In conjunction with their upcoming tribute to Serge Diaghilev,* founder of the Ballets Russes, London’s Victoria and Albert Museum will launch Diaghilev, a limited edition fragrance…
Roja Dove Enslaved ~ perfume review
This is a review of Roja Dove Enslaved Eau de Parfum, but it’s going to take me a moment to get there, so please bear with me.
Not long ago I heard a perfumer disparaged because his work was stale. According to the person I talked to, the perfumer had said what he had to say and wasn’t breaking any new ground with his newest fragrances. I understand this complaint, especially coming from someone who sees perfume as art. We already have so many beautiful fragrances. If you’re not adding to what’s out there, but simply creating more of the same, why bother? I won’t buy new art unless it challenges me and draws me in. I won’t stay up past midnight in a crowded club unless I know I’ll be listening to music that feels fresh and engaging. And I’m certainly tired of the landslide of berry-patchouli or screechy floral-musks out there.
Then, Friday night I was at a coworker’s going away party and I went to the bar to buy the coworker a beer. While I waited, a beefy, biker-type guy sat near me combing his long, red beard. “I like your scent,” he said.
My wrist flew to my nose as I tried to remember what it was. “It’s Jolie Madame,” I said…
An easy trap to fall into
It's an easy trap to fall into - up to 97 per cent of the cost of producing a conventional perfume goes on marketing, packaging and advertising. The liquid in the bottle can represent as little as 3 per cent of the total cost of production.
As 'professeur de parfum' and founder of the Haute Parfumerie at Harrods, Roja Dove laments, 'I think most people don't actually smell fragrances anymore. People are so influenced by marketing that people buy scents that they don't really like.'
— From Perfume: how natural are you willing to go? at Ecologist. The article includes a list of recommended natural perfumes.
Grossmith Phul-Nana, Shel-el-Nessim, and Hasu-no-Hana ~ fragrance review
Have you ever seen the episode of I Love Lucy where Lucy gets a job in a candy factory? The candy rolls off the assembly line so fast she can’t package it. She ends up covered in chocolate and out of a job. These days, trying to stay on top of perfume launches is like working at Lucy’s candy factory. As is also true at the factory, so many of the fragrances are the same. This candy tester is happy to report the new Grossmith line stands apart. They’re different not so much because they’re wildly compelling, but because they smell of a different time.
Grossmith, an English perfume house, first opened its doors in 1835 and closed sometime in the early 20th century. The great grandson of its founder revived the house this year with the help of Roja Dove from Harrod’s Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie. Grossmith has released three of its original fragrances. Despite the perfume house’s name, which sounds like it could front canned peas, each fragrance’s name is exotic: Phul-Nana, Shel-el-Nessim, and Hasu-no-Hana…
Grossmith Phul-Nana, Shem-el-Nessim and Hasu-no-Hana ~ new fragrances
Grossmith, an English perfume house originally established in 1835, has been relaunched by the great-grandson of the original founder working in collaboration with Roja Dove of the Haute Parfumerie at Harrods. Three of the original fragrances are now available:
Phul-Nana ~ “Hindi for ‘lovely flower’. A fresh, sweet Floral composition with Aromatic Fougère overtones on a soft, warm, woody base…”