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Today we're helping Sabine, who wants to find a new autumn/winter fragrance. Her perfect perfume will be warm, cozy and sexy, but also classy, and preferably with an unexpected twist. She can spend up to €100 (about $135). Here is what we know about Sabine:
She's in her early 40s and married; she has two wild boys (5 and 7).
She's an SA in the beauty business and has access to almost all mainstream fragarances. She lives in Berlin, and has good access to niche brands too.
She loves going to concerts (Baroque music mostly) and opera, and reading Balzac, Flaubert and Austen.
She adores Shakespeare movies, including the new Much Ado movie.
Sabine likes gourmand perfumes, but not too sweet (YES to Guerlain Shalimar Initial & Anglique Noire, L'Artisan Traversee du Bosphore; NO to Chopard Casmir, Prada Candy, Hermes Ambre de Merveilles, Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto). She also likes green and iris fragrances, but nothing too masculine (YES to Prada Iris Absolue, Guerlain Herba Fresca, Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend a Deauville). She is a Guerlain lover but does not wear many (she owns Idylle, Shalimar Initial and My Insolence), and is beginning to love L'Artisan Parfumeur. She is interested in the Frederic Malle line, but hasn't tried any.
Sabine dislikes anything too fruity-girly-trashy, and she doesn't care for oud. She generally doesn't like anything by Escada, Calvin Klein or Yves Saint Laurent.
Here are the perfumes Sabine has tried so far:
L'Artisan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument: too creamy and sweet, and the rum turns her off.
Guerlain Insolence: too purple-candy-ish.
Parfums de Nicolaï Maharani: it didn't say anything to her.
What say you?
Note: top image is Bologna - no bill posting [cropped] by on1stsite. at flickr; some rights reserved.
How about Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat de Libre d’Orange?
Oh, I second the Tilda Swinton. I have very similar scent interests and Tilda is 1 of my favs.
My first thoughts for cozy, not-too-sweet gourmands are L’Artisan Dzing, Ormonde Jayne Champaca, and Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau…with the caveat that mileage does seem to vary on how sweet these read (e.g. I find Jeux de Peau more salty than sweet, but I seem to be in the minority.) Oh or maybe Daim Blond?
How about Sacrebleu by Parfums de Nicolaï? It’s cosy, warm, and feels like L’Heure Bleue with contentment instead of nostalgia.
Seconding Dzing (although if that reads too sweet, I would counter with Cuirelle by Ramon Monegal–spicy, incensy Italian leather, OMG!).
I also find Cocoa Sandalwood by Sonoma Scent Studio (Laurie Erickson actually makes a lot of not-too-sweet gourmand scents, such as Tabac Aurea, Winter Woods, and Fig Tree) to be a warm and fuzzy scent. Tom Ford Gray Vetiver is cozy as cashmere and, for me at least, not too masculine.
Lavanila Vanilla Passionfruit is a favorite among my non-niche perfumes–a fresh, fruity gourmand without being overly syrupy or synthetic. Definitely a comfort scent!
Lurve Cocoa-Sandalwood (wore it this weekend!), and would also add Champagne de Bois from SSS.
I’ve recenly tried and fallen in love with Nasomatto Narcotic Venus – OMG what a perfume!! At first you think its a bit cheap – like a hooker on a street corner but then it mellows and levels and is THE most beautiful FEMININE long long lasting fragrance on this earth. Not Cheap tho! About Sabine’s maximum for 30ml but my God its worth it!!
Iris:
Frederic Malle Iris Poudre
Diptique Volutes EDP or EDT
Gourmand:
Diptyque Eau Duelle
Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille
Other:
Mona di Orio Les Nombres d’Or Violette Fumee
Some of the above are over budget for a FB.
Seconding Double Vanille.
What about musky scents – there’s a long list for those, but I was thinking Musc nomade (A. Goutal) in particular (felanilla might be too sweet, as are all parfumerie general scents, which would otherwise fit your brief). Alternative: what about vetiver tonka (Hermessance)? – the little travel vials are affordable.
