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Heretic Parfums Dirty Ginger ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 29 August 2018 27 Comments

For those of you whose first response to the words CUMIN + PERFUME is to clutch your pearls or bite your pinky ring...you may ignore Heretic Parfums Dirty Ginger;* this guy is dirty with the 'raunchy' spice.

Dirty Ginger starts with the aromas of traditional medicine (I'm thinking Ayurveda): dried fruit peels and herbs, leaves and seeds, stored next to a block of white camphor. The herbs move from the medicinal to the culinary realm quickly, and if you're in the mood for a good curry or Indian pickle (with its mustard seeds, ginger, vinegar and coriander), you may start to salivate. I do smell lime, but it's the great aroma of black lime (promised, but not delivered, in Hermès Eau de Citron Noir). Fresh ginger root is discernible but overwhelmed by the spice-box scents (think of the ginger as a background aroma in Dirty Ginger —  not the main scent character).

After Dirty Ginger's perky, enlivening opening, cumin arrives. On some wearings, the cumin was dry and dusty, a faint skin-scent cumin; it was as if I had lightly applied a talc of the powdered seeds to my skin. Other times, Dirty Ginger's cumin was fierce. When I applied Dirty Ginger sparingly (3-4 sprays), the cumin was well-behaved, and it paired beautifully with the sweet-woody base notes of vetiver and Palo Santo. When I went overboard and sprayed my usual (blush) 8-10 spritzes, cumin was more noticeable. Treat Dirty Ginger as two perfumes: one, lightly applied, with lots of interest and facets that you'll enjoy...or an audaciously applied cumin-y powerhouse that others can enjoy, too (or not...we're back to the pearl-grabbers/ring-biters).

I enjoy wearing Dirty Ginger and think it'll be perfect for autumn (which arrived overnight in Seattle...please go away, autumn, and come back the first week of November). I liked Dirty Ginger so much, I want to try the other 'dirty' Heretic scents: Dirty Neroli, Dirty Rose, and the new Dirty Lemon and Dirty Jasmine. Do comment if you've tried any of them.

Heretic Parfums Dirty Ginger Eau de Parfum is $210 (100 ml), $165 (50 ml) or $65 (15 ml); available at Twisted Lily or directly from Heretic Parfums (the 15 ml size).

*Listed notes of black pepper, lime, cumin, ginger, shiso leaf, Palo Santo, vetiver, clary sage.

Possibly of interest

Diptyque L’Autre ~ fragrance review
DS & Durga Italian Citrus and Stora Skuggan Silphium ~ fragrance reviews
Parfums MDCI Fetes Persanes ~ fragrance review

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: heretic parfums, spicy

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27 Comments

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  1. Deva says:
    29 August 2018 at 2:23 pm

    Oh my! (Clutching my fake pearls!). This sounds fantabulous! I may need to break my “no sample” rule and pick me up some dirt…

    Never heard of the brand so thanks for bringing it to my attention. If you like it, I know it must be pretty dang good✌????

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    • Downtown Scott says:
      29 August 2018 at 2:47 pm

      This is definitely a brand to try. There are several scents that I’m crazy for. ????

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    • Kevin says:
      29 August 2018 at 2:48 pm

      Deva: glad you’re getting a sample first…hope you like it!

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    • nicolasix says:
      29 August 2018 at 3:16 pm

      This is a new brand for me too, and I LOVE cumin & will need to sample this one!

      (if any cumin lovers out there are looking for a rec, L’Artisan Al Oudh is my favorite scent with an in-your-face cumin note)

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      • Kevin says:
        29 August 2018 at 4:58 pm

        nicolasix: I’ll second Al Oudh and add Philtre Ceylan (Atelier)

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        • lillyjo says:
          29 August 2018 at 6:21 pm

          Philtre Ceylan nearly killed me. At least now I know why. Thanks!

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          • Kevin says:
            29 August 2018 at 8:20 pm

            lillyjo: lots seems to have had that reaction.

  2. Downtown Scott says:
    29 August 2018 at 2:46 pm

    I’m still undecided on Dirty Ginger. Maybe it will agree with me in fall. I definitely want to try Dirty Lemon. The ad/packaging is a little edgy. ????.

    I am thrilled to learn they offer 15mL scents. I’m a big fan of Holi Water, Blood Cedar and Pistil Whip but can’t afford the full bottle price but can talk myself into the 15mL price. These scents are fantastic and well blended. Besides I have a perfumer crush on Douglas Little. ????

