I've had trouble deciding what to wear lately, in these weeks when the weather around New York City keeps tilting between blustery and balmy, soggy and sunny — what clothing to wear, that is. I've had an easier time choosing fragrances that suit this season-shift. Some of them are old favorites, like Frédéric Malle L'Eau D'Hiver (the classic "eau chaude" scent). Others are perfumes that I've only encountered over the past year or even the past few months. Here are five of the latter.
Travel is always a good reason to buy a new perfume, and my recent trip to London included a visit to Liberty, just in time for the launch of their new LBTY fragrance collection. Each scent is inspired by, and packaged in, a textile design from Liberty's archives. I purchased a travel size of Wild Rosinda (shown above), developed for Liberty by perfumer Honorine Blanc with Hamid Merati-Kashani. It's a rose-and-wood blend, made to match a pattern of lush briar roses blooming against a shadowy background. Wild Rosinda's rose is slightly wine-y, and I was enjoying it when my husband said that whatever I was wearing "smells like a pub, in a good way" — so I think he was responding to the dry down of guaiac wood and amber, which could evoke an old wood interior with a fireplace, now that I think about it. LBTY Wild Rosinda is available as 100 ml and 8 ml ($65) Eau de Parfum ($320) at Liberty.
I do enjoy a good osmanthus fragrance, and Les Indémodables Cuir de Chine (shown just above) is a beauty, equal parts warm peach skin and new suede. (The ingredients for this fragrance, created by perfumer Florence Fouillet Dubois, include real osmanthus "alcoolat" and absolute as well as jasmine, tobacco and clary sage.) Cuir de Chine makes me want to put on my little faux-leather motorcycle jacket, take a breezy walk in the botanical garden to see the almost-budding fruit trees, and then come back inside to lounge comfortably with a peach-tinged whiskey cocktail. Available as 50 ml Eau de Parfum ($248) at Sainte Cellier and Luckyscent.
For another floral-leather scent that balances freshness and smoothness, I've been reaching for my sample of Perfumer H Suede (shown just above). Lyn Harris (the titular "H") is reportedly evoking the texture of suede here, rather than the actual smell of it; the names of her fragrances are often pleasingly oblique. Suede's composition includes notes of cucumber, neroli, violet leaf, ylang ylang, cassie, benzoin and musk, and its dewy-green lilac-and-cucumber effect reminds me of Frederic Malle En Passant. It's just as transparent as that longtime spring favorite, although perhaps a little more floral-forward — yet it also feels more gender-neutral, thanks to the very subtle and pale leather note in its base. Perfumer H Suede is available as 50 ml Eau de Parfum ($190) via the Perfumer H website.
Back in December, I had a chance to meet independent perfumer Shabnam Tavakol of Kismet Olfactive in her New York studio, and I'm still enjoying the fragrance samples I brought home that night. Nymphéas ("water lilies"; not shown) is "a floral fragrance exploring ambiguity, impermanence, and blurred perception." For me, it's a fascinating blend of nostalgia and discovery — the same effect (for me) of looking at an actual painting by Monet, perhaps. My nostalgia is prompted by Nymphéas's opening of watery lotus and lily of the valley notes, which reminds me more powerfully of Kenzo's Parfum D'Été than anything else I've ever smelled. After a while, however, this fragrance drifts into a deeper and more textured base of maté, vetiver and oakmoss that feels classic yet has its own distinct personality. Nymphéas is available as 10 ml ($68) and 50 ml ($175) Eau de Parfum at the Kismet Olfactive website.
I think everyone should have a violet perfume for spring. I own a few, with Guerlain Après L'Ondée topping the list, but I'm always ready to try more. When I finally had the chance to visit one of London's two Angela Flanders boutiques, I ended up purchasing a bottle of Josephine (shown just below), a romantic "nosegay" of a perfume created in honor of the French empress Joséphine. This fragrance starts off with a candied violet accord that deepens slightly as a base of cedar and oakmoss emerges. Traditional and timeless. Available as 30 ml ($53) and 50 ml ($113) Eau de Toilette or 5 ml Eau de Parfum ($92) at the Angela Flanders website.
How's the weather in your part of the world, and what fragrance(s) have you been choosing for it? Feel free to share in the comments.
We live in the same vicinity so your weather is my weather 🤣.
In any case, the one that I may try is Les Indomedables Cuir de Chine. Perfumer H Suede also sounds interesting!
