The press release accompanying my lab sample of Norell New York says that “the heritage of the campaign” is “Fusing Then and Now.” To a lover of vintage fragrances, these are dangerous words. I wonder, what’s wrong with leaving the “then” alone — why not simply offer the classic Norell made with good materials and balanced by a skilled nose? By “now,” do they mean “market-driven” (aka “pandering”)? Deepening my skepticism, the press release says “Norell New York makes you feel like ‘Each Time is the First Time’.” I groan in dread.
I’m happy to report that Norell New York does not pander to fragrance trends, and although I wouldn't call it a dupe, it respects the original's bones and character. Whether it's for you is a different question.
Perfumer Céline Barel developed Norell New York. Its notes include galbanum, bergamot, pear, mandarin, jasmine petals, peony, orchid, gardenia, orris butter, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla and musk.
Like the original Norell, Norell New York is a green floral of the old-fashioned variety, with a nose-tingling cloud of aldehydes and a composition that never dips below second soprano. Threading the fragrance’s initial puff is a touch of juicy orange and pear with a lovely, tart jolt of green. Pear-phobes beware: the pear is definitely present, although nowhere as insistent as in, say, Bill Blass Nude.
These bare touches of fruit are bolstered right away by hazy gardenia and, to a lesser extent, iris. The gardenia isn’t the lush island-type of gardenia, but is rather a sheer, grayed-out gardenia. An insistent foundation of something with a moss effect — but not the marvelous mossy texture — underlies Norell New York’s floral heart. This moss-like, musky note drains some of the prettiness from the fragrance and replaces it with a post-lunch cigarette sort of vibe.
As Norell New York wears, no definite wood, vetiver, or sweetness jumps out to take over as it does in so many fragrances. Instead, it remains pseudo-mossy and floral with robust sillage and astonishing longevity for a floral perfume.
To me, Norell New York smells conservative and not particularly youthful. It would do well at Daughters of the American Revolution luncheons, or on the mother of the bride at a society wedding. As far as "Each Time is the First Time" goes, this is no virginal fragrance — it's built for matrons of a sort that may not exist anymore. On the other hand, it could be wildly chic on a Halston-loving woman who rocks the glossy-lips-and-pant-suit-with-heels look. In short, Norell New York’s feel respects the original’s intent. It may not be “me,” but I like that it exists.
As of this writing, Norell New York is only available at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. A limited edition Extrait is $1,500 for 50 ml in a handcrafted Baccarat bottle (limited edition of 500 bottles); Eau de Parfum is $150 for 100 ml with a 24-karat gold-plated collar; body cream is $95 for 189 grams; and body oil is $80 for 140 ml.
Great review, Angela! But as a lover of the original waaaay back in the day, I’m taking a pass on this. I don’t know if it was your intent, but you seemed to damn this with faint praise. 😉
I guess it wasn’t really to my taste, but I do think some people will love it!
I’m glad it’s not awful. I’d like to smell this to wrap my mind and nose around a post lunch cigarette vibe, lol. Very intriguing. Is this a 2 martini kind of drink for business ladies who lunch with the men?
My guess is that the lady had a wine spritzer with her fish and asparagus before smoking her extra skinny cigarette…
LOL 😉
Very glad to have my classic 1/4-oz stoppered bottle, on which the black painted lettering is graying with age. As Bear and I discussed in the weekend poll, that’s a good thing. 😉
I regret overlooking original Norell creator Josephine Catapano when I was mulling last weekend’s desert island perfumer poll. She’s certainly a contender with not only Norell, but also Youth Dew, Estee Lauder J.H.L. (created for Ms. Lauder’s husband), Shiseido Zen and Guy Laroche Fidji.
Shisheido Zen! A wonderful fragrance….I wonder if it is still around….guess I will go look!
They’ve revised both the fragrance and the packaging multiple times, I believe. Sometimes the old bottles show up on ebay, but beware the cologne in what looks like the old black and gold design. It’s nasty, at least to my nose.
I see Zen “classic” listed at Macys and Nordstrom… I got a bottle in the early summer, and I really enjoy it. I only lasts for about 2 hours, but it is nice and oakmossy.
I know what you mean about Catapano! She does seem to be overlooked, but she created some real classics.
A fragrance I would not even notice… thanks for piquing my curiosity if nothing else…
This is probably TMI, but I find the copy “Each Time is the First Time” rather more threatening than a perk. “First times” for many things are not high on my nostalgia meter….
I wasn’t bowled over by that motto, either. Besides, the fragrance is not naive–it’s pretty sophisticated, not a “first time” sort of perfume.
I’m actually more interested in it now than I was before reading your review, Angela, so thanks for that. I didn’t love old Norell (there’s enough orange blossom in it that it goes all Dove-soapy on me) but I admired it, and I’m glad to hear the new one hasn’t been completely dumbed-down.
I definitely didn’t find this one soapy. I’d love to know what you think of it if you do get the chance to try it.
Well, dang it! I wish they had just offered us the old classic, too! I adored the Norell of the 70s, and am not sure I want to smell this new one even if it isn’t terrible.
Since you’re familiar with the original Norell, in its unblemished form, I’d love to know what you think of this one! I’ve only smelled later Norell, and it failed to bowl me over, although there were tantalizing hints there of what it might have been.
I tried this at BG and it was a scrubber for me ????
Too bad! But at least you don’t have to shell out $1500 for the extrait…
Being “vintage” myself, I’m glad it exists, too. Sounds right for the wife of the man who wears the new Acqua di Parma in the green bottle (can’t remember the name). If my folks were still around, I might buy them bottles of each.
I think you grasped it completely!