Perfume years are like dog years; time accumulates quickly — the period from birth to old age is brief. I loved my dogs and still think about every one of them, even dogs from my childhood. Being strict with myself when it comes to language, I can’t say I ‘love’ any perfume, past or present; when a perfume passes away (or gets reformulated beyond recognition), I don’t make a big deal about it. Best to think of reformulations as reincarnations; everything changes.
Giorgio Armani Eau Pour Homme is on the verge of turning thirty; truly, that’s got to be at least 60 years old in perfume years (with the changes in taste, and the thousands of perfumes that have come into being since 1984). Eau Pour Homme, being a child of privilege (his father is Giorgio Armani), just got a facelift in his dotage (a newish bottle) and (no matter what Armani PR says) a tweaking of his juice.
Though Armani swears the “new” Eau Pour Homme is identical to the perfume that was issued in 1984,1 some easy sleuthing shows that the ingredients have changed (I know, never trust lists of fragrance notes)! Even if you ignore ingredients lists and their veracity, we can all agree many perfume materials that were used in 1984 are no longer available to perfumers, for one reason or another. I let my nose, memory, a vintage bottle of Eau Pour Homme and a brand-new Eau Pour Homme sample guide me in my comparison of old and 'new' Eau Pour Homme.2
Eau Pour Homme was already seven years old when I first wore it; the fragrance fit in perfectly, style-wise, with my life in Los Angeles — it was casual, citrusy and “sunny,” a fragrance in a good mood. I enjoyed wearing it. Though I’ve only owned one bottle of Eau Pour Homme, I have sniffed it every time I’ve noticed it on a perfume counter…just to check up on my old acquaintance.
Eau Pour Homme starts off with rich mossy citrus (the most striking difference between old and new Eau Pour Homme is this moss; it’s lighter and more sparkling in the opening of “refreshed” Eau Pour Homme). As the perfume develops, a beautiful dusting of warm nutmeg becomes apparent, and brings with it a frosted, almost brittle, white floral note; the sheerest bit of sweet coriander mixes with everything. As you are anticipating its next phase, Eau Pour Homme seems to evaporate. Was that IT?
Don’t worry, Eau Pour Homme is just gearing up for a comeback. After the intermission, Eau Pour Homme returns a bit “talcy” (the citrus and floral notes are softer, warmer), and a watery, distant accord of wood, sweet musk and resin can be detected (this perfume has good diffusion; strangely, you can smell it better from a distance than if you jam your nose to skin). As I “analyzed” Eau Pour Homme, I realized no one note or accord is “astonishing” or unusual, but somehow, the perfume (dare I say it?) captivates me. The whole of Eau Pour Homme surpasses its parts.
I read other perfume blogs and message boards to see what people are saying about old and new Eau Pour Homme. Many guys think the perfume has atrocious lasting power; both versions lasted on me (the man who applies 10 sprays) for six hours at least. Some commenters wrote that Eau Pour Homme was ruined long before this latest reissue/repackaging. I don’t notice any startling differences between the perfume I remember, the vintage bottle I tested, and what’s being sold now; today’s version is simply more sprightly, but it has the same basic character/structure as “old” Eau Pour Homme. Overall, I’m happy with “rejuvenated” Eau Pour Homme and might even buy a bottle. If you’ve never tried Eau Pour Homme…do! It’s one of Armani’s best perfumes, for men OR women. And if you think my assessments of either version of Eau Pour Homme are nutso…let me know; remember, I don’t LOVE any perfume, so I won’t get upset!
Giorgio Armani Eau Pour Homme Eau de Toilette is available in 50 ml ($66) and 100 ml ($84).
1. Perfumer Roger Pellegrino.
2. The current list of notes includes bergamot, coriander, cedar, bitter orange, tangerine, nutmeg, cumin, neroli and patchouli.
Note: middle images are at left, the original Giorgio Armani Eau Pour Homme bottle, and at right, the new restyled bottle.
I have gone through several bottles of the ‘original’, but the last one I purchased was definitely ‘off’. It had a weird chemical vibe, and didn’t seem to last nearly as long as it used to. An Armani SA gave me a new tester last year, and that one was much better than the previous version. Even so, it still seems a bit less mossy than what I remember from its heyday, but still lovely. It is one of those casual fragrances I don’t have to think about when applying it, it seems to suit no matter the occasion, season, or the mood.
Relleric: agree…a diminishment of the moss…but otherwise still smells great.
I’m intrigued by your review and will try this when I get a chance.
What’s WITH perfumes that smell stronger at a bit of a distance than up close? How is that possible? This is now the question I would most like to ask LT.
Noz: that IS a strange phenomenon…but it’s happened to me with several perfumes.
I find this to be true w/ certain molecules, like ambrox — they seem to come and go, and can be harder to smell up close.
Perhaps, as with violet, the nose fatigues at higher concentrations (not that I have any idea what the physiological mechanism for this “fatigue” would be).
Yes, I get this same effect with fragrances heavy on Iso E Super. I spray Cartier Declaration and smell it in all its glory, then within 5 minutes I can’t smell a thing. Half an hour later, it’s back. Rinse and repeat.
Is that the an old or currrent ad at the very top? I love it, but definitely going to try this this weekend at Neimans, not fan of recent Armani colognes beside Armani Code though.
Chandler: that’s the original ad from the 80s.
first time commentor, long time lurker, love your blog!
C: thank you! and welcome….
Have never smelled this one; it sounds wonderful. (I’m always looking for new things for the hubs to try.)
And I must say, that’s a beautiful model in the ad. Just gorgeous.
Mals: strange to think he’s around 50 yrs old now!
Wait…isn’t that Giorgio Armani as a young man? i think so….
I was wondering the same thing! However, the youngest photo that comes up in an image search (1981, which would be his late 40s) doesn’t seem to match. Armani has a narrower nose with a distinctive shape. I don’t think it would ever have looked like this.
I used to have a mini of this in the 90s early 90s… then I used it again briefly by the late 90s but the moss on that particular bottle was too much for me. It was one of those swamp gas mosses. Reacted with my skin chemistry and I smelled like citrus sun heated swamp LOL.
Great review, I will look forward trying this. (Specially since you say the moss is less prominent)
kaos: I think the “new” moss will be more to your liking
Kevin, dont be ashamed to admit you LOVE the new Eau de Pizza Hut.
I still think Acqua di Gio PH is the best, but this comes in a close second.
Rictor: I admit I’d have a hard time admitting that! HA!
Hi Kevin,
I use to use this fragrance a lot, but discontinued using it when I bought a bottle a few years ago that was very weak. It seemed to disappear within an hour or two.
What I’ve heard is this latest 2013 reissue is much closer to the original than the one that came out around 2008.
Based on your “glowing” review, I’m going to pick up a bottle of this, as I absolutely love the fragrance. Oddly, I cannot find it anywhere in my area, so I’ll have to purchase on-line.
I enjoy your clog very much.