Perfumer Quentin Bisch talks about studying perfumery at Givaudan.
Parfums de Marly Delina ~ new fragrance
French niche line Parfums de Marly has launched Delina, a new fragrance for women…
Ex Nihilo Fleur Narcotique, Sweet Morphine & Love Shot ~ fragrance reviews & a quick poll
This month marks my 10-year anniversary as a writer for Now Smell This, and I’ve been thinking back to my original impulses for applying for this fantastic gig. I love to write. I love fragrance. I wanted a chance to share my impressions of the perfumes I was exploring, from classics to the newest independent releases. On that latter point: for me, the gold rush of niche perfumery has gone from a thrill to a frequent frustration.
Be warned: this week’s review is a also bit of a rant. Ex Nihilo, a Parisian house founded in 2013 by Sylvie Loday, Olivier Royère and Benoît Verdier, has positioned itself as an “alternative” within the world of luxury perfumery, but I’m not too sure about that. I can’t help feeling that this brand embodies many niche fragrance trends that bother me these days…
Etat Libre d’Orange Attaquer Le Soleil Marquis de Sade ~ fragrance review
What a difference an ingredient makes. Last week I disparaged a fragrance that showcased one note (Iso E Super) and this week I’m doing just the opposite. Attaquer Le Soleil* Marquis de Sade by Etat Libre d’Orange promotes one ingredient, cistus labdanum (from Cistus ladanifer), but I thoroughly enjoy this perfume.
I wrote about the Marquis de Sade and perfume almost 7 years ago (Histoires de Parfums 1740 Marquis de Sade). I’ll quote myself:
Sade’s stories of torture, his endless diatribes against religion, his sexual fantasies involving pain, incest, degradation, humiliation and murder numbed me. Reading the Marquis de Sade’s dully written, repetitive tales made me sleepy and after awhile I began to laugh heartily at the absurdity of him and what he ‘preached.’ His philosophy didn’t appeal to (or interest) me. I was definitely not Sade’s audience.
I’m still not Sade’s audience but sometimes I feel I could have been his compatriot…
Etat Libre d’Orange Hermann ~ fragrance review
To be precise, this Etat Libre d’Orange fragrance isn’t just called Hermann. It’s Hermann à mes côtés me paraissait une ombre, a line from a poem by Victor Hugo. Translated, that means “by my side, Hermann seemed to me like a shadow.” Here, we’ll stick simply to Hermann.1
“Perfume as shadow” is a beautiful way to describe the feel of a dark, cool, sheer fragrance. To me, Hermann fills the bill. It also leans masculine and is almost infuriatingly persistent…