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Browsing by tag: anise

Hermes Brin de Reglisse ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 3 December 2007 45 Comments

Hermes Brin de Reglisse

Brin de Réglisse is the seventh fragrance to join the Hermessence collection from perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena at Hermès. As I reported last month, Ellena hoped to “create an intense, dry lavender, like you would smell in the south of France in June or July” (other notes include licorice, orange blossom and hay); to accomplish that, he…

…turned to his colleagues at an independent perfume lab in Grasse. He asked them to slice natural lavender into 50 distinct groups of molecules, sniffed them all, discarded five and reassembled it. “My lavender had a much purer, cleaner smell,” he says, comparing it with the natural scent. “Then I had to find something to dress it up that would be a little unusual. I chose a touch of licorice.” (via Los Angeles Times, 10/28/2007)…

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Perfume review: Guerlain Anisia Bella, with an aside on Etro Anice

Posted by Robin on 29 March 2006 19 Comments

Guerlain Anisia Bella fragrance

Anisia Bella was launched in 2004 as part of Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria range of fragrances. It was created by perfumer Aurelien Guichard, and has notes of aniseed, orange, bergamot, basil, star anise, violet, jasmine, liquorice wood, and cedar.

I love anise-based perfumes, and Anisia Bella is one of my favorites for warmer days when Serge Lutens Douce Amere or Caron Aimez Moi are too heavy. Anisia Bella opens with lightly sugared citrus; the anise is pronounced from the start and stays central through the dry down. There is a minty-peppery undertone from the basil and a bit of sweet violet drifts in and out, but for the most part it is all about the anise. The base is musky and woody, with a fair amount of cedar…

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Serge Lutens Douce Amere ~ fragrance review

Posted by Robin on 23 March 2006 62 Comments

Douce Amere fragrance components

Douce Amere was launched by Serge Lutens in 2000. The fragrance is described as a “fresh oriental”, and features notes of cinnamon, artemisia absinthium, anise, lily, jasmine, tiare flower, tagette, cedar, musk. The perfumer was Christopher Sheldrake.

Douce Amere is to my mind one of the glories of the Serge Lutens line. It centers on artemisia absinthium, the bitter herb also known as wormwood and famous as the source of the liquor absinthe. The fragrance starts with a brief flash of lemony citrus generously dusted with cinnamon: it is strong, and candy-sweet. The wormwood lends a bitter-green medicinal edge to the top notes, but it softens nicely as it dries down to something more like a milky pudding laced with black licorice, mildly spicy, with abstract floral notes and vague hints of something that smells very much like chocolate. It has a velvety finish, and a pale wood base…

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Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 1 July 2005 27 Comments

Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile

Acqua di Parma launched Iris Nobile in 2004. The fragrance was created by Francis Kurkdjian and Francoise Caron and features notes of iris petals, star anise, mandarin, bergamot, cedar flower, orange blossom, iris roots, vanilla and amber crystals.

Iris Nobile starts with sharp, sparkling citrus and strong undertones of anise…

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  • Updated notes for Prada Infusion de Figue https://t.co/9vfqkWf0I3 https://t.co/0c82XDet82, 7 hours ago
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