The usual routine: talk about anything you like — the perfume you’re wearing today, the perfume you would have worn if only you had a bottle, whatever.
Or, ask a question about fragrance, then see if anyone else has asked a question that you can answer…
Note: image is Violet Hill by * Polly * at flickr; some rights reserved.
I get a distinct hairspray note in many older fragrances…is that aldehyde? I don’t get in in what are usually referred to as classic aldehyde scents, though.
SOTD is vintage Scandal extrait, from a generous swapper. Thank you again, dear lady!
It may be aldehydes or…maybe your bottles have aged. Sometimes older bottles can take on a nail varnish/hair spray-like aroma in the top notes, but thankfully, that usually will fade after being on skin for a few minutes.
Is it an old bottle of an old perfume, or do you notice it in new bottles as well? I have a bottle of vintage Diorissimo that is acetone or hairspray in the topnotes and it is a function of age. Apparently Diorissimo is particularly prone to this and many vintage connoisseurs like that aspect of it (I’ve been told). I have lots of vintage Shalimar in different concentrations, fave being vintage extrait, and while I don’t get hairspray or acetone (like nail polish remover) the topnotes are probably not exactly as they should be. However, after they settle down the perfume is gorgeous.
I often get that too, but I’ve noticed that if I spritz it once or twice in the air before I actually apply it to skin that it seems to get rid of that stale note.
I’ll try that, thanks! Although I must admit, sometimes I kinda like that note!
a la Bas de Soie?? I like the hairspray in that.
I’ve found it quite nice in Iris Ukiyoe. Part of the charm, I think.
I don’t think the fragrances have gone off; my nose reads that more as the nail-polish remover note you mention.
I smell it in the new Femme, too.
Sometimes I get a distinct bug-spray note (Raid, specifically!) in perfumes, especially those with peony listed.
I think my nose is just weird!!!!
It could be alcohol, a juice that has “turned”, or even worse….old civet. I accidentally smelled an old tester of JOY, because my Aunt bathes in it and almost died from the overwhelming stench! AHHHHH ; )
I wonder who first came up with the idea to apply an animal’s anal gland juice to their wrists.
Same person who ate the first oyster, I imagine
Probably hunters came into contact with it and realized it smelled good in low concentrations.
Alas, it’s the rare day that I’m scent-free. Couldn’t make a decision so I left the house without a spritz of anything. However, I’ve just ordered a full bottle of SSS’s Tabac Aurea – unsniffed – because the notes all sound amazing and it gets an awful lot of love on the interwebs. My first SSS experience and I’m VERY excited to get my hands on it! Haven’t bought anything unsniffed in years…hope I’m not disappointed.
Tabac Aurea is the most gourgeous tobacco and amber scent. It’s golden and rich without being too sweet. On me, it almost wears like a chypre. I can’t picture myself wearing it in summer though but hey, nights in July can also be cold, right?
I thought it might be the wrong season to give this a go. I suppose I can try it out in the air-conditioned comfort of home and then unleash it on the public in the fall! Thanks for the note!
Oh, don’t get me wrong – most people wouldn’t find this to be particularly rich, I just have a thing with sweetness. Probably it will be perfect on you – enjoy
I’m very sad about Tabac Aurea. I know how fabulous it is, but it turns into dry cleaning fluid on me. Winter Woods also has a hint of of it as well so it must be some ingredient/note that they have in common. Femme Jolie doesn’t have that and it is so beautiful – maybe it should be my SOTD. I always get compliments and two of my knitting students ordered bottles of it after smelling it on me.
Hi Julia, may I ask you how you are doing? Is everything OK with your health?
Yes, thank you. I finished my first round of chemo and recent images show no evidence of my original tumors (Non-Hodgken’s lymphoma). My prognosis is very good – better than 80% survival rate at 5 years using old data so probably better than that with the new drugs I’m on. I’m starting at least two more years of maintenance chemo on Monday so it doesn’t come back.
Thank you for asking. This really is the nicest place on the web and I appreciate all the kind comments and and messages I’ve received from my Perfume Friends. XO
Oh, so very glad to hear that!
Tulp – Thank you for asking. Julia, I’ve been wondering about your current condition also (as I’m sure are many NST-ers). So glad to hear the prognosis is good. Hang in there!
I’m so glad to hear that the prognosis is good and it’s nice to see you here again
Julia, I am so glad you are doing so well!
So glad to hear that you are doing well.
Julia – happy to hear better news from you AND I have to agree with you on Femme Jolie. My favorite so far from SSS.
Thank you, Tulp, for bringing up what I’ve wondered and worried about myself. I never knew whether to ask, but I am so happy at the positive news. Just makes my day. Julia, you probably had no idea how many of us, silently, have been on the sidelines, cheering you on.
As for my scent today, I’ve decided I despise it. It’s so bad that I can’t recall the name. Something Notre from L’Occitane. I’m probably tainted because, on the way to work, I swerved and was able to avoid a very small calico kitty that had found its way onto the six-lane, divided highway, but the man behind me hit it. I gasped; inhaled all that freshly sprayed perfume and burst into tears. I will never, ever wear this stuff again. Ever.
Great news, Julia. I’m so glad to hear that.
StinkPretty, something similar happened to me many years ago. Very upsetting. {{{StinkPretty}}}
Congratulations! So glad to hear your good news. I hope that you feel like a million bucks. On the other topic – I say stay away from the counterfeit products. Find a new stylist. If you mention it to them and they subsequently get caught, then they will assume that you were involved even if you weren’t. Is it really worth the stress? Just my two cents.
Thnx Tulp for asking what is always on my mind when reading NST. Julia, it is great that ur prognosis is so good. I too know the suffering and battles that you go through with chemo and wish you lots of strength to cope with the next few years of ” Killing” ur cancer completely.
So glad to hear you’re on the mend! I’m sending lots of love and positive thoughts your way.
Wonderful news!!!
Very glad to hear that you are on the upswing!
I am the opposite with Femme Jolie vs Tabac Aurea – I didn’t like FJ at ALL, whereas I love TA. Funny.
I’m happy to hear my Shalimar lady on Shalimar Drive is doing much better. Be well sweet dearest<3
Julia, I’m so glad to hear the good news about your health. Best wishes to you.
Julia~ sending you lots love and good healing energy! I just finished radiation treatment myself and after spending 2 weeks in the Nuclear Medicine wing~ I know the strength and bravery you must have. Wishing you all the good health in the world, and please know that I am routing for you. : )
I also couldn’t decide this morning and am scent-free as a consequence. Better nothing than the wrong choice, right?
Definitely! Sometimes I’ll have a streak of undecided days, and then I’ll put something on just bc it’s been too long. I always regret it.
Congratulations on your Tabac Aurea… I really hope that it works for you (I loooove it).
I just tested Patricia de Nicolais reformulated “Week-end a Deauville”. Yes, there is apple, yes, there is calone – but you know what? I love it! It’s a fresh green scent with an edge (the leather) and it should be perfect for summer. Has anyone tried it?
I think I’ve only tried the original.
Today I am wearing mysample of Frangipani, by OJ.
I bought the body lotion few moths ago, and it is GORGEOUS!
Way more than the edt! And it’s cheaper, too ;)!
Something in the lotion is so lovely, that now the edt seems better than it has always been.
Does it ever happen to you?
That falling in love (or in hate) with perfume/fragrant product A makes you love even more (or ruins) product B?
Manoumalia almost riuned Carnal Flower for me… Now I always smell the decomposing Manoumalia in my favorite tuberose…
But Frangipani body lotion, if you love white flowers and linden blossoms, is heaven!
Sorry as usual I spread typos all over the place… It’s friday afternoon, and it’s HOT, that’s my excuse….
Aha, did not know that and it is very tempting since it still one of my favorite perfumes. Will have to check to see if I can get a sample. Thanks!
I think you would love it! It’s a bit less citrusy than the edp, and the floral are more lush… But in any case it is very true to the perfume, the differences are slight, like if the fragrance was under a soft, warm lighting…
Well~I know what I’m getting next! I love OJ’s Frangipani but the idea of more floral and less citrus ~I can’t resist! ~TY
aren’t they having a special on Frangipani this week? if you buy a bottle they throw in a free 10ml travel size? Now might be the time to pursue this.
I wore Franjipani last week….and I finally had my first warming to it!
Sounds amazing, Zazie! I’m a HUGE fan of real linden blossoms and I really like Fragipani edp but I can never decide if I love it enough to own a whole bottle. The body lotion sounds like it could be right up my street. I used to have Jo Malone French Lime Blossom body creme but it wasn’t quite right.
I find the fragrance really lovely. I also love the texture of the body lotion: hydrating but not sticky! Let me know if you try it!
Zazie,
Do you apply the lotion all over or sparingly? I’d love to try them, but they are pricey (for me).
I just put a bit on my arms, and sometimes, on my legs too…
But you don’t need much product.
I never put any premium moisturizers on my legs – too expensive! Funny but years ago I mentioned this to an AG SA and she said that she just used jergens on her legs, LoL!
I only have a couple of perfumed body lotions and creams (Black Cashmere, Youth Dew, and Shalimar) and they are so expensive I can’t bring myself to coat my body with it. I only use it on my arms and spread any extra over my shoulders and chest and use an unscented lotion everywhere else. I love layering perfumes with lotion and sometimes I like the lotion version of a scent better than the perfume. Origins Ginger something body cream is great alone and layers well with Nanadebary and Fifi Chachanil (and Sushi Imperiale and other ginger scents, I’m sure). I want some of the F. Malle body butters.
They’re pricey if you think of them as lotion… but if you think of them as perfume, they start to look a bit more reasonable.
Of course, if you’re going to layer the perfume on top of it, I guess you can’t quite use that excuse.
I know you would love Pafums Del Rae Bois de Pardis Body Cream it is to die for..it’s all you need for the summer, the EDP is suitable for the fall/ winter–I personally love to dab the EDP in a hot summer here in Texas.
The lime in Frangipani lasts so long on me that I hardly smell any flower. I was sure i had received the wrong sample especially after I tried the lotion. The lotion is just stunning since it bypasses (or at least) tones down the lime note. That’s not to say I don’t like lime in fragrances, but that it wasn’t what I expected to dominate a perfume named after a tropical flower.
My feelings, exactly!
Where did you buy OJ at? Everywhere I look it is in Europe and there is no money exchange so can’t tell the price. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I bought mine on the OJ website… I think I just googled the exchange rate; but I live in Europe, so I don’t know if it answers your question…
Zazie, I have the lotion that sounds just like yours, but mine is OJ Frangipani Absolute, anyway I layer mine with Fracas or Canal Flower and sometimes I layer the OJ Frangipani EDP with EL Tuberose and Gardenia Body Cream to make it delicate and softer. Gorgeous body lotion– the OJ.
Mine has the old name too, Frangipani absolute, even if I got it few weeks ago… That combination with fracas and carnal flower sounds gorgeous,must try it, thanks!!!
Finally tried Jeux de Peau. The irony is that my friend who was studying abroad (in Spain) was able to get me a sample before my local store even heard of it. Anyway, I think it’s a perfectly happy fragrance that somehow smells like a lovechild of El Attarine and Fille en Aiguilles , yet not as interesting as either. I definitely enjoy it though.
