

    (giggling) okay, I have to try that! FYI Your comment was lifted from my “coffee/chocolate” post about how I don't like most foodie frags… now I will have to hunt down a sample. I need to paw through the Molinards more, I think there are some things I'd really like.

    PS I'm picturing the smell of one of those weird nut-nougat things from Spain that I adore and the kids think are disgusting… or something with a really sour fruit or strong licorice…. thanks!

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  28. Anonymous says:
    13 April 2006 at 5:04 pm

    Well, I should also mention that the top notes have been compared to hairspray. Perhaps that is a deterrent to the young 'uns as well 😉

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  29. Anonymous says:
    14 April 2006 at 9:47 pm

    Robin — PS — I smelled the Delices parfum today; it is considerably different from the EDT. It is a much fuller, richer (although not sharper) cherry, and a lot less jasmine. I still wouldn't buy it, but to my nose it was less sweet and more interesting. Someone who really loooooved high-end cherries might love it.

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  30. Anonymous says:
    14 April 2006 at 10:22 pm

    Laughing at “high-end cherries”!!! I'll see if I can find a tester someplace. My local NM didn't have the parfum open last I was there.

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  31. Anonymous says:
    15 April 2006 at 10:04 pm

    There is something so comforting about this scent, for me. I think it is one of the better usages of gourmand on the market. The idea of “fruity floral”

    usually turns me off; However, my interest was sparked when I investigated its press. The daughter of designer Angela Missoni (who was one of the main testers of their fragrance) described previous scents that inspired her…amber, patchouli, aqua di gio–which happened to be my second “grown up” scent, that I wore at age 18.

    I'm 25 years old, fresh out of the target market for fruity “Victoria's Secret” like scents. Perhaps this potion is more nostalgia provoking for me, than anything else. It smells unusual and modern–with a rustic, bohemian undertone to it.

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  32. Anonymous says:
    15 April 2006 at 10:08 pm

    Calvin Klein “Eternity Summer”, may interest you. It does have a hint of marine about it, but it evolves into something completely unexpected. It's sort of a beachy scent, that's more interested in the sand, seagrass and sun, than ocean water.

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  33. Anonymous says:
    16 April 2006 at 8:27 am

    It didn't suit me personally, but agree that it is unusual & modern. I get very tired of smelling scents that are so similar to each other, and this one did stand out.

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  34. Anonymous says:
    28 April 2006 at 8:05 pm

    Hi just thought that you might like to try Very Cool by Tommy Bahama. Its a light citrus, sea, and floral. Its very nice not to heavy. I am in love with BVLGARI Crystalline… so nice. It has green notes and light floral.

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  35. Anonymous says:
    8 December 2006 at 4:28 pm

    I absolutely love the Missoni perfume! I was torn between J Lo Live (which is fruity and closer to what I usually wear) and the Missoni perfume. I got the sample of both perfume and I ended up buying Live because it was more affortable the Missoni. As soon as I got home, I had buyer remorse. >_< The more I tried on Missoni, the more I realize how much better this perfume is in terms of staying power and smell. I went back to the store the day after to return Live and picked up a bottle of Missoni. Althought it was the most expensive perfume I've ever brought, it was well worth it. I was recommended by the lady in the perfume counter to spray on the Missoni fragence instead of sniffing it because the scent developes so differently once it is on the skin. I recommend you doing the same if you were to try on this fragence. You're gonna love this scent if you're looking for a warm scent for the winter or if you are a huge chocolate fan.

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  36. Anonymous says:
    8 December 2006 at 8:31 pm

    So glad you found something you love! I am pretty sure Missoni is now available at discount, so it won't have to be so expensive when it is time to refill your bottle.

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  37. Anonymous says:
    21 August 2007 at 11:01 pm

    Better late than never? If you're still hunting, Dani, try Azuree Soleil!!! Hints of coconut are just the beginning. Very, very beachy/suntan-lotion-y, but still a class act. Tom Ford for Estee Lauder: no wonder.