    I heard Raunchy Spice was one of the original Spice Girls before she was bounced out.

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    • Kevin says:
      29 August 2018 at 2:53 pm

      DScott: yes, I love the Heretic visuals…esp the new Dirty Lemon. I’m happy so many niche houses are able to offer smaller bottles, too.

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    • Bear says:
      29 August 2018 at 7:02 pm

      The ‘rough trade’ photo made me roll my eyes, rather than be intrigued. Been there, done that. Yawwwnnn……………zzzzz

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      • Kevin says:
        29 August 2018 at 8:22 pm

        Bear: HA. He seems more “delicate trade” to me…with his arty tattoos, hair product, etc.

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  3. littlecooling says:
    29 August 2018 at 3:44 pm

    Palo Santo..I’m in!
    And what’s the point of getting clean, if we can’t get a little dirty? 😉

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    • Kevin says:
      29 August 2018 at 4:58 pm

      littlecooling: indeed! And the Palo Santo in this is very nice.

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  4. kevtronic says:
    29 August 2018 at 6:23 pm

    I love it when u love the perfume you’re reviewing!!

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    • Kevin says:
      29 August 2018 at 8:23 pm

      kevtronic: it happens!

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  5. michou83 says:
    29 August 2018 at 6:46 pm

    Dirty Ginger is one my very favorite scents. I bought it as a sample, wore it ONCE and had to buy the bottle. I adore the strong, bitter notes and it’s easily one of the most unique scents I own. I also own Dirty Lemon and it was such a surprise. I can definitely smell the Lemon but the other notes give it such a fantastic complexity. I want to try Dirty Jasmine, and tried a few others (Dirty Rose, Dirty Neroli) and did not like them nearly as much as Ginger and Lemon. I also really like the scents Holi Water, Jasmine Smoke and Blood Cedar by Heretic.

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    • Kevin says:
      29 August 2018 at 9:42 pm

      michou: thanks…must try the Dirty Lemon!

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  6. hajusuuri says:
    29 August 2018 at 11:08 pm

    Thanks for the warning. Cumin is a non-starter for me so I won’t be trying any of these. Money saved!

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    • Kevin says:
      29 August 2018 at 11:30 pm

      hajusuuri: I don’t think all the “Dirty” line have cumin in them…from what I can tell indoles, that “grapefruit-type” sweaty note, pepper will supply the dirt. I need to try them all to see….

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  7. nozknoz says:
    30 August 2018 at 1:07 am

    Not a cumin lover, but your review made me get out the Rochas Femme. 😉

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    • nozknoz says:
      30 August 2018 at 1:10 am

      PS: I think you would enjoy Kyarazen on instagram. Check him out, if you haven’t already:

      https://www.instagram.com/aloeswoods/?hl=en

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      • Kevin says:
        30 August 2018 at 1:00 pm

        Noz: just checked out Kyarazen and you were right!

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  8. gunmetal24 says:
    30 August 2018 at 10:22 am

    Dirty Ginger was one of the better offerings from Heretic Parfums for me. But like your experience, the cumin is unstable on my skin hence I’ve given it a pass for a full bottle. The rest of the fragrance is lovely though. I wouldn’t mind getting a 15ml sample if Twisted Lily decides to stock them.

    Dirty Rose – smells like a natural version of Nicolai Parfums Rose Oud, minus the woody amber aromachemicals. Quite muted, pleasant smelling but not unique.

    Dirty Neroli – I disliked this one but I don’t quite remember why. I believe this one is really really dirty smelling.

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    • Kevin says:
      30 August 2018 at 1:03 pm

      gunmetal: thanks for your notes…now really intrigued to smell Dirty Neroli. And remember, you can get the 15 ml directly from Heretic.

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  9. Masha says:
    31 August 2018 at 9:59 am

    This brand has a very enticing Discovery Set…hmmm…..

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  10. mayfly says:
    4 September 2018 at 2:03 pm

    These sound intriguing, and I love cumin!, Kevin, have you tried Miller Harris Vetiver Insolent?, it’s a lovely spicy Vetiver, really nice for autumn.

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    • Kevin says:
      4 September 2018 at 11:10 pm

      mayfly: I’ll have to look into that one…am in the market for a new vetiver for autumn.

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