Other than that, my perfumed exploits are at an all-time low. Right after Angela reported trouble with her Mac, my laptop fried itself. What luck, right? At least it waited till my classes were over.
Oh, so sorry about your laptop!
ouch! I hope our laptop did not hear you say that!
Hope you can get it fixed without having to surrender your firstborn.
But at least it made it thru classes (small thing to be glad for)
I feel your pain. But it sure is nice to have a sparkling, speedy new laptop!
if its an apple…take the apple care package…my sons laptop fried and they replaced the hard drive free of charge!
Just got a call yesterday from The Perfume House that they now have Jeux de Peau. I have a dabber sample, but I’ll be interested to see if my feelings change with a generous spray on a wrist. . .so far, I suspect it’s just an “interesting scent,” and not something I need to own. However, previous comments from folk who have mentioned its chameleon-like nature has kept my interest.
On the left wrist I smell of Dior Addict, on the right Jicky EdP. I cannot decide which one I like more. I also tried Quel Amour AG, I liked it very much, but it disappeared in a few seconds…. On the other day I tried L’Heure Bleue edt, in the beginning it smelled great, but then everything went wrong. I got the same smell in the dry down as in Boudoir, and it smelled, sorry all lovers of both scents, on my skin like urinal cake…. (and of course I could not wash it off…)
Sounds like you need both!
Jicky! Jicky! It is so sexy and comforting at the same time. Try the EdT which is less expensive and many people prefer to the extrait.
I LOVED Addict when I bought it. Tried it about 3 or 4 times first. A couple of months down the line and it just seems suffocating on me ) :
I was able to get rid of something I didn’t like by using Goop multipurpose waterless hand cleaner – the stuff that mechanics use to clean greasy grime off their hands. maybe they make a purse size as well…
Wearing Vetyverio today.
Alas, lately I haven’t been interested enough in my fragrance collection to spritz anything on. By afternoon I’ll probably use Vanille Mokha because the smell of coffee and vanilla comforts me, and the scent doesn’t last long anyway.
The post above mine inspires me to say that, if I had a bottle, I’d wear Jeux de Peau today
Favorite coffee comfort smell (which I found via one of Jessica’s articles): Alba Kona Koffee after sun lotion. You might like it!
Ooh, Alba (and parent brand Avalon Organics) has the BEST scents in their products. I’ll have to give this a try!
Thanks for the rec, Robin! The food co-op where I shop carries Alba so I’ll check it out tomorrow when I’m there.
I’m having an ethical dilemma and would like some input. My hair is starting to grow back after chemo and I went to the salon for the first time in months to get it shaped up a bit. I’ve been seeing this stylist and his brother off and on for years. They are in a different space now and his wife has a consignment boutique that also sells new things like costume jewelry. She also sells knock-off bags and counterfeit perfume. She had several bottles of “Chanel No. 5” for $35. I’m not an expert in counterfeit perfumes, but I just bought a bottle of Coco and it does not have “Made in the USA” proudly stamped on the box and I’m sure No. 5 shouldn’t either. I know that counterfeiting isn’t a victimless crime and I don’t know if I should say something about it, just stop going there, or report them for selling fake goods.
When I was at the yarn shop the Chinese restaurant next door to us was busted as part of a large counterfeit handbag ring and the restaurant was closed, assets seized (except the poor fish who were left in the tanks to die), and people are now in jail for it. I don’t want that for my stylist/friend. This is new since I was last there in August and they have a lot of perfumes for sale (Creed, Issey, Juicy, etc.) in addition to the fake Chanel.
What do you guys think? What would you do?
Oh, that IS awkward. Perhaps send an anonymous note, pointing out what happened next door?
Hm, when you have a good contact to your friend, you could took him aside, and give him a sign. Maybe they don’t know it, the maybe get it from someone who told them it is original. You could point out, that it can be very expensive, when the wrong person get the information.
May be a dumb question…but do the owners acknowledge/know that these perfumes are counterfeit rather than just deeply discounted?
I worked for a perfume store that bought a great deal of counterfeit Creed by accident, and I could only confirm the bottles were counterfeit by doing quite a bit of research on the bottles and labels.
However, if the owners are aware of this being counterfeit, I would definitely note to one of the owners and/or your friend that counterfeit goods can cause legal trouble. Often if you emphasize the legal issues, and leave your own opinions out, you can yield much more positive results…i.e. “I just wanted to let you know that ______, so that you don’t run into any trouble.” Perhaps giving the instance of the Chinese restaurant might also help bring your point home!
Tough situation, though.
And, there is always the unappealing option of just not doing anything, which, as much as it may bug you, can be the best option for maintaining your friendship with the stylist, and if you believe in Karma (or any of its variants) just know that the universe will take care of the problem for you. Though, in this instance, you may want to mention the issue so that the universe doesn’t “take care of it” and put your friends in jail!
That’s a tough one. I would probably take my friend aside and make him aware of it . I would approach it assuming he is unaware and frame it as a helpful tip, outlining what you saw happen next to your knitting shop. Hope this helps!
I second this idea
Gosh, that IS a tricky one. I guess it depends on how close you are to them but I suppose that you could bring up the example of the Chinese restaurant and say that you are concerned that they are being rather unwise and could potentially get themselves into trouble given what already happened to another business in the same area.
P.S. wonderful news about your health, Julia.
Julia, I don’t know if this answers your question, but my n.5 extrait, bought in Europe, has a “Chanel New York” “stamp”… and still I believe it’s original, because the “stamp” is a kind of subtle hologram (too expensive to make for counterfaiters), on the back of the etiquette of the bottle, and the extrait smells 100% authentic.
So I suppose some n.5 might be made in USA, and for lower concentrations they might not bother with expensive markings…
…I think you should ask…. look shocked if they tell you is counterfait, and eventually don’t go into that shop again.
BTW, I send you my warmest “in bocca al lupo” for your hair and your health. I wish you all the best… and wonderful authentic perfumes of course!
That is a tough situation Julia!
Personally, I would first ask, “Are these knock-offs?” And if they answer that they are, I would follow-up with, “It makes me uncomfortable that you are selling these.” Honesty, without any sort of ultimatum (stop selling these or I’ll go elsewhere), will probably go far with these people if they are sincere individuals. Give them a chance to save face, and see what happens!
If I were going to say anything, I’d do so anonymously. Otherwise, if you tell them and they do nothing, and then some time later they get busted, they’re going to think you turned them in.
Personally, I’d probably have to find myself a new stylist; I can’t stomach that sort of thing.
I feel the same way. I’m start wondering if they are using legit hair products.
OOps, that’s an I’d rather than I’m. I guess nervous even thinking about these things!
Yes, it’s hard to know if they know the Chanel is a knock-off or not. I’d probably play it stupid. “So, what’s with the Chanel? That’s awfully inexpensive. Is it the real thing?”
I’m a knitter, too. I wonder if our paths have crossed on knitting lists or blogs – or perhaps in person at Stitches or TKGA events?
It is a tricky ethical situation for sure. Have you tried to “innocently” ask them where they get the fragrances from? They may not know they are counterfeit, if they are. Some gentle snooping may alleviate your anxiety. Also, I have bunches of current, not so current, and vintage No 5, No 19, and Coco. Some of the bottles/boxes indicate they are from USA and some from Europe. I believe from my Chanel batch number research that sometimes the juice is bottled in the USA, but not necessarily made here. I don’t know if it would necessarily be conclusive proof of a fraud per se for a Made in the USA or Made in France mark to be on the bottle or box. I also have an unboxed bottle of No 19 parfum (perfectly gorgeous and correct) I got from fragrancenet that is clearly older stock (not vintage) from Asian market based on the serial numbers.
I also want to note that the other year when I was at the Perfume House in Porltand, I got to talk to Chris, the owner, because I had a very specific question for him about vintage No 5 parfum boxes. He said something like during WWII for intstance, there was a bottling company in the US that would bottle the liquid fragrance that came over from France. Same would be true in Asia. There were markings on the bottles to help them match stoppers with bottles, etc, and there could be issues with having bottles or stoppers out of stock, which also points to some small inconsistencies with stoppers. The same would be true of the boxes for packaging. Also, my current bottles of Coco edt do not have any serial batch numbers on them, but my edp bottles do. Same is true of the boxes. And those bottles all came from reputible sources. I guess my point it, that there could be reasons for the USA or France labels on any part of the bottle or box and they may not have to do with them being fraudulent. A little discreet checking might help clear up the matter.
Hi Ann, my brain always snaps to attention when you write about your beloved Chanels. Thanks for your comments about the made/bottled in the USA issue. My bottle of vintage No 5 extrait has ‘Perfume’ on the label, not ‘Parfum’. I panicked a bit at first, until I realised that there was a time when Chanel did this for bottles sold in the US.
Funny you should mention old stock. My Chamade EDP is from Fragrancenet and it fits one of Guerlain’s gold canisters that was discontinued many years ago (the sloping-shoulder sort). Again, I was a bit startled when I noticed this, but the fragrance is fine, and later I picked up one of the empty canisters on eBay. So all is good. Still, old stock is something to be aware of, when buying from the discounters. If it has been stored properly, it will be okay, but you can’t know.
The up side of old stock is that you might find yourself the proud owner of something that has since been reformulated!
Hi Ann! Yes, sometimes it’s worth it to take risks with the older stock – it all depends on how much you want it and how much it costs. The very last Chanel No 5 vintage parfum I won on ebay last year was one of the travel parfum refils without the black plastic case. I generally like getting those vintage ones because there is very little evaporation, and they aren’t pretty enough to display, so chances are they are in really good shape. And indeed, this one smells great. Funny thing is, that the insert is such a weird size! So obviously it comes from way before the standard travel parfum size was established. I have other vintage travel parfums and it fits into none of them.
That is totally great about your Chamade! I think they discontinued that cannister style about 2002 ish. I have some of those Guerlain refils for those cannisters, but none of the cannisters. I have a Chamade and a Vol de Nuit.
Living in the land of “fake”, the only thing I can do, is make sure that I don’t buy from places other than the original boutiques or counters…If my hairdresser sold Chanel no 5, It would be so clear that they were fake…As u have a relationship with your hairdresser, I would definitely ask him. if they are, I would tell him what you feel and then simply not buy the goods from him!
Enjoy ur new hair. My sisters came back gorgeous!!! Different…she had straight hair and it came back wavy!
I’m wearing Lolita Au Masculin today! For me it’s such a Le Male more balanced. Hum, that anise and licorine notes…
Want a new bottle from Fahrenheit and The One Gentleman, wich would be the ones I would wear today if I had any of them.
Oooh, good choice! I definitely prefer the Lolita masculine to the feminine version and it’s especially nice in warmer weather.
Thanks, RuthW!! I also think it’s better than the feminine. In warmer weather it’s a lot more wearable than JPG’s. That’s one reason I preffer it. If you like Au Masculin, you should try Arpège Pour Homme and Burberry Touch; I think you’ll like them too..
Thanks for the suggestions, I love Arpege but have never smelled the masculine – will have to remedy that!
Valentine’s post just reminded me: can anyone recommend a good coffee fragrance outside of Angel for Men Pure Coffee and Jo Malone Black Vetyver Cafe? Something without vanilla or anything too sweet. I’m looking for the sharper, fresh-ground aspect rather than a latte.
