Niche line Escentric Molecules line will launch their fourth fragrance duo. Molecule 04 and Escentric 04 focus on Givaudan's sandalwood molecule Javanol; both fragrances were developed by perfumer and brand founder Geza Shoen.
Molecule 04 (above left) ~ "Imagine a sandalwood stripped of its heaviness to reveal a soft and sheer wood radiating silvery freshness. This is Javanol. And this is the heart, body and soul of Molecule 04."
Escentric 04 (above right) ~ "The heart of Escentric 04 is orris with a 'fresh soft rose' that Schoen composed from four different rose materials. The dry down is balsamic and woody, with Javanol in combination with the somewhat sweeter sandalwood molecule, Polysantol." Additional notes include pink grapefruit, bergamot, juniper berry, pink pepper, hedione, freesia, osmanthus, mastic, labdanum, iso e super, musk, ambroxan, castoreum and vetiver.
Escentric Molecules Molecule 04 and Escentric 04 are $150 each for 100 ml Eau de Toilette, and can be pre-ordered now at Luckyscent.
Update: the pair is also available in 30 ml, $85 each packaged with a travel case or $65 each for a refill.
I like the Escentric bottles but it takes a certain kind of nerve to dilute $2 worth of Javanol in water and alcohol and sell it for $150.
Indeed, although it’s probably an accurate representation of how fragrance pricing works — the juice is rarely a major factor.
I have liked the previous Escentric scents, though, and even if I wouldn’t pay for the Molecule ones, it is interesting to get a sample if you want to be able to identify synthetic aromachemicals.
In this case, sandalwood “stripped of its heaviness” is exactly what I don’t like about modern sandalwood. Would like to try Escentric 04 anyway to see what he’s done with it, but not sure I care about Molecule 04.
Oh, I know you’re right about the price (versus the perceived value) of the contents of the bottle: what strikes me as audacious is that the Molecule scents aren’t even composed — they’re literally just a few drops of an existing aromachemical in solution. Even the lousiest perfumes have a creator who put some thought, however minimal, into their structure.
I know — but these “pairs” have a conceptual purpose, and Geza Shoen does do a composed perfume in each pair, right? It’s sort of like the Molecule scent allows him to teach his audience a little bit about what he is doing. I think it’s kind of cool, although you could argue that he ought to do a very small size of the Molecule scent and include it with the Escentric instead of selling it separately.
At any rate, they don’t piss me off at all. Juliette Has a Gun Not A Perfume, and the other series by Lab On Fire, those do sort of get my goat.
*deep eye roll at Molecule 4*
Why not go to Ye Olde Hippie Store and get some genuine sandalwood soap from India instead? Or the infused oil? In the summer, that works a treat, plus the soap can help sun irritated skin.
Escentric 4 on the other hand DOES sound interesting.
Well, let’s face it, there is not much genuine Mysore sandalwood to be had. I don’t know what they’re using in soaps from India these days, but it’s hard to see how there is enough sustainable Mysore sandalwood to account for the products you see on the market. And if it isn’t from one of the sustainable programs, then it seems ethically wrong to buy the products. I know some perfumers stopped using real sandalwood for just that reason.
(Mind you, I am no expert. This is just my shallow understanding of the problem, and it could be quite wrong. Victoria at Bois de Jasmine knows way more than I do, and she is a good source of updated info if you want to know more than me.)
Australian sandalwood is decent, but it is not the same.
Hey Robin- thank you for this! And allow me to amend: What I meant was to just simply to get the sandal wood soap, if what people want is the skin scent, and saving maybe $140?
Yes, in that case, absolutely!
The “genuine sandalwood soap from India” does not exists any more. If you are lucky to have some old stock, hold on to it; otherwise, all of it is using synthetic scents, Javanol and the likes, or semi-natural composition using amyris or other sandalwood substitutes. During my recent trip to India I did make an effort to try to find actual sandalwood oil for sale in places that otherwise sell very respectably authentic wares, with no luck. You can still find sculptures made from sandalwood wood, but they are made from immature trees and smell like nothing much. Oil made from mature trees, roots in particular, has the depth that is unmatched by any other types.
When it comes to sandalwood trees management and sandalwood oil production, India blew it, and that’s it. It’s ridiculous considering how important sandalwood is to India.
Australian sandalwood from Santalum Spicatum trees is nice in its own right, but Australia also started planting the Santalum Album trees a while ago and is now starting to produce small amounts of oil from them. I got a sample directly from Australia and it is very lovely oil. Let’s hope for the best.
Thank you for this! I have a couple of bars from the local Indian spice and supply store and I am pretty sure it’s synthetically scented OR made with itsy bitsy amount of the real stuff blended with synthetics. No worries, as I keep the soaps in my clothing drawers and use them more as pomanders than anything!
Point made with how resources can be absolutely exhausted without thoughtful management.