Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz will hold a “Smell and Tell” at Sky Meadow Apothecary & Spa from noon to 4 on Sunday, October 8:
I test the skin, then I can recommend a family of fragrances that’s best for you. Skin can be sweet, creamy, pudding sweet. It can be saltier…
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz introduced Piment et Chocolat in 2003. The fragrance features notes of black pepper, paprika, pimento, red chili, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, cocoa beans and chocolate. It starts with sweet chocolate and very strong, almost sneeze-worthy pepper notes. As it dries down, the sweetness largely disappears, and the initial kick from the pepper is tempered by the other spices; just enough red chili remains to add some heat. The end result is a warm, almost dusty combination of spices and dry cocoa.
It strikes a nice balance — it is foody, but not candied, and softer than the notes might indicate. It is a cozy kind of fragrance, perfect for a cold winter night spent by the fire. But it is in the Parfums des Beaux Arts line, and it isn’t cheap: 1/3 oz of Eau de Parfum is $60, 1 oz is $135. I like it, but after three tries, I don’t adore it enough to pay the price…
I have posted about gardenia perfumes before (see Kai, Jo Malone Vintage Gardenia, and a few more gardenia fragrances). Here are a few more that I tried recently:
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Pink Gardenia: In the Beaux Arts line, with notes of bergamot, gardenia, tuberose, ambergris and musk. It starts very light, with a touch of bergamot. The gardenia note comes on next, but stays very soft and low, then fades into a tuberose blend with a warm musky dry down. Much softer than all the white flowers might lead you to assume, and nicely done, although I prefer her Nouveau Gardenia…
Following up on yesterday’s article about Kai, here are a few more gardenia fragrances worth considering:
Monyette Paris: Another perfume oil, this one with gardenia, lily of the valley and nag champa incense. This is creamier and sweeter than Kai, and when worn right next to each other, the Monyette smells very much like vanilla sugar with a hint of incense and a dollop of suntan oil. Very beachy and tropical. I prefer Kai, but if Kai is too green for you, Monyette may be what you are looking for.
Creative Scentualization Perfect Gardenia: A very sweet gardenia with a touch of vanilla and musk. None of Kai’s greenery, none of Monyette’s nag champa, just a basic, sweet gardenia. Too plain for my taste, but might be nice for layering…