When Mona di Orio died in December 2011, she left behind formulae for a few more fragrances, among them Eau Absolue. I had to wonder, how does that work? I’m always suspicious of novels published after authors have died. The writers aren’t around to nix an editor’s suggestions or revise scenes that might have not have yet met their standards. How about with a perfumer?
I asked Jeroen Oude Sogtoen, Mona di Orio’s business partner, who continues to manage the perfume line. Of their business relationship, they referred to Mona as the business’s “nose” and Jeroen Oude Sogtoen as the “eye” since he’s responsible for the line’s simple-but-luxurious visual appeal.
He said the concentrates for the Mona di Orio line continue to be made at Accords et Parfums on Edmond Roudnitska’s property, and he doesn’t have another perfumer fine-tune her compositions before they’re produced. “Mona worked for so many years with them [Accords et Parfums] that they are my guidance with Mona's fragrances. Especially Olivier [Olivier Maure, Accord et Parfums’ director] is the one I fully trust with our formulas. There is no need to share it with others, Olivier can play this role for us with full respect and knowledge of Mona's legacy.”1
Eau Absolue’s notes include Sicilian bergamot, clementine, petitgrain, litsea cubeba from China, Egyptian geranium, vetiver from Java and Haiti, Jamaican St. Thomas bay leaf, pink peppercorn from Peru, cedar from Virginia, musk, and cistus labdanum. The press materials say Eau Absolue was composed in di Orio’s “signature chiaroscuro construction,” and describe it as a “memoir steeped in Mona di Orio’s love for the Mediterranean.”
Eau Absolue is citrusy, but because of the perfume’s weight and other notes it smells to me more like a green fragrance with bergamot, lemon, and orange rather than like a classic Eau de Cologne. On first sniff, Eau Absolue is thick with a mélange of tart citrus rind and smashed green stems. Bay leaf smoothes away any sharp edges, and an underpinning of cedar casts an almost horsey-animalic note deep in the perfume's heart.
All in all, Eau Absolue feels clean and green-fresh, reminding me of an expensive bar of artisanal soap. Over time the citrus ebbs, and the fragrance becomes a tiny bit sweeter but remains green. Eventually it gracefully fades, growing quieter, but still true to the perfume's overall story. Like the other Mona di Orio fragrances I’ve tried, it’s dense and warm, not an airy tingle of citrus like, say, Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impériale.
Eau Absolue doesn’t have that overly “bracing” smell of a traditional men’s cologne, and any gender would feel comfortable wearing it. From my rollerball sample the fragrance has moderate sillage, but I bet it reaches further when sprayed on skin. It lasts about six hours on me.
So, besides Eau Absolue and a few others that have been released, did Mona di Orio leave anything else in the vault? Jeroen Oude Sogtoen writes, “This year we will launch the fragrance Mona created for me, filled with my passions, likings, music, colors, films, history of fashion, etc. She made this some years ago. And now I will share it because it’s too precious to keep just for myself.” Next year, he plans to re-release Lux, Carnation, and Nuit Noire.
Mona di Orio Eau Absolue Eau de Parfum costs $230 for 100 ml. For information on where to buy it, see Mona di Orio under Perfume Houses.
1For clarity, I standardized Mr. Oude Sogtoen's grammar, but the words are all his own.
Angela, thanks for the review- sounds like a must try. And the re-release -this is the best news! I love Lux and have kicked myself for not buying a sale bottle unsniffed- and when I got around to sniffing, it was all gone.
I still haven’t smelled Lux! I’m excited about the re-releases, too. I think her fan base is still building, and it would be a shame for people who are just beginning to discover her not to have the chance to smell her signature fragrances.
Hmm. I’ve been saving up for a bottle of Vetyver, and it seems like that still should be my first choice from this line. The next year releases look tempting as well.
I probably would choose Vetyver over Eau Absolue, too, if it were for me and I could only buy one bottle (although I’d probably go for the Cuir first, since I have a decant of Vanille).
ah, the ubiquitous pink peppercorn! Have you sampled this brand’s Vetyver? Could use one, though I’m sure there are less expensive options…
I couldn’t smell the pink peppercorn, so it was used subtly. But you’re right! It seems to pop up everywhere.
Here’s my review of the Vetyver http://bit.ly/13P4ZId.
thanks—“somebody’s wearing patchouli” is all I need to know!
I’m glad I helped settle it for you!
Thanks for the lovely review! I adore many Mona perfumes and have a split of this one coming soon. I really don’t need too many citrus scents but didn’t hesitate at all to purchase this one given her style of perfumery. I am also thrilled to read that there are still plans to re-release her signature line. I have a bottle of Lux and hope to add Nuit Noire to my collection.
I’m curious about the new one, too. Do tell me what you think of Eau Absolue once you’ve tried it!
Nuit noire is returning, this is great great news!
You’re in good company!
I haven’t tried much of Mona di Orio’s line, but I really like the sample of Nuit Noir I have. I’m glad it’s being re-released.
A lot of people will be, I’m sure of it.
I’m intrigued by Mona di Orio’s fragrances based on an old vial of Nuit Noire I have from a few years back. At the time I thought it was horrendous and awful, but since my nose has shifted and my tastes have morphed, I would be interested to investigate more of her creations. They seem to have a polarizing effect – Turin’s reviews are scathing but Gaia at the Non-Blonde loves them. And I’ve come around to Nuit Noire….but perfumes are like a good novel…I re-read not to see how it has changed but how I have changed…
I love your statement about how your reaction to a fragrance reflects on how you’ve changed! That’s so true. That said, Nuit Noire is definitely polarizing. It really intrigues me, though. (In fact, I’m going to go find my sample now and give it another try).
Thanks for the review, Angela. I’m looking forward to trying this. Her Oud is one of my personal favorites. Gaw-jus.
That’s another one I haven’t tried! I’ll look for it, though, based on your recommendation.
What Carlos said. MdO’s Oud is one of the few “Western” ouds where you can smell that the real deal was used. Super spendy but beautiful.
I enjoyed your review, Angela but I sense you’re not aching for a bottle of this! I’m itching to try it as I like the sound of a warmer citrus. It is seldom warm enough in Blighty for something bracing! I am also very happy to learn of the re releases. I have Carnation but dithered over Nuit Noire (that opening!!) and by the time I realised I wanted it it had gone.
I’ve been enjoying my sample of Eau Absolue, but if my budget permitted one of the Monas, I’d probably go for the Cuir first (I love that ashtray effect). But the oud sounds like a must-try!
I think I’d like this, it sounds so classic and nice. My favorite of hers so far has been Oud, although her Tubereuse is quite nice also. I’d really, really like to have Oud… it’s not remotely in my price range, sadly.
It’s rough to fall in love with an expensive fragrance!
I’m a huge fan of Mona di Orio creations and I’m glad there’s a bit left in the vault to remind us of her artistry. I wasn’t in a rush to try this particular one, as it sounds a bit traditional, but your review makes it sound very interesting, Angela. Thanks for the review!
I’m really curious about the one she made for her business partner. I wonder what it will smell like?
There are whole lines of perfumes I have not yet explored and Mona di Orio is one of them. Luckyscent had a gift with purchase over the 2012 holidays and I scored a set of 4 5 mLs (I think) Les Nombres d’Or Mona di Orio; Oud and Cuir are in the set. I must try them soon given the endorsements here!
What a score! I like Cuir because of its funky ashtray edge, but not everyone will go for that. Vanille is beautiful, too. I’d love to know what you think of the bunch!