(And yes, I do love my coffee so much that I seem to want to wear it. lol)
Bond no 9 New Haarlem is a lavender & coffee scent. It’s unisex perhaps even leaning a teeny bit towards masculine, not too sweet and quite nice, imo.
Hi, I like too much Rochas Man that’s too sweet only on the five first minutes, but then it becomes some green and later, a little powdery. Armani Attitude is also a good option too.
Oh! Totally forgot about Attitude. I really liked that one when it first came out. And that Zippo lighter-style bottle is fab.
Attitude’s bottle is really cool, and the fragrance is also good, though some reviewers didin’t approve it. I like all Armani fragrances except for Emporio Armani White Him. Emporio Diamonds for Him is so-so!
If someone would make the top notes of Black Vetyver Cafe last longer, I’d buy it in a minute. (not that it answers your question)
Hum, coffee… my mouth gets wet thinking of it’s smell… I looking for THE perfect coffee fragrance, and I think I’ll spend my hole life looking for it. Maybe I should be satisfied to smell it’s smell when the coffee tea is getting ready…
I know! I just want that smell around me all day!
I have heard Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s “Coffee Absolute” desribed as the holy grail of coffee scents. It is supposed to be a very true rendition (Though I haven’t tried it yet myself).
Hmmm, I don’t remember seeing that one the last time I was on her website. Is it discontinued?
I just checked and it appears to still be there.
That’s a good one, and so if her holiday scent Lumiere, coffee and spices, here’s your chai latte with more coffee than chai spices!
L’eau de Navegar from l’artisan could be an elegant alternative – it has a subtle, but discernible, coffe note.
But it’s not gourmand in the least, and quite andrgynous… I don’t if that reads good or bad in your book!
We must have posted about the same time! See my comment just below. Glad to see someone else likes this.
Ops, it seems I messed up the names Navegar and Navigateur!
Sorry!
My favorite coffee scent is Ava Luxe’s Cafe Noir. It’s similar to New Haarlem.
I think I may actually have a sample of that around here somewhere. My bottles are in great order but my samples are a whole ‘nother story!
Have you tried L’Artisan’s L’Eau du Navigateur? It is a lovely coffee, woods and spices scent, and no vanilla in sight. A scent for pirates, if ever there was. I’ve always imagined it on Jack Sparrow
Beware L’Artisan’s Navegar–NOT the same fragrance at all! I like coffee in fragrance, too, and own the Black Vetyver Cafe, but keep going back to the Navigateur in my samples. . .Happy hunting, and be well.
Oh good, I was puzzled. Didn’t remember coffee in Navegar at all. You’ve spared me pawing through the sample horde to see if I could find it.
Thank you for the clarification. I could easily have tried the wrong one! Off the TPC to put a sample in my cart.
Working my way through a small pile of goodies from DSH – SOTD is Spring Moss. This is my first experience with the mossy family and I’m not sure how I feel about it.
1) I’m returning to the world of scent after a lapse of many years and, if my memory serves correctly, it seems that the availability of fragrance strengths has changed. To clarify: from reading the reviews here, it appears that many new fragrances are issued as EDT, with some higher end scents available as EDP and/or extrait. By contrast, I seem to remember most scents being issued as parfum (extrait); I don’t remember the term EDP at all. Likewise, less strong concentrations were called Eau de Cologne and EDT, which was for inexpensive scents, was just plain ‘ol “Toilet Water.” I’m assuming that these changes are due to cost but would appreciate an explanation from someone who really knows. Thanks.
2) Where do you get all the “smileys” that seem to be popular on this blog?
1. So far as I know, it has been years since the majority of perfumes were available in extrait…someone else will have to chime in, but even in the 80s I don’t think everything was in extrait. Now I’d say it’s evenly mixed…some things come out first in EdT, some in EdP. Given that lasting power and sillage are only tangentially related to concentration, it doesn’t matter to me.
2. You just type them in, really. : – ) comes out to
No wonder my smileys never work: I always do them in the reverse direction!
Thanks Robin.
1) I’ve tried to find some info about this online but not much luck. However, I *did* just find out that it was in 1986 or 1987 that Guerlain came out with a “less than parfum” concentration which they called “Parfum de Toilette”; the name was changed to EdP in 1990. Obviously, Guerlain doesn’t set the standards for the industry but the dating is presumably indicative of trends.
I was really starting to doubt my own memories; instead, my conclusion is that I must be the only one here over 45!
2) I’ve used punctuation to create emoticons but never realized I could create smileys too. I must have been sleeping during that lesson.
Pretty sure we have a handful of over 45s around here. I’m not one of them, but I’m not that far behind, either. As for the smileys… some sites just automatically convert emoticons now. I prefer the good old fashioned emoticons, which probably just proves my first statement.
Hi Faylene! I’m in my late 50’s (and still get a shock when I look in the mirror…where did that time go?!).
Hmmm re the timeline for Guerlain…I would be 99.9% certain that cologne versions in the lovely ‘target’ or ‘discus’ bottle were around in the 70’s, and I remember clearly the ‘habit d fete’s’, the gold cannisters (the nice filigree ones, not those big clunky things from when LVMH took over…) of EDT from the earlier 80’s. But my very first bottle of l Heure Bleue was in the rosebud and was extrait and probably cost me a weeks’ pay!
I will be 49, and I look at myself and say “who is that person!!” funny…my mind still feels like a kid…controlled more, but a kid nonetheles
I raise my hand proudly. Another over 45 here!
I prefer “woman of a certain age”.
Hmmm . . . with all of the French flying around here, we might as well go for “les femmes d’un certain age.” :-0 I’m with Winifrieda on this one, too: I have absolutely no idea when this happened.
Changed to DSH Apricot Vanille for the pm – sweet but soothing.
Oh no, I am over 45! And have been buying Diorissimo in EdT since junior high, so quite sure it’s nothing new.
Sorry for being unclear. What I meant was that I have no idea when becoming “une femme d’un certain age” happened – just kinda sneaked up on me! What I see in the mirror continues to surprise me, especially since it doesn’t correlate with how I feel. ; – )
there we go, i always had the thought that you were in your late 20s early 30s….kind of like victoria
Oh no. I used to be that young
Another Over 45 here! I have been an avid perfume user for as long as I can remember, and I do remember a lot of “Cologne” and “Eau de Cologne” formulations in the past, whereas you hardly ever see that designation today, at least not in feminine fragrances. It seems to have been a trend in the 70’s. Supposedly the consumer preference in the 60’s and 70’s was for “lighter” scents, so many of the perfume houses put out EdC, which is supposed to be a lighter concentration than EdT, in order to capture this market. I am not sure that the EdC formulas were really weaker than EdT though; it may haave largely been a marketing ploy to sell the public what they thought they wanted. I do know my I had some no. 5 EdC which seemed stronger and longer-lasting than many of today’s EdTs.
Extrait (or parfum or perfume), on the other hand, does seem to be less widely available than in the past. I don’t think it generally sold well, though, at least not in the U.S., and the perfume houses are probably cutting a product that they perceive to be underperforming. It may partly be that American women tend to prefer spraying, rather than dabbing, their scent, and extrait never seems to come in spray bottles (and if it did, it would be hard to avoid overapplication).
I agree about the concentrations of yore and especially with your second paragraph about the perfume business. People just want to spray and run without an overdose of concentration, hence companies cutting back on the sale of extraits.
Hello!
Not sure about your first great question,a nd I will enjoy hearing the opinions about it…the smileys are made by typing various things together…
The winky one is the left parenthesis and a semi-colon.
The basic smiley is the right parenthesis and the letter o
Big smiley is colon and right parenthesis I think.
Heck, I may be wrong on all; this link may help??
http://www.wikihow.com/Type-Emoticons
Thanks. I was referring to little pre-fab yellow faces.
I haven’t been able to afford to buy any new perfumes, so this week I’ve been on a vintage kick–my own older vintage fragrances, especially Hermes. The other day I wore 21 Faubourg, circa 90’s when it first came out, and today I’m wearing Caliche, my bottle also circa 90’s. I am so happy that I re-discovered both of them. The eau de toilette versions still smell wonderful. I also have extrait in both, which are also still pretty.
A buying ban is great for re-discovering your collection! It’s fun to discover un-tested samples and old favorites, isn’t it???
Yes, it is fun to rediscover your own collection. When one has so many bottles, lots of them get neglected for newer items. Plus, some of them I haven’t used for such a long time, I had forgotten how much I liked them!
OOOh Caleche, one of the few I went through more than one bottle of before Mitsouko…and after I discovered ebay it was about the first ‘vintage’ I hunted down…you’ve made go and apply!!
SOTD: Habit Rouge
How, as a lover of Shalimar, has this escaped my notice until now??? Hurrah for delicious discoveries!
A cute aside: My 2 year- old and 4.5 year-old daughters got into my perfumes the other day. I could hear them discussing and sniffing so I hung back to see what would happen. I was
impressed when the little one chose Shalimar
EDP and her sister chose Chaos. Budding perfumistas!
Isn’t Habit Rouge wonderful! I bought some for my hubby but he thinks it is “too flowery” so I wear it instead!
Love the scene you painted of your kids, totally adorable – my 5yr old likes to wander through my perfume drawers looking for the Hypnotic Poison, her personal favorite.
OOh LOL! Puts paid to the ole ‘old lady’ classification!!!
SOTD is Ninfeo Mio. I was all set to wear Boid des Îles but, while looking for my sample of that, I noticed the Goutal and instantly changed my mind. Completely random decision since they are so different.
Anyway, I haven’t had the best time in the last 6 months or so and it’s my birthday next month so I’m already trying to decide what fragrant goodie to treat myself with. It’ll be either just a pricier bottle like Sycomore or Jubilation or something more affordable like Champagne de Bois plus something non-scented.
I’m wearing Ninfeo Mio today as well! It is a cheerful scent. Sounds like you deserve to treat yourself – those are good choices!
Thanks!
NM is a fun perfume, and it definitely hit the spot today. Glad you are enjoying it too
I just wore Ninfeo Mio over the weekend while I was at my parents. It seemed perfect, esp. because it was cool and rainy and also because I spent a lot of time with my Mom in her spring garden.
Happy soon to be Birthday! I say go with the SSS and a decant of one of the others. It’s always easy to buy a full bottle of something expensive in the future when things lighten up for you. A decant might tide you over without the anxiety of a big purchase. Last year was similar for me – I made myself enjoy a decant of some $$$ most of the year and then when it was time for the holidays I was able to splurge a little and it didn’t hurt the wallet as much. Good luck either way and take care!
Cool and rainy here too and NM’s green freshness worked surprisingly well in this weather.
Good call on decants. Somehow, I always forget that they are an option so that’s definitely something to consider. Thanks!
I finally got to test Ninfeo Mio thanks to a very kind perfume buddy who sent me a load of samples. I really liked it although it disappeared in about four hours – quite a novel experience for my scent glue skin. I’ve never had that happen before!
I wonder if it’s one you need to spray? That’s the only way I’ve ever tried it, and it lasts quite well. And I think normally, you make even ME look like a scent-eater.
You’re probably right, Boo. I only dabbed from the vial. But I really liked it. Send this woman a stone for her Enabler’s pin!
