• About
  • Login to comment
    • Facebook
    • RSS
    • Twitter

Now Smell This

a blog about perfume

Menu ▼
  • Perfume Reviews
  • New Perfumes
  • Perfumers
  • Perfume Houses
  • Shop for perfume
  • Resources

Olympic Orchids Tropic of Capricorn ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 23 April 2018 27 Comments

Occasionally reviews describe a fragrance as smelling “vintage.” To me, it signals that the fragrance follows the conventions of a classic perfume style, like a floral aldehyde with a musk-sandalwood-vetiver base, or a mossy chypre. Besides that, it often means that a perfume simply isn’t fashionable.

Olympic Orchids Tropic of Capricorn smells vintage, in the animalic, leathery way of Caron Narcisse Noir Extrait. It’s definitely not fashionable, but it has a lot of style. This is a perfume for Gloria Swanson in Sunset Boulevard.

Ellen Covey is the nose behind Tropic of Capricorn, which launched in 2013. It’s made with 100% natural materials, including mango fruit, jasmine, frangipani, tuberose, magnolia, osmanthus, maile vine, Bourbon vanilla, Africa stone, ambergris, benzoin and New Caledonian sandalwood. It only comes in Extrait form. The Olympic Orchids website says of the fragrance:

It’s called “Tropic of Capricorn” in honor of the theme, the winter season when it was created, and Henry Miller’s work in which he writes about “the dark fecundity of nature, … a night so frighteningly silent, utterly incomprehensible and eloquent at the same time.” The perfume creates the aura of a still, humid tropical night redolent with the scent of exuberant, blooming life, quick death, and the almost immediate rebirth that springs out of the dead flowers, something sensed at a level below conscious thought.

Reading this, do you picture decomposing sludge sprouting flowering vines admid rotting fruit? Translate that image into scent, and you have Tropic of Capricorn — at least, initially.

Just after drizzling Tropic of Capricorn on my forearm, I smell leather, Scotch whisky, silver spoons, damp mulch, and the mango I put in the crisper drawer a month ago and forgot about until today. It smells of decay and rooms that haven’t been opened in decades. It’s one formidable fragrance. It wins the “least likely to be duped at Bath & Body Works” prize. All those lovely floral notes listed above? They’re quivering in the corner, afraid to come out lest they be steamrolled by iodine, sludge, and leather.

After twenty minutes or so, Tropic of Capricorn stubs out its cigarette and says, “Well, since we’re both stuck here, why not chat a bit?” It relaxes. It becomes less aggressively animalic and sweetens as amber and sandalwood muscle in. Now I smell fruit and a bit of the garden. Tropic of Capricorn is like a big but young wine that is tight and unapproachable until it wakes up to breathe with you for a while. “Scary? Just kidding,” it seems to say. “Now you understand me, don’t you?” And it's delicious.

Tropic of Capricorn lasts a good six hours on my skin — not bad for an all-natural scent. If I owned a bottle, I’d be tempted to save it for damp mornings in the garden, or for cocktail events in a bias-cut 1930s gown. Tropic of Capricorn isn’t for the faint of heart, but if you’re a fan of Vero Profumo Onda and Caron Narcisse Noir in Extrait (and maybe of noir films, blood purple lipstick, and duck liver pâté), it’s worth sampling.

Do you have a favorite contemporary fragrance that feels vintage to you? Please share!

Olympic Orchids Tropic of Capricorn is available in Extrait only in a 5 ml travel spray ($25), 15 ml screw-top bottle ($65), and 30 ml atomizer ($120). A sample is $6. You can buy it at the Olympic Orchids scent website and at Potion Natural Fragrances.

Possibly of interest

Olympic Orchids Mardi Gras ~ fragrance review
Top 10 Summer Fragrances 2016
Olympic Orchids White Cattleya ~ new perfume

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: natural perfume, olympic orchids

Advertisement


27 Comments

Leave a comment, or read more about commenting at Now Smell This. Here's our privacy policy, and a handy emoticon chart.

  1. littlecooling says:
    23 April 2018 at 3:04 pm

    Very lovely and funny review 🙂
    I am very intrigued to find a sample of this..and since I’m a capricorn, perhaps it will suits me 😉

    I have-since it was launched-thought that Balenciaga “Paris” smells vintage to me. Perhaps new vintage. But every time I smell it, I always thinks of the 70’s and lush violet bouquets on a teakwood sidebord in a Victorian home 🙂
    I love the fragrance, but it is not that often I wear it but when I do, it makes me smile 🙂

    Log in to Reply
    • Angela says:
      23 April 2018 at 4:13 pm

      I adore your description of Balenciaga Paris! I wonder if it’s the violet that makes it feel old fashioned? It’s been too long since I’ve smelled it.