Regilisse Noir and Fils de Dieu du Riz et des Agrumes are my suggestions
I agree with Bee (hey, that rhymed!) about Parfumerie General scents sometimes being a little sweet, but if you like Traversee and Candy, I am sure you would enjoy PG’s No 15 Ilang Ivohibe. Yes, it’s a vanilla, but not tooth-rotting, and it is balanced by a lovely lime zest and hypnotic tiare flowers.
Hermessence Ambre Narguile is a beautiful sheerish incense with a gourmand feel – elegant and not too sweet. Sublime for winter. Also Parfum de Rosine’s Rose Praline, adds some mild holiday spice to floral. And if she likes Herba Fresca, she can go even mintier with Frederick Malle’s Geranium Pour Monsieur.
I will second Sacrebleu and Dzing!.
I am wondering if you’d like L’Artisan’s Tea for Two? It was discontinued recently, but I think there is still enough of it that it can be found for a reasonable price. Gorgeous smokey tea, with honey and ginger and cinnamon.
I don’t know if you’re open to trying a male-marketed fragrance, but I am a big fan of Eau des Baux by L’Occitance en Provence. It is spiced with cardamom and has vanilla and tonka bean, and some incense. It is a great scent for autumn and winter, also not too pricey.
Tolu by Ormonde Jayne. It’s warm and cozy and sexy for sure, and is sheer enough to be modern and not to sweet. Also, Coromandel by Chanel, which is rich and warm and has an almost chocolately quality.
If you like gourmands but not so sweet ones, you might want to try the Serge Lutens line which has numerous wood/fruit or leather/fruit scents. I am fond of Daim Blond (Apricot and Fruit) but there are several variations of this concept. Bottega Venata’s scent is a lighter sparklier version of Daim Blond.
On the “different side” of gourmand, En Passant (Malle) has a cucumber lilac scent which also smells of bread dough; Pear and Olive (Slumberhouse, availability in Europe unknown) does indeed smell like olives and pears; Pour Cherie by Annick Goutal smells of pears but in a sophisticated elegant way.
For an Iris Gourmand, try “Les Carrottes,” which is an iris/carrot mixture, which seems odd, until you remember that carrots are roots, and the part of the iris which is scented is also a root.
For Iris and Vanilla, try Iris Nobile, the EDP has a buttery base.
Dries van Noten and Noir Epice by Frederic Malle. Second Coromandel.
Seconding the FM’s! Noir Epice is my autumn favourite. I’d try Lipstick Rose from that counter as well.
Another personal autumn favourite is Serge Lutens Santal Blanc with a bit of his trademark curry, lovely sandal wood and iris as one part of the florals.
Terry de Gunzberg Ombre Mercure is a gourmand iris with vanilla and, to my nose, cocoa.
Also adding Profumum Romas’ Fiori d’Ambra with amber, opium and spices, very yummy!
Good luck!
“Her perfect perfume will be warm, cozy and sexy, but also classy, and preferably with an unexpected twist.”
That comment made me think instantly of Solange Cosmic. Top notes are bergamot, aldehydes and galbanum, a heart of rose, jasmine absolute and iris absolute, and a dry-down of patchouli, vetiver, labdanum absolute, opoponax, myrrh and vanilla.
It’s gorgeous and those green notes give it an unexpected zing at the opening.
I’d also recommend Guerlain’s Iris Ganache, a gorgeous iris and white chocolate fragrance.
What about Cristally by Chanel? Weekend a Deauville always reminds me of the more daring, bigger sister Cristalle.
Another idea: Jil Sander Women III. Unfortunately, the original scent discontinued, then they relaunched Women III as part of Jil Sander THE ESSENTIALS line, recently. They say it’s the same formula, but I’d swear it’s not! Still nice, though.