I AM a scent eater so I rarely bother to apply to skin. On fabric, though, I find it lasts pretty well even when dabbed.
It smells good and it’s got a little of an edge so it’s fun to wear. I don’t consider myself a huge Goutal fan but this is one of the few that I’m genuinely fond of and I liked it pretty much from the first sniff.
If it won’t leave you broke, go for something you really love, don’t settle for a compromise! This is not meant to be a sensible decision!
Thanks! I’m very conservative with FB purchases so I only ever buy things that I absolutely adore anyway. That’s my one big perfumista rule – don’t waste money on things that are just okay
I got a bottle of BLACK AFGANO in the mail today. Since it has been sold out everywhere the past few month I got really excited when I saw that premiere avenue now has it back in stock. BUT… in has been reformulated! Or at least I am pretty sure it has been. My old bottle, has a wonderful creamy mysore sandwalwood note, this one has got some weird licorice thing going on. Has anyone tried their new batch?????????
I got a small sample of Black Afgano last summer from MIss Kitty, who had just got a new bottle last year. I had no prior exposure to it, and I thought it had a very prominent anise note. I don’t know if this helps.
SOTD is No. 18. I held out on purchasing a FB until Chanel came out with the smaller bottles, but am now thinking that I might need the bigger bottle after all when I run through this one. It’s love. I applied generously, and I think it stays fairly close, but the lasting power is unexpectedly good – 6 hours and going strong. Most importantly, it’s making me smile in this dreary drizzle we’ve had forever…
Glad it is making you smile!
SOTD>>> Hermes Vanille Galante. I think eventually I’m going to need a full bottle of this because I go through 10mL decants like nobody’s business.
Also I’ve been obsessed with using my p-touch label maker to identify all my samples.
I really like that one, but admit I have not yet drained my 15 ml bottle.
I always come up with things to say in these posts but always forget. hmmmm…
Well on Friday I went to the Savage Beauty exhibit, and one of the rooms includes…Kingdom! Which, I have in a drawer in its box untouched. I decided that I would start wearing it…next fall. Big life changing decision, right?
I also went to Aedes and bought Ouarzazate. Which means I have bought TWO bottles of perfume this quarter.
I let my mom try Kingdom and Ouarzazate and she is in awe of my taste.
Wowing your mother with cool perfumes is a real coup, Krok – good work!
To echo the sentiments of a few others, I too have been too broke to buy new perfume, so I have been turning to my old standbys and samples. Luckily, a wonderful perfumista sent me some samples of some things I was dying to try that have gotten many raves, including Jeux de Peau, Champagne de Bois, Havana Vanille, Diptyque Philosoykos, En Passant and POTL LeE. I now think that all of you are CRAZY for raving about Havana Vanille and CdB.
I can’t get past the topnote of jeax de peau, with its hyper realistic brown-sugar-so-strong-I-can-feel-it-the-cubes-gritting-in-my-teeth and cinnamon bun association to experience the drydown. En Passant is beautiful, but I only get lilacs, no water or bread, and have discovered that as much as I appreciate lilacs I don’t want to smell like them on my person. This leaves Philosoykos and Luctor et Emergo, which I love. I have also been going nutty over my By Kilian “A Taste of Heaven” sample.
I’m the same way with lilacs.
We have lilacs growing on the side of my house and when the windows are open our house smells like lilacs. I love the smell of lilacs. Just not in perfume.
I know someone who said they love the smell of gasoline but would not want the smell in a perfume. I feel the opposite!!!!!!!
Hmmm, I love the smell of gasoline, so I might enjoy that note in a perfume? Does such a perfume exist??
from what I’ve heard, Tubéreuse Criminelle.
but tuberose may be my least favorite note ever so I haven’t tried it.
ahah. A 100ml of nuit de turbereuse was my first ever unsniffed perfumista purchase about this time last year. I am…hoping…I will learn to appreciate it.
The old Dior Farenheight was huge in gasoline (petrol as we say in Australia).
I find the Criminelle smells more of wintergreen, or that rubbing liniment we used to use as jocks before and after sports. To the point that my first blast of that marvel nearly made me ‘go the blub’, I found it so evocative of a wind-blasted athletic track.
Check out the notes on CdG’s Garage. I thought it was closer to kerosene, but definitely in the arena of gasoline. I wasn’t a big fan, even though I am fascinated by the same line’s Tar. Happy hunting
SOTD is Mahora by Guerlain – so yummy, this is easily my favorite white flower scent, very tropical and a bit over-the-top (according to my mom) but I LOVE it. Haven’t tried Mayotte, which is supposed to be the reformulation of Mahora, but since I bought my backup 2.5 oz bottle for under $40 and the Mayotte goes for $255 for 4.2 oz I might just wallow in ignorance, lol!
Everyone have a fabulous weekend- the sun is finally shining in my neck of the woods, hope it is where you are too!
Oh, I love Mahora – but where did you find a lg bottle for under $40?
On ebay about 3 months ago. They have some smaller bottles listed now for around that price.
I have a couple of bottles of Mahora and a decant of Mayotte so I’ve tried them side by side. The differences are negligible to non-existent to my nose. I wore this yesterday, btw. Love it!
Glad to know that I’m not missing anything with the higher end reformulation, thank you!
I so enjoy wearing this perfume, it is like an instant vacation whenever I spray it on. Also this is one of the few instances where if you love the juice it is still available at a decent price, for a Guerlain anyway.
A couple of years ago, I found that funny little half oz. bottle of the parfum for a steal on eBay! Like I needed another iteration of it. lol!
SOTD: Memoir Woman, which is my favorite scent—although I don’t wear it nearly often enough to make any sort of “signature” claims. But if I were a one-bottle at a time kind of gal…
Scent I would wear if I had a bottle of: Bois des Iles EXTRAIT!
I am beyond thrilled that the parfum is now available in the US… finally!
SOTD is nothing, as I am waiting on UPS to deliver BdL! the baby bottle.
!!! Congratulations on your Bois des Iles!!! Hopefully by now (a few hours later) it’s arrived safely and you are wearing it!!
TGIF everyone! SOTD is Keiko Mecheri Datura Blanche. I tend to prefer gourmand, oriental or spicy scents on Fridays as to my mind they transition best from day to night. Plus they last a long time on my skin so I dont necessarily need to do a spritz before heading out for Friday evening fun with the hubby.
Hope it was a fun Friday night!
Haven’t Chosen My Scent for today… go into work late, so haven’t put one on yet… thinking i might go for a little of the Old Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male! Maybe… That Bottle of Hanae Mori HM is also looking Mighty Tempting…. CHOICES! LOL!
I need a spinning lazy susan, then I would just wear whatever was in front of me when it stopped
Or use the virtual mode-random number selection from your spreadsheet list!
I won a sample of To Dream from SSS last month, and I’ve been wearing it almost every day — lovely lovely stuff from Laurie; she’s a real treasure. Also, I’m really liking Tabac Aurea in the warmer weather, which is a nice surprise. I assumed it was could just be worn in winter.
I couldn’t agree more with you about Laurie! Her customer service is top notch!
It’s surprising how some “cold weather” scents open up and bloom and are lovely in the heat.
SOTD: SL Un Lys (I love this stuff- I hunted some down b/c a dear friend’s sis is headed to Paris in a few weeks and agreed to bring us Bell Jars back. I immediately thought I would get Chene but I have fallen for Un Lys. I am very excited!
Also- I bought some Coty Translucent face powder at the drugstore- the one that has been around forever and what a lovely scent it has! Reminds me of a Caron. (and its great!)
Coty Airspun face powder is scented with Coty L’Origan.
My mother wore the powder, and one year I tracked down the perfume as a Christmas gift. A wonderful spiced floral powder scent, it does smell like it could be Caron.
Oh! Thanks for that. I used to use the face powder religiously, until I started using mineral makeup. I did love the smell of it. As for being around forever… it’s a classic. I always see it on “best beauty bargains” lists.
My sister and I used to use the Coty Airspun for many many years. I love that powdery makeup smell.
Thanks Bear! I will have to try the L’Origan. I am pretty sure I passed up a vintage bottle at a flea market recently…feeling the regret!
SOTD is Samsara EDP – ylang ylang jasmine sandalwood.
What are your favourite sandalwood-centric scents?
I wore Samsara a few days ago.
I always forget about it but I enjoy it.
Kingdom is very sandalwood and rose cumin, I saw you mention it on a previous post.
Is your avatar the guy from Tokio Hotel?
Yes ~__~
Talk about an unrepresented note in my collection…I have only one: Bois des Iles. But I’m quite happy with that one.
If you are going to have only one, that is the one to have!
You’ve got one of the best sandalwood fragrances, imho. Dyptique’s Tam Dao has a sandalwood note that reminds me of my mother’s sandalwood fan from the ’60s – though some think the cedar note is stronger in TD. Many SSS fragrances have a strong sw presence headed by Champagne de Bois which is another great sw perfume.
Seconding Champagne de Bois – and THANK YOU for helping to tide me over! <3
Third-ing Champagne de Bois! It goes hand in hand with BdI
You’ve named it! Samsara.
Cadjmere!
I think one of the things that makes vintage perfumes smell so great is the real old sandalwood.
The coolest thing happened–I met my perfume pen pal!! We met on the Posse and have been emailing for over a year. Yesterday she was passing through town and we had breakfast together. She’s even more delightful in person! This perfume hobby has expanded my world in more ways than I could have imagined. I’m very thankful to this virtual community.
VERY cool!
Suzy Q I think that is wonderful!!
I’m glad to hear about that as I would love to meet some of my perfume pals someday.
Perfume friends are the best kinds of people,truly.<3
That is so rad!
How lovely was that? What a treat to meet a perfume friend in real life.
Yes, I hope everyone gets to have that experience!
After a week of sunshine, it’s overcast today, with rain expected through the weekend (of course). SOTD is Angeliques Sous la Pluie.
I’m excited to have a new ‘fume project! A friend said the other day that she wished she could wear perfume, but so many set off migraines. I told her I’d try to come up w/some for her to try that are less likely to bother her. Should be fun!
Sunshine? What’s that?? It’s been raining over here for about 2 weeks with no stop. I am dying for some nice sunny weather! I’ve been in my cool weather fragrances too much now.
So we’re “Evil Weather Twins” too?!? After a week of rain, the sun came out today, but it’s supposed to storm tomorrow and for the next week! But at least the weather got out of the 50’s today – and I’m waaaay south of you!
Must be! It’s raining, but actually warming up. We had 60s and sun earlier, now it’s 70s and rain through the weekend. Next week looks like a repeat of this one (including the cruddy weekend).
Rain?? Let me think a minute…Oh, of course, that is what you call it when drops of water fall from the sky! It has been so long I had nearly forgotten. We actually did get a little bit (about half an inch) last week, and it made front page news in the Houston Chronicle. You know you are in a severe drought when the biggest news story of the day is a little bit of rain…
I did a 180 and my “meh” feelings on Malle’s Noir Epices have turned to utter joy and love. The bottle arrived this week. Stunning. I wear it several days in a row, which means something. Also I purchased a bottle of Lys Mediterranee with it. I’m lily-obsessed. Both make me swoon.
