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BDK Parfums Sel d’Argent & Carthusia A’mmare ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 21 July 2022 12 Comments

My neighborhood feels a little quieter on summer weekends, due to many residents' migrations to and from the seashore. That's not something I personally do, because there are certain things about summer beaches that really make me miserable: the crowds, the noise, the excessive sunlight. I love the beach, on my own terms: off-season, in fall or spring, under slightly cloudy skies.

Since I can't always have the beach the way I like it, or I can't actually get there when the conditions are most favorable, I'm partial to beach-themed perfumes that let me imagine an ideal seashore visit. Two new additions to my rotation of beachy perfumes are BDK Parfums Sel d'Argent and Carthusia A'mmare, marine fantasies with different olfactory moods.

The promotional copy for BDK's Sel d'Argent reads...

The silver sea glimmers under the fading light. Our last swim was barely an hour ago and I can still taste the salt on my skin. The waves are subsiding little by little, and the moon, discreet, is rising in the sky as the red sun sets.

This description fits Sel d'Argent well.  As composed by perfumer Anne-Sophie Behaghel, this a late-afternoon interlude by the ocean, a marine scent that leans mineral and aromatic, rather than fruity — no Calone or coconut here. Sel d'Argent's official description mixes notes and ingredients: bergamot, grapefruit, salt accord, orange blossom, ylang ylang, galbanum, Ambroxan, Cashmeran, Timbersilk and white musk. Most prominent, to my nose, are a lingering bergamot, some black pepper, and a sheer ambergris base (courtesy of Ambroxan). Overall, this scent smells very "dry," like traces of salt and sand rather than an actual dip in the waves. It's linear and minimalist (but not skimpy), all-gender and easy to wear.

If Sel d'Argent is the scent equivalent of an Instagram photo of the beach, tastefully cropped and filtered just so, then Carthusia's A'mmare reminds me of a vintage postcard in saturated color that's been printed just slightly out-of-register. It's picturesque and fun and memorable. Carthusia describes A'mmare (whose name apparently means  "to the sea" in certain dialects of Italian) as...

...an authentic, almost secret garden, which opens up among the alleys of Capri and intertwining under the veil of the waves, brings to shore coral branches and vegetable compositions, together with shells and unexpected explosions of a natural heritage highlighted by a sunny day.

A'mmare was created for Carthusia by perfumer Luca Maffei and its notes include salt, rosemary and bergamot; water and mint; cedar, guaiac, musk and patchouli. As you might guess from that list, A'mmare has herbal and aquatic aspects that evoke beachy breezes, along with fruity notes that make me think of limoncello and orange-scented suntan oil. What surprised me most in this fragrance was a soapy, almost creamy accord, something lactonic — topped off with mint. I'm not sure where this milkiness fits into the overall picture, but it's sweet and soothing. A'mmare is a fanciful, almost rococo perfume, yet somehow everything comes together in this composition. (And yes, the bottle really is that delightful in person.

Whereas Sel d'Argent remains fairly close to my skin and lasts all day on my arms and wrists, A'mmare is more diffusive and has average staying power. I've been wearing Sel d'Argent to the office and A'mmare on weekends or for an evening cocktail with friends. I'm writing this review during a heat wave, when intense sun and hordes of people are even less appealing to me than usual — but with the right fragrance, I can remain in my air-conditioned seclusion and still imagine an ideal seaside getaway (or two).

BDK Parfums Sel d'Argent is available as 100 ml Eau de Parfum ($190) at Luckyscent, Osswald and the BDK website. Carthusia A'mmare is available as 50 ($100) and 100 ($140) Eau de Parfum, plus matching body products, at C. O. Bigelow and Beautyhabit. 

Possibly of interest

Zoologist Seahorse ~ fragrance review
Scent Trunk Aquione, Magnolia & Celestial Gala ~ fragrance reviews
Gallivant Bukhara & Une Nuit Nomade Nothing But Sea and Sky ~ fragrance reviews

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: anne-sophie behaghel, bdk, beachy, carthusia, luca maffei, summer

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12 Comments

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  1. LizzieB says:
    21 July 2022 at 12:44 pm

    I’m a Carthusia fan, and this sounds lovely. I prefer dry beachy scents to tropical.

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    • Jessica says:
      21 July 2022 at 9:12 pm

      Same here…I’m not a pina colada-perfume person! The Carthusia isn’t as “dry” as the BDK Sel d’Argent but it’s not ozonic and fruit-salady, either.

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  2. MossyBerry says:
    21 July 2022 at 2:32 pm

    Both sound very appealing, but I’d be more excited about the BDK if it were in that beautiful Carthusia bottle. Thanks for the excellent reviews!

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    • Jessica says:
      21 July 2022 at 9:14 pm

      I really have been enjoying my BDK Sel d’Argent sample, even though Carthusia’s packaging is hard to beat! Different aesthetics. ;)

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  3. Old Herbaceous says:
    21 July 2022 at 2:58 pm

    Coincidentally, my SOTD is A’mmare, which I bought in Milan this spring. It’s delightful! And I agree, the bottle is so appealing. I love its fresh but salty opening. It lasts pretty well on my skin, at least 5-6 hours.

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    • Jessica says:
      21 July 2022 at 9:15 pm

      Oh nice! What a good memory to have every time you wear the fragrance. They did a perfect job with this packaging, and I’m so glad I wasn’t disappointed by the scent! It’s really a perfect fit between contents and container.

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  4. nozknoz says:
    21 July 2022 at 3:51 pm

    These sound like must-tries — thanks for reviewing!

    I just love the feeling evoked by those old post cards and collected them at one point. They often show such odd things, such as a loop in an empty Appalachian highway. The sender was the receiver’s grandmother. What made her choose that card? It’s always a mystery.

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    • Jessica says:
      21 July 2022 at 9:16 pm

      I have a handful of those postcards, of my own city and other cities where I’ve lived…I love the older views and the odd coloration and yes, the inscriptions on the back! Like very short stories waiting to be interpreted.

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  5. littlecooling says:
    21 July 2022 at 4:26 pm

    Thank you for the review, J ☺️
    Both sounds really great and perfect for hot weather.
    I actually like both bottle but if I have to pick one, the Carthusia bottle looks very appealing ☀️

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    • Jessica says:
      21 July 2022 at 9:17 pm

      You’re so welcome, as always, N! They’re two different styles, as packaging and as perfumes, but I like both. :)

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  6. Kelly Red says:
    22 July 2022 at 11:27 am

    I’m wish you Jessica, give me a wild wind-blown beach on an overcast day. I love the north shore of Lake Superior! I’d burn to a crisp on a tropical beach lol.
    I do occasionally like Beach by Bobby Brown, but sometimes it gives me a headache. Never know which way it will go.

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    • Kelly Red says:
      22 July 2022 at 11:28 am

      With you, not wish you lol.

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