If I'd been presented with Diptyque's new Eau de Minthé* in an unmarked vial, after the first sniff I'd have bet it was a vintage fougère perfume from the 1960s or 1970s. Eau de Minthé is hairy from eyebrows to toes, and brimming with testosterone.
Eau de Minthé goes on with a blast of bergamot mixing with peppery greens (geranium leaf is noticeable, too). As Eau de Minthé skids into mid-development I get scented hints of rose water, green tea(?), "chewing-gum" spearmint and Life Savers® wintergreen candy...and the first hit of patchouli. This patchouli is a growing child, and will tower over you within the next half hour.
When Eau de Minthé hits its stride, I smell smoky "moss" and (I believe) vetiver; the vegetation is thick in Eau de Minthé — sometimes fresh, other times dry and smoldering. Patchouli grows in strength in the base, and the perfume sweetens. At one point, a burly-masculine talcum powder aroma takes over (my favorite phase of Eau de Minthé).
From the moment you spray on Eau de Minthé you'll be noticed. The Eau de Parfum is so strong a 5 ml spray would last me a year (only one spray necessary for complete environmental control).
Diptyque Eau de Minthé will debut the first week of May (Nordstrom is taking orders now). I'm thrilled that a gutsy perfume has joined the Diptyque line-up; but will the white boxer-shorts (let it all hang out) and vintage/traditional character of this scent appeal to today's white musk addicts? Eau de Minthé is far, far away from Millennial pink, elevator perfumes, no-name scents, CLEAN laundry stuff and their listless ilk.
Eau de Minthé is available in 75 ml Eau de Parfum, $175.
* Perfumer: Fabrice Pellegrin; listed fragrance notes of spearmint, patchouli, geranium, rose oxide, fougère accord.