What did not make me swoon? Le Labo’s new Santal 33. Sadly disappointed. Love me some Le Labo, but this one smells cheap: the drydown was total Vanilla Fields. It probably didn’t help that I was wearing my new bottle of Rien a lot while I sampled this. Rugged Marlboro man? Nope. Oud 27 is miles more masculine and rough.
Noir Epices is a gorgeous fragrance. I love it too. I have a large decant that I treasure. One of these years I’ll get a FB.
PS, layering Lys Meditarranee and Turtle Vetiver #1 = fantastic.
I am totally on-again-off-again with Noir Epices. It’s one of the first samples I got (WAAaay back in December,
), and sometimes I love it, and sometimes it’s too salty/dirty for me. In short, I can see how a 180 could occur!
Hi Marjorie!!
Salty/dirty sounds kind of wonderful… I have been trying to decide which ones to get in the sample set, and I think that Epices has just won it’s spot!
Hi Dee!
Yes, you might like it. Have you smelled Dans Tes Bras? I found Noir Epices to share some of the salty skin smell of DTB in the base notes.
Nope, but DtB was actually holding the top spot on my list, so I’m glad that you mention it! I think you can pick three, is that right? Per shipping fee? I wish there were a counter near us where we could go and snatch them up. ***sigh***
Hey, we need another sniff soon!
You bet! Let’s make it happen!
Hi Jared, I’m wearing Oud 27 today from one of those Le Labo spray samples. I wonder if others think I smell like the Marlboro man! Thanks for the description of Santal 26. I’ll check that one off my list.
SOTD Orange Star and I love it, I can’t figure it out it smelled soapy, and then within an hour it changed and it gets powdery, and then it changes to juicy, and creamy orange popsicle and spicy lemon and orange peels. I also order a FB of the UNV, I used up all my sample of it, and just don’t know how to be without it.
I got a ton of soap in Zeta – must be something Andy uses…
I can’t wait to try Zeta, I’m waiting on my order of a Discovery Set and Zeta is one of them…I think Andy uses high quality materials and oils to create his elegant frangrances. I think Zeta is a white linden floral, crisp, delicate with a touch of honey, a romantic summer perfume…took a nap earlier today and I was having a dream of smelling Zeta…it was bizzare!
oops ment URV- Tauer Une Rose Vermeille was typing and my boss walked in my office and told my I smell good.:)
Adela! How have you been dearest?

I hope all is well with you and yours, I’ve missed you!
I’m also happy to read that Orange star and URV are so wonderful on you and that you are getting them.
My best and HG is still Une Rose Chypree and I still think of your kindness when I look at my now empty bottle- no worries, I’m getting the big one soon!
XOXO~Tamara
So glad to hear from you Tamara, and I did get some little back-up
bottles of URC…Ohh I’m like you about this one, only one or two sprays is all you need; it is Delisioso!! I’m glad you are getting the big bottle! remember you can fill the little empty bottle simply by unscrewing the cap.
Hello Everyone! My SOTam was No 5 Eau Premier and my SOTpm is Drole de Rose. I have a wedding to go to tomorrow and can’t decide what fragrance to wear. Grumble, grumble. I can’t decide between Liaisons Dangereuses, Chamade, or Secrete Datura. All are good and will last for many hours. What a quandry, lol!
Ann I would wear Liaisons Dangereuses! You will smell so goooood!
Ha ha, I was going to vote for Chamade. But to me, it would depend on what I was wearing, the weather, and what kind of mood I was in in the morning.
I’d vote for Chamade too, but I don’t know that you’d go wrong with any of them.
Ditto. Also, day or evening wedding?
SOTD is Serge Lutens Rousse, from a sample I got at the SF Sniffa two weeks ago. We attendees also swapped samples and decants, besides getting them from the retailers, so my thanks to whoever brought this one to the table. Plus, while swooping through the mall earlier today I sprayed one wrist with EL Bronze Goddess – I thought it would be a coconut suntan lotion scent, but it reminds me more of some lovely Thai dish. Herbs with that coconut?
I’d like to hear others’ takes on these two. I’m enjoying them so far, and surprisingly, they don’t even seem to clash.
I like Rousse very much, but I decided it’s too subtle to buy a FB. I can imagine that it would layer nicely with BG, and I can completely imagine the spicy Rousse emphasizing the coconut curriness of BG! I own a FB of Bronze Goddess, and I don’t regret it. I do get mostly coconut, but you’re right that there’s some depth there beyond coconut–something warm that I can imagine reading as a touch spicy to some noses.
Rousse is one of my comfort scents, that and Gris Clair are sort of un-typical SL scents, not as ornate as others in the line, and I find that I wear the simpler Lutens more often than the heavy hitters. I remember in The Guide, Luca Turin was less than impressed with Rousse, calling it a scent from Lutens “periode bizarre”.
love, Love, LOVE, Gris Clair!
has anyone ever tried to strengthen the scent of their eau de parfum or what have you by lettng it evaporate a bit? maybe a dumb question, but just thought I’d ask
I didn’t do it on purpose, but it does strengthen the scent.
Long story short – JPG Le Male with bulb atomizer, bulb atomizers are NOT airtight, hadn’t worn it in a few months, half the bottle had evaporated and the juice was intensely coloured.
Already nuclear strength Le Male became super-duper nuclear.
If you try it, only test a small portion of the juice, you can’t go back.
YMMV
Keep in mind that it would change the balance, since you’re not just losing the alcohol, and the more volatile top notes would evaporate earlier on, I’d think. I’ve purchased vintage perfumes that were sealed but nonetheless partially evaporated, or used ones that seem to have evaporated, too, based on the color. I think they are heavy on the base notes. I still like enjoy them, but it’s not the same as the original pristine scent. This might or might not work for you, depending on the scent, but why not just spray more heavily?
SOTD: Cartier L’Heure Fougueuse, a decant gift from my perfume pen pal who I just met in person yesterday (see above). Wow: LHF is everything they say it is–and love at first sniff.
I think I am the only one left who has not tried a single one of those Cartiers!
SOTD: AG Chevrefeuille, which I am loving, thanks to a fellow poster! It’s perfect for today, it’s rainy, but not cold, about 65. I’m noticing it has better staying power on my neck vs. my wrist. Bonus!
This was one of my first loves after finding NST, too. Such a perfect spring scent!
SOTD: Borneo 1834. It’s still cool enough here to get away with chocolate and mothballs. We had twice the usual rain this month, which is good.
I’m going to have to cut back on perfume because my car packed it in after 238,500 miles and I now have payments on a shiny new red Prius. I resisted the DSH Italian collection at the Denver Art Museum.
I did buy L’Heure Bleue for my sister’s birthday. I gave her a sample a while ago and she has the good taste to like it as much as her old standard, Arpege. (The other sister only wears Coco.)
Congrats on your new car! That was amazing mileage on your old one though. I hope my old Jeep lasts as long!
My “new” car has over 103,000 miles on it. The other car has 265,000 and counting.
I’m much rather spend $$ on perfume than car payments!
Happy Friday everyone! I was in Neiman Marcus today and the Creed SA sort of grabbed me. She was nice enough, but I hate being grabbed as I walk by. Anyway, what I ended up smelling was Fleurissimo. I know about the Princess Grace story but had never smelled the fragrance. It seems like a lovely floral. I came home looking for perfume reviews on it, but not much to be found. Does anyone here have any experiences and opinions on this fragrance?
Here’s a review: http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com/2008/03/white-floral-queen-part-two-creed.html
Sorry, I can’t tell you anything about it – that one I’ve never smelled, either.
Thank you Mals, this was a nice review.
I often wear Fleurissimo in the spring and summer. In fact, I recently went on a week-long trip to Canada and it was the only fragrance I took with me. It is fresh and clean without smelling like laundry detergent. I also like Creed’s Love in Black, but Fleurissimo is my favorite. I’m looking forward to trying their new White Flowers scent when it becomes available in the USA. So far, I’ve only found it on their UK website. Has anyone tried it yet?
I wish these posts had an edit function to repair grammar gaffs!
PekeFan, thank you for your input. I think I might have to order a sample of this and try it further. It seems soft and lovely and like something that I might enjoy. I am sort of glad that the Creed SA grabbed me because even though I had heard about Fleurissimo, it is not something that I would have sought out on my own.
Summer is finally, FINALLY showing it’s bright ,warm face around here so SOTD was Monyette Paris. I just adore this scent, it’s creamy and delicious.I want to get the body mist of it so I can spray wildly all over.

I finally got to buy from SSS and I’ll get them Mon.
I’m very excited!
Also waiting for some DSH’s…. I’ll have a fun time next week.
And I’m saving up for some OJ’s that I want, I go crazy for that house so much. I just love perfume, really.
I wouldn’t have guessed that you love perfume, Tamara….
Let us know what you think of your new purchases. Will these be your first SSS scents?
LOL Rapple, yeah it’s not TOO obvious is it??
I will let you know all about them.<3
Which ones did you get, again?
Hey bebe!
Well I didn’t have to get Velvet Rose cause of your generosity!
So I got lil’ bottles of To Dream,Wood Violet,Ambre Noir and some Lavender Absolute lotion. Yummy!
Wood Violet and Ambre Noir are two of my favorite SSS scents (after Champagne de Bois, of course).
Hi everyone, I’v had ‘Like This’ for quite some time but just decided to ‘break it open’ a couple of days ago. (The weather has now got cold). I thought it smelled nice and also interesting. I asked about 3 people what they thought and they all thought it was revolting on my wrist.
When I bought it the SAs working there thought it smelled really nice on me; and they have often advised against certain frags, so I do trust them. Now i am uncertain. Has anyone else had negative responses to it? One person told me it smelled like onion!
Were you at a bar/restaurant when they were sniffing?
Had you had it on longer when your friends smelled it than the amount of time it was on your wrists in the store? Maybe your chemistry interacted with it as it developed. What did *you* think of it?
I wasn’t at a bar or restaurant, nor had I been eating onions –
The SAs may have smelled it after 2 hours; the other group, about the same, more or less. (I don’t sit around in perfume shops for hours, but sometimes I return after coffee, or other work or shopping or whatever).
I thought it might smell a bit on the sweet side, and just, maybe, too pumpkin-ish; but the group that hated it didn’t find it sweet at all, and couldn’t discern pumpkin – so now I’m just confused!
I don’t get pumpkin (and I certainly don’t get onion) from my bottle of Like This. I do get ginger and a big maple note (similar to maple syrup but not as sweet.) Lovely in autumn.
I never got pumpkin from this one, but I do get the ginger. I really tried to like it, but in the end, it’s just not me. I did, however, love it when I took a bath after applying — the whole tub area smelled fantastic and made for a relaxing bath!
Wait, did it smell like onions to *you*? Or just to your friend? That kind of makes a difference …
If I thought it smelled of onion I would have scrubbed it off after applying BUT I am VERY suggestible, so I now keep thinking it smells like some kind of pumpkin soup that contains onion. : – /
I’v just put a little on (since I’m at home for a few hours) so hopefully I’ll become conscious of it while not thinking and be and be able to judge better.
Well so far I’m enjoying it – but don’t know if I would have the courage to wear it out again!
My dad’s opinion was, ‘I’v smelled worse’ -LOL- he cannot stand Daphne! Luckily BF likes it though.