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  38. Anonymous says:
    9 June 2008 at 2:23 am

    i have been dying to smell missoni since i saw the advertisement and read the article on nowsmellthis a year ago, but have yet to find it. does anyone know if it is available at or near vancouver, bc (seattle?) and if so where? thanks

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  39. Anonymous says:
    9 June 2008 at 7:51 am

    Georgia-

    I was in love with this brew at first–it seemed nostalgic and exciting. Within days it turned on me and developed into a sickly-sweet mess of fruits, foods and flowers. It has an odd heady sweetness to it and reminds me of the dusty expresso-cocoa coating found on some coffee candy, mixed with juicy blooms and citrus fruits. If you like uber-sweet with a kick of strangeness, you may enjoy “Missoni”. The new “Missoni Aqua” (aqua colored bottle vs. magenta colored) is more open in feeling, has the sweetness removed and replaced by a plasticy-wateriness (some have likened it to fresh latex paint). I've since given “Missoni” away, I'm sorry to say, but bought it from the “Sephora” website over a year ago.

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  40. Anonymous says:
    9 June 2008 at 8:25 am

    Dear Georgia —

    Missoni is available at Holt Renfrew, Pacific Centre, Vancouver. I love the stuff; as nlb says, it is uber-sweet with a kick of strangeness, but I've owned my FB since it first came out and I've grown very fond of it. It's one of a kind — in a good way, to my nose. And if you like compliments, you'll get them wearing it!!

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  41. Anonymous says:
    10 July 2008 at 7:10 pm

    I just bough Delices(because it was half of the price in a particular store here in Brazil…it was around 90 dolars for the edt 50 ml….things here are very overpriced due to the taxes

    I am not quite sure if that was very smart of me(but the bottle is gorgeous), the fragrance it's starting to bug me, there's something about it that I thinks is extremely unpleasant, don't know if it's the pepper, the cherry…oh well!I may sound stupid but i think it reminds me of some kind of cherry cough medication(Those really bitter) with some flower that I can distinguish and vanilla.

    I also think is nicely done and well balanced(even without much experience like you, it's very clear when a perfume is well balanced, I've got a sample o fahrenheit 32 and I think that this perfume is a complete mess)…

    Robin, do you have a fragrance that you bough it on impulse, started to dislike it, but wanted to like it?

    I was thinking about layering it with something else,but I'm not quite sure with what kind of fragrance…do you have any suggestions?

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  42. Anonymous says:
    11 July 2008 at 11:46 am

    Yes, I have lots of perfumes like that. Two options: layer it over something woody & dry to temper the cherry, maybe? Or just set it aside and wait until the seasons change, then try it again. Sometimes things that don't work for me in summer do better in winter, and vice versa.

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  43. marmalade says:
    17 December 2010 at 2:33 pm

    This is going to sound weird, but I got a sample of delices and thought it was nice of it’s type but not for me (tend to go for more smoky, incense smells) then I very lightly sprayed a tiny touch of Carins Eau Dynamisante (which is too manly for me usually) on my arm and a good spray of Delice and got a real surprise as it dried down – I started to smell bitter chocolate and morello cherry liqueur, just right for my pre xmas night out wearing black dress and ruby necklace and earings. When it fades it’s less sweet and slightly resiny, but these are subjective things!

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    • Robin says:
      19 December 2010 at 7:28 pm

      Interesting, that does sound nicer than the Delices alone!

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  44. gourmandcoquin28 says:
    3 April 2011 at 7:46 pm

    I just Purchased the Parfum of Delices de Cartier im an not a fan of the edt and the edp was so so then i smelled the Parfum and just about dropped when my knees shook omg i love the parfum unfortunately it only comes in a 1 oz. but fortunately its not any smaller thank god lol i love it strongly reccomend it!!

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