      Log in to Reply
      • littlecooling says:
        23 April 2018 at 4:50 pm

        I think it is the violets that gives it a vintage feeling-but I’m not sure ????
        The fragrance always makes me think of another perfume I use to wear doing the 90’s, but I simply cannot remember what it was.
        I think I need to wear it more often.
        For me it’s spring/autumn perfume..I can’t wear it doing winter or summer ????

        Log in to Reply
        • Angela says:
          23 April 2018 at 5:49 pm

          Violets are kind of old fashioned, but so charming. It’s spring now–time to wear it!

          Log in to Reply
          • littlecooling says:
            24 April 2018 at 4:55 am

            I absolutely agree ????

  2. Kanuka says:
    23 April 2018 at 3:13 pm

    Great review. I’d like to compare ToC with Lush’s Death and Decay as that also encapsulates a rich and heavy (lily) scent of decay

    Log in to Reply
    • Angela says:
      23 April 2018 at 4:13 pm

      Death and decay goes on my list to sample!

      Log in to Reply
  3. Jessica says:
    23 April 2018 at 3:19 pm

    I’m a shallow person, but all I can think of is a certain episode of “Seinfeld,” when Jerry was accused of never returning a library book…

    Log in to Reply
    • Angela says:
      23 April 2018 at 4:12 pm

      How could I not remember that episode? I was sure I’d seen them all, twice, even. Now I’m going to go look it up….

      Log in to Reply
  4. nicolasix says:
    23 April 2018 at 4:53 pm

    Thanks for the review! That 5ml is a bit tempting, even though I feel duty-bound to ignore anything done in homage to the overrated Henry Miller.

    DSH’s Chinchilla is very vintage-smelling to me; the furry note recalls the days when wearing fur was not so politically incorrect . . .

    Log in to Reply
    • Angela says:
      23 April 2018 at 5:50 pm

      I’m not a big Henry Miller fan, either, so I understand your dilemma!

      Log in to Reply
  5. johanob says:
    23 April 2018 at 4:58 pm

    Well I love Noir Films and Foie Gras…so this sounds right up my alley!Will try and sample asap.
    a contemporary fragrance that smells vintage to me?
    Two came immediately to mind.
    ELdO’s The Afternoon of a Faun.When I first smelled it,I thought woah…something is off.Then I tested and tested…and fell in love with the dark foresty-mulchy,slightly sweet oldfashioned chypre.Perfect for Fall weather we arr currently having.
    Second one!Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady.That huge overdose of Patchouli-Rose reminds me every time of a certain fur coat my mother used to wear,on nights out to functions during Winter.She used to lavishly spray the coat-her final touch-with whatever perfume she decided to wear that evening.Over the years,many nights out,many perfumes lavishly sprayed,despite several times being cleaned also,a perfume made out of all the previous perfumes sprayed on it,emerged.It smells of seventies hippie shops,lush rose gardens,cigarette smoke and champagne,Elnett hairspray and who knows what else.But when I smell it really close-up?Portrait of a Lady.And my Mother.
    Awesome Review!
    X

    Log in to Reply
    • springpansy says:
      23 April 2018 at 5:01 pm

      Love this memory!

      Log in to Reply
      • Angela says:
        23 April 2018 at 5:50 pm

        Me, too!

        Log in to Reply
    • Angela says:
      23 April 2018 at 5:51 pm

      I adore Afternoon of a Faun! It’s hiding at the back of my perfume cabinet, but as soon as I’m finished with this comment I’m going to move it to the front.

      And I also adore your memory of your mother’s scent. Your description is absolutely perfect and absolutely Portrait of a Lady. Thank you!

      Log in to Reply
  6. nozknoz says:
    23 April 2018 at 5:48 pm

    Thanks for this review, Angela. I keep forgetting to explore this line, and I really should, based on its fans.

    In terms of contemporary perfumes that feel vintage, I immediately thought of Roja Dove Diaghilev, but that’s too easy, because his express intention is to replicate vintage richness.

    Next would be is Eris, which aims to bring vintage glamour to modern life. I’m always surprised by how remarkably well Barbara Herman and Antoine Lie accomplish this.

    I was also intrigued when Sarah McCartney explained via skype at Arielle Shoshana that she likes to create vintage/classical perfumes for modern lives. She’s even done a date/place series that is specifically focused on recreating a certain period and place (like New York 1968, IIRC) and using only ingredients that were available at that time. Her fragrances don’t smell old or imitative at all, and they are easy to wear, but I think drawing on place, time, and personal stories is what makes them so interesting and pleasing.

    My favorite response to this question, though, has to be Thierry Mugler Oriental Express from his Les Exceptions series. In general, this series takes classic perfume themes into the 21st century. To me, Oriental Express is a streamlined, sci-fi version of Shalimar.

