Most fougère fragrances are overtly manly and smell old fashioned to contemporary "noses." When I smell a classic fougère, I think of a well-off/well-fed, outdoorsy, conservatively dressed and groomed man of a certain age, who, when not traipsing through wet woods hunting or hiking, holds court in a plaid-rich den (in a log cabin if resources allow) with one hand clutching a whiskey and the other resting on the forehead of a happy Labrador retriever. Let's call this guy Traditional. The only fougère perfume I truly loved is extinct: Houbigant Fougère Royale (I don't much care for the reissue) — it conjured the outdoors, but was dry and buoyant, not soggy.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian just released a new fougère fragrance, Pluriel Masculin: a man can be "one and many things at the same time" sayeth Kurkdjian. I guess the same can be said for women (see Pluriel Féminin), pets — and even robots: efficient, but cold...helpful, yet infuriating (think: your computer). Philosophy aside (and there are plenty of arty references to the creation of the two Pluriel perfumes in its marketing push), a fragrance is a commodity in a container and thrives or dies by its aroma. Can the only man in well-publicized perfume circles who unbuttons his shirt as far down as Tom Ford make me love a fougère again?
Pluriel Masculin goes on smelling like a straightforward fougère, but a watercolor version...not dense, too structured, or chest-thumping. There's lavender mixing with leather, a splatter or two of rinsed-clean patchouli. In mid-development, there is a note or mix of notes that produces a "watery" aroma that, perhaps, tries to convey the "damp forest" aspect of a fougère. I've noticed this note/accord in other contemporary fougère fragrances (is it violet leaf? an ozonic note?), and I simply can't abide it; to my nose, the aroma cheapens the perfume. But this "fresh" note fades, and Pluriel Masculin dries down to smooth vetiver and sweet woods, with hints of residual patchouli and leather. Pleasant, nice...but not for me. Why do fougère fragrances make me feel...despondent? (Is there a Perfume Doctor in the house?)
I'll be curious to see if Pluriel Masculin can convert younger men to this "staid" genre of masculine perfumery. With vintage everything the rage, why not?
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Pluriel Masculin has great lasting power and sillage, and is available in 70 ml Eau de Toilette ($185). For buying information, see the listing for Maison Francis Kurkdjian under Perfume Houses.
Note: Top image [altered] via Wikimedia Commons.
Kevin, does lavender depress you or only Fougeres? I am convinced that Lavender is a very, very mild seditive (a hot bath with lavender buds or lavender bubble bath will put me to sleep faster than a turkey dinner). Maybe lavender is a depressant to you.
Or maybe Fougeres depress you because they represent to you some stereo type of masculinity which you find depressing. (Personally I’d love to Mr. Traditional’s dog, but just imagining a room with all that plaid depresses me).
A Houbigant representative once told me the original inspiration for the first Fougere was a group of ferns bathed in a slender ray of light which broke through the shade of a forrest. The citrus on top represents the light; the lavender represents the ferns and forest floor (Actual ferns don’t have a scent). Maybe I love Fougeres because this reminds me of growing up where large ferns were planted under trees and ‘fiddle ferns” were a rare spring treat.
Maybe K- you’d find fougere’s less depressing if you thought of the light rather than the dark forrest.
Dilana: what I liked about vintage Fougere Royale was a dry “hay-like” note that made me so happy ( that ray of light I guess?) I’m sure fougeres depress me due to some association…I remember being FORCED to attend church services sometimes and it seemed the church reeked of fougeres and bay rum aromas on those Sunday mornings! HA!
You must have had a lot of “Mr. Traditionals” in your congregation.
Amen!
Not many younger men I know would be willing to pay $185 to be ‘converted’ to the genre. But my son does like DS & Durga’s Burning Barbershop. Have you tried that? It’s a very weird take on the genre.
jirish: I’ll have to look but I THINK I reviewed Burning Barbershop? So many fragrances, so little memory remaining!
Oops! So many fragrance reviews, so little memory!
Fougère fragrances are not my favorites. To me, Fougère frags are the loud, in-your-face, know-it-all, always right, gym goon, brother-in-law. They are just too much.
Fou d’Absinthe and Rive Gauche are the only Fougères I can live with… from time to time.
platinum: funny how we create the perfect characters for scents we don’t (and do) appreciate. I can definitely see “brother in law” in association with fougeres.
Have you or anyone smelled the new version of Rive Gauche? I’m curious as to why it’s so expensive besides the boring bottle they put all the old male YSL scents in.
Chandler: nope…have not smelled the re-do. If I’m remembering correctly, the original version was a “cool” fougere…not warm and enveloping. I liked that better than most.
I actually did. I’d say that in the new version of Rive Gauche geranium is more prominent; a sort of fresh geranium-rose type of opening. Overall the new RG is less “rounded” than the previous verision, probably less creamy, and less lavender heavy, although lavender is still very present. Plus, the new version does not have the star anise-y opening that I remember in the old RG. Hope that helps 🙂
Lupo, yes…thanks. I like the sound of the rose geranium.
Really? 🙂 For some reason, Pluriel really reminded me of Sartorial. I can’t put my finger on it, but there’s something sort of waxy in Pluriel. Or maybe it is because to me Pluriel calls for an impeccably tailored suit. In my opinion, if there’s anything this perfume is not – that is “casual”!
“Pleasant, nice….Why do fougère fragrances make me feel…despondent? (Is there a Perfume Doctor in the house?)”
I have a sudden urge to hose myself down with something joyous! No doubt, Dr. Feelgood is lurking in my perfume closet. 🙂
That’s what I should do too…Chaldee or Eau de Rochas…here I come.
I agree with someone up there who said it might be depressing because it’s a stereotype of a masculine frag. I think that’s interesting. Because I do associate that smell with men of a clueless era (i.e. most of history) that would rather blow their brains out than admit to having a feminine side. Whereas the dandies and fops (i.e. metrosexuals) of yore had no problem cozying up to violets and discreet florals. I really like masculine scents that have a soft, languid, yes feminine note.
The artwork is perfect for this review.
I sampled Masculin Pluriel recently, and my impression was: Caron pour un Homme meets Terre d’Hermes and they go and have tea with Sartorial 🙂 There’s the initial splash of lavender, sort of sweetened, and on my skin vetiver comes into play almost immediately. Overall, there’s a Sartorial Penhaligon’s feel to Masculin Pluriel: they do not smell alike, but they have this sort of muted honeyed fougere feel to them.
Bottom line, I really liked it: it’s very much the Kurkdjian version of fougere with a bit of a retro-hipster vibe. What’s not to like? 🙂
Lupo: I really like (and own two of) your tea party guests…but they don’t remind me of Pluriel…alas! HA!
Hi Kevin, late to comment as usual, but your piece provoked me a bit.
First, I need to sample MP just to understand your despondency.
Second, I’m not that guy, no dog, no gun, no plaid, no land Rover, no elbow patches, no mistress. Talk about despondency.
But c’mon. A good fougere gives a lift which can be needed at times. I’m wearing Azzarro Pour Homme this morning and it’s doing the job. The opposite of despondency.
Donnie! One man’s despondency is another man’s exhilaration! I need to revisit the Azzarro…it’s been a long time since I’ve smelled that one.
The only lavender i wear is the marvellous ANTIHERO by etat libre d’orange…I adore its sweetness..but I’m curious about this one
Jaisalmer: I love lavender, either the floral or herbal aspect, but that doesn’t dominate Pluriel. Don’t think, amazingly, I’ve sniffed the Etat Libre d’Orange Antihéros!