Yeah, maybe they get onions when they smell food scents they’ve had with onions, and there are some spice notes in there too. I’d love some pumpkin squash soup with ginger and onion … if you don’t get onions then I’d say it’s them.
Also, Like This IS pretty unique, like you think, “gourmand” for like a second and then think, “no…” and then where are you? I liked that (Liked This) about it, it makes you think. Sorry your friends don’t like it tho …
‘I’d love some pumpkin squash soup with ginger and onion’.
But maybe not in a perfume bottle sitting on your dresser, LOL!
Anyway, I do like it enough to want it just to use at home, so all is good.
: – )
Have been meaning to post this (and kept forgetting.) And partly had no idea where to put it, anyhow. Anyway, was ordering at Smell Bent this afternoon, and peeked at Brent’s blog real quick. For anyone interested in the Frankensmellies sprays, I think that may be where he’s going to tell a bit about them. The current one is (if anyone’s interested) gardenia and woods (but I don’t remember which woods, or even if specific woods were mentioned.)
Thanks!
SOTD is vintage Fendi by Fendi. Mandarin, cedarwood, cloves…. potent, exotic, refined. Like YSL Opium, it’s a museum-replica piece of Chinoiserie– yet it’s distinguished by a honeyed autumnal note reminiscent of Ginestet Botrytis. Lovely, and one of the best fragrance risks I’ve ever taken.
Oh, that does sound nice – congratulations! It’s these kinds of scores that keep me haunting ebay!
SOTD – Jicky pdt on my right arm and Jicky edt on my left. Similar scent but the pdt is stronger and hanging in there longer.
Okay…. I’m prepared to be laughed off of here, but here goes….
I received a sample of Traversee du Bosphore this week, sniffed it, liked it and put some on. My first thought was, “This is Iris Ganache.” I kept sniffing and the more I sniffed, the surer I got that the sample vial had been mislabeled.
I ended up trying some of my IG next to it, and yep, virtually identical. I checked with the person who sent me the TdB sample, and she assured me that she didn’t even own IG, and that the TdB sample came from her decant. I’m almost tempted to order a TdB sample from TPC to confirm as what I got was *nothing* like the listed notes, or the various reviews.
Has anyone (anyone, Bueller?) else experienced this?? Am I crazy?? Is my skin wacky??
I couldn’t tell you, I’ve never smelled either one…
And I haven’t tried iris ganache, but to me TdB is quite apple-ish and sweet…
To mem TdB seems airer and doesn’t have the bit of iris that IG has in the opening notes. TdB dries down to a perfect vanilla that’s not too sweet (love it!). IG just seems sweet (too sweet for me) , almost syrupy, and much more gourmond. IG reminds me more of PdN Kiss Me Tender than to TdB.
That’s just how I would describe them, too (except I haven’t smelled the PdN). I called IG Iris Gagache, but went on to buy a FB of TdB.
I get a lot of apple and tobacco from TdB and IG is totally different (on me anyway). It reminds me of iris scented cream fondant.
What I like about TdB is the balance of candied sweetness and leather, sort of like SL Daim Blond but with apple instead of apricot. Haven’t tried Iris Ganache, though.
Thanks all for your input! Apple and peach aroma-chems aren’t very strong on my skin, while the candied ones they both use are. Those chems may be what is overpowering the other notes. I did see where TdB lists iris as a note and I did get quite a bit of that, and of course, that’s a prevalent note in IG. I’m going to try this experiment again and see what happens.
Enjoy the rest of the weekend!
I recently just “won” a love pre-1951 bottle of Chanel No. 5 extrait that was sealed until I opened it. It’s completely perfect and lovely, and I wore it a week straight when I first got it. But now I’m concerned about storing this bottle so that it doesn’t leak or evaporate into thin air. It’s currently in its original box(es) on my dresser in upright position.
I’m wondering if the stoppered bottle is enough to prevent (or significantly slow down) evaporation or if I should consider decanting it into something else. I’m worried about spilling if it should be knocked over. This is my first bottle of perfume that isn’t in atomizor form (ok, not my first, but the splash versions with screw on tops from when I was younger doesn’t count..)
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to store this so I can enjoy it for years and years? It’s the 1 oz bottle (201).
Thanks!
I have no answers, but a similar problem…Those stoppers are glamourous but they do seem rather unsafe for the juice inside: evaporation, spilling… That’s quite a nightmare!
On the other hand I envy your wonderful find!
N.5 extrait is heaven… And I don’t even know the great vintage versions, but can imagine the lushness.
I’ve had the same thought, CM. It would seem ideal to decant this precious juice into a dark glass, well-sealed bottle and store most of it in the fridge, with a smaller, more accessible decant for actual use, and the original bottle on display. But I’ve never gotten around to this with any of my stoppered bottles, largely because I’ve never had time to search out the right storage bottles. Also because I’m afraid I’d spill them during the decanting, plus I enjoy using the lovely bottles.
I can say that I would recommend disposable pipettes (I got mine are from The Perfumed Court) for decanting. This works FAR better than trying to pour into a funnel or something. And I use cocktail straws for smaller vials, a trick that Joe recommended.
If you decide to decant it, I hope you’ll report back someday on the approach you found. And congratulations on your score!
Am musing on the various perfumista stages, I think I have reached calm waters.
I used to want a storage room full of everything I ever bought or sampled, but no more. Downsizing is sad, but there really are bottles I no longer love, and can’t give the museum space to become vintage.
On the plus side, at this stage of the journey, I know for sure I am a sucker for green chypres, No 5 in all its facets, guises and remakes, Sonoma Scent Studio, Apres L’Ondee, Nahema and Chamade by Guerlain, juicy oranges/orange blossom, and rose in all her forms.
My standouts and go tos are Osmanthus by Ormonde Jayne, No 5 Parfum, Eau Premiere and Cristalle EDP by Chanel, Infusion D’Iris by Prada, Femme Jolie by SSS and Eau D’Hadrien by Annick Goutal.
For the moment though, enough is enough and I will love the ones I am with.
Do you think Perfumista-ness is a linear progression or a cycle? I am unquestionably “young” at this, but based on my experiences with my many other enthusiasms, I have found that after the initial obsessiveness, my interest in a particular hobby waxes and wanes in some more-or-less predictable fashion. I end up having sort of seasons in which I focus on a few things and that transitions into something else. I guess what I’m asking, is do you think that you’ve reached “crone Perfumista” life-stage, or simply a simmering-down period?
I go through the same thing. At first it was a frenzy. After four or five months, I no longer felt the need to buy (although I still wore a couple of scents every day), then I went through another “buying” period. This past winter I happily rotated between Chergui, Cadjmere, Orchidee Vanille, OJ Woman and Tiaf and L’Huere Bleue. But, I’m beginning to feel restless again…:)
Great philosophy, Sunsetsong!
SOTD for me is Creed’s Virgin Island Water. I have been spraying it willy-nilly for the past 3 weeks since I purchased a FB. I have been wanting it forever and finally allowed myself to splurge. It is everything I imagined it to be, but I think it has better longevity when it’s actually hot out…at least I remember it lasting longer when I first tried it a few summers ago when my skin was damp from the 90 degree weather. Is this a common thing to experience? As in hot and humid equals more longevity?
I don’t know about hot, but humid makes sense, as it’s difficult for anything to evaporate quickly in the humidity.
I never thought of wearing NM in cool weather, always thought of it as a summer scent…maybe I’ll give it a try tomorrow
This was supposed to be a reply to another post – which I now cannot find!
Alright, newbie question of the day!
So, I have noticed an unfortunate pattern in my FB purchases and would love some insight from the more experienced in this crowd!
What I have observed is that I sample a scent, usually as a dabber (although I rarely “dab,” preferring to more generously apply) and if it’s love, I may decide to buy a bottle. However, once I own the bottle, I often find that it either a) doesn’t smell as strong as I thought it did, b) doesn’t last as long as I thought it did, or c) doesn’t smell quite as good as I thought it did!
So, I ask: Am I merely fickle or is this related to the different methods of application?
Could be both! I recently bought three bottles and found I didn’t love them as much as I thought I did. Such a disappointment since the last time I bought several bottles in a short span of time, I loved each and every one and wore them often. So far, I’ve only made a couple of “mistakes,” but these are not the kind of mistakes I like to make!
Ah I know what you mean! I think its the thrill of the chase as much as anything…the grass is always greener you know! But I have found that after the abandoned spraying of the newest love for a couple of weeks, then the ‘calm down put away’ phase, that I come back to it loving it even more; in other words, my first impulses were right.
Then there is the joy of the seasons turning and ‘rediscovering’ those beauties anew.
The thrill of the chase is right! I DO wonder how much of it is my innate desire for novelty! I am a true seeker of new experiences, and perfume has *really* encouraged that! LOL! I also sincerely hope that it is merely a calming down phase and that I can look forward to rediscovery!
Many do seem to smell drastically different dabbed than sprayed. I hate spending much on samples, so I always do get just the little dabby ones for a sneak preview. Maybe you should get some small spray vials, and if you find something you’re considering buying, you can transfer the rest of your sample into the spray vial for a test, just to be sure.
Where’s a good place to get small spraying bottles?
Bonbori, I get mine from Sonoma Scent Studio, just
empty 2.5 ml mini glass spray vials w/ metal screw caps and plastic overcaps because I like those kind the best but I know there are alot of places on the web .
Tamara,
What is the best way to clean the little spray bottles after they’ve been used for one fragrance and it’s time to try another?
Hi Lexford!
Sorry to get back to you so late my dear!
In answer to your question~ as far as it concerns when it’s just for me alone well I just re-use it, I don’t clean it or anything because it doesn’t bother me to do that. I know others would probably never do this but like I said , I don’t personally have a problem doing it.
Now if I’m swapping and decanting for someone else it’s just good manners to use brand-new fresh decants but I’m sure there is a way to clean out old ones but I couldn’t exactly tell you how to go about it- rubbing alcohol perhaps? I hope I helped a little!
Take care. <3
Hey Tamara,
Only reason I asked was in case there was a problem of mixing the fragrances…. like cleaning out that wine glass before sampling another. But come to think about it, I don’t worry much about a clean wine glass, so will adopt a similar attitude about perfume spray bottles. :^)
Accessories for Fragrances is also good if you need larger quantities of vials/sprayers. The S/H is a bit high, but they’re speedy and reliable.
I think Kevin uses them also. I use Pilotvials, but it’s been ages since I’ve taken the time to compare prices.
I’m conservative in my full bottle purchases. If I really like a sample I’ll buy an 8 mL decant from some place like TPC. If I go through the decant in less than three months (which usually doesn’t happen), then I buy a full bottle. Some fragrances (I’m looking at you L’Artisan) really need to be sprayed while others work better dabbed.
This is a very sensible way to go about it, and I used to do that, but TPC charges 3x the full price of perfumes (and if they got it a discounter, even more). I just can’t abide by that. If I really want to give something a longer test drive, I’ll do a swap on MUA.
That’s kind of my approach too. 8 mls is a good size. I feel like I have plenty, but have not spent too much on it. Of course the cost per ml with TPC can be very high, but there is NO WAY I could get through FBs of all the scents I love. Large decants are especially good for perfumes that only come in very large bottles, such as the new exclusive Diors, and the Chanel Les Exclusifs (although at least there the bottles have come down 75 mls).
