Matthew Zorpas of The Gentleman Blogger for Gianfranco Ferré L'Uomo.
Online fragrance shopping
New at saksfifthavenue: Alaia Blanche.
New at selfridges (UK): Lancome Les Parfums Grands Crus, McQueen Eau de Parfum.
Wednesday scent of the day 10/26
Happy Hump Day, and happy National Pumpkin Day! (And sorry I’m late, I quite overslept.) What fragrance are you wearing?
I’m on day three of Halloween treats, with Prada Candy.
Reminder: 10/28 will be Treat Friday…
Reclaim their beastly odors
“Animalic” is a buzzword floating around the industry, now that the minimalist, clean trend has given way (at least in high-fashion niche circles) to more feral fragrance clouds. Maybe it’s the desire of millennials to reclaim their beastly odors in an age of technological detachment, but fragrance buyers are newly excited to smell as if they come from an elegant zoo.
— Read more at We’re Animals, After All at the New York Times. Hat tip to Galbanumgal!
Zu-koh: incense powders for the body
Along with glorious statues, ritual objects and religious texts and scholarship, incense arrived in Japan with Buddhism in the sixth century. Incense experienced in temples during Buddhist ceremonies must have inspired Japanese (who could afford it) to burn incense in their homes, not only to commemorate ancestors, deities and important life (and death) events, but to show they were sophisticated. Houses were scented, clothes were hung in ways and places to absorb incense aromas, hair was perfumed. Over the centuries lighthearted ways to enjoy incense were developed: the incense ceremony (kodo) and incense games (one of the most famous, Genji-ko, was associated with the eleventh-century novel The Tale of Genji).
Japanese incense blends changed over time, from complex mixes of ingredients formed into a variety of shapes to “purer” enjoyment of prized, rare, exorbitantly priced wood chips. Raw materials used for incense included shells, figwort, clove, benzoin, cinnamon, star anise, machilus (a member of the laurel family). The royalty of incense ingredients (enjoyed singly, too) were sandalwood and varieties of Aquilaria…