If I'd been presented with Diptyque's new Eau de Minthé* in an unmarked vial, after the first sniff I'd have bet it was a vintage fougère perfume from the 1960s or 1970s. Eau de Minthé is hairy from eyebrows to toes, and brimming with testosterone.
Eau de Minthé goes on with a blast of bergamot mixing with peppery greens (geranium leaf is noticeable, too). As Eau de Minthé skids into mid-development I get scented hints of rose water, green tea(?), "chewing-gum" spearmint and Life Savers® wintergreen candy...and the first hit of patchouli. This patchouli is a growing child, and will tower over you within the next half hour.
When Eau de Minthé hits its stride, I smell smoky "moss" and (I believe) vetiver; the vegetation is thick in Eau de Minthé — sometimes fresh, other times dry and smoldering. Patchouli grows in strength in the base, and the perfume sweetens. At one point, a burly-masculine talcum powder aroma takes over (my favorite phase of Eau de Minthé).
From the moment you spray on Eau de Minthé you'll be noticed. The Eau de Parfum is so strong a 5 ml spray would last me a year (only one spray necessary for complete environmental control).
Diptyque Eau de Minthé will debut the first week of May (Nordstrom is taking orders now). I'm thrilled that a gutsy perfume has joined the Diptyque line-up; but will the white boxer-shorts (let it all hang out) and vintage/traditional character of this scent appeal to today's white musk addicts? Eau de Minthé is far, far away from Millennial pink, elevator perfumes, no-name scents, CLEAN laundry stuff and their listless ilk.
Eau de Minthé is available in 75 ml Eau de Parfum, $175.
* Perfumer: Fabrice Pellegrin; listed fragrance notes of spearmint, patchouli, geranium, rose oxide, fougère accord.
Thanks for the review Kevin 🙂
I have been waiting for a review of this perfume and it does sounds like a perfume I have to try. It might not be my style but who knows?
As always, I love the drawings on the bottle…but I do miss the old bottle shape 🙂
Lc: I should have saved one of the old bottles!
Same!
OMG, this sounds amazing!
Datura…hope you can try it soon.
“growing child that will tower over you in a half hour” made me laugh and informs my decision to stay far, far away. But glad it’s not insipid.
Galbanum, do still sniff…on a card! There are lots of greens to enjoy.
Me too, I miss perfumes with a backbone, and this one sounds like it’s right up my alley. I also miss the old bottle style.
I tested it briefly at the Diptyque boutique and was surprised and impressed by its character. A response perhaps to last year’s (was it just last year??) white musk bomb that is Fleur de Peau? I do like FdP occasionally.
Sv, a nice antidote to Fleur de Peau for sure.
Great review as always, Kevin! This one might be too “hairy” for me, but the character you describe makes me want to rush out and try it. ?
AnnE: definitely give it a sniff when you see it.
As a lover of Aramis, your review intrigues me.
CobraRose: I predict you’ll like Eau de Minthe.
Big patchouli, I can handle. “Hairy-chested”, not so much. It sounds like Eau de Minthe is much more to your taste than last year’s Tempo was, Kevin.
Jalapeno: I do like this better than Tempo, but won’t be buying a bottle. I’m not a fan of fougeres…unless they are candles or soaps. And it’s been years since I’ve been able to find vintage Fougere Royale…the only fougere I’ve ever loved.
Tom Ford ‘Patchouli Absolu’ was a full on macho hairy chested patchouli, but I really love it when I’m in the mood for that kind of thing
NT: Purple Patchouli was my favorite…still “upset” it was discontinued of all things in the line!
I LOVE Purple Patchouli. When I heard it was going to be discontinued I bought what I could & I still have 4 bottles left – enough to keep me going for a few more years ?
This has been on my radar ever since I first heard about it, but early reviews mention a highly synthetic Woody character. Kevin, did you get any of that?
LePetitCivet: I noticed a synthetic green-woody note for a brief minute or two in the segue between the opening and the heart…but only on up-close sniffing of skin. Never did I smell it “in the air” as I wore this and not during the nice base phase that lasts and lasts. It didn’t bother me.
Tnx Kevin!!
Sounds like Diptyque is entering Tom Ford style macho 70’s throwback beast mode territory
NT: it could certainly fit into that niche.
I feel invigorated just reading about it 🙂
I doubt i will love it but i am excited to give it a try. Thanks for your review, great style as always!
TriesToBeClassy: Thanks!
I’ve been curious about this one and I loved reading this review. I’m enjoying *your* enjoyment of it!
J, and congrats on the Frida Kahlo events…have read lots of press on them!
Is there any universe in which this is a woman’s fragrance? or unisex? I was in the Diptyque store in Lyon and the woman there suggested I purchase this for my gf here in NY… now I’m a little worried she was playing a cruel joke on me having me purchase her the MOST MASCULINE Diptyque fragrance. 🙁