I’ve been impressed by everything I’ve tried from Les Indémodables!!
The weather in Luxembourg is more or less constantly rainy with the odd sunny day thrown in. I keep telling myself that this is good for the vegetation but it does get a bit tedious! So I’m still pretty much wearing what I’ve been wearing all winter.
I was very pleased to see a mention of Cuir de Chine which is the only Indémodable I own so far. It is gorgeous, great for spring, and such an uplifting scent.
I’m interested to try the Nymphéas fragrance as I went through a couple of bottles of Parfum d’Eté before I started having too many perfumes. Thanks for mentioning it!
We have had a rainy stretch…but today is lovely! Sunny…just cool enough, just warm enough.
I went through multiple bottles of the Kenzo back when I only owned 3 or 4 perfumes and my tastes were a little different than they are now! Ah, the 90s.
Interesting post. Thanks Jessica. It’s a cold autumn here ( South Island, Aotearoa/ New Zealand) so I am tending towards amber scents, or scents that leave a leaf-mulch humus impression. Chypre Mousse has been on high rotation. Dusita Pavillion D’Or is another goodie as is Amouage Overture. For sparkly, clear blue sky days that throw up the yellow of the trees I like Ys-Uszac Lale. It’s one of my favourites.
Hello!! I love Perfumer H Dust and Les Indémodables Musc des Sables for ambers. I wore both regularly over our winter season.
Dusita makes so many beauties!
A mix of sun and rain, and for once we are cheering on the rain, as it would be great not to have a drought and forest fires galore. I’ve been wearing a mix of spring and winter scents; unlike my clothing wardrobes, which come in two seasons, I have all perfumes out at all times.
Oh, no more forest fires, please. 😢
Thank you very much for these reviews Angela. Spring weather is very changeable in the UK, but it’s been mild overall, sun and showers alternated this week.
In early spring I always look forward to wear my mimosa perfumes, I already wore Caron Farnesiana but I also have Perris Monte-Carlo Mimosa Tanneron and Le Couvent Mimosa. Like you I think it is also the time for violets, SL Bois de Violette, my favorite but also Guerlain Météorites first version, Caron Aimez-Moi, the charming Penhaligon’s Violetta, vintage Yardley April Violet, my new Gucci A kiss from violet oil, Carita, Terry de Gunzburg Ombre Mercure and it makes me realize that I have plenty of violet scents, I could go on…
It sounds like you had a smashing time in London and you inspire to go back to Liberty soon.
We shared so many violet loves…the Caron, the Guerlain, and the Terry de G (I need to find my travel spray of Ombre Mercure!). I love mimosa, too…esp Farnesiana and FM Une Fleur de Cassie.
Our visit to London really was wonderful!
Hello Jessica!
Lots of sunshine here along the Front Range in Colorado. But temperatures can swing wildly during the course of a week. It’s been close to 70 recently, and then other days have had high temps in the upper 30’s to low 40’s.
So almost anything goes!
I am still getting back into wearing perfume, so it’s hit or miss. Trying to avoid negative associations during a turbulent time. I think I may have avoided picking up any bad perfume vibes.
I’m sorry about your tough time! I hope things will ease soon, and that none of the bad experience will “stick” to your favorite scents.
Thank you for these reviews!
I’ve been considering Perfumer H a lot these past few months, and when I make a sample purchase, I’ll make sure to include Suede. I’m generally hesitant about leathers right now, but the promise of something that “feels” like En Passant sounds wonderful; it’s a perfume I’ve always wanted to love, yet couldn’t for whatever reason.
My favorite violet scent has been keeping me company since I found it this winter: Hiram Green’s Vivacious. It is so beautiful and comforting, cool but not cold, a smell of earth with just the birth of things. I have always admired the Guerlain violet greats and even owned bottles, but they felt too sweet. Vivacious is perfect.
As things warm up here in Kentucky, I’ve been renewing my romance with La Chasse aux Papillons and SL Fleurs d’Oranger—and starting a new love affair with Astier de Villatte Grand Chalet. I’m all about those white and yellow flowers.
I’m not usually a big “leather” perfume person, but the “suede” note in Suede is so subtle and soft — it’s really more of a cucumber/ylang/lilac scent, if that helps!
I have sample of Vivacious in one of my drawers. I need to dig it out, maybe wear it this evening (just for a quiet night at home)!
And YES to the orange blossoms and neroli. I love them as a pick-up-up in winter but they feel really perfect in spring, of course!