    Log in to Reply
    • Angela says:
      23 April 2018 at 5:54 pm

      Thank you for the thoughtful response! Yes, of course, the Eris line smells wonderfully vintage. Vintage perfume lovers should definitely check it out.

      Now I’m curious about Sarah McCartney, too. And Mugler Oriental Express. I’m so behind!

      Log in to Reply
  7. Kevin says:
    23 April 2018 at 6:34 pm

    Angie: is the Africa stone/hyraceum noticeable? That’s one note I ABHOR…vintage piss.

    Log in to Reply
    • Angela says:
      23 April 2018 at 7:07 pm

      It definitely does have an animalic whiff, but more on the leathery side. Still, it might be a risky scent for you….

      Log in to Reply
  8. MikasMinion says:
    24 April 2018 at 8:31 am

    I do love when my favorites get a review. To me it smells like hot, steamy rainforest in the early afternoon. With an opening redolent of peaches rotting under the tree. So funky and beautiful. Love it.

    Log in to Reply
    • Angela says:
      24 April 2018 at 10:37 am

      “Funky and beautiful” is a tantalizing description of almost anything!

      Log in to Reply
  9. Luna Green says:
    24 April 2018 at 10:02 am

    You’ve outdone yourself with this review. Brava!

    Log in to Reply
    • Angela says:
      24 April 2018 at 10:38 am

      I’m so glad you enjoyed it!

      Log in to Reply
  10. Coin-op says:
    24 April 2018 at 1:04 pm

    Well, this perfume does not sound appealing to me, but I enjoyed this review so much – “‘least likely to be duped at Bath & Body Works’ prize”????

    I always look forward to your articles Angela!

    Log in to Reply
    • Angela says:
      24 April 2018 at 2:09 pm

      Thank you! If I can provide an entertaining read, at least, I’m happy!

      Log in to Reply
  11. stina says:
    24 April 2018 at 4:43 pm

    I have to try this, it sounds amazing! Kind of like the lovechild of LM Parfums Hard Leather and old-school Diorella.

    They went all-out vintage with this one; the bottle is identical to the half-ounce bottles for the old Deltah extraits from the 1930s. The Vintage Perfume Vault did a post on the Deltah brand back in 2010:

    http://thevintageperfumevault.blogspot.com/2010/03/deltah-no-7-perfume.html

    Scroll down to the image of Deltah Midnight Hour (it’s a gorgeous dark incense, along the lines of Lelong Sirocco and Coty Styx, with a touch of orange).

    Great review! I feel a sampling run coming on …

    Log in to Reply
    • Angela says:
      24 April 2018 at 4:55 pm

      I am such a sucker for those old perfume bottles! Thank you for the link. And now I’m craving old Diorella.

      Log in to Reply

Leave a reply Cancel reply

You must be logged in to post a comment.

Advertisement

Search

Browse by...

Topic

Perfume talk New fragrances
Shopping Books :: News
Body products Home fragrance
Polls Another subject

Date

September 2023
August 2023
July 2023
June 2023
May 2023
April 2023

Prior months

Author

Robin Jessica
Angela Kevin
Erin Guest Author

Tag

Celebrity perfumes
Cheap thrills
Collector bottles
Perfumista tip series
Video
The complete tag index

Recent reviews

Atelier Cologne Love Osmanthus
Moschino Toy Boy
Arquiste Misfit
Diptyque Eau Capitale
Zoologist Bee
Parfum d’Empire Immortelle Corse
Comme des Garcons Series 10 Clash
Frédéric Malle Rose & Cuir
L’Artisan Parfumeur Le Chant de Camargue
Yves Saint Laurent Grain de Poudre
Régime des Fleurs Chloë Sevigny Little Flower
Chanel 1957
Gallivant Los Angeles
Amouage Portrayal Woman

Blogroll

Bois de Jasmin
Grain de Musc
Perfume Posse
The Non-Blonde
More blogs...

Perfumista lists

100 fragrances every perfumista should try
And 25 more fragrances every perfumista should smell
50 masculine fragrances every perfumista should try
26 vintage fragrances every perfumista should try
25 rose fragrances every perfumista should try
11 Cheap Perfumes Beauty Outsiders Love

Favorite posts

The Great Perfume Reduction Plan
Why I Love Old School Chypres
New to perfume and want to learn more?
How to make fragrance last through the day
Fragrance concentrations: sorting it all out
On reformulations, or why your favorite perfume doesn’t smell like it used to
How to get fragrance samples
Perfume for Life: How Long Will Your Fragrance Collection Last?

Upcoming

List of upcoming Friday projects

 

Back to Top

Home
About Now Smell This :: Privacy Policy
Perfume Reviews
New Perfumes
General Perfume Articles
The Monday Mail

Glossary of Perfume Terms
Perfume FAQ
Perfume Books

Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

Copyright © 2005-2023 Now Smell This. All rights reserved.