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Without the human, all you get is a blend

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Oui, he knows of several fragrance companies that use AI. And oui, he’s smelled some of those creations. He remains unimpressed. “So far, I haven’t seen anything unusual, daring, or striking,” he says. “Without the human, all you get is a blend.” Another analogy: “If you told a machine you like blue, red, and pink, and then you asked the machine [for a painting], you would never get a Mondrian!”

— Francis Kurkdjian on artificial intelligence in perfumery. Read more in Robots Are Coming For Your Beauty Collection — Is the fragrance industry ready for artificial intelligence? Are you? at Elle. Hat tip to Kevin!

It wasn’t half bad

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Google has its own perfume—or at least one team of the company’s researchers does. Crafted under the guidance of expert French perfumers, the mixture has notes of vanilla, jasmine, melon, and strawberries. “It wasn’t half bad,” says Alex Wiltschko, who keeps a vial of the perfume in his kitchen.

— Read more in Now the Machines Are Learning How to Smell at Wired.

Alternative ingredients

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One of the most significant proposed benefits of AI for fragrance creation is the ability for it to rapidly suggest alternative ingredients or formulas. The fragrance industry is currently responding to several cultural forces, like the rise of natural or “clean” fragrances limiting the use of synthetic ingredients, as well as the impact of raw ingredients from natural disasters or deforestation.

— Read more at Artificial intelligence is quietly disrupting the fragrance development process at Glossy.

Everything is based on the perfumer’s memory

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In perfumery, we do not really have direct access to all our ingredients, because everything is based on the perfumer’s memory. His memory of ingredients, of what they smell, of their accords… The problem is, memory works by getting rid of unused information to better focus on what’s new, which is why we forget about things.

— Perfumer Calice Becker, talking about Givaudan's new AI system, Carto. Read more at “We aim to put artificial intelligence at the service of perfumers’ creativity,” Calice Becker, Givaudan at Premium Beauty News, or see Givaudan Fragrances launches ‘Carto’, its Artificial Intelligence powered tool to reinvent the way perfumers create at the Givaudan website.

More impartial

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"I get the chance to see perfume formulas that I would never have thought of myself," says Apel. Because knowledge and experience often pose as limits to creativity: "I tend to prefer certain ingredients and want to make a very specific kind of scent," he admits.

Philyra is more impartial in her approach.

— Perfumer Dave Apel, talking about the artificial intelligence system Philyra (we have mentioned this before here and here). Read more at Artificial intelligence creates perfumes without being able to smell them at DW. (And Philyra's first fragrances have just launched: O Boticário Egeo On Me and Egeo On You; the text is in Portuguese.)

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