Monday started with a blast (of snow) and a flammable propane tanker truck rolling over on the I-5 freeway near downtown Seattle, shutting down two freeways and blocking traffic for over seven hours. I left work early that day and it took me three and one-half hours to drive home (a measly nine miles). As I sat in traffic I cursed cars that blocked intersections for 10-15 minutes, Seattle city planners who made a system of inadequate roads that cease to function in rain(!), snow or if one mishap happens on the freeway...and I cursed myself. I had only gone one mile from work (it took me an hour to do this) when I realized what a stupid mistake I had made to drink 24 ounces of water before leaving my office. What to do?
Review perfume, that's what!
I took from my bag my tester of Olivier Durbano Lapis Philosophorum (Philosopher's Stone) and immersed myself in it for the next two and one-half hours of my grueling drive — a car is a great place to try out a perfume. Too bad Lapis Philosophorum added boredom, not relief, to an otherwise jittery journey.
Lapis Philosophorum opens with the scents of aggressive "rubbing alcohol," weak grapefruit and strong/dank immortelle (is this supposed to make me think "white truffle" as the perfume promises?) The immortelle lasts a long time but you have to pay attention to detect other fragrance notes. Wine dregs are there, but the aroma stays close to the body and quickly vanishes. Next up are sheer frankincense; a fleeting scent that reminds me of vinegar-y Indian curry sauce (perhaps the fenugreek aspect of immortelle); and woody notes, decidedly phony (Iso E Super stands out). There's also a note that smells of medicated pimple cream (a type of musk I'm guessing).
Given its inspiration and its perfume house, Lapis Philosophorum was a huge disappointment, and didn't improve on subsequent wearings. To me, it's the dud of the Olivier Durbano line.
Lapis Philosophorum is a great lesson in ignoring lists of fragrance notes: how could you go wrong with calamus, juniper, rum, white truffle, grapefruit, wine sediment, Oman frankincense, mesquite, ambergris, menthol, opoponax, myrrh, musk, oak moss? Easily, it seems; I don't smell ten of those notes.
Second lesson of the week: don't drink and drive!
Olivier Durbano Lapis Philosophorum Eau de Parfum is $205 for 100 ml. For buying information, see the listing for Olivier Durbano under Perfume Houses.
I don’t doubt your perceptions, and I’ve been called a “niche hater” (at BN) because I find so much recent niche as you have this scent, but to be fair, I do recall a scientist saying most people can only detect 4 distinct notes (at most) at a time. What I have found is that if I wait at least several days, the second wearing is often much more revealing. Of course, if it’s an iso e super overload nightmare, I’m not going to subject myself to that again. But if I think there is any chance I might like a scent, I’ll give it that second wearing. Keep up the good work!
Didn’t notice that you said you wore it more than once (was in a hurry when I read it). I’m surprised it wasn’t at least a bit different on the second wearing, though. I’d be curious to try this one (at least two wearings, unless the iso e super is really strong), since I have Turquoise (which is not my type of scent so I can’t really criticize it) and Black Tourmaline, which I really like (though I can only wear it so often).
Bigsly, I like many from the Durbano line…the two you mention for sure. The faux wood IS strong in this one.
Aw man. Bummer. I often use the perfume stashed in my purse as a pick-me-up when I get stuck in traffic. When I read the opening of this review, I SO hoped the perfume would save the day. I’m sorry it didn’t. Lesson 3: Keep perfume removal kit and “happy maker” perfume decant in the glove box?
Lizbee, ha! To get rid of Iso E Super you’d have to remove skin.
And keep an empty jar as an emergency toilet.
Even here up the side of a mountain, where there are no retailers, just middle class homes, the traffic was bad in 2000. Now it’s so bad, it’s difficult to even get out to the main road. Snowstorms make it impossible!
Celestia…I live on a hill and when it snows I’m stranded, too
I’m not sure I could write a sustained review in your situation.
Cobra: it was all in my mind…trying to stay “otherwise occupied!” HA!
What a mess the weather and roads were that day. I managed to get home from work in 25 min because I live only 2 miles from work. But streets that were usually clear were backed up as everyone tried to take the same alternative routes. I’m sorry your commute was so long! But you did have a good idea to occupy yourself with a perfume review even if the perfume was a dud. This is one line I’ve not really explored and probably should…but I’ll skip this one!
therabbitsflower: DO try others in the line, especially if you like incense perfumes. You were so lucky that night!