I think a bit of both too. Some scents behave a little differently when sprayed vs dabbed, some wear differently depending on the weather, and some times it’s just the novelty which wears off after a while.
I’m also very strict about FB purchases so only buy things which I’ve tried time and time again and which still inspire irrational love, swooning and cravings after that.
A small decant might be a good option before deciding to spring for a bottle.
I’ve started buying more 2.5 or 5 ml decants of scents that are well-regarded or by fav noses, etc., i.e., ones I’m most inclined to think I might want. This allows me to spritz and test more thoroughly before deciding whether I really need a larger decant or FB. I often get them from The Perfumed Court, since I’m very short of time and they have such a wide selection.
‘Divine Enfant’, on me, smells very different dabbed to sprayed. I got it based on the dab effect. I didn’t like it sprayed, but then tried spraying really close to the skin and it smelled just like a dab. Maybe try that?
By the way, I’m even more of a newbie – And a newbie thats made many more mistakes than she should have…
But, I’v found the first few sprays from a new bottle never smell as good or as strong as what I remember from a tester. Its maybe only by the 3rd wearing that it smells as I recall. I have no idea whether this has to do with the spray mechanism, or with the idiosyncracies of my nose.
In my personal experience dabbing vs spraying can make a huge difference, and for certain fragrance categories more than others.
For example, the big aldehydic fragrances, in low concentration (edt), can smell like their own pale shadow when dabbed instead of sprayed.
I also observed that the way you spray (and the spray nozzle itself) can slightly affect how you smell the fragrance. I have developed my own trick to tone down some perfumes that I love but which open with a whoooompf too much: firm spray(s), arms at a distance. It brings out the heart of the fragrance!
As a rule of thumb, when you dab a fragrance you lower it’s voice, it diffuses less, you get less of the top notes and more of the base notes, you flatten slightly its progression. Some oxygen-eating powerhouses become eminently wearable when dabbed…
That’s been my experience too.
I’ve been enjoying my (much larger than I had realized) collection over the last several months, but I bought a bottle of Jacomo #8 this weekend. It’s a “light” oriental – I get a lovely chai tea impression from it which is probably the cardamom. I’ve gone through two decants, so I’m anxiously watching the mail for the bottle.
OOoooh! I’d love to hear if you still love it when you get the bottle! It’s been on my “to buy” list for a few months now, but I’ve become more hesitant in my purchases, lately. (see comment above)
Has anyone else tried any of the SoOuds? I tried Fam (“mouth”) and love it. . .saffron, rose, spices, and a weird rubber note that makes things interesting. That vinyl/rubber note is likely the fascinator for me; one of my beloved go-to fragrances is Bvlgari’s Black.
I have to be one of the few folks fascinated by CdG’s Tar. It has that rubber note, too. I’ve had two samples now, and strangely enjoyed them. I don’t like it alone, but layered with a vanilla, tobacco or leather fragrance, it is fascinating! One perfumista buddy (snowcrocus) had me layer Tar with Horowitz’s Perfect Gardenia–sounds bizzare, but it amped up the earthiness, the dirt of the gardenia.
And SOTD: Carnal Flower, from *yesterday*! I love that fragrance, but she’s really big. Be well, you guys!
I tried Burqa, which I liked but which seemed surprisingly faint to my nose, and another one that I did not care for. But Joe also mentioned Fam and another yesterday as really lovely, and I may try more.
Thanks! I looked up Joe’s comment. I’d moved away from that article on Oud Shamash, as the ancient sun god/dess reference wigged me out. Not to mention yet another company releasing an oud-centric scent. There must be an inexpensive aromachemical the perfumers are gleefully using for oud. I love oud, but even I’m having note fatigue.
Glad to hear from others out there trying the SoOuds. I tried Burqa as well, and have to agree with you. It was oddly muddled, muted, perhaps trying to evoke scent wafting from beneath a veil??? That’s me being charitable.
If Burqua was my only scent from the company, I would not be impressed. Fam, though, haunts me. I’m dragging out my little sample, and wishing for more. It is soft. Not as loud as the Montale line (which I love!). More complex, less linear in development, but not a sillage monster when dabbed. Next, I’ll have to try sprayed. Be well.
I am wearing Baghari today by Robert Piguet. I love aldehydes and spice! Not my signature fragrance, but at least in my top 20. Perhaps a tad feminine for a man, but right on target for a perfume lover.
At some point I came upon Cravache at a really good price and liked it a lot. But since I had already splurged so much I mustered up the resolve to say no! Anyway, around that point I realised I had started liking Bergamot…
I am fairly new to the perfume world and posting for the first time (hello!). I’m not wearing any perfume today (which feels odd) as I am about to head out and spend some time smelling the Parfums de Nicolai range for the first time, anything I should especially look out for?! I am trying to break my natural instinct to fall immediately in love with powdery floral, I think it’s beginning to work as my last 2 bottles were Bois de Iles and Bvlgari Black (immediate perfume love in both cases)… thank you for this website, it has been such a wonderful introduction!
Those are wonderful (Bois des Iles and Black)!
I am a big fan of the PdN fragrances, and knowing that you have a fondness for soft florals, I’ll recommend Juste une Reve, a restrained tropical floral with rose and iris rounding off the monoi (white florals and coconut) – don’t worry, it’s not as beachy as it sounds. Other favorites of mine from the brand include Le Temps d’une Fete and Vanille Tonka. You might also try Odalisque, Sacrebleu and Maharanih.
Seconding the Odalisque, it’s easily my favorite of those I’ve tried.
I adore PdN Le Temps d’une Fete and Odalisque. Both are divine!
I’m another big PdN fan. My favorites in the line are Sacrebleu, Le Temps d’une Fete, Maharanih, and Eau d’ete.
Hi and welcome. I’m sure I’m too late to recommend any, but tell us what you smelled!
Hello. Mals was absolutely right, Juste une Reve was beautiful, with just enough coconut (if I close my eyes) that I am not sure I will be able to resist as the summer holidays approach. But I really fell for Sacrebleu which as a soft oriental (hum definitely a theme) would smell wonderful at the end of a warm evening. Smelling quite a few of her range has also taught me that I am still immediately put off by overly green top notes (which I found in Odalisque and Temps d’une Fete), I just wish I had more wrists! I also liked Rose Pivoine as a really fresh rose.
Anyway this was longer than I intended – thank you for your help it really is a lovely range and it is so nice to find a niche company selling 30ml bottles.
Nice! Yes, love the 30 ml bottles, and the prices are so relatively reasonable for niche. Great brand.
Today I caved and bought the Harajuku Lovers Wicked Style gift set. They are so adorable, no regrets! The nice man that sold it to me even gave me samples of the perfumes so I won’t need to use the bottles plus a couple of other miniatures.
Nice! I like keeping samples in my purse.
Congrats! I do want that darned G of the Sea.
Me too. I almost bought that as well.
Just a short rant.
The new snobbery = wearing vintage fragrances. Being snobbish about so-called department-store perfumes is not enough now (if only *all’ perfumes were as good as some Estée Lauders, for instance): these days one needs to be wearing only vintage fragrances. When I joined MUA nine years ago, the word ‘vintage’ was hardly ever mentioned, in the past two or three years the number of posts telling people that ‘only vintage will do’ have multiplied tenfold. I find it patronising. *And* it says, ‘Look at me, I’ve got pots of money and can wear stuff that is outrageously expensive.’
Everything dies in the end – perfumes disappear. Mourn them, by all means, and move on…
I dont go for vintage because i like BUYING stuff and vintage is way too much of a hunt. But from what I understand, its not always the pricy option: those who adore vintage keep their eyes (and noses) open for it and seem to get great bargains! Also, because the stuff is so often found at second hand stores and garage sales, collectors always impress me as being bohemian and eclectic rather than snooty!
Unfortunately the only vintage I ever smelled had lost its scent, so its all shiny new, plastic sealed bottles for me – when I’m able to splurge, that is.
Anyway, hope the rant got that off your chest, LOL!
Merlin, I am aware it isn’t always the pricy option, but it most often is. And it is the option that is bound to leave one heartbroken in the end and on the verge of neurosis. LOL!
Oh, I don’t know… I have found *plenty* of vintage things on ebay for less money – yes, LESS – than currently available items. Witness my 1950s 1oz bottle of No. 5 parfum for $32, for example.
I also notice that nine years ago, IFRA regulations were not the enormous influence that they are now. (You don’t think that maybe it’s exclusionary to talk about “how things used to be,” back when MUA was the only place to talk about fragrance? Before most of the people reading this blog were interested in it, and therefore not part of the Original Real Perfumista Club? That would certainly exclude me.)
Oops. I just reread over this and I see that it comes across as nasty-tempered, which I didn’t mean at all.
I just meant that before all the regulations changed, there were certainly formula changes, but it didn’t seem to matter as much as it does now, and that the focus on vintage is a reaction to changing times.
mals86, don’t worry about coming across as bad-tempered (you weren’t anyway): that’s my default setting.
I am probably older than a lot of NST commenters here (63 this year) so I’m afraid I can’t help referring to the past. I can make it even worse and more arrogant by saying that, although I joined MUA in 2002, I knew a lot about perfume before then. I racking my brain to think of something that MUA actually taught me…. er… Blogs, yes, forums, no. LOL!
I do agree with the idea of mourning and moving on. I stopped trying to chase down discontinued favorites a while ago because I realized that as much as I loved those favorites, there were many readily available perfumes out there waiting to be sampled and savored.
Of course, if an inexpensive bottle of the original Vent Vert ever came my way…..
Aparatchick (love your username, btw), I haven’t yet read all the comments re. my rant, but I expect you will be the only one agreeing with me. Thank you.
Of course, if a really good vintage fragrance came my way easily and cheaply, I wouldn’t reject it, but I wouldn’t spent time and energy looking for it. But then I am someone who doesn’t even go back to perfumes I wore in the past. I stopped wearing Wrappings as soon as I heard it was being discontinued (didn’t realise Harrods still sold it all year round). I abandoned it before it could abandon me, as it were.
I think the department store is a bogus idea, since Harrod’s calls itself a dept. store and I for one would be happy to shop there -Roja Dove and all!
Indeed, Tulip. And Chanels, Guerlains, Diors are sold in department stores. Not exactly the dregs of the perfume world.
Rants are a key ingredients of lively open polls, Bela! I agree there are many wonderful new perfumes – clearly one could wear only perfumes that came out in the last 12 months and smell fabulous!
At the same time, many niche lines are more expensive than the not-rare vintage perfumes (like Arpege and Miss Dior). IFRA, over-harvesting and population pressure have taken more and more key ingredients off the table. Excellent perfumes have been reformulated to be cheaper or more appealing to a younger market. Continuing to use the same name is a lie – you couldn’t do that with a book and get away with it! These are real issues, and I feel like the rate of reformulation and discontinuation has accelerated in recent years, which must contribute to the trend you are seeing on MUA.
Personally, I see perfume as an art, and it’s the one I’m most focused on at this point in my life. I want to see the real Mona Lisa if I can, not only the Andy Warhol version or contemporary art. That’s one somewhat obsessive approach, not the only way. Admittedly, there’s also an element of a sort of “stop the world I want to get off” reaction to the mad whirl of new releases.
