A few weeks ago I wrote about my visit to the Italian Embassy in Paris for the launch of Memo Italian Leather. Now for the rest of the story.
In the embassy’s Grand Salon, the brand owner, Clara Molloy, and perfumer, Aliénor Massenet, sat on yellow silk upholstered armchairs near the marble fireplace, forming part of an intimate clutch of armchairs encircling a coffee table. The scent of coffee drifted from a table near one wall. We also smelled, of course, a trace of delicious perfume.
Molloy was open and cheerful, with Snow White pale skin and dark hair. I immediately wanted to be her friend. As I already wrote, she led us on a tour of that wing of the embassy (I'm still trying to figure out how I can incorporate the dreamy lagoon-like colors of the library into my own house) before settling again in the Grand Salon. With French beauty editors.
Yes, French beauty editors. My fingers tremble even typing those words. What could be more terrifying to a frizzy headed American in a secondhand dress and flaking mascara than a French beauty editor? Here’s the thing: they were really nice! On hearing I was from Now Smell This, one even rose from her chair to come tell me how useful she finds the site’s Noses and Perfume Houses listings. (Quick French beauty editor sketch: of a “certain age”; thin; unobtrusively made up; expensive but simple haircuts; slim-cut pants in basic colors; simple, spare jewelry; one spectacular Napoleon-style longish jacket with embossed brass buttons artfully tarnished.)
Malloy talked about her inspiration for Italian Leather, the second in Memo’s Cuir Nomade series (the first one was Irish Leather, and a floral leather is supposed to be next). She said she wanted something “fresh and gourmand.” She envisioned an Italian road trip with the wind in her hair and no agenda. Also, her husband proposed to her in Venice, adding an extra emotional punch to her memories of the Italy.
Massenet (looking much like a French beauty editor, but in autumnal colors in a more bohemian cut) said the fragrance’s three key notes are green tomato leaf, vanilla and leather. (Other notes include pink pepper, petitgrain, cassis, ciste, galbanum, clary sage, green tomato leaf, iris, vanilla absolute, sandalwood, tolu, opoponax, myrrh, benzoin, leather and musk.) The tomato leaf is an accord she constructed, and the sandalwood is from Australia but is the same species as Mysore sandalwood. In the Q&A in the press packet, Massenet calls Italian Leather “un cuir vegetal oriental.”
One of the editors (smiling, open — I’m telling you, these French beauty editors were darlings) asked Massenet if she included coffee as a note. Good question, I thought. Espresso is so important in Italy. No, Massenet said. She said coffee is too “vertical” a note, meaning that it would bleed all the way through the fragrance’s development, from its top through its dry down.
After wearing Italian Leather, I’d say if it has any vertical note, it’s vanilla. But it’s vanilla wrapped in glove leather and grounded in all the earthy tricks of a modern oriental perfume. I do smell a bright, herbal aroma right after spraying Italian Leather — must be the green tomato leaf accord — but it’s soon overcome by a velvety wash of vanilla, leather, sweet wood, motor oil (maybe leather plus myrrh?), and loam mixed with crushed dandelion stems. To me, Italian Leather’s “freshness” is far outweighed by its oriental body. The fragrance’s slight acid edge doesn’t really leaven Italian Leather, but gives its weight interest.
But that's all right. Italian Leather wears warm and cozy, like putting on a thick cashmere shawl that’s been stored in a leather valise with vanilla beans and a bundle of wormwood. If you like your perfume dainty and sheer, look elsewhere. On the other hand, if you're auditioning fragrances to stand up to woolen tights and double-knit sweaters, give Italian Leather a try. A few sprays will last you all day, and to me the fragrance is perfectly unisex.
We left the embassy with chocolate brown bags filled with press materials and a decant of Italian Leather. I can tell I’m going to use the decant up quickly, especially as winter comes on. I may not be a French beauty editor, but I sure smell good.
Memo Italian Leather is 160€ for 75 ml Eau de Parfum. To purchase it, see Memo under Perfume Houses.
I tend to have leather phobia but this one sounds rather enticing if not down right cozy.
Who knew French beauty editors could be charming?!
I just wish the fragrance were a little easier to buy (not that I need to be buying any perfume these days!). And yes, the French beauty editors were completely delightful, even with my gauche ways and appalling language skills.
I’ve really liked the few perfumes from Memo that I’ve come across, and I’ll definitely try this if I can find it.
I agree, the very idea of being in a roomful of French beauty editors sounds terrifying! So glad they were friendly—and that they liked NST. And now I’m really curious to know what the embassy’s library looks like.
Oh, the library was gorgeous. It was at the very end of the wing–the corner of the big, U-shaped mansion, and it was narrow and kind of dark, with french doors to the garden. The upholstery and curtains were green or blue silk, and the colors together, along with the wooden shelves and floor, felt relaxing and Venetian to me.
Oooh, next one’s a floral leather!
I’m curious about that one, too!
Well perish the thought that someone would arrive in buttons tarnished by neglect rather than art. Still, I’m glad the FBEs were nice. It takes a lot of time and money to look simple and subtle. I really enjoyed this post, even if I can never afford the perfume.
I have to go to an evening function later in the week at a male-only membership club in another city. Women allowed only by invitation. Ack. I’ll be in slim emerald green pants (glad to hear I’m on trend there), a black jersey top (is black still okay I wonder?), flat silver chain necklace, meduim heels (Christian Dior declared that really high heels are vulgar), no jacket as the weather will be warm-ish. Perfume – VC&A’s First, possibly. Can’t go wrong with that.
It’s hard deciding what to wear for a formal occasion when you are travelling and are uncertain about the weather. You can’t make your mind up what to wear on the day!
You sound suitably chic to me! I know what you mean about being unsure of weather. Temperatures indoors can vary, too. I wonder if a men’s club would set the airconditioning lower than usual?
Wow, that is EXPENSIVE. And, note to noses: I’d love a coffee vertical note in something else. Please create.
Remember the old By by Dolce Gabbana? That one had a lovely coffee note. L’Artisan Navigateur did, too, but I think it’s discontinued. I’m with you, though–bring on a nice coffee fragrance!
Have enjoyed every one of your Paris posts very much. Really fun. They should have been glad to see you-look how far you traveled!-and they were. And they probably went out to crawl some vintage dress shops that evening.
You are very kind! Thank you.
I had a sample of Memo Manoa, which I found interesting. I’ve been curious about the rest of the line. Hmmm…just noticing that Memo has two sample coffrets on its French website – wondering if they ship to the US.
I’ve never tried any of the other Memos. I should look in my sample box to see if I have anything stashed away, but I don’t think so.
The Memo website says “coming soon” for a New York retailer, but we’ll see!