For me, vintage clothing falls into two categories. The first category includes dresses that make a statement because of their obviously unfashionable color, print, and/or cut.1 A Nixon-era shift in a daisy print might fit here, or a full-skirted 1950s day dress. The second category encompasses clothing that seems just a bit out of style from its color or hemline, but that’s easily absorbed into a modern wardrobe. Examples here would be a 1970s saddle leather handbag or a vintage cashmere twin set. The quality of the bag tells you it's no modern-day mall purchase, and the offbeat robin's-egg blue of the cashmere cardigan reads more as Doris Day than Taylor Swift, but is easily worn with whatever pair of pants you pull out of your closet.
Galanos from Parfums Galanos fits neatly into the second category. This floral oriental fragrance is built on the kind of elegant moss-musk-woods base that used to haunt lunch rooms at fancy department stores when women still wore girdles. Its honeyed spice and floral heart jumps forward a few decades and hints at the Yves Saint Laurent Opium-hazed disco era. In short, Galanos is both classic and dated — my kind of fragrance.
Galanos was introduced 1979, and its notes include lily of the valley, gardenia, rose, jasmine, carnation, geranium, vanilla, cedar, oak moss, tonka, musk, coriander, bay, clove and cypress. It won the FIFI in 1980 for best women’s fragrance in the prestige category. Practically no one remembers it anymore.
In Parfum, Galanos kicks off with a warm citrus, lily of the valley, and orange blossom that’s already infused with spice. It’s round and soft and wants to be ladylike with its genteel floral heart, but coriander, bay, clove, and honey — not enough to shout “bakery” but enough to whisper “souk” — give it a more modern feel. Well, modern for 1979.
Over the next few hours, Galanos lazily transitions to a lovely moss and ambered woods base with a well-behaved musk fluffing it out. At this point, it's almost the definition of the classic floral-oriental fragrance in the grand style. It burns softly and hazily along, close to the skin, until way past dinner.
The generous friend who gave me her bottle of Galanos said it turns to sour tuberose on her. Lucky for me, the fragrance’s white flowers stay carefully blended with the rest of the fragrance and don’t stand out on my skin.
From looking at ads online, my guess is that my bottle is from the late 1990s or later. If you’ve tried earlier versions, please comment! Perfumes Galanos Galanos is discontinued but is available online for less than $30 for 15 ml of Parfum.
1. In my opinion, fashion and style aren’t the same thing. I’d even argue that the most stylish people are often the least fashionable.
I’ve never smelled this, but “classic and dated” is VERY much in my wheelhouse. It sounds like a typical late-seventies floral oriental, which is to say wonderful.
I think you’re right on the money with your assessment!
“Classic and dated” always catches my attention, too. I had to chase down a relevant quote from Yves St Laurent and finally found it: “Fashion passes, style remains”. Exactly.
What a great quote! Perfect.
Oh my goodness, my aunt wore this for years….. she has dementia now; I wonder if she’d remember it?! She is one of the reasons I love perfume so much, we always shared that joy!
It sounds absolutely gorgeous, exactly my taste. Thank you so very much for reviewing it!
I love it that it reminds you of the aunt who introduced you to perfume!
My mother wore this in the 80’s! I certainly remember it.
It’s the sort of fragrance I can imagine lots of people’s moms wearing! Did you like it?
Yes, it was lovely on her.
The 80s! That bottle is the perfect evocation of one of his extravagant gowns. BTW, there are 100 vintage Galanos items listed on 1stdibs right now.
Also interesting: Galanos worked for both Hattie Carnegie and Robert Piguet, neither of whom was any slouch in the perfume department. (Not that I’ve ever smelled a Hattie Carnegie, but those figural bottles are outstanding.)
http://www.latimes.com/fashion/la-me-james-galanos-20161102-story.html
Nice facts! I used to have a tiny bottle of Hattie Carnegie perfume, and it was a straightforward sweet floral.
Wow, 1stdibs sells perfume? I remember the beautiful magazine ads for Galanos gowns. Truly a glorious era, perfume and all.
I’ll never forget a black Galanos cocktail dress I saw once with a stand away collar. Gorgeous.
Mon Angel… HOW WEIRD! I am Literally, betting on a bottle of this exact fragrance on eBay right now! I was so interested in it for quite some time and decided my Mom needed a Bottle of this. Smashing review and just definitely now lets me know I was on the right track in deciding to get this! Great Minds, eh…???
:-*
You’re so thoughtful in trying for some of this for your mother! I hope she loves it.