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The Monday Mail ~ help Mo find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 11 February 2013 50 Comments

Pink letter slot

Today we're helping Mo, who has been wearing vanilla musks for years and would like to find a new perfume with more "color", if that makes sense. Her ideal perfume will be fruity or berried, but in a warm and jammy way, like the filling of a pie that just came out of the oven rather than bright and sunny and fresh. It should be grounded by deeper, darker notes that give it depth. She can spend up to $150. Here is what we know about Mo:

She's in her mid 20s, and is partnered but not married.

Mo is an artist by day, activist by night.

Her friends describe her as eccentric and passionate. 

She dresses in blacks and greys most of the time to counterbalance her retina-searing red hair, bright accessories and nails.

Mo likes any and all berries, black currant, plum, peach, grapefruit, amber, sandalwood, incense, musk, vanilla, spicy notes, lilac and violet. Favorite perfumes include Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison, Comptoir Sud Pacifique Vanille Abricot, Floris China Rose and Paco Rabanne Ultrared.

Mo doesn't like sharp herbal notes or lavender; or too much apple or watermelon. 

Mo has tried one fragrance so far in her search: Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious Night. It is closer to what what she wants than many other fresh and candy-ish fruity scents, but still lacks the vibe she's going for, and is a bit too apple-centric.

What say you?

Note: top image is pink post [cropped] by jenny downing at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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50 Comments

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  1. friede says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:04 pm

    Enchanted Forest jumps to mind — a rich blackcurrant (and a gorgeous bottle FWIW)

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  2. C.H. says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:16 pm

    Trish McEvoy’s Blackberry & Vanilla Musk comes immediately to mind as something worth trying, given parameters!

    Less precisely on the nose with the berries & vanilla musk, but Jo Malone’s Blackberry & Bay fits the bill for berries grounded with deeper notes (woods).

    Perhaps Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir also, for dark fruit (although it may in fact not be fruity enough).

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    • maggiecat says:
      11 February 2013 at 2:48 pm

      My first thought was the Trich McEvoy Blackberry and Musk scent. I liked it a lot and I’m not a real fan of berries in perfume! Nordstrom’s carries the line, and I’m sure other stores do as well.

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    • Mo says:
      11 February 2013 at 11:36 pm

      Thanks so much to all who suggested fragrances for me! It was a busy day or I would have been in the comments chatting with everyone; I’m only seeing this just now, sadly.

      A couple have been on my to-try list and you all have cemented my desire to seek those out. I’m gonna see if I can get my paws on some samples and I have no doubt that one of these – potentially MORE than one – will be exactly what I’m looking for. In looking these up I almost found myself salivating a few times (LOL) … thanks again, I am so excited to try all these.

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  3. austenfan says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:22 pm

    We don’t seem to share many of the same likes so take my rec with a pinch of salt! A sophisticated berry fragrance I do enjoy is Quel Amour by Goutal.

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  4. Wino says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:23 pm

    How about Bois de Paradis by Parfums Delrae? Ripe, pulpy blackberries and figs with incense, spice and woods. Beautiful!

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    • Lys says:
      11 February 2013 at 1:27 pm

      LOL by the time I posted you had beat me to it! Bois de Paradis sounds perfect, doesn’t it.

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      • Wino says:
        11 February 2013 at 1:34 pm

        It does sound perfect! And now I think I know what my SOTD will be tomorrow! 🙂

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  5. Lys says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:25 pm

    First pick would be DelRae Bois de Paradis is rich fruits and berries on a warm sandalwood base.

    Also, maybe Lolita Lempicka Eau de Minuit/Midnight (all of the different editions of which are the same scent except for Minuit Noir): cherry iris myrrh benzoin vanilla. Might not be jammy enough to fit the bill but the fruits-n-iris combo is like a darker, incense-laced Delicious Night sans Delicious Night’s “thin white floral” after-effect.

    A lot of the Lutens have rich fruit accords and would be worth sampling.

