I love the smell of mimosa flowers (Acacia pravissima is blooming in my garden now). For me, the “perfume” that best captures the floral scent most of us associate with “mimosa” (Acacia dealbata) is Diptyque Mimosa room spray. I’ve loved many of the Annick Goutal floral fragrances, and I hoped Le Mimosa would provide a mimosa scent I could wear on my skin, not simply spray into the air.
Le Mimosa, developed by perfumer Isabelle Doyen, lists fragrance notes of peach, anise, iris, mimosa, sandalwood and white musk. Le Mimosa opens with a dry, flat note that smells like a combination of pencil shavings, cumin powder, and ‘hairy’ leather. This slightly “dirty” aroma marches thru the entire composition…only soap will remove it from skin. As Le Mimosa develops, I smell artificial “peach” and I detect, for a split second, a puff of iris, a speck of anise, and some vague “citrus.”
There’s plenty of white musk and the aforementioned “peach” in Le Mimosa’s base, but none of Le Mimosa’s notes produces a scent with the aroma of fresh mimosa blossoms (if that’s what you are looking for or expecting). What mimosa there is in Le Mimosa is faint — hard to detect under the stronger, cheaper-smelling notes that surround it.
As I wore Le Mimosa I was suffocated by its dry, bitter “powder;” it was as if my nostrils had been packed with pollen. Overall, Le Mimosa smells inexpensive, and its mish-mash of jarring elements produces faux ‘flowers’ having little to do with the perfume's namesake.
Years ago, I concocted, and wore, a perfume resembling (a better) Le Mimosa: I would spray one part Eau d’Hermès to three parts Diptyque Mimosa room spray: that combo was refreshing, a tad “abstract” (no attempt at duplicating a perfect bouquet of mimosa thanks to Eau d’Hermès’ leather and cumin) and more refined than you’d expect from a perfume-room spray mix. (This layered scent was not a total success; as often happens, the room spray element quickly turned flat on skin.)
Annick Goutal Le Mimosa is a limited edition fragrance, and as you’ve probably guessed, I won’t be sad to see it vanish. I hope its disappearance makes room for a more interesting Annick Goutal perfume. Le Mimosa is available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette ($80-115); it lasts forever on skin and has sillage galore. Please comment if you have a favorite mimosa-scented perfume (or two) you can recommend.
Note: top images of mimosa [altered] via Wikimedia Commons.