Also, as Kurt Andersen put it on Studio 360 about whether time travel would ever be possible, when you’re over 50 (or way over, LOL) you really ARE a time traveller. I smelled some of these vintage scents when they were new, and I’m thrilled to step through that shimmering olfactory portal to even earlier decades whenever I get the chance.
Oh don’t get me started on reformulations! I realise that we obsessive students of ‘fume are the exception in the buying public, but even things that are nearly brand new seem to change for the worse! For instance I fell in love with the Killian Liasions Dangerouses upon sampling only about a year and a half ago. When I got around to buying a set of travel sprays recently, I would swear there has been a tiny but perceptible shift away from the jammy richness of the sample. Hopefully its just a maturation thing!
And vintage, well I’m older and the changes in my beloved Mitsouko nearly made me give up perfume…as soon as I discovered ebay I laid enough vintage in to last me out…
BUT I sure do agree that times change and so do our tastes. There are extraordinary beautiful things coming down the pike at intervals. Look at our daddy Serge!
But my absolute amazing thing of maybe my whole new born-again perfumista-hood is the half bottle of old Diorama I got for $20 last week. Its absolutely blown my mind. Unfortunately its the sort of experience that only reinforces the obsession to keep hunting and trying…I’d nearly put the vintage bug to bed, thinking about things…oh, I never really liked that back when, and I still don’t!
Actually, Nozknoz, I wasn’t thinking so much about older perfumes vs new releases – I find a lot of new stuff rather ghastly, but about old formulations of the classics.
On the other hand, I cringe whenever I see a 20-year-old perfume being called ‘vintage’. That’s not the vintage I mean.
It’s true, I’m including any perfume that is no longer available, such as 1999 J’Adore.
In any case, I shall usefully imagine a SLAP! from Bela bringing me to my senses the next time I am tempted to overspend on ebay
I feel your pain…sometimes I also feel people dwell on and mourn vintage with a little too much vigor. On the other hand, I have been lucky enough to find well-priced vintage scents that are very different than their current versions (Diorissimo, Chamade, Dioressence, Diorella). But generally speaking, if the new version is a pale shadow of the old, then I just move on. We have so many choices, after all.
I understand your point, it is sometimes frustrating for me to hear “this perfume is ok but the version produced between July and September of 1958 is SO much better, it will change your LIFE” for several reasons.
1) I really like the current version, so does that make me unsophisticated?
2) I don’t have the time, resources or knowledge of manufacturing codes, bottle types and or boxes to even identify that holy grail perfume if it landed in my lap!
That being said, I have a number of vintage fragrances that I adore – mostly bought on ebay (where I have set myself a $15 limit) and a few found at random estate sales. If you wait and check back often enough there are some great finds. Fortunately for me, most of my vintage favorites (especially Lanvin Arpege and My Sin) were really popular and common in their heyday, so they are not hard to find at a reasonable price.
One of my favorite perfume notes is civet, which has been in disuse for some time – except for a few niche firms – but is a common ingredient in a lot of older fragrances including drugstore brands like Faberge, Coty and older Avon’s.
There are a lot of great department store perfumes – I wore Michael by Michael Kors on my wedding day 10 years ago (which has been trashed by Lucatania and many others) and happily still wear it because it is freakin awesome.
I guess my point is there are a lot of reason’s people do or don’t do vintage. I would hope that it is the pursuit of beauty that drives most of us perfume lovers instead of a need to make others feel that their preferences just aren’t cool or sophisticated enough to join in the conversation.
Thanks for letting me join the conversation you guys!
LOL my gateway drug into tuberose before I ‘knew’ what it was!!! the slippery slippery slope….
Oh yeah, Michael took me down the rabbit hole and now I shamelessly spritz on Mahora, Amoureuse, Boucheron, BBW Tuberose Gardenia – whatever big boned sultry fragrance suits my fancy!
When I first started visiting perfume blogs and forums, all the vintage praise and “perfume is not what it used to be anymore” annoyed me to no end. Vintage frenzy has always been there, or at least in the comments of this and other blogs. Don’t know if it’s amplifying.
I’m not an e-bayer, the only time I bought a “vintage” bottle of vol de nuit, it arrived almost empty (the juice spilled), the propeller logo completely ruined, and what was left of the juice gave me a rash.
But I’ve scored two vintage finds, in an old perfume shop, and they blew my mind. One of them is Mitsouko, a perfume I thought I didn’t care for.
Now, I cope with letting people I love pass away, I am able to deal with illness and real life problems, so I can certainly let a perfume sink in the fog of time. However, if I comment on a perfume blog or a perfume forum, I will continue to sing the praise of my vintage Mitsouko and Shalimar, two perfumes that are meant for me, that make me feel comfortable and happy, and will continue to specify how hideous I find their 2011 version. If I am lucky enough to score another treasure, I will probably share it here, where other people can understand my excitement.
If people love their vintage finds, and wish to share their thoughts, I can relate. If it is snobbery, I don’t now, I just envy their lucky ways through ebay and enjoy their precious finds vicariously.
Zazie, the fact that you’re saying that you were seeing vintage being mentioned in blogs and forums means that you are referring to a later time than I am. NST started in 2005, Bois de Jasmin ditto. I can assure you that in 2002, the word vintage was nowhere to be seen on MUA, and, because of the absence of serious blogs (or any blogs at all), knowledge wasn’t as widespread as it is now. If it had been I wouldn’t have had to explain how the two Serge Lutens lines worked practically every day and I wouldn’t have had to create my Lutens page.
Of course, because I am older, I actually used some of the ‘vintage’ fragrances at a time when they were very much the way they had always been until then (the great Guerlains, Chanels, Diors, Carons, etc.) – long before the intervention of IFRA. I wore them and stopped wearing them and have no great desire to wear them again.
I agree — vintage was hardly mentioned on MUA when I started there, which I think was 2003?
But then, I’m guilty of trying to hang on to my favorites by buying vintage. Does it help that they’re vintage department store fragrances?? (probably not)
Long Lost Perfume Chat, which is now Perfume of Life, was established December 1999. Vintage was the subject and reformulations were already a big point of contention.
Rejecting perfume before it rejects you speaks volumes.
Personally, I despise snobbery of any sort. I’m not sure why one type is any worse than another. Vintage… I tend not to “go there”. I didn’t have money for “real” perfumes during my first 3 decades, so I’m not familiar with any of them. No sense looking for heartbreak. But since so many are “reference scents”, I can absolutely understand people tracking them down as part of their perfume education. Would I do the same, if I had more money? Hard to say.
Has anyone tried the new L’Artisan Mandarine? Given the size and low (for L’A anyway) price, is it more of a “splash”? It sounds really nice given the notes listed, and made me pull out my sample of Fleur de Liane and Nuit de Tuberuse to enjoy today.
It was one of their summer scents, so yes, lighter than the average, and not all that long-lived.
Hey folks!
Any suggestions for a perfume with a big mint note, which doesn’t smell like toothpaste?
I’d also be grateful if anyone can recommend any bath oils with a strong mint note. I used to love Estee Lauder’s ‘Mint Pick Up’ bath but its long been discontinued (it may have been part of the Azuree line).
Thanks !
K
Heeley Menthe Fraiche is more like a mint jullip than toothpaste to me…
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Mentafollia has a big mint note and though it has been discontinued you can find it around the web pretty easily.
My favorite mint fragrance is Malle’s Geranium pour monsieur – Malle usually coordinates body products, the might have an oil, or at least a soap!
Guerlain Herba Fresca has a mint note too, when it came out there used to be wonderful body products available, I had the shower gel!, but it has long been discontinued (the body products, not the perfume).
I thought of Herba Fresca too, really herbal mint and no toothpaste there.
A*Men is minty too, but more peppermint :/
And masculine.
I third the Herba Fresca!
Herba Fresca’s really nice.
I’ll start hunting these down – thanks all !
k
Erin did a post on mint fragrances recently here on NST – there are lots of good recs in that article and in the comments as well. I love Herba Fresca and Mentafolia, and Jo Malone White Jasmine & Mint is nice also.
Is Amouage Gold women the same as Amouage Gold Cristal women? I don’t know why I’m asking, either way it’s too expensive! :0
I thought it was, but I’m not positive. Didn’t they stop using the name Cristal though?
Hm… I went through my little sample & wanted to purchase a decant from The Perfumed Court, but they have “Amouage Gold Cristal.” On the Amouage website, there’s no Cristal in the name. Maybe TPC is using the old name, then? TPC adds apricot, lime & peach to the description of the heart notes. To my nose, it’s such a complex scent, I have trouble picking out anything more specific than WOW, THAT’S BEAUTIFUL.
My birthday is coming up. Thanks for the information, Robin!!!
I have a feeling that whatever it was (a special bottle or a variation) they don’t make it anymore. To be sure, you could email Amouage?
Happy upcoming birthday, in any case!
thank you!!
My baby boy and I are BOTH sick (him for the first time ever) so no perfume wearing here. But talk about scent memories… one whiff of that chemical cherry smell as I opened the bottle of croup medication and I was instantly transported back to being sick as a child.
On matters more ‘perfumey’ I’m currently on a hunt for some beautifully scented (preferably organic/natural) body lotions to wear on days when I don’t feel like wearing perfume but I still want to smell nice…
I hope you’re both feeling much better soon.
Natural, but not organic: Pacifica. I have several of their body butters which I find moisturize well without being greasy. And the scents are wonderful (and layer well).
Jessica has reviewed a number of organic lotions – if you click on “body products” in the “browse by” box at the top of the page you’ll find them. I’ve been verrrrry tempted by the Velvet and Sweet Pea products she reviewed recently.
Oooooohhhhh the Velvet and Sweet Pea things do sound delicious don’t they!!! And I will have a look at Pacifica – I’ve read good things about their solid perfumes here and didn’t realize they did body butters. Thanks for the get better wishes too!
Lizziemarian, I read Robin talking about Un Jardin Sur Le Nil body cream. The fragrance is very organic, light and uplifting. The L’Occitane’s body creams and colognes follow the same way. Best wishes to you and your baby!
Wearing Prada EdP today, which I found for a steal at a supersize grocery store. It has the kind of patchouli I live for – the peppery, earthy, yet non-musty kind – and loads of it, along with a soft vanilla/rose/labdanum heart and a musky finish. The far drydown reminds me of the kind of perfumes my grandmother wore, in the best possible way – not powdery and “old lady”-ish, just warm, musky, and patchouli-laden (patchoulified?). It’s also blessedly, shockingly un-sweet, and easily wearable by either gender (I find it more masculine than the men’s Prada.) Nothing like stumbling on a “hidden” gem that’s actually been staring you in the face for years, is there? I can’t recommend this stuff heartily enough, and that’s something I never thought I’d say about any Prada offering.
In other news, is anyone else here wearing Mugler Cologne like it’s going out of style? I’ve been spritzing it wildly several times per day for the past month, and each time it satisfies. On those days when the humidity hits like a freight train, nothing else will do.
I have not been wearing the Mugler at all, and can’t wait for it to get good & hot here….then I will!
Sorry to be a latecomer to this poll, but my head cold finally abated to the point where I can smell perfume again. To celebrate, I busted out my newly acquired vintage Vent Vert. Love, love, love it.
Glad you’re better!