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  6. lucasai says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:27 pm

    Perfume that come to my mind are:

    L’Artisan Safran Troublant
    Histoires de Parfums Edition Rare Vici
    Neela Vermeire Bombay Bling!
    Parfum d’Empire Osmanthus Interdite

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  7. ChocolatEyes613 says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:27 pm

    Perfumes Mo should try:

    Estee Lauder Sensuous Noir
    Kenzo Amour
    Tom Ford Black Orchid
    Hanae Mori Magical Moon
    Thierry Mugler Angel
    Chanel Coromandel
    Lolita Lempicka
    Bvlgari Omnia

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  8. Annikky says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:27 pm

    I might be getting your mood wrong, but have you considered/tried Daim Blond or Bois et Fruits by Lutens? Or even Feminite du Bois or Bois de Violette? I find that several scents in the line have this syrupy fruitiness, and as you mention violet as well… Mary Greenwell Plum might also be worth trying.

    My own recent fruity favourite is Bombay Bling, but it’s definitely bright. And I like Blackberry & Bay, already suggested by C.H. But I am afraid it may not be jammy enough.

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    • C.H. says:
      11 February 2013 at 4:58 pm

      Yes, very much agreed! Great Serge ideas and def cosign forewarning that Blackberry & Bay isn’t jammy, per se. Suspect it may go over better if one knows that before testing.

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  9. farouche says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:28 pm

    Eau Suave by Parfum d’Empire is a fruity chypre with top notes of coriander, saffron, and rose.
    Ume by Keiko Mecheri has notes of plum, jasmine, Chinese osmanthus, woods, patchouli, and moss.
    Both of these fragrances are in your price range.

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    • AnnE says:
      11 February 2013 at 7:24 pm

      2nd both of these!

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  10. catsngunsnyarn says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:34 pm

    Lolita Lempicka
    Kenzo Amour
    Anne Pliska
    Might not be deep and dark but still thought I’d mention: Dolce&Gabbana pour femme 2012

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  11. songeuse says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:38 pm

    I’ve never smelled it myself, but I wonder if L’Artisan’s Mûre et Musc might appeal to you.

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    • C.H. says:
      11 February 2013 at 4:57 pm

      I am curious about this too; I get some apple juice from this but I don’t think that’s the case for everyone, so it def seems worth trying…

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  12. Satsuma says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:43 pm

    Misouko by Guerlain, or Sacrebleu by Nicolai. Both fruity in their top notes (and even well into their heart), and suited to a strong personality.

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    • Rappleyea says:
      11 February 2013 at 2:27 pm

      Seconding both!

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  13. Absolute Scentualist says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:46 pm

    Mo, I think you and I are scent twins! Perfumes that immediately came to mind:

    Calvin Klein Euphoria edp
    Angel edt
    Kenzo Amour Indian Holi
    Guerlain Insolence edp or edt
    Seconding Mary Greenwell Plum
    CSP Mora Bella
    Chanel Coromandel
    iPdF Violetta di Bosco
    Badgley Mischka original
    Lolita Lempicka L’eau en Blanc
    L’Artisan Mure et Musc and MeM Extreme
    Hanae Mori Couture Collection No. 1
    Hanae Mori Red Butterfly
    Parfums MDCI Peche Cardinale
    Parfums de Nicolai Balkis (if it’s still available)
    Annick Goutal Eau de Charlotte edp
    Gabrielle Strehle Strenesse
    Trish McEvoy Blackberry Vanilla Musk
    Cacharel Promesse
    Ligniappe Oaks/Bourbon French Mon Amour in extrait
    Many by Serge Lutens
    Ramon Monegal Cherry Musk

    Happy sniffing and enjoy the hunt! There’s lots of great suggestions so far.

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  14. chrisskins says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:49 pm

    Philosophy Falling in Love.

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  15. breathesgelatin says:
    11 February 2013 at 1:51 pm

    Tauer Une Rose Vermeille
    Cartier So Pretty (discontinued, but totally worth it if you can find it)
    By Kilian Liaisons Dangeureuses (maybe muskier than you were hoping for though)
    Ineke Briar Rose
    Nez a Nez Amber a Sade (don’t let the name scare you, it’s a berry fragrance and a lovely one at that, possibly my fave!)
    Perfumer Pharmer Strawberry Passion (there are two scents in this line, you can get samples on Etsy)

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  16. sweetgrass says:
    11 February 2013 at 2:11 pm

    I’m going to throw in Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre d’Orange (also just called Eau de Protection on the ELdO website). It’s not a fruity scent per se, but I find the rose note to have a distinct raspberry feel, and the base is cacao, patchouli and incense.