Well, it isn’t the most adventurous recommendation,…but what about Chanel Coco? It’s warm, sexy, comforting, and sweet without being syrupy. It is my favorite holiday and winter scent. The only thing on your list it doesn’t have is an unexpected twist. I’ve only worn the eau de parfum, but maybe the parfum would offer a little more?
Eau d’Italie Paestum Rose: Davana, cinnamon, pink and rose pepper, coriander, blackcurrant buds, osmanthus, peony, Turkish rose, tea, elemi, incense, myrrh, opoponax, cedarwood, papyrus, patchouli, wenge, vetiver, musk, benzoin
Comme des Garçons Daphne: bitter orange, incense, saffron, rose centifolia, Tunisian jasmine, tuberose, iris, patchouli, oud, amber, vanilla
Parfumerie Generale Felanilla: vanilla absolute, saffron, orris, banana wood, hay absolute, amber
Safran Troublant by L’Artisan is a warm, spicy vanilla rose that is just sweet enough to be comforting. It doesn’t last very long, so frequent application will be necessary.
Love of books and baroque music made me think of Histoires de Parfums, which make lovely gourmands like 1804 (George Sand) and 1973 (Collette), but my personal fave is 1969.
Oops that should be 1873 (Collette)!
Dear Sabine,
green and iris? I recommend Chanel no. 19 as I always do… The EdT is my favourite. Perhaps you can lay your hands on one of the older versions with the REAL IRIS and more oakmoss. You might be lucky with the rechargeable sprays. Heure Exquise by Annick Goutal is also a great iris perfume. Bois d’Iris by Van Cleef&Arpels is nice too, but not nice enough if you need something green. Prada Infusion d’Iris Eau d’Iris – this year’s pink flanker with mint and laurel is even better than the original.
My favourite gourmand-but-not-sweet scent is Shalimar Ode a la Vanille by Guerlain. I own the first flanker sold in 2010, but I read that this years version (containing Mexican vanilla) is adorable, too. Having reached Guerlain territory, you should also sample Chamade, a great vintage green perfume that differs a lot from the other Guerlains.
(PS: You are lucky to live in Berlin! My German hometown is a lot smaller and there is a lot of perfumed stuff we can not lay our hands on…)
Hi,
and Thank you all for your recommendations.
In the next months I will hunt for new perfumes (remember: small kids…).
Here my first thoughts:
Chanel:
I had the old black Coco once and still like it, spray it once in a month.
When it is really hot I like to wear Cristalle (EdT only!) or Cristalle Eau verte.
nr. 19 is a very elegante but old-fashioned perfume for me, but I begin to like Nr. 19 Poudré.
Coromandel I will try. (The lipstick color i like a lot:-)) )
L ´Artisan:
Dzing I tried recently and did not like it.
Tea for two I will try (Lapsang I don´t like to drink, but we will see…)
Safran Troublant could be something. Sounds promising.
Guerlain:
Chamade is too chypre for me. Only the very last drydown is nice.
The Double Vanille sounds a bit loud for me, but I will try this.
Iris Ganache is on my list for a while- but was it discontinued or not?
Shalimar Ode Vanille is hard to get here. Maybe its too heavy, and I have a big bottle Shalimar Initial and want to use it up some day. On the other hand,its limited….sigh!
Others:
I am so not Tilda….but it sounds so interesting, I will search for this strange smell.
Sacrebleu I had 10 years ago and loved it. I didn´t smell it for a long time and think it is too loud for me now. But it is great!
Cuirelle sounds very interesting!
Cocoa Sandalwood, Tolu and Noir Epice are on the list.
Male perfumes:
I rarely wear male perfumes, but sometimes I do. Eau de Beaux I know but don´t like it for myself.
What I like on my skin is Cocorico- this woody-cocoa-thing works on me.
The rest I have to research first because I don´t have an idea about this.
Thank you, folks!
Sabine