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Browsing by tag: institute art olfaction

I’m not interested in fixing the industry

Posted by Robin on 7 September 2022 Leave a Comment

I’m not interested in fixing the industry, I’m interested in finding ways to bypass it altogether. I'm obviously political, and as I’m sure you can tell I’m appalled by how the world is going. I don’t like this current place we’re in, and I equate it to the incessant quest for power, dominance, and money. It's really hard to even begin to approach the perfume industry with all this in mind, because while the people are good—humans doing their best in the world, like all of us—the structures within which they work are stuck, and feel rotten. It's like the plastics industry or the fashion industry. Why are we making such a song and dance about producing all this shit that's going to end up in the ocean, anyway?

— Saskia Wilson-Brown of the Institute for Art and Olfaction. Read more in Beauty Disruptor Series: Saskia Wilson-Brown On Open-Access Scent at BeautyMatter.

Chipping away at barriers

Posted by Robin on 18 March 2022 Leave a Comment

By chipping away at barriers, the institute is helping reshape the practice of perfumery, often characterized by elitism and a Eurocentric perspective. To encourage outsider scent culture, Ms. Wilson-Brown’s definition of perfume is intentionally loose, as in not constricted to what one buys in a bottle. It’s “a conscious combination of aromatics for a predetermined result,” she said. “A chef could be in some way a perfumer if she combines materials for their aroma, or a florist. The advantage of this definition is that it’s inclusive.”

— Saskia Wilson-Brown's Institute for Art and Olfaction will celebrate their 10th anniversary this year. Read more in Can Scent Be Democratized? The Institute for Art and Olfaction celebrates a decade of exploring our sense of smell at The New York Times.

A sensory experience

Posted by Robin on 17 January 2020 Leave a Comment

[Miriam] Langer and her collaborator, Saskia Wilson-Brown, created That Old Witch (2019) as a sensory experience. Six of seven wooden boxes contain scents connected to the lore surrounding the figure of the archetypal Russian crone, including the scent of a Russian forest and of Baba Yaga herself. Each box was inspired by the traditional folk art form of painted lacquered boxes, which connect to Russian folklore and legend. Each scent was developed from formulas created by Wilson-Brown, the founder of the Institute for Art and Olfaction in Los Angeles and a visiting lecturer at London’s Royal College of Art.

— Currents 826 in Santa Fe is now exhibiting Winter Tales, including the "retelling of a classic winter witch tale through smell" described above. Read more in Art that comes in from the cold: "Winter Tales" at Pasatiempo.

You need to be patient

Posted by Robin on 17 June 2019 6 Comments

Wilson-Brown added that even if it was stored perfectly, the aldehydes (“that Champagne popping aspect”) are so fragile, they’d probably be damaged by now anyway. We waited out the base notes, and she cautioned me that with old scents, the top notes are often the first to go bad so you need to be patient after that first hit. “Real perfume nerds have a special closet in their house, the coolest darkest spot.” I asked if she had one, and she said no, she’s not a nerd.

— Saskia Wilson-Brown at the Institute for Art and Olfaction helps The Cut writer Maggie Lange with her quest to smell a long discontinued fragrance. Read more at The Hunt for a Perfume Worn by a Writer Who Terrifies Me.

The Grey Lady

Posted by Robin on 11 August 2017 9 Comments

Luca Turin talks about “violet, ionones and iris, in this teaser from the upcoming feature documentary, ‘The Grey Lady'”. From the film’s website: “The Grey Lady is a documentary exploring the very real challenges faced by several perfumers in their competition to re-create a perfume that has been – and may yet remain – lost to time.” I have no further information, but it looks like the fragrance is Jacques Fath Iris Gris. (For one “new version”, see Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Scent of Hope.)

The documentary is being produced by The Institute for Art and Olfaction, and they’re in need of funding support. There are fun perks! Do watch their video below the jump…

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