    You also might consider Serge Lutens Boxeuses. It’s kind of in the same vein as Feminite du Bois, with the stewed fruits and violet, but with a smoky leather base instead of wood.

    Also, Evening Edged in Gold or Gilded Lily by Ineke might be worth a try too.

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  17. Rappleyea says:
    11 February 2013 at 2:29 pm

    Ack! This is way out of my comfort zone. The only suggestion I can offer is Guerlain’s Chamade with it’s black current note backed by the Guerlainade.

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  18. Omega says:
    11 February 2013 at 2:37 pm

    Briar Rose, Ineke.. berries and currant
    Blackberry and Bay Jo Malone..woody currant
    Ellen Tracy Bronze for violet.

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  19. mals86 says:
    11 February 2013 at 2:54 pm

    Some really nice suggestions here! I’ll second some of them.

    Hanae Mori, preferably in parfum (red butterfly) if you can find it – I know I saw a 1 oz bottle on ebay for about $45 not too long ago, because I almost bought it for my daughter. Beautiful rich jammy berry notes, plus vanilla and woods.

    Tauer Une Rose Vermeille is another gorgeous berry scent, very deep and rich. Yes, it has rose, but also a juicy orange note and everything backed by a salty ambery woody drydown.

    (I adore Mary Greenwell Plum, but to me it’s primarily a white floral, bookended by unsugary fruit notes and a modern chypre base. Worth smelling, anyway.)

    Badgley Mischka is intensely fruity in a joyous, boozy sort of way.

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  20. jennykatzmusic says:
    11 February 2013 at 3:55 pm

    Aftelier’s Fig. It smells EXACTLY as you describe—like the bubbling juices of a delicious pie, reducing down to that thick, almost-smoky-but-not jammy richness. There’s actually no fig in it; it’s a combination of fir, pink grapefruit, jasmine, and Africa stone. Mo’s activist leanings will like the fact that it’s a natural perfume—yet still sophisticated and deep. I put it on yesterday when I came in from shoveling snow and it made me happy.

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    • C.H. says:
      11 February 2013 at 5:23 pm

      Fig’s such a good idea. I haven’t smelled the Aftelier but Premier Figuier strikes me as another good option… and might as well add Wild Fig and Cassis (Jo Malone) and Philosykos (Diptyque) to list, to get a range of different ways of doing fruit + deeper notes.

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  21. mough says:
    11 February 2013 at 4:01 pm

    I could be way off, but Memoir Woman is a huge, jammy spectacle. It’s pricey, but you could always get a decant. If you get the chance to sample it, do so. It’s gorgeous. And then I also agree with the Jo Malone Blackberry and Bay suggestions…Best of luck to you!

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  22. Emily says:
    11 February 2013 at 4:09 pm

    Ginestet Botrytis might be just the ticket. Deep, gently spiced, honeyed fruits, and a gorgeous bottle to boot. I’m pretty sure it’s under $150.

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    • sweetgrass says:
      12 February 2013 at 5:30 pm

      I’ll second that. And it is under $150. Last I looked on LuckyScent, I think it was around $110.

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  23. Safran says:
    11 February 2013 at 4:17 pm

    Guerlain’s La Petite Robe Noir – it’s fully ripe black cherries, warm, yummy, mouthwatering, but not a fruit bowl, rather very feminine!

    Good luck
    Safran

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  24. Nile Goddess says:
    11 February 2013 at 4:34 pm

    For a fun, playful and fruity young cassis, try Escada’s Sexy Graffiti.

    For a ligher, more natural berry, I second Mure et Musc from L’Artisan Parfumeur. Possibly the Extreme vafiant

    For the Grande Dame of all berries, it’s of course the original Poison by Dior

    And for a light and playful summer berry, Sublime Balkiss from The Different Company should do the trick.

    Enjoy!

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  25. sonyayu says:
    11 February 2013 at 4:37 pm

    Dunno if anyone’s suggested this already but how about Lalique Amethyst?

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  26. C.H. says:
    11 February 2013 at 5:01 pm

    You guys are making me want to try Briar Rose, bummer it’s not in Anthropologies anymore. (…is it?)

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    • Omega says:
      11 February 2013 at 5:46 pm

      It’s available on the Ineke site now.

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      • Omega says:
        11 February 2013 at 5:52 pm

        Oh and no, it’s not at Anthro anymore…but by popular demand I think, it’s on her main site.

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  27. sbe13 says:
    11 February 2013 at 5:10 pm

    I immediate thought of L’Artisan’s Mure et Musc when I read your profile. Also, Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille.

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  28. Liza says:
    11 February 2013 at 5:56 pm

    You might try Caron’s L’Accord Code 119 (see Jessica’s review here https://nstperfume.com/2012/06/22/caron-laccord-code-119-fragrance-review/) and seconding (or thirding) Mitsouko, already suggested above.

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  29. poodle says:
    11 February 2013 at 6:59 pm

    I think that Red Cattleyea by Olympic Orchids is worth a sniff. It’s a fruity floral with some spicy notes. I’d call it jammy more than fresh. I’m not a huge fruit fan but I do like this one a lot.

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  30. Marjorie Rose says:
    11 February 2013 at 8:37 pm

    I really like Ange ou Demon Le Secret–a pink flanker for sure, but it has a nice cranberry/citrus opening and a warm, friendly dry down. And it’s relatively inexpensive and easy to find at any department store–so worth a try!

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  31. Coumarin says:
    11 February 2013 at 8:49 pm

    Tauer’s Une Rose Vermeille has a rich, adult raspberry note that I personally don’t enjoy but I’m not a fruit person.

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  32. Lucy says:
    11 February 2013 at 9:37 pm

    Guerlain Insolence. It includes notes of berry and fruit pulp, but dries down like a traditional Guerlain. It’s not discontinued, but getting harder to find. I saw it all over in Paris, but it seems that US stores took it off shelves to make room for La Petite Robe Noir, which is similar in its berry fruitiness. IMHO Insolence is the better fragrance, but you should check both out. I also think you should check out Le Parfum de Thérèse by Frederic Malle. There is melon in it and any spice isn’t dark, but it’s also juicy with berry, orange, and a glorious symphony of other notes. It is very special. Good luck!

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  33. hajusuuri says:
    11 February 2013 at 11:35 pm

    I highly suggest Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady. Robin wrote a review of it here:

    https://nstperfume.com/2010/12/15/frederic-malle-portrait-of-a-lady-perfume-review/

    If you don’t have time to read through it, but you really should, the notes include: raspberry, cassis, rose, cinnamon, clove, benzoin, sandalwood, patchouli, frankincense, ambroxan and white musk

    It starts of herbal which I know is a no…but trust me, the following stewed fruit mess (in a good way) and the peek-a-boo nature of this superb perfume is just perfect!

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  34. Kady says:
    12 February 2013 at 12:01 am

    Bottega Veneta is deep jammy fruit grounded by suede and patchouli. It’s gorgeous.

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  35. egabbert says:
    12 February 2013 at 11:46 am

    I’m late to the party but you MUST, MUST try Byredo Pulp, it’s as fruity as it gets!!! Other great scents with berry or blackcurrant notes:

    Rose Praline by Parfums de Rosine
    DSH Pretty & Pink
    L’Ombre dans L’Eau (Diptyque)
    Clarins Par Amour
    Moschino Funny! (also has grapefruit) and Couture! (more tart berries and woody vanilla)

    Good luck!

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    • mals86 says:
      12 February 2013 at 12:30 pm

      Oh, yeah, Pulp! That was all melted juice bar on me, not at all my thing, but very realistic fruit.

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  36. lenika says:
    12 February 2013 at 6:06 pm

    Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne à l’Extrême

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  37. lenika says:
    12 February 2013 at 7:06 pm

    Also Desejo of Abinoam – it seems perfect for you, but I don’t know if it’s in your price range, sorry. They have a site, you can ask them (WE can ask them, I want it myself 😉 )

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