[perfumer Prin Lomros; listed fragrance notes of chamomile, açaí berry, lavender, violet leaf, marigold, beeswax, anise, jatamansi, jasmine, cumin, hay, frankincense, myrrh, mushroom, oak moss, vanilla and tonka bean]
Sloth has an "herbal potion" character when first applied; there's chamomile, light cumin and a hint of smoke. Sloth's next phase conjures an aroma I encountered once in an ancient Thai cemetery outside Chiang Mai (incense smoke mixing with floral notes from a grove of flowering frangipani trees). In mid-development, Sloth smells like a forest fire (not something one likes to associate with sloths who live high up in trees and move very slowly!) Leather and musky Indian spikenard (Nardostachys jatamansi) add oomph to the base, which wears down to incense ash with vanilla/benzoin. I enjoyed wearing Sloth; it has good projection and excellent lasting power.
Bat (2020 version)
[perfumer Prin Lomros; listed notes of fig, passion fruit, pink guava, soil accord, hay, incense, minerals, night blooming jasmine, animalic notes, leather, "mossy stones," teak and vetiver]
Original Zoologist Bat (by perfumer Ellen Covey) was a much-talked-about perfume: unusual, evocative and complex. Covey apparently never sold her formula to Zoologist for keeps and has now taken back the "recipe" and sells what was once Zoologist Bat as Night Flyer at her own company — Olympic Orchids Perfume.
Zoologist has this to say about new Bat on its website: "This perfume is a new interpretation of a fruit bat living in the tropics by perfumer Prin Lomros. The original version, designed by Ellen Covey, is discontinued and no longer available." Well, that's not quite true, is it? And it seems weird to me to keep Bat (with the original label) in the Zoologist line-up. Why this invitation to confusion and disgruntlement? Why not, for instance, create "Flying Fox" (a megabat!) to replace it? What's more magnificent than a flying fox?
New Bat is nowhere near as interesting as Covey's original Bat/current Night Flyer. Zoologist's new Bat is basically a fresh fig perfume (no shortage of those in perfume land); it starts with mildly earthy "fruit," mostly fig (with a hint of guava for a moment or two). New Bat smells more like a Beverly Hills man cave scented by a Diptyque Figuier candle than a bat cave (as original Bat certainly did). I'm betting lovers of the original "wild" Bat will find this version tame — a why-bother re-do.
Zoologist Sloth and (2020) Bat Extraits de Parfum are $165 for 60 ml; Olympic Orchids Perfume Night Flyer parfum is $65 for 30 